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Update on the timeline.....

1. I will know this week when the Mianne Benchwork will be arriving......likely by the end of the month.

2. I acquired a layout-essential supply....pigtails for wiring.

EB933B01-DDDD-4101-AD91-B1E426DE536C

I will put an update this week after I talk with Tim. I have used the time to arrange the storeroom. I have also dropped two Pilot/SUV-sized loads of trains to Cabin Fever in PA. I have worked on my inventory list.

I have taken the delay in stride.....everything that I'm doing in the layout room is probably easier done without the chaos of a layout build going on......However, the gang in Midlothian (Richmond) are getting excited to help me put the benchwork up. It was March/April of 2011 when the modular group gang helped me put together the Mianne Benchwork for my 6x16 layout.....and they are looking forward to a rematch!

Peter

Yes!  I like those GarGraves pig-tails as well.  Pricey though, aren't they?

George

OK! Here's the latest Update......everything took a pause....my son got married in Philly on the 14th and I had Rufus for a week.....Rufus has been delivered back to Philly.....and, things can start up again.....

I finished building the Mianne Benchwork frame. As I said, I have not "motorized" the Lift Gate......that will come when I have the guys over to help with the plywood decking.

Here are the final structure assembly pics....the Lift Gate went up easily......

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Have a great day!

Peter

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Last edited by Putnam Division
@jeffrey37 posted:

Looks great Peter.  I hope my benchwork comes soon.  It is supposed to be shipped out this week.

From what you said, Jeff, I am assuming that you are also going to use Mianne. Here is a tip that I realized after the fact last time......

4x8 isn't really 4x8....it's more!

For example: if you put a 4x8 Mianne configuration together, it is 4x8 from the center of the vertical supports.....there is an extra 1 and 3/4" in the north/south, east/west direction.

I am going to take advantage of this and with good quality 1/2" plywood, go about 1and 1/2" over in each direction.

Peter

9E000B97-4E94-4505-8E7B-3BCE185D2E80

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OK! Here's the latest Update......everything took a pause....my son got married in Philly on the 14th and I had Rufus for a week.....Rufus has been delivered back to Philly.....and, things can start up again.....

I finished building the Mianne Benchwork frame. As I said, I have not "motorized" the Lift Gate......that will come when I have the guys over to help with the plywood decking.

Here are the final structure assembly pics....the Lift Gate went up easily......

D1B3EEB4-8E8D-4722-97F1-6F010DDD635C6B1A8ECE-DE7D-4331-85C5-DCF7EC4F2D45DF21D41E-9752-44CA-A097-C58AAA5E50F31AA24C39-AE4E-4AD9-B36A-57C9F0782207BCFD5898-E47D-4138-ACC5-AB0EDA8864425D9D6A65-1C1A-4750-94E9-4027F09020A9D4014B45-AB73-483B-9FAB-D9599B37D4CC9C56ED4B-3343-45E2-A10D-6C29050E127CCF647A7F-F65B-4614-B089-0B7F5DB9C4493305D2CB-2575-4B14-B47C-3E5928346F36E53F31AF-EF85-4BDF-BCF1-BA6140D26062264632B1-EB2D-4A61-B2C4-2198B85122FDF08B6E2A-77B7-4FF9-BE09-FE64B309D34DD4D1D31B-27F1-4421-B4B1-56E02BF0E3E5C25AC0E5-56F3-4CC4-BB36-E75B7EE038F2

Have a great day!

Peter

Looks great Peter. I ordered mine a few weeks back. Congrats on your son's wedding.

I finished building the Mianne Benchwork frame.

6B1A8ECE-DE7D-4331-85C5-DCF7EC4F2D459C56ED4B-3343-45E2-A10D-6C29050E127C

Have a great day!

Peter

Peter,

I recommend additional lower bracing (left to right in your two photos above). Mianne doesn't suggest this but I think it makes the table more sturdy and rigid. I have included it on both my layouts. You can see what I mean in this photograph of my 10'-by-5' layout table. I prefer legs to be braced in two directions. Just a suggestion and my personal preference... You can add it later.

