When I first started up my little layout, I ran it with an Atlas transformer that came with a set. Everything worked fine. Then I bought a rebuilt ZW on Ebay, and at first it worked just fine too. Then, all of a sudden, I couldn’t get any power out of the ZW. Out of curiosity, I went back to the Atlas, with the same negative result. I have tried different wires, different connections, different HD extension cords, and different electrical outlets. Nothing seems to help. Finally, I found my old volt meter and tested the output of both transformers. The Atlas maxed-out at 6 volts and the ZW maxed-out at 6.5 volts. However neither will operate a loco or even light up the switches on that loop. Does anyone have any theories as to what I might have screwed up? Thanks!
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Did you test each transformer output disconnected from your layout?
I think I found my major problem...My test loco is evidently screwed up. Switched locos and everything worked again.
Prolly has a short sucking the power right out of the x-formers.
Glad you found problem!
Paul, yes I put a voltmeter on both of them. It was a bit disappointing...6 volts from the Atlas and 6.5 from the ZW, but they are both working.
@Papa Dave posted:Paul, yes I put a voltmeter on both of them. It was a bit disappointing...6 volts from the Atlas and 6.5 from the ZW, but they are both working.
Maybe you need a new voltmeter.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Maybe you need a new voltmeter.
Or maybe just a new battery.
Or maybe switch the dial to AC.
Or maybe two new transformers.
To all you guys either trying to be funny, or missing the solution:
Testing electrical apparatus needs to be taken in logical steps. If you have a suspect power supply, the very first thing to do is to REMOVE all loads from the supply. In toy train town, that means take all the locos and cars off the track, and/or disconnect the wires from the transformers. Then using a known, accurate voltmeter, test for voltage.
It is a sound procedure that before testing anything with a meter, you need to test the meter first. (That's why ohmmeters have a zero-adjustment knob, as an example.) In this case, put the meter on a known source, such as a 120 Vac outlet. Then proceed methodically. In the OP's case, an unsuspected fault in a load caused the appearance of a faulty source. We have all been bitten by the "oops, I forgot to disconnect the load," or the "oops, there's a sneak path" syndrome. Take the testing one step at a time, and don't let unforeseen factors skew the results.