I have a brick (only) from a lionel transformer from the 90s I want to use to power my fastrack command switches. I know it's more voltage than I need but I need AC for my switches. When I went to connect a meter to the terminal end (with a plug for two wires) my meter has 0.09 volts. It should produce 18 volts. Any ideas?
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Not enough info. Is it plugged into 120vac? And it puts out 0.9 vac while you read 120 vac at the input? Then it’s a dead brick. Fuse inside the brick?
Put it under a slight load and then measure again. An incandescent bulb should do the trick.
Yep, it likely needs a small load to want to produce power. The meter has no load behind it.
I have one of those too, give me a while to verify 0v without a load in my meter.
(any idea what to call these transformer/control set ups. I've asked before but the info didn't stick)
Hobby brick#180300 77w and 18v 3a. output. You didn't insert the photos into text and not all OSs can use the thumbnails, so I'm guessing until large pictures show up for me to see.
It did NOT need a load. It had 19.5 no load voltage on mine.
Id look for a fuse inside before tossing it to the side. The breaker system is fast electronic, so not a swapable part. (but it could possibly be repaired still. it will just take some deeper effort)
I opened the unit up. What exactly am I looking for? 
The fuse is the circular glass item soldered to the circuit board in your second picture.
Sometimes you can just look closely at the filament inside the fuse and see if it is intact or broken. If not, unplug the power pack, set your multi-meter to the lowest ohms range and check the resistance across the fuse leads. A low reading indicates a good fuse and an infinite reading indicates a blown fuse.
Larry
I got nothing on any of the ohms settings on my meter.
It should read essentially zero ohms. Too bad it isn't readily replaceable. You may want to look into fuse holder you could install in it's its place.
@bmoran4 posted:It should read essentially zero ohms. Too bad it isn't readily replaceable. You may want to look into fuse holder you could install in it's its place.
Any ideas where I could get a replacement fuse?
DigiKey, Mouser, Radio Shack (on line). It needs to be rated at 120 vac or higher. The ones for cars back in the day are too low a voltage (important when the blow).
@cjack posted:DigiKey, Mouser, Radio Shack (on line). It needs to be rated at 120 vac or higher. The ones for cars back in the day are too low a voltage (important when the blow).
What would I search for on any one of those sites? I have an order started with digikey so I'll probably just add to it.
"Fuse" and then apply the filters. Where in the circuit is it? The input or output? Remove it from the clips, they pull off, and read the metal end of the fuse where it states the current rating, etc. I could almost read it if it were in focus on the left side in the picture.
@cjack posted:"Fuse" and then apply the filters. Where in the circuit is it? The input or output? Remove it from the clips, they pull off, and read the metal end of the fuse where it states the current rating, etc. I could almost read it if it were in focus on the left side in the picture.
Not sure where in the circuit it is. I'll get a clearer picture.
I would like to say it's a slo blo type...looks like one. It'lll have a type number like AGC, etc. Try to find that in the Filters on DigiKey.
On the left side, I see 250 vac and there is an A just before that. If you pull the cap off the left side, you should be able to see the number of Amps. It's what you need to know...doesn't matter if you know where in the circuit it is if you know the Amps rating. I think it may be on the input by the size of the fuse wire, and probably a slo blo fuse. But look for more info on the fuse ends because I may be wrong. Those caps just pull off. Maybe even with leaving them soldered into the board. At the most, just unsolder one of them. You'll have to remove the fuse from them to put a new one in anyway.
Read the amps off the metal ends, it is stamped there.
If the wire is around "fiberglass" or has ceramic it is slo blow. Slo-blo is usually stamped as well.
Some fuses simply have legs vs caps with legs.
Another style fuse holder will work, but these never ever melt 
Because it blew, you need to approach everything with suspicion of an immediate failure indicating another deeper issue. Make sure it is also on a power strip for some tests. (manual camera, esp. on phones is usually best for micro shot focus. Look for the flower icon to use for small items too)
But fuses do fail for no apparent reason sometimes.
Run a hard load to trip the breaker (try a jackrabbit start with a dual motor or two. My breaker will duck out on most heavy loaded PW if I throttle up too fast.
Looks like a 5 amp fuse.
Looks like it. 5 A. Also the SB meaning Slo Blo. I think I see the obvious burn break now.
Here's one...
@cjack posted:Looks like it. 5 A. Also the SB meaning Slo Blo. I think I see the obvious burn break now.
Here's one...
Cool. I order a few, probably 5 for some extras. Do they come with leads on the ends?
No, but you can probably find them too on DigiKey. You can also pull the caps off and solder a new wire to the cap it if you cut the one that was on there...or just solder the ends together. Just don't stay on the fuse end with a soldering iron too long. Use a fairly hot iron and solder fast.
@cjack posted:No, but you can probably find them too on DigiKey. You can also pull the caps off and solder a new wire to the cap it if you cut the one that was on there...or just solder the ends together. Just don't stay on the fuse end with a soldering iron too long. Use a fairly hot iron and solder fast.
Alright cool. I'll have to go hunting on DigiKey unless someone has a quick link before I find it.
You could replace the caps with a holder with wires like this...
https://www.digikey.com/produc...301/BF301-ND/2330518
Easier to replace the fuse during the probable diagnosing why it blew.
As to why it went, it does look like an overload by the melted wire inside the fuse...not some mechanical flaw in the fuse ends inside or some such. I suppose if it were at the max rating for awhile...it might have blown.
Forget replacing the fuse. Replace it with a 4 amp self-resetting breaker and be done... otherwise you will be chasing those cover screws off & on every time it blows. 
@ADCX Rob posted:Forget replacing the fuse. Replace it with a 4 amp self-resetting breaker and be done... otherwise you will be chasing those cover screws off & on every time it blows.
Where could I find one? I have an order ready for digikey if they have them?
My uncle used to put pennies under fuses after he got a new milking machine. You can still see the outline of where there barn was before it burned down.
@Trainlover9943 posted:Where could I find one? I have an order ready for digikey if they have them?
This is the one I had on hand & used. 4 Amps. You can mount it with the reset button accessible, or conceal it and make it auto-resetting(like a Lionel internal circuit breaker).
@Trainlover9943 posted:Where could I find one? I have an order ready for digikey if they have them?
Digikey should have something, sure. Any 4a/4.5a should be ok. Magnetic will be faster than thermal.
Doesn't have to be self resetting if you can find room to drill a hole ant mount it.
The self resetting thing isn't really an issue since I'll be using this transformer for switch power, it should never trip.
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