Edit: As far as tabletop overhang, you can see that my layout has been built with 6-inch overhang on each side. Table plywood is 1/2-inch thick. Hasn't caused any problems at all, but I don't stand on the table.

MELGAR

MELGAR_2022_0515_02_10X5

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Last edited by MELGAR
@MELGAR posted:

Peter,

I recommend additional lower bracing (left to right in these two photos). Mianne doesn't suggest this but I think it makes the table more sturdy and rigid. I have included it on both my layouts. You can see what I mean in this photograph of my 10'-by-5' layout table. Just a suggestion and my personal preference...

MELGAR

MELGAR_2022_0515_02_10X5

The wheels are a great idea too. I have them on my 6 x 20 and had to change out light bulbs last weekend and didn't have to climb on the table. The extra braces make it more sturdy if you have to move it with all the weight the layout will add. Great start either way.

@jeffrey37 posted:

Thanks Peter. I was going to order the plywood before getting the base put together. I am glad you showed me this. Now I will wait and take some good measurements.

To illustrate what I mean a little better, I took some pictures with my 48" level....

1st, on a 48" I-beam.....

3B2DB914-F088-4C64-9600-B4CF0278A53D

next, on a 36" I-beam....

BFE1AF30-D239-4E96-AAFF-290E18D7BF91

Lastly, on a 24" I-beam......

E26BB6C3-D35E-43E9-A94C-7BE0672BA876

That extra room that will be available for the  layout will be great!

Peter

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@MELGAR posted:

Peter,

I recommend additional lower bracing (left to right in your two photos above). Mianne doesn't suggest this but I think it makes the table more sturdy and rigid. I have included it on both my layouts. You can see what I mean in this photograph of my 10'-by-5' layout table. I prefer legs to be braced in two directions. Just a suggestion and my personal preference... You can add it later.

Edit: As far as tabletop overhang, you can see that my layout has been built with 6-inch overhang on each side. Table plywood is 1/2-inch thick. Hasn't caused any problems at all, but I don't stand on the table.

MELGAR

MELGAR_2022_0515_02_10X5

I see what you mean....I have a few leftover 48" I-beams and I intend on using them....thanks, Mel!

Peter

This is the latest plan, which will no doubt have to be altered a little once I see how it works when the plywood is up.....

57E2E35C-1FB7-431E-A63F-9F24D263C4F7_1_201_a

.....those are one ft squares, and, there is ~3 feet of clearance along the top and right..... with about 4-5 feet on the left and bottom.....the dormers on the left are not figured into the diagram.....

I've already adjusted the R side, because there is a 5 track 27" Ross transfer trable on order.....

Peter

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From what you said, Jeff, I am assuming that you are also going to use Mianne. Here is a tip that I realized after the fact last time......

4x8 isn't really 4x8....it's more!

For example: if you put a 4x8 Mianne configuration together, it is 4x8 from the center of the vertical supports.....there is an extra 1 and 3/4" in the north/south, east/west direction.

I am going to take advantage of this and with good quality 1/2" plywood, go about 1and 1/2" over in each direction.

Peter

9E000B97-4E94-4505-8E7B-3BCE185D2E80

Great tip Peter.  Thank you!

@Putnam Division, Peter, Wow, your making real progress, your bench work is really nice, well made, and more than likely easily assembled. Question, my reason to build with Grid construction was to have the ability to have valleys, rivers, mountains, also an easy way to have trains rise and fall as does actual earth. Are you going to have risers for grades, and if so, how will you attach them? I really like your plan and I do hope you are allowing wide radius to be able to run those beautiful articulated locomotives. Your train room is one of the best I’ve seen, Gunrunner John also has a super cool train room. Thank you very much for sharing the updates often, it’s going to be a fun to run model railroad. Your friend in Tennessee
Happy Railroading Everyone

@leapinlarry posted:

@Putnam Division, Peter, Wow, your making real progress, your bench work is really nice, well made, and more than likely easily assembled. Question, my reason to build with Grid construction was to have the ability to have valleys, rivers, mountains, also an easy way to have trains rise and fall as does actual earth. Are you going to have risers for grades, and if so, how will you attach them? I really like your plan and I do hope you are allowing wide radius to be able to run those beautiful articulated locomotives. Your train room is one of the best I’ve seen, Gunrunner John also has a super cool train room. Thank you very much for sharing the updates often, it’s going to be a fun to run model railroad. Your friend in Tennessee
Happy Railroading Everyone

Larry......my plan is all on one level.......I am incapable of thinking in 3 dimensions.

