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@harmonyards posted:

Hmmm, ….very interesting,….as if you read my mind!…..I’ve been painting for over 35 years, and to this date, I never knew a picture could exaggerate orange peel,…..to death,……orange peel is orange peel, it’s either there, or it ain’t!….I’m very glad you’re happy with your new purchase, cause I’d be livid,……I am well aware of what a newly delivered, or restored locomotive is supposed to look like,…I’m just kinda surprised a multi million dollar manufacturer accepted that kind of finish on such a highly touted, & highly priced model,…..if you’re gonna lay down a gloss finish on a model, it’d better be slick as glass,…..gloss in scale is tough to do!…the slightest orange peel, and the message ain’t conveyed……they got to be slick like an eel,…..this is how it should be done…..the first represents as-delivered Mohawk in triple black lacquer, and the second is excursion J 611 done in gloss urethane to match high gloss Dupont Imron used on the J’s subsequent repaints in modern day …….again, I’m glad you’re glad, and thank you for posting the pictures, ……not knocking your model, it just doesn’t sit well with me, …..I’d be doing a re-shoot,….

Pat

Yes I definitely see where you're coming from with those thoughts.  I also didn't pay attention to who I was replying to so my explanation probably came across as a bit more "educating" than I would have if I had been paying attention.  You've definitely posted some beautiful modeling projects over the years!

Most comments I've seen about the gloss have been along the lines of "why would anybody paint a model in gloss finish, real trains aren't shiny" so that was my thought process in answering.

@harmonyards posted:

.... and to this date, I never knew a picture could exaggerate orange peel,…..to death,……

Hah! You should know by now that if you want to see any defect in your workmanship, just post a photo of it online and it will stick out like a sore thumb! BTDT!

A few details that I find missing on this high end model that I would think should have been included is :
1.) The whistle cord. Actually it is not a cord at all but a metal rod that ran from the cab through the sandbox to the whistle.
2.) Curtains. Other Lionel offerings have them, why not this?
3.) The "Water Gauge" on the fireman's side of the tender.

Last edited by Big Jim

Jim, when I was there in March the 1218 was on the track against the platform:DDB27CAC-6E87-495A-984B-5EF2DB9C1954

I brought my 1238 home yesterday:

This is my first Lionel with the Force Coupler. It seems a bit hyperactive especially in reverse. I haven’t looked at it very closely yet but I keep getting the ‘crunch-bang’ sound.

The Kadee setup is pretty nice and easy though!

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@SantaFe158 posted:

Yes I definitely see where you're coming from with those thoughts.  I also didn't pay attention to who I was replying to so my explanation probably came across as a bit more "educating" than I would have if I had been paying attention.  You've definitely posted some beautiful modeling projects over the years!

Most comments I've seen about the gloss have been along the lines of "why would anybody paint a model in gloss finish, real trains aren't shiny" so that was my thought process in answering.

Oh I agree with you 100%, it’s about time the mfr.’s did some gloss models, ……if they did it a little wetter, and had their concoction a little thinner, they’d a nailed it,……but as I mentioned, if you guys are happy, then that’s all that matters,….what irks me is if I can get a slick finish in my one car paint booth, with just me & a gun, then to be sure a world class manufacturer should be able to blow my doors off, …..I mean, if they need a consulting service on how to get it right, I am available. I can’t speak of the things Big Jim says are wrong, the N&W really ain’t my cup of tea, only specific models that I’ve been contracted to build, but then I study up on them and get well versed,…..in the case of the J, it just so happens that locomotive frequents the NC Transportation museum, so I literally can go hang out with it for a while……I’m not knocking you, or your model Jake, they just could’ve done a better job,…..

Pat

I brought my 1238 home yesterday:



This is my first Lionel with the Force Coupler. It seems a bit hyperactive especially in reverse. I haven’t looked at it very closely yet but I keep getting the ‘crunch-bang’

I have the 1210 and notice the same repeating “crunch bang” when in reverse, with or without pushing a line of cars.  While going forward I do not notice any hyperactivity. This is my first force coupler also.

Interesting! I can trigger the crunch sound with the engine at idle and pushing the trailing truck back and forth. I understand it’s some type of sensor, just not sure what kind. I looked them up on the support site. The Niagara breakdown shows it. The trailing truck armature/mount/sensor has about +/-3/32” of travel from center from my quick investigation. I’m wondering if it can be adjusted.

Minor issue aside, I absolutely love the whistle effects with the engine and tender speaker interaction. It’s my first engine with this feature and it’s really neat to play with.

