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i really need the forum's members help on this one.a friend of mine has a Williams BRASS UP BIG BOY-she took it to a shop to see how it operated-this engine came with sound-circuit board with dyna chuff is totally dried out effecting the reversing circult unit to not work-the engine runs very eratic-what is her solution to make this engine run smoother-what are her options.

a dealer suggested placing a ps2 sound board in for over 350.00 and that does not quarantee it will run smooth.help-joe

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i talked to my friend and repair man theory is the williams dyna chuff board also had reversing unit built in the board and the board is totally dried up-would it be possible to place a reverse unit only and sacrifice the cheap sound unit williams had orginally so engine runs.this engine does not have traction tires on-rotted off-would that effecthow the steamer would run-who sells a good reversing board.

If you have another Samhongsa/Williams brass loco - even a MIke or Pacific - that runs

well, plug that tender into the loco and see how it runs. The wiring was typically identical.There should be no electonics in the loco itself. If it runs poorly, it is probably mechanical. (Take off the boiler and turn the flywheel by hand a few revs; smooth?) A $50 reversing will get it running again. Sound - try ERR for that and maybe command.

That engine should have a QSI DCRU reverse unit (bottom board) in it. The top board is the sound board. Try contacting QSI for advice. I do not think they do any repairs on their own stuff, but have out sourced it to a dealer. The boards were actually pretty good in their day. I think they are worth repairing. The new Command Control stuff has pretty much taken over, but there are those who still prefer to run conventional.

 

Chris

LVHR

I have two suggestions, as follows: FIRST, something in the drive train (motor to driving axles) or in the running gear (drivers and rods) is binding. Before removing the boiler, check the running gear to see if any rods are binding. Another possiblity is that a driving wheel may be loose on the axle, or it is not be properly "quartered." Drivers on one side should be 90 degrees ahead of or behind the drivers on the other side. If the rods on the engineer's side are down at the bottom, the rods on the fireman's side should be in the front middle position ("engineer's lead"). Now and then the rods on the fireman's side are leading those on the engineer's side ("fireman's lead"). If so, they would be in the REAR middle position, toward the cab. "Lead" in this case refers to the position of the rods when a locomotive is moving forward. The rods and drivers on one side are 90 degrees ahead of (or behind) the rods on the other side. Check rods and drivers on both sides ofr both engines. See whether there is any binding at the cross heads or where the rods enter the cylinder and steam chest.

 

If the running gear moves smoothly, remove the boiler and cab CAREFULLY. Turn the flywheel by hand, as D500 posted.

 

If everything turns smoothly, my SECOND suggestion is that the old Williams reverse unit isn't fully compatible with the Big Boy and/or with the transformer. It may be that the Big Boy is drawing too much current. I'll recommend two Websites. Some QSIndustries DCRU (DC Reverse Units) and sound systems are available at www.the-scaled-tin-rail.com. Go there and look around. Send an email and ask for help identifying the problem. A Dallee reverse unit and sound system may work, too. That Website is www.dallee.com

 

The Train Doctor (Luke in Port Clinton, PA) knows a thing or two about all this. I hope he will see this topic and reply. 

 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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