Also, I am strictly an urban modeler.....no valleys, hills, etc. I hope to achieve changing elevations by varying the heights of buildings......and, I might enclose a corner or two in a tunnel with buildings/a city scene on top.

The Benchwork is customizable insofar that if you plan a river, canal or valley,  Tim of Mianne, can selectively adjust the height of the I-beams to creat them.

So, to answer your questions, I am likely not a great source of information. I guess, if I was going to have grades, I figure that I would use the Woodland Scenic risers. Unfortunately, woodworking and carpentry is not a skill I possess.

Peter

Peter, looking at you open house post on Weekend Photo Fun it occurred to me that you are experienced with both, module construction and Mianne Benchwork.  It seems to me that Mianne Benchwork would lend itself nicely to modular layouts.  From what Mianne users post it is top quality and easy to assemble and re-configure or add on to.  Not being a modular club member I don't see any negatives.  Having experience with both I was wondering what you think about that.

@coach joe posted:

Peter, looking at you open house post on Weekend Photo Fun it occurred to me that you are experienced with both, module construction and Mianne Benchwork.  It seems to me that Mianne Benchwork would lend itself nicely to modular layouts.  From what Mianne users post it is top quality and easy to assemble and re-configure or add on to.  Not being a modular club member I don't see any negatives.  Having experience with both I was wondering what you think about that.

Joe.....same answer as above:

I am neither a skilled nor insightful carpenter nor a woodworker......and, I lack the ability of thinking/visualizing things in 3 dimensions.

Peter

@coach joe posted:

It seems to me that Mianne Benchwork would lend itself nicely to modular layouts.  From what Mianne users post it is top quality and easy to assemble and re-configure or add on to.  Not being a modular club member I don't see any negatives.  Having experience with both I was wondering what you think about that.

Actually, I don't see Mianne benchwork as being all that appropriate for a modular club, and I am such a member, and I used Mianne for my layout.  For transport, you have to take the legs off the module, or at least build in the ability to fold them.  Also, Mianne is fine for a fixed layout, but the lateral strength is not nearly up to the of constant assembly/disassembly.  If you apply a side force to a Mianne Leg, it will likely split the I-beam end it's attached to.

......my plan is all on one level.....

Also, I am strictly an urban modeler.....no valleys, hills, etc. I hope to achieve changing elevations by varying the heights of buildings......and, I might enclose a corner or two in a tunnel with buildings/a city scene on top.

Peter

Peter,

Please try to include some terrain height variation on your layout. You can still keep the tracks level for ease of assembly and constant speed operation. Many layouts are perfectly flat and, to me, look unrealistic. Even if you don't include hills and valleys, you can easily vary terrain height above the plywood with layers of 1-inch-thick extruded pink foam that is lightweight, and easy to cut and shape. In the real world, there is terrain both above and below the level of the railroad tracks. It is much more work to create valleys (below track level) but not difficult to include terrain above track level. You can get away with flat terrain in an urban area with street scenes. Take your time and enjoy the construction process.

MELGAR

Last edited by MELGAR

Coach Joe,

I'm with Peter and GRJ as far as the Mianne frame is intended to remain in situ. However, on my smaller 4x8 layout that I moved to the basement, I asked Tim at Mianne to provide caster nuts with 3/4" deep threads to use casters instead of the leveling feet. The idea here is to be able to move the layout to accomodate activity in the  area. To strengthen the framework I ordered four more 2' I-beams and six more 4' I-beams to tie together the legs on the bottom. This worked well, and I plan to put a sheet of 3/8 plywood over that level to store the trains. In the pic below, the center lower truss is left out temporarily to add some wiring under the layout. This kit is the same one Tim assembles in his video on the website, I just modified it to my liking.

