Skip to main content

68 replies

My N&W Layout to This Point

CN christopher N&WOGR Forum Member

Howdy 0 Scalers,

I had a bunch of photos left over from last year that were not used. I fugure I might as well post them so people can see more of the layout. The photos generally follow the layout in sequence as the trains run from area to area. There are still large sections of the layout that still need to be scenicked. I haven't put in a facia yet so I've cropped out the areas that showed  below the layout and also the ceiling. Normally I don't like to post too many photos but it seemed right to just blow all of these out and get them out of the way and start fresh later with new projects that are in progress now.

Thanks for looking.

If anyone responds to this post, please don't repeat all of the photos in your response.

01 Y6b 2196 IMG_8438 A OK LR02 M 475 IMG_7987 A OK LR03 J 612 IMG_7052 A OK LR04 Class A IMG_8981 AA OK LR04 Y6a 2165 IMG_9069 AA OK LR05 M 475 IMG_8044 A OK LR06 M 475 IMG_8055 A OK LR07 Y6a 2165 IMG_9127 AAA OK LR09 J 612 IMG_7112 A OK LR10 Y6b 2196 IMG_8772 A OK LR11 Y6b 2196 IMG_8810 AA OK LR13 Z1b 1363 IMG_6953 A OK LR14 Y6a 2156 IMG_7739 AA OK LR15 M 475 IMG_8162 A OK LR16 Z1b 1363 IMG_6984 A OK LR17 Y6b 2196 IMG_8882 A OK LR

Attachments

Hide
Images (16)
  • 01 Y6b 2196 IMG_8438 A OK LR
  • 02 M 475 IMG_7987 A OK LR
  • 03 J 612 IMG_7052 A OK LR
  • 04 Class A IMG_8981 AA OK LR
  • 04 Y6a 2165 IMG_9069 AA OK LR
  • 05 M 475 IMG_8044 A OK LR
  • 06 M 475 IMG_8055 A OK LR
  • 07 Y6a 2165 IMG_9127 AAA OK LR
  • 09 J 612 IMG_7112 A OK LR
  • 10 Y6b 2196 IMG_8772 A OK LR
  • 11 Y6b 2196 IMG_8810 AA OK LR
  • 13 Z1b 1363 IMG_6953 A OK LR
  • 14 Y6a 2156 IMG_7739 AA OK LR
  • 15 M 475 IMG_8162 A OK LR
  • 16 Z1b 1363 IMG_6984 A OK LR
  • 17 Y6b 2196 IMG_8882 A OK LR
Last edited by christopher N&W
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

F flangerOGR Forum Member

Always a treat to see more photos of your outstanding railroad Chris. So many subtleties such as the low telephone poles  mounted slightly leaning on the downward slope, the rocky shore of the creek, guard rails on the girder bridge, and that "just right" creek water...nothings been forgotten, so special.

Thanks Chris

Bob 

CN christopher N&WOGR Forum Member

Guys, Thanks for all of the comments.

Jim, I'll get a track plan posted in time but I have to run out for a while now.

Alan, I really appreciate what you are saying, but I have to say the layout is fool's gold right now. It'll need more time before it is ready to really show. I'm working pretty hard to get there, but there are too many incomplete patches right now.

Stephen, you know the JH came on the scene a year later than my railroad represents.

rex desiletsrex desiletsOGR Forum Member
Penn Division posted:

Chris, 

Matt Forsyth here. I have your trackplan handout from the 2009 tour, and took note that you list you min. rad. on the inner mainline curves @ 56", and others @ 60" and 64". What is the absolute minimum that your Y-Class can successfully negotiate?  What kind of mods to those articulateds (if any) did you have to make? 

Thanks! 

MF

D&H Penn Division Website

The late, great John Armstrong used 58" minimum radius upon which he ran a 10-drivered loco (ex-PRR J1). A "bendy" engine such as a Y-class should handle a 56" radius curve. It does depend on design of the model chassis: whether all drivers are flanged, amount of side play allowed for the drivers and main rods, and interference of things like tail beams with swiveling of trailing trucks. Loco models made to be run, vice displayed only, have these things taken into account. Still, if one wants to run a 4-12-2 a larger curve, such as bob2's infamous 6-ft radius ones, may be necessary.
I remember, from my mis-spent days in HO, an imported model of a USRA 2-8-8-2 that would run only on straight track without major surgery.

Last edited by rex desilets
CN christopher N&WOGR Forum Member

Thanks guys.

Matt, The Sunset Y6 engines will negotiate down to about 40" out of the box. At that point the handrails on the back of the engine, which stick way out, will contact the tender. I believe it would get down to even tighter radius if the drawbar is lengthened.

The Sunset Y3 engines will go down to 40" on my layout and really down to 36" but I'd only run trains very slowly on that radius.

The Kohs Y6 engines needed a few minor tweaks to get them down to 56". The front pilot wheels would touch the cylinder cocks on the front of the steam chest at 56". I moved the pivot hole for the screw on the truck frame to allow the trucks to move forward slightly which allowed the wheels to get around the cylinder cocks. Also, there is a buffer on the front of the tender which has a spring in it. It buffers against the back of the engine which was causing it to bind on the tight curves. I pinned the buffer back so it does not contact the engine. There is a pipe that attaches from the smoke box to pipes on either side of the steam chests. One pipe slides inside of another like a sleeve to allow the front of the engine to swing out. I made the inside pipe shorter and narrower so it would have more play as it swings around. The inside pipe is not visible with the outside pipe covering it. I also removed all of the rubber sand line attachments pretty much immediately as they didn't seem like they'd be good for operation by any means and they just looked kinda goofy anyway.

