Since opinions/reviews were requested by Menards, mine follows: Picked up my O36 switches today. 50% success rate. The right hand switch performed flawlessly after repeated usage, both non-derail and remote. 👍 However, the left hand switch was a problem from the start. When remotely throwing the switch, it sounded like it was getting caught on something in the internal mechanism (I did not open it). A second attempt, pushing the button again, at throwing in the same direction and the cycle would complete properly. My first guess is that it needed to break-in a little. Repeated attempts only worsened the situation. Likewise, the non-derail eventually failed, again because of some internal problem with the mechanism. When disconnecting the remote from the switch, the black wire on the remote came out of the connector. I don’t know if the wire broke or if it wasn’t inserted properly into the corresponding metal female receptacle. There was about 1/16 of an inch bare wire exposed. When I first attempted to disconnect, I was very careful as this design looks very fragile. So, this switch will be returned and I’ll order another left turn switch. I echo many who have suggested it, the switches needs to have an external power option. I suspect that these are supposed to run at a full 16 volts based on the design of Menards current track system. Since the Menards locomotives are remotely operated, a full 16 volts is constantly supplied to the track. I mostly run conventional, so voltage rarely hits 16 volts. Another suggestion: maybe mounting holes should be pre-drilled, or premolded, into the remote base to allow affixing to a control panel. A customer could drill the holes themselves but could risk damaging the remote. Double sided tape could be used, supplied by the customer, affixed to the remotes base but the tape’s adhesiveness could eventually weaken.
Steve