As to my 8x16 layout in the making upstairs, no cross-bracing is desired, because I need the storage space underneath for tubs, and it won't be moved after the final construction is complete (famous last words).

20220409_124303

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Last edited by 452 Card

Peter,

When you install the Gargraves pigtails, how far apart will you place them? Thanks to your post, I now know of their existence. No need to scuff up the rails and no soldering. That is the best way to go. And yes, they are a bit pricey, but like the Mianne solution they are worth it. I'm planning on using terminal blocks and wire nuts. Hey, if my whole house is wired that way, why not the layout?

@452 Card posted:

Peter,

When you install the Gargraves pigtails, how far apart will you place them? Thanks to your post, I now know of their existence. No need to scuff up the rails and no soldering. That is the best way to go. And yes, they are a bit pricey, but like the Mianne solution they are worth it. I'm planning on using terminal blocks and wire nuts. Hey, if my whole house is wired that way, why not the layout?

My gut tells me about every 5-6 track connections with more in an area where there are many turnouts.....

In reality, using a voltmeter and using as many as I need to ensure adequate power. What I said above will likely come close.....

I would welcome the comments of those more electronically astute....

Peter

Hi Peter, I am too much of a DYIer, but  I think you made the right call to get help with the plywood.   You are now officially a "house manager" with the motto of "I love work, I could watch it for hours"...

Plywood is one of mankind's greatest inventions,  and when matched with toy train track, it is truly a match made in heaven.   

 

@Bill Webb posted:

Peter you are making great progress. We are impressed with the quality of the benchwork and your organization. The train room is beautiful.

I probably missed it but do you plan to use something like homasote to deaden the sound?

Rossbed.......no screws (maybe one or two in certain areas) through to the plywood.......the glued scenery elements will hold it in place.

Peter

2nd.......a Ross track layout entails accurate track cutting......I was praticing on some Gargraves that I have......I had this cheap Harbor Freight chop saw ($30, ten years ago)......it was hard to sight where to cut......so much so that my nose was getting awful close to the cutting wheel to be able to see.

I was walking through Home Depot and saw this on sale for $68. I figure that it is less than an ER copay and has great visibility to sight the cutting line.....

605CE72F-944F-4035-8199-EBCA97821AC8A8DF90EF-82C8-4AA8-BB2A-30A89776114F271E6605-5D10-47E5-80DC-40A8B447E9E3

Lastly, I have gotten a notice that the 27", five track Transfer Table from Ross, arrives this week. There is lots of excitement here!

That's why I started my next building project: the Yard Office that houses the key pad......by TW TrainWorx.....

FA6D3992-5D2D-4868-BFCD-F781F684CDAE

Peter

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Last edited by Putnam Division

Try to find a vacuum connection point with on your power tools or have some one follow the blade, sander or router as it cuts through the plywood.  The saw dust can take over real fast before you know it.

Maybe drape some painters plastic over your many racks of trains.

Some tools have optional clip on vacuum attachment ports.

East wall knee studs 001Vacuum attached belt sander

I run a Delta dust collector mounted on a furniture dolly near my cutting area.

* "Vacume" is a colloquial rendition. 

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Last edited by Tom Tee

Peter I have a question - May have been answered a while ago in the initial construction phase but - what exactly are you using for general room lighting ? How many lights etc. and what is the overall size of your train room ?

We recently made settlement and are in the process of moving into our new home in Charleston SC - I have a 20 x 21 foot room  that’s going to be the train room

I am planning on building a layout and displaying trains on the walls similar to what you’re doing  / I was thinking of installing 12 flush mount 6” LED ceiling lights (3000k) - 3 rows of 4 lights - this seems to be the go to amount from most lighting manufacturers - not sure if that’s enough or overkill ???

