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I agree; it doesn't give you a specific part number and/or where to order it for the MTH version.  I don't have the MTH derrick, but there are 2 take-aways from that thread:

1. If you can find bulbs from you local auto store that "fit" the base, then that's a good start.  As the thread suggests you may have to do some research to find a bulb with the MOST POWER (Watts).  It's the heat from the bulb that gets the tube bubbling.  If your accessory power is variable you might try raising the voltage; this will lower the life-expectancy of the bulb but it will produce more heat.

2. In the short term, you may get some benefit from vigorously shaking the tube.  The magic crystals dissolved/suspended in the liquid have been known to "clump" together reducing the bubbling action.

Right.  That's why shaking the tube is a short-term workaround.  As to whether there's some formula as to what % of the crystals settle out per hour of inactivity at room temperature might be an interesting high-school-science-project.

But in your situation, since it was the bulb that failed I'm thinking your tube is OK.  Yes, the bulb illuminates the tube to aid in the illusion...but the real purpose of the bulb is to heat the tube.  So, again, if looking at a store display of bulbs (that fit the base) choose one that consumes the most Watts.  Then, if no joy finding a bulb, I suggest cranking up the voltage to a bulb that fits.  In round numbers the power (Watts) goes up with the square of the voltage.  This works in your favor; so a 10% increase in voltage results in a 20% increase in Watts.  A 20% increase in voltage increases power almost 50%. Yes, this reduces bulb life but ignoring the hassle factor of changing bulbs it may be this is a workable alternative since you can get them at your auto store.

As an aside, there was an OGR thread from years ago with the idea of initially applying extra voltage to the bulb for a limited time (e.g., 1 minute or whatever).  That is, it appears that once you get the tube bubbling, it takes fewer Watts to keep the bubbling going.

@GeoPeg posted:

I haven't ever seen the MTH version, but I can tell you a couple of Marx bubblers I had suffered from the plastic lamp cover melting where someone else had this problem and apparently cranked up the voltage to get things going - be cautious if you try that.

This is what's great about OGR!  You can have what amounts to a real-time conversation about the hobby to solve seemingly arcane problems.  Remember how it was before OGR where you would send a stamped letter to the editor of some train magazine with an issue like this... hoping that it gets published in the User Tips column or whatever!

I guess $10 for shipping is what it is.  At $3 per bulb, and OGR being a discussion forum, I wonder if some kind of 1-minute timer for a few bucks that applies a cranked up voltage to get things going is not so unreasonable after all!  I think of how we'd fuss with the manual choke to "over-stimulate" our autos to get them started before some clever engineer came up with electronic fuel injection!

Last edited by stan2004

Also am realizing that the 53 bulb i got from autozone is perfect for the rotary beacon...thats the bulb the wouldn't work in the oil derrick tried it in the Beacon and no issues with it not spinning...must get hot enough to spin in but not too hot to make it stick to the rubber gasket it sits on. The bulb from the Beacon, the original MTH bulb works great in the oil Derrick.

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