Hey all,
I have a 1950's Marx Bubbling Water Tower that has steadily been melting at the base...
I am using a #434 bulb and it takes at least 16 volts to get it to bubble. Any thoughts?
At this point I'm thinking give up on the bubbles.
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Been there, done that.
Wednesday.
Ciao.
KD
Memory was a bit fuzzy on the bulb #. Whatever is in it is the same as when I made that post. It's possible that transformer is putting out too much power may need to find a different power source. The tag that was on the bottom of the tower to tell me the bulb type is now black from heat as it was a Dynamo label. Thanks for the input and the reminder, lol.
May be looking for a junk tower to try and swap out the base when I go to York this fall . The base now is letting way to much light pass through and not funneling it into the tube.
Not familiar with these or how they are put together, but aluminum foil is a good heat shield/reflector. Perhaps you could employ some (out of sight) to push some of that heat away from the plastic.
D500 posted:Not familiar with these or how they are put together, but aluminum foil is a good heat shield/reflector. Perhaps you could employ some (out of sight) to push some of that heat away from the plastic.
....which is one of the show-and-tell items I'll share on Wednesday.....Stainless Steel tape. Many years ago I found this stuff (yet available, albeit different brand-name) in an effort to salvage (short-term) a dishwasher that had sprung a (pin-hole) leak. It worked dandy in that application. Since then I've used it in a couple of Lionel accessories to reflect light, deflect/reflect/absorb heat. Example: The Control Tower that has the mindless guy rambling round-and-round in circles in a lighted elevated room?....I had a 'junker' that had had the wrong bulb installed at some point, distorting the plastic roof. So, I cut a patch of the stainless steel tape, attached it to the underside of the roof over the bulb. Result?....Brighter control room with smaller bulb, and no further distortion.
Stainless Steel Tape is available at most home improvement stores, better hardware stores. Highly recommended....very useful in our hobby!.....IMHO, of course.
One of the frustrating characteristics of the bubble tubes in several accessories is the small wax pellet inside the bottom of the tube which is essential to the creation of bubbles. However, for some unexplained reason, time is not friendly to the repetitive ease and lower voltage at which this sucker will create bubbles....i.e., the longer the accessory sits in storage, or so it seems, the harder it is to get it's bubble-mojo back!
So, one of the things I've found works well in transferring heat from the bulb to the tube is Silicone Heat Sink Compound. It's most frequently used/intended to facilitate heat transfer from electronic components (e.g., transistors) to a metal heat sink (e.g., finned aluminum). A dab of this compound applied to the bottom of the tube, and putting the tube in direct contact with the bulb, will help to keep the bubbling voltage low and repetitive.....often. Maybe not 100% guaranteed, but a simple thing to try. Silicone Heat Transfer Grease is available through a variety of sources.
Stainless steel tape, right-sized bulb, not exceeding rated voltage, heat transfer grease.....all possibilities.
Otherwise....
Wednesdaaaayyyy.
KD
Taking the tube out and shaking it well may I move it's performance.
The best idea is the dab of that white heat sink compound for electronics as stated. It should work well to coax more heat transfer between the glass allowing not just less voltage, but a more even heat distribution over the entire area of both bulbs.
The light needs to light the bubble tube to so build a ring on each to leave a bald spot and try not to squish the compound till it covers the bald spot.
My only concern would be it works too well and causes the lamp to break by heat shock over time. The Bubble tube should be fine though.
The heat shield idea is good too and could be even more effective with two layers and an air gap between them, i.e. a tube within a tube. Toothpicks to hold the gap, or an insulating foam or fish paper/isolation board for electronics, etc.. the more air involved the better.
I was a bit shy of cash at the PO the other day after being in a rush and I had a personal priority cost more than expeceted, so couldn't even get all my mail out that day. I'll look around and see if I have anything of this nature to add.
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