Last edited by Norm Charbonneau

Interesting! I can trigger the crunch sound with the engine at idle and pushing the trailing truck back and forth. I understand it’s some type of sensor, just not sure what kind. I looked them up on the support site. The Niagara breakdown shows it. The trailing truck armature/mount/sensor has about +/-3/32” of travel from center from my quick investigation. I’m wondering if it can be adjusted.

Minor issue aside, I absolutely love the whistle effects with the engine and tender speaker interaction. It’s my first engine with this feature and it’s really neat to play with.

The issue hasn’t bothered me enough to investigate it at the workbench yet. I will eventually.  Besides, I currently have a long line coal cars hooked to it.  Going backwards is asking for trouble right now.

I am very pleased with the model. Every time I run it, I discover a new detail or feature.

I don’t run smoke very often although I have a lot of engines with perfectly good units in them. I’d rather have decent weathering and be able to maintain it without the hassle of cleaning the oil off the flat finish. Another thing that some people seem to forget is that for us married guys, one trick to keeping marital bliss intact is to not upset your wife’s olfactory senses!

The smooth running and awesome sounds emanating from this beast more than makes up for the lack of smoke!

Now I need to find more hoppers and another caboose or two. Can’t believe how scarce proper N&W cabooses are considering how many popular N&W engines have been made.

I agree with the lack of a mass-produced, O scale N&W caboose. Lionel & MTH never had a problem producing fantasy paint schemes on almost anything, they can do the same with a N&W caboose, if they want to guarantee enough sales. Lionel produced the B&O I-12 Wagon top caboose, in various paint schemes.

HOW CAN WE MAKE THIS HAPPEN?

I don’t run smoke very often although I have a lot of engines with perfectly good units in them. I’d rather have decent weathering and be able to maintain it without the hassle of cleaning the oil off the flat finish. Another thing that some people seem to forget is that for us married guys, one trick to keeping marital bliss intact is to not upset your wife’s olfactory senses!

The smooth running and awesome sounds emanating from this beast more than makes up for the lack of smoke!

Now I need to find more hoppers and another caboose or two. Can’t believe how scarce proper N&W cabooses are considering how many popular N&W engines have been made.

I have been asking Scott Mann about offering N&W hoppers in plastic, seeing as how awesome their battleship gondolas came out. Perhaps now is the time to petition? Although I have a lot of brass N&W hoppers, I share your interest in more proper N&W hoppers and cabooses.

Greg P

www.youtube.com/trainbros89

Mostly a repeat of my photos above, but there is some operating footage at the end of this brief video I put together yesterday.  The caboose running at the end of the train is an MTH product from the early 2000s.  It's the closest steam era appropriate N&W caboose I was able to dig up.  I doubt it's a perfect match for any true prototype other than the paint scheme, but it serves the purpose until someone comes up with something better.

A couple comments about the force coupler, I too noted some of the quirks mentioned above in its operation.  At one point I deactivated the feature as outlined in the manual and you can then control the "laboring" effects manually as with a normal Legacy locomotive.  I haven't quite decided which way I like better yet.

Last edited by SantaFe158


Now I need to find more hoppers and another caboose or two. Can’t believe how scarce proper N&W cabooses are considering how many popular N&W engines have been made.

The only time I remember finding near-prototypical N&W CF/CG cabooses for sale was earlier this year when two went up for auction on eBay - one in dark blue with the hamburger logo, the other red. I think both went for close to over $200 each. We need more of these made!

@ironman1 posted:

Everyone may not agree, but personally, I'm satisfied with the Atlas, Lionel & MTH 2 bay fish belly type hoppers. IT'S A CABOOSE WE NEED. That will satisfy 3 Rail & 2 Rail.

The non-peaked end fishbelly hoppers are fine, and I think are "prototypical enough" for certain classes of N&W hopper (I can't remember exactly which), but I would really love to see more of the peaked-end hoppers. Atlas is the only one I know of that has made them in 3 rail (and have found on the used market). More of these would be great, especially in plastic. Atlas' die-cast version is very hefty and feels great just to hold in your hand, but trying to pull a long string of them up a grade may not be possible depending on the grade and number of cars.

I repainted this Weaver 2 rail CG that was in the diesel scheme but I am not real happy with the way it came out. I may work on it some more but it’s real close to getting stripped and redone. I used an old Champ set of decals which were very thick and weren’t trying to stay on for me. Weaver did the CG and CF and they are hard to find. I doubt Lionel would tool one but you never know. Their N5 was pretty nice and unexpected.