Penn DivisionPenn DivisionOGR Forum Member
christopher N&W posted:

Thanks guys.

Matt, The Sunset Y6 engines will negotiate down to about 40" out of the box. At that point the handrails on the back of the engine, which stick way out, will contact the tender. I believe it would get down to even tighter radius if the drawbar is lengthened.

The Sunset Y3 engines will go down to 40" on my layout and really down to 36" but I'd only run trains very slowly on that radius.

The Kohs Y6 engines needed a few minor tweaks to get them down to 56". The front pilot wheels would touch the cylinder cocks on the front of the steam chest at 56". I moved the pivot hole for the screw on the truck frame to allow the trucks to move forward slightly which allowed the wheels to get around the cylinder cocks. Also, there is a buffer on the front of the tender which has a spring in it. It buffers against the back of the engine which was causing it to bind on the tight curves. I pinned the buffer back so it does not contact the engine. There is a pipe that attaches from the smoke box to pipes on either side of the steam chests. One pipe slides inside of another like a sleeve to allow the front of the engine to swing out. I made the inside pipe shorter and narrower so it would have more play as it swings around. The inside pipe is not visible with the outside pipe covering it. I also removed all of the rubber sand line attachments pretty much immediately as they didn't seem like they'd be good for operation by any means and they just looked kinda goofy anyway.

Chris, 

EXACTLY what I was looking for...Many thanks!

Although I appreciate Rex (thank you) taking the time to respond, I was really interested in "actual"  rather than "theoretical", insights from a practitioner's perspective (you, Chris) that has walked the walk, made the mods, and been successful.

I have a small fleet of Sunset D&H Challengers that I need to "throw around" a reverse loop in hidden staging, and was wondering what the tightest radius is that I can practically apply to that curve, without too much self-induced heartburn.

MF

The D&H Penn Division 

  

Keystoned EdKeystoned EdOGR Forum Member

Matt.  If  you are building a run around track for turning D&H Challengers serving as helpers be sure to check what minimum track separation you'll need to clear the boiler overhang.  When we tried to operate visiting motive power around the 54" r hidden staging loops on my former railroad we found 4" separation worked fine with PRR duplexes, but not with B&O EM1's. 

 

 

 

 

 

Last edited by Keystoned Ed
Penn DivisionPenn DivisionOGR Forum Member
Keystoned Ed posted:

Matt.  If  you are building a run around track for turning D&H Challengers serving as helpers be sure to check what minimum track separation you'll need to clear the boiler overhang.  When we tried to operate visiting motive power around the 54" r hidden staging loops on my former railroad we found 4" separation worked fine with PRR duplexes, but not with B&O EM1's. 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Ed...

ALWAYS appreciate your insightful commentary! 

MF

F.R.S. Gibson Shops

RooRooOGR Forum Member

Hi Chris.

I have been in Model Railroads most of my life I have never visited a Model Railroad in America even though I have been there, most of the Model Railroads or Railways that I have seen have been in England, I have seen some of the best, I mean some of the most exquisite detailing you could find, but looking at your scenery, the foliage, the rocks the way the Bridge blends in in fact the way everything blends in is exceptional I've never met you mate, but sure would like to and shake your hand and say, "Well done mate".

Roo. AKA. Neville Rossiter. West Australia.

Penn DivisionPenn DivisionOGR Forum Member
Roo posted:

Matt, Likewise it's been a while.

Regards mate, Neville.

Neville,

Indeed it has! I believe we have not communicated since 2010. My old Mentor and Modeling Compadre', the late Bob Sypher...

Bob Sypher, BMRRC

...was a HUGE FAN of yours...he so looked forward to your regular magazine articles, and always used to say, "That Aussie really does things right!"

MF

Last edited by Penn Division
CN christopher N&WOGR Forum Member

Guys, thanks for the additional comments.

Neville, I've been inspired by your articles and layouts for years. I'm happy we can connect online. Message received.

Greg, I was painting the drivers for a while by hand but then looked at how many I'd have to paint on the layout and so I made up a jig of sorts to paint the drivers with rattle can black paint. The jig goes near the drivers along a test track with a 10" long, 1/8" high opening. The rest of the engine side is blocked by the jig. I can spray through the narrow opening while the drivers can run with the engine up on a small block. The narrow opening makes it so the paint does not get on the rods. While the paint is still dewey, I use a small screwdiver face that I bent at the tip a little to contact the driver treads to get excess paint off from there while the drivers are still running. The problem for 3 rail might be the traction tires. I'm sure others ways work well but I was really pleased with how easily this works after the jig was made up and without having to wipe down the rods.

Last edited by christopher N&W

Add Reply

Views: 3,989
Post

Membership Required

We're sorry. You must be signed in to continue. Sign In or Register
×
Are you sure you want to remove from your Block List?
×
Loading...
×
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×

Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership

OGR Forum Supporting Membership

Help support this forum with an OGR Forum Supporting Membership.
You will be able to watch the videos in the INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO FORUM!
A one-year OGR Forum Supporting Membership is only $12 per year, so sign up now!


    OR     


Access the ALL the OGR VIDEO FORUMS AND  over 300 back issues of OGR
with a DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTION!



$12.00 per 12 Months (plus tax if applicable)
×