Just wanted to get your thoughts

Thank you

Joe S

@dorfj2 posted:

Peter I have a question - May have been answered a while ago in the initial construction phase but - what exactly are you using for general room lighting ? How many lights etc. and what is the overall size of your train room ?

We recently made settlement and are in the process of moving into our new home in Charleston SC - I have a 20 x 21 foot room  that’s going to be the train room

I am planning on building a layout and displaying trains on the walls similar to what you’re doing  / I was thinking of installing 12 flush mount 6” LED ceiling lights (3000k) - 3 rows of 4 lights - this seems to be the go to amount from most lighting manufacturers - not sure if that’s enough or overkill ???

Just wanted to get your thoughts

Thank you

Joe S

Hard to describe…….I’ll take a picture over the next day or so and post it. I have dimmers.

Peter

Joe S,

Here is what I have in the train/guest room. My son-in-law is an electrician and this is what he installed. Recessed Halo dimmable LEDS wired to be controlled separately or together, meaning one side or both. Material obtained at Home Depot in a six-pack. They are spaced six feet apart from each other. The center "pillow" LED was the only light there originally. The room size is 18 x22' on a second floor.

Lighting

Here is the control. HD didn't have a dimmable LED control, but I found it on Amazon. $67.

The slider is for the pillow light. Sorry for the crappy pic.

Lt. Control

There will be a backdrop around the two walls adjacent to the layout, so no trains on display on the walls.

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Last edited by 452 Card
@dorfj2 posted:

Peter I have a question - May have been answered a while ago in the initial construction phase but - what exactly are you using for general room lighting ? How many lights etc. and what is the overall size of your train room ?

We recently made settlement and are in the process of moving into our new home in Charleston SC - I have a 20 x 21 foot room  that’s going to be the train room

I am planning on building a layout and displaying trains on the walls similar to what you’re doing  / I was thinking of installing 12 flush mount 6” LED ceiling lights (3000k) - 3 rows of 4 lights - this seems to be the go to amount from most lighting manufacturers - not sure if that’s enough or overkill ???

Just wanted to get your thoughts

Thank you

Joe S

Lights on the stairwell……then the main room and then dimmed…..

Peter

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@452 Card posted:

Joe S,

Here is what I have in the train/guest room. My son-in-law is an electrician and this is what he installed. Recessed Halo dimmable LEDS wired to be controlled separately or together, meaning one side or both. Material obtained at Home Depot in a six-pack. They are spaced six feet apart from each other. The center "pillow" LED was the only light there originally. The room size is 18 x22' on a second floor.

When I moved in, I had a similar setup, but I found the lighting wasn't sufficient with normal bulbs. 

I was actually looking at adding drops, but that's such a PITA that I did some more exploring.  After several aborted attempts at replacing the bulbs, I came across these, that solve the problem.  Talk about light!  These suckers really light up the room!

Sunco Lighting 2800 Lumens Outdoor Led Flood Light Waterproof PAR38 LED Bulb, Dimmable, 20W=250W, 3000K Warm White

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Thanks Mark!

Joe, I'm limited by the vaulted ceiling as to how many lights we could install, but the six I have plus the pillow seem to be just right. When they were installed, they were set at the lowest setting in the range. If necessary, they can be turned up brighter. (but not the pillow)

Now back to our regularly scheduled Putnam Division thread......

Ross Transfer Table arrived today……..I’m very excited, and, things should get rolling, soon!

1D2E4B07-6641-4B6B-B3BE-A4EC9B80054A2CC0D163-3169-4519-9FEE-5541FB949322

FE72A237-8E52-48DB-9A21-15B50290990FPeter

Now that is something of beauty. I have always been pleased with how well Ross products are packed. I know the first time I got a bunch of track in, I got nuts about the peanuts, but it was better that it was packed the way it was, than with minimal packing material. I used to work in shipping, so I know what flies, and what doesn't move hardly at all. I can't wait to see your article(should you write one as Don suggested) as well as it being popped on the layout when things start coming together sooner than later.