D9254841-09C8-4D3C-95BF-D9FD194DDDF4

They were cataloged in 2006, here’s the archived catalog:

https://www.yumpu.com/en/docum...atalog-weaver-models

I have a few of these Atlas hoppers which are good enough for now:

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Last edited by Norm Charbonneau
@0-Gauge CJ posted:

The only time I remember finding near-prototypical N&W CF/CG cabooses for sale was earlier this year when two went up for auction on eBay - one in dark blue with the hamburger logo, the other red. I think both went for close to over $200 each. We need more of these made!

I really doubt a newly tooled cabin car from the big L would be much cheaper.

Weaver brass CF/CGs are worth 200-300 bucks imo. They are very nicely made. Sunset made a nice 2 rail CG too, maybe early 80s? A proper scale N&W steam era caboose tooled to modern standards in ABS would be welcome right about now, tooled to the standards of Lionel’s nice I-12 (fetching north of $100 lately) or the nice PRR N5s.

Here’s the CF at Roanoke:

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Last edited by Norm Charbonneau

A few years back it was, yes. The cupola is diecast for some reason!AAACFA41-F6D8-418D-98FA-68F0B2F4A64F2EC3DE3A-FE8B-491A-B7FF-9FCBFA52AF5A

I think Lionel could make a nice N&W caboose if they really wanted to. They could paint it Sponge Bob later on too I wouldn’t care.

Man those are really nice looking as weathered!

Wasn't this cataloged in 2015? I assumed they were based on the earlier brass version they did years back.

I have the smoking version of the N5b they did and then an N5 that lacks the crash bars. I like them a lot.

Edit: turns out I got my cabin cars mixed up. Lionel did an N8 in brass in the 90s. Williams did the brass N5.

Last edited by rplst8

Hey Norm, I like your Sponge Bob suggestion. I’d even buy a Sponge Bob if that’s all they made…for $89.99. I’d just repaint it.😊 I’d definitely have to re-run my N&W caboose decals for sure though.

BTW, the Sunset CG caboose is ok, I have 2, it lacks the detail of the Weaver, mostly missing separately applied roof walks. It appears to be stamped as part of the roof.

Joe

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Quick shot of my 1218 on the test track with an MTH aux tender and an Atlas O N&W baggage/tool car. The gloss finish on mine came out pretty smooth. Looking forward to getting all of the excursion cars behind it (the earlier release cars with the correct paint color that matches that Atlas O car) Not sure what Lionel has been thinking lately with using what is basically red for their recent N&W offerings.nw1218 - 1

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Last edited by Surefire

Have a question for SantaFe158 regarding his comments on the force coupler or any other members:

SantaFe158: A couple comments about the force coupler, I too noted some of the quirks mentioned above in its operation.  At one point I deactivated the feature as outlined in the manual and you can then control the "laboring" effects manually as with a normal Legacy locomotive.

I am trying to do the same on my recently arrived 1201; I successfully set its engine ID and then ran the engine for a while; now I want to go back and disable the force coupler sounds; tried following the instructions on page 15 of the manual but no success.  The instructions mention pressing Aux on the Cab2 but my Cab2 1.6 only has has Aux1 and Aux 2 buttons.  Maybe I am missing some steps.

@RickM46 posted:

Have a question for SantaFe158 regarding his comments on the force coupler or any other members:

SantaFe158: A couple comments about the force coupler, I too noted some of the quirks mentioned above in its operation.  At one point I deactivated the feature as outlined in the manual and you can then control the "laboring" effects manually as with a normal Legacy locomotive.

I am trying to do the same on my recently arrived 1201; I successfully set its engine ID and then ran the engine for a while; now I want to go back and disable the force coupler sounds; tried following the instructions on page 15 of the manual but no success.  The instructions mention pressing Aux on the Cab2 but my Cab2 1.6 only has has Aux1 and Aux 2 buttons.  Maybe I am missing some steps.

When you push "info" AUX appears in the top LCD.  Push the corresponding button under it, then AUX1, then 8.

DOH, thanks MartyE; saw the Aux on the LCD and have successfully turned off the forced coupler sounds using the manuals instructions.

I use whistle sound #5 and now its seems louder above all the other sounds.  I have been waiting for this whistle sound since I started into Lionel in 2014; as a kid I had a bedroom window facing the railroad tracks (1 mile away) in my Pennsylvania coal town and at night I could easily hear the locos going by with, I think, this whistle.

Last edited by RickM46

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