Now that is something of beauty. I have always been pleased with how well Ross products are packed. I know the first time I got a bunch of track in, I got nuts about the peanuts, but it was better that it was packed the way it was, than with minimal packing material. I used to work in shipping, so I know what flies, and what doesn't move hardly at all. I can't wait to see your article(should you write one as Don suggested) as well as it being popped on the layout when things start coming together sooner than later.

The packing is AMAZING!

Peter

@Putnam Division, Peter, Wow, I’m so happy to see you working on your layout, (You have a great crew) in your beautiful train room, or man cave. I know your excited to see your new table work, plywood topping, and soon, trains will be running. It will be a room of so much fun, thanks for keeping us updated. @NYCJOE, #Gunrunner John each have beautiful layouts in the making, and now, you are bringing your amazing ideas to this fun to review forum. All I can say is Wow!!! Model railroading is a fantastic hobby, you All make it fun. Happy Railroading Everyone

@452 Card posted:

Peter,

How are you attaching the plywood to the benchwork? Are you using the material from Mianne, or something else? Very curious about this because I'm stalled right now for that reason.

We tossed the hardware from Mianne and used a brad nailer to securely attach the top.  If you just attached it by the corners, it's free to vibrate on the I-beams as you run and create excessive noise.

We tossed the hardware from Mianne and used a brad nailer to securely attach the top.  If you just attached it by the corners, it's free to vibrate on the I-beams as you run and create excessive noise.

Hi John, you are correct about the plywood vibrating on the I-beams. Tim from Mianne sells a special I-beam clip that works great. I’ve purchased quite a few for my latest rebuild.

GeneAF65C86A-35B7-4CA2-BFB1-B1C4F0B66FF1

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@452 Card posted:

Peter,

How are you attaching the plywood to the benchwork? Are you using the material from Mianne, or something else? Very curious about this because I'm stalled right now for that reason.

A little bit of everything......the Mianne corner brackets; screwing direct to the I-beams; small 90 degree L brackets to the I beams; and, small lengths of 1x3s and 1x4s to join the pieces of plywood together then they are juxapposed "in air".

You can see one of the many 1x3s in the picture below....

958EEB19-3206-449E-B8D1-5162C06154E9

Peter

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Last edited by Putnam Division
@452 Card posted:

Hello Gene,

What distance apart did you arrange the clips? Say, on a 4 ft. I-beam, or a 3 ft. I have an AR 8 x 16 with both 3s and 4s. The 2 footers I think should not count, at least for each one of them. Curious to know. This could become expensive!

Thnx

I forgot to mention, my layout was originally a 4x16 and I added the 2’ to the length. So there’s a short 2’ I-Beam on one whole side which obviously didn’t need any clips.

Gene01448C30-40E6-42A2-B633-D03B81A8A845

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Not a lot done this week. We will finish the plywood and hopefully get the lift bridge motorized by the end of next week.

I have bought a gallon of brown paint the cover plywood. I put out some track to see if it agrees with the spot for the transfer table (it does!).

Lastly, I put the switches and special track pieces inside their roadbed.

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Moving forward..........slowly......but, moving forward!

Peter

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Last edited by Putnam Division

With the help of my good modular group friends......things are starting to roll!

1st, I needed another 3 ft I-beam for my transformer shelf. I had these extra cantilever beams which I no longer needed......I adapted two of them to become a new I-beam.

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Last Friday, Tom (Gilly@N&W) came over and we finished the plywood decking. The Lift Gate motor was hung (but is not connected-a project for a future session).

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This week, I will be sanding the edges; filling the gaps with plastic wood; more sanding; and then, painting the plywood with an earth brown color.

Peter

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Peter, thanks for the Ross endorsement.

FWIW, I used to use plastic wood in this application,  however, early on I found that a Portland based feather finish like Ardex or Henrys feather finish product available at HD's flooring dept or any floor covering supply house troweled on easier, spread further to correct wide spread irregularities, dried hard, was easily sanded, dried quickly, and less expensive than plastic wood and had an indefinite shelf life if kept dry.

If at all possible please consider a layer of Homasote.  It is an feature some may question, but you will never regret.

I would never build a layout without Homasote.

Last edited by Tom Tee

Peter,  You may like to check with GRJ's layout build.  When we did the Mianne lift gate we found some needed points that required extra attention.

John goes into detailed explanation on improving the control and correcting pulley/cable alignment and function.  Great operating upgrade !

I found that subtle floor irregularities would throw off flush deck alignment.  Short levels just did not pick up the end result of the slight irregularities.  Multiple irregularities accumulate over a distance that ultimately affect a smooth flat consistent surface along the length of the joining edges.

As soon as I set an 8' level over the Mianne we noticed the source of the lift gate deck misalignment.

That Mianne lift gate is kind of nice but in some aspects it is a work in progress.

Last edited by Tom Tee
@Tom Tee posted:

Peter,  You may like to check with GRJ's layout build.  When we did the Mianne lift gate we found some needed points that required extra attention.

John goes into detailed explanation on improving the control and correcting pulley/cable alignment and function.  Great operating upgrade !

I found that subtle floor irregularities would throw off flush deck alignment.  Short levels just did not pick up the end result of the slight irregularities.  Multiple irregularities accumulate over a distance that ultimately affect a smooth flat consistent surface along the length of the joining edges.

As soon as I set an 8' level over the Mianne we noticed the source of the lift gate deck misalignment.

That Mianne lift gate is kind of nice but in some aspects it is a work in progress.

Thank you!

Peter

@Tom Tee posted:
If at all possible please consider a layer of Homasote.  It is an feature some may question, but you will never regret.

I would never build a layout without Homasote.

I can attest to the benefits of Homasote!  My main level is very quiet, my second level didn't get Homasote, and I'm kinda sorry I didn't adjust the build to add Homasote to it when I could.  I solved some of the noise issue with butyl rubber sound deadening panels under the wood, but the Homasote would have done a better job.

Tom, the two pieces that are an addition to the stock liftgate install are these two upgrades.

The first is expanding the control switches to have one on each side of the liftgate instead of the single clumsy big yellow control.

Mianne Lift Gate Control Expansion

The second enhancement to me was a major improvement in reliability of the lower limit switch.  When you see the lame toggle switch and angle iron limit switch that comes with it, it's easy to see why they can get out of whack easily and cause a major issue with the cable unspooling.  This only has to happen to you once to realize it's a big problem!

Mianne Lift Bridge Lower Limit Switch Enhancement

Finally, here's the diagram of the stock liftgate servo system for the curious.

Mianne Lift Gate Winch Wiring Diagram

PETER - Layout progress to date looks great. Don't forget to think about access to all points on the layout. Those derailments are never seem to happen where you can reach them.

Your documentation by photos continues to be a great source of inspiration to us other O gauge railroaders.

The hard-to-reach places will be "scenery only" ........I still might contract the static scenery on lift out.......I'll see down the road.

Peter

Last week, I painted the plywood decking and started getting out the track.....

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Since I got home from DC, I've been busy.....just to see where everything will go before we cut out for the Transfer Table and cut the custom sections.

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Have a great day, everyone!    

I am!

Peter

Building a masterpiece of a layout like this: such excitement, creativity, hard work, joy, fulfillment.

We can follow Peter's progress and think back about all the positive things we felt when we built our own layouts.  Arnold

Last week, I painted the plywood decking and started getting out the track.....



Since I got home from DC, I've been busy.....just to see where everything will go before we cut out for the Transfer Table and cut the custom sections.

F12C31C2-37DA-464B-A280-96DA52CB946E280ED923-FED6-4E6A-815D-5E3D31AEF898C83204B8-051C-4DA7-A90C-518577E4AE44BDF93F72-0B70-4092-8ACF-632CBF5744CF9DE6F075-98A4-4577-A792-C94AF17AF352

Have a great day, everyone!    

I am!

Peter

Awesome Peter, love the roadbed cutting jig/tool. Also curious, I can't remember if you were going to ballast the track? Are you going to fill in the Rossbed gaps between the tracks even if you ballast the track?

Everything looks great. Pretty soon the New York Central(and other railroads) will be having trial runs to make sure that the track connections and electric are in perfect working order.

@452 Card posted:

Peter,

What is the brand of that small handsaw you are cutting track with?

The picture with the Zona saw shows me cutting the foam RossBed. That is a 14.5' piece of RossBed which I'm cutting down to fit the 10" straight (then, I use the rest to outfit a 3" straight) ......to cut track, I use a Ryobi chop saw with a metal-cutting blade.

Peter

Awesome Peter, love the roadbed cutting jig/tool. Also curious, I can't remember if you were going to ballast the track? Are you going to fill in the Rossbed gaps between the tracks even if you ballast the track?

Everything looks great. Pretty soon the New York Central(and other railroads) will be having trial runs to make sure that the track connections and electric are in perfect working order.

I definitely will ballast.

Peter

@Putnam Division, I see this thread is at the bottom of the list, so, I say, “WOW”, thank you for all the great pictures of Progress in motion, the brown paint certainly shows how hugh your layout is, it’s awesome. Have fun at York, stay safe, have a good breakfast at “Around the Clock Diner”, then go for the gusto at York, a train meet like no other. Happy Railroading Everyone

Post York with all the track and supplies I need....

Been up here working for about 3 hrs and it hardly looks like I've done anything......but actually a lot has been done. In medicine, we have a saying which is our response to the burden of computerization, "death by a thousand paper cuts"......

Well, the layout-building equivalent is Gargraves connector pin punctures. I'm sure everyone cringes a little thinking about them......

I'm at a good stopping point for today.....here are some pics. I also what to say a big "thank you" to all the kind words and encouragement about the layout that I got at York. They are appreciated!

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Have a great day, everyone!

Peter

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Post York with all the track and supplies I need....

Been up here working for about 3 hrs and it hardly looks like I've done anything......but actually a lot has been done. In medicine, we have a saying which is our response to the burden of computerization, "death by a thousand paper cuts"......

Well, the layout-building equivalent is Gargraves connector pin punctures. I'm sure everyone cringes a little thinking about them......

I'm at a good stopping point for today.....here are some pics. I also what to say a big "thank you" to all the kind words and encouragement about the layout that I got at York. They are appreciated!

0895A438-EFAE-4DC1-A252-E42EDE3AE5C9E579D7D5-0BA3-416F-AF10-DAF5C9FF391C0895A438-EFAE-4DC1-A252-E42EDE3AE5C9A52CECDF-F2C3-4C0A-930F-0785220D47D929730278-C6E7-43F6-8113-DFEF027FC8159FF203CF-8608-4F46-83AC-3A2F22DC8DF4FBB83C27-F5BB-444D-B097-EAC338A21CAD

Have a great day, everyone!

Peter

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@Former Member posted:

Hi Peter,  really enjoy your updates! You seem to be really close to getting at least one loop of track up and running.  Are you thinking of a target date for that.  I don't think I could wait much longer.

Dave.......no time limit.

I'm spoiled. Just got back from running trains at York. In addition, I have our three modular layouts 6x11 tinplate, 12x15 and 21x43 Atlas O to run on. There is an 11-3 "Halloween Open House" for the public this weekend.

Consequently, I am taking my time. I can stop when I come to an impasse and really think it through. When I'm tired, I can leave in for another day, etc. I can plan for "helpers" when I need them.

Once I get the track down in a generally complete configuration, it will be time to call for helpers. Time to install the Ross 27", 5 stop Transfer Table, make sure the track is straight, assign power and plan the overall wiring.

I am also spoiled that I have skilled helpers who are generous with their time.

In addition, I am currently President of our local modular group. Our busy time is upon us. Starting November 19th, we are committed every weekend (and some weekdays)  for 9 consecutive weeks!

Peter

Peter

Last edited by Putnam Division

No bridges, no elevations. When I design layouts, I can only think in two directions….

Peter

Is there no water on this purposed layout Peter? No lakes, no ponds, no river? I hope there's a water barrel somewhere collecting rain water if no other water is around. How will the livestock have anything to drink if there's no water? 😉

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