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Greg, That is an excellent observation, and thank you for asking.  The switches are about 10 inches below and recessed about 5 inches under the station.  There is plenty of room...as long as I don't get careless as in trying to push one at the last minute.  However, it does bring up a point I haven't mentioned.  I have found it confusing to have the switches in a row, but controlling turnouts on two levels.  I intended them to only be where they are temporarily until I put in a nice fascia, then make a nicer looking permanent installation.  Now I think I need to either make two rows, the upper level switches above the lower or make a bit of a track plan panel for each level. 

I also have them wired into the AIUs for control from the remote.  I have found that too cumbersome to access on the remote considering how closely spaced the turnouts are.  I have not even looked at setting up routes with the remote to select all the necessary switches at one time.  There have been more exciting things to do on the layout.  I guess I have finally hit the point where there are lots of things to do, and I can pick whatever I feel like doing.  So yes, the switches will be moved at some point.

Thank you, Andy.  I worked on the shingles for a while longer.  One side of the gable is done. The instructions said to line them up at one edge cutting off half a shingle every other row and staggering the seams like you should.  I could never line them up right.  Since the strips are slightly longer than the roof, I finally just let them overhang on both sides so my fingers weren’t in the way of lining them on the edge.  That worked better for me.  Sorry I didn’t get a photograph.  

Last edited by Mark Boyce
@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Andy.  I worked on the shingles for a while longer.  One side of the gable is done. The instructions said to line them up at one edge cutting off half a shingle every other row and staggering the seams like you should.  I could never line them up right.  Since the strips are slightly longer than the roof, I finally just let them overhang on both sides so my fingers weren’t in the way of lining them on the edge.  That worked better for me.  Sorry I didn’t get a photograph.  

my kit came with shingles but they were not the peel and stick type. I applied thin double sided tape to the roof first and then added a row of shingles starting from the bottom up.

my kit came with shingles but they were not the peel and stick type. I applied thin double sided tape to the roof first and then added a row of shingles starting from the bottom up.

David, you did a great job with the shingles.  I was afraid I would be getting the thin paper shingles stuck where they weren't supposed to and not be able to reposition them without tearing the paper, so I bought the peal and stick ones.  Here it is right now.

2022-04-03 19.01.13

@David Eisinger What do you call the pieces on the roof that I assume breakup ice that is sliding off the roof.  The prototype had them, and you included them on your model. I want to buy some for my model.  Thank you!!

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Thank you, John and Dave!

Yes a steady hand helps.  Mine aren’t as steady as they used to be.  I had to reposition a lot of strips, and some I ended up leaving not quite even from strip to strip.  I don’t notice except on close examination, so I moved on.

Dave, thank you; I was hoping there was a little bit of material to get in a hole to glue.  I can measure and drill well enough, but without a guide, my unsteady hand would have difficulty even resting my hand on something.

@Mark Boyce posted:

David, you did a great job with the shingles.  I was afraid I would be getting the thin paper shingles stuck where they weren't supposed to and not be able to reposition them without tearing the paper, so I bought the peal and stick ones.  Here it is right now.

2022-04-03 19.01.13

@David Eisinger What do you call the pieces on the roof that I assume breakup ice that is sliding off the roof.  The prototype had them, and you included them on your model. I want to buy some for my model.  Thank you!!

@Mark Boyce ! Ohhhh, I love it ! Where did yu but this?

Thanks !

Leandro, thank you.  Did you see Dave's finished model of the same kit farther up this page?  The kit is made by Carolina Craftsman Kits.  I only see HO kits on his Web site.  I searched for the Thomas WV kits  https://carolinacraftsmankits....ucts?keywords=thomas I have the O scale two stall engine house built.  He only does limited runs, so You would have to email or call and ask what he has available.

Last edited by Mark Boyce

wow Mark, Your doing an outstanding job! The station and what you have done on the roof look superb! I really like the placement with the 2 story section facing towards you I think it really adds a lot to your layout! Keep up the wonderful work and I hope to check in more often then I have in the past! It has been a hectic couple weeks for me!

Thank you, Mike!  I'm glad you are back!!  I am liking the station positioned with the 2-story section facing the viewer/operator as well.  I think the station will look better with the snowbirds like David put on his wonderful build.  The railroad wouldn't want sheets of ice and snow falling on passengers waiting to board!    This is certainly snow country!!

Here are a couple views of the station with all the shingles in place.  I'm pleased with the overall look.  I still need to add a chimney.  The one provided in the kit is way too short in my opinion.  Since I don't know the exact size, I didn't cut a hole for it.  I did order the snowbirds last evening.  Thank you David!  I have material for the foundation like David used on his station, so that is the next part to do.

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Thank you, Rubin, Bob, Dave C, Dave P, Bill, Richie, Jay, Mallard, Peter!!

Rubin, I am going to make a base out of thick styrene like David Eisinger did on his model that he showed on the last page.  The kit comes with some nice plastic sheet with stone patterns embossed and colored.  I have never used RR Track, but I would have taken a lot longer to design my layout with SCARM if it hadn't been for some forum members' help.  I hope you can get started on your layout when construction is done in August.

Dave C, I have seen them on older buildings here in Pennsylvania.  I had no idea what they are called.  I was assuming some technical name. 

Dave P, I chose slate in the hopes the roof could withstand higher winds than other shingles. 

Richie, I will certainly look at Model Tech Studios.  Thank you for the tip!

Jay, I will have to put on more passenger cars for sure! 

Mallard, well I guess you would have to call it a kitbash.    The walls were done per instructions from a lasercut kit, but the roofs, foundation, and whatever I do in the interior will be scratchbuilt.

Thank you everyone for all the comments and 'likes'!

Thank you Mike and Andy!!

I'm trying to take care of myself, Mike! 

Andy, I am leaving the interior for later.  Both roofs are removable as well as the foundation.  That will give me the ability to add lights and interior later, since I don't have anything to put in it yet.  I will round up parts for both stations I built this winter plus the signal tower I built last summer.  Then I will be able to do that maybe next winter.  I was hoping to get both stations exteriors done this winter, so I am pleased I got as far as I did.

Thank you Andy!  Yes, I think a summer of acquiring the details for the three buildings will work nicely to ready for some winter 'interior decorating'. 

I did make a foundation base like David Eisinger did for his.  1/8" sheet styrene on top of 1/8" x 1/8" styrene stock.  I cut strips of the stone embossed plastic that came with the kit and glued them on the edges of the foundation.  When I positioned the building back on the foundation, I realized I had made it a smidgeon too long, even though I had checked it before gluing on the stone.  Typical for me.    So I shaved off the stone and some of the styrene, then glued another strip on the end. 

Well today we have had snow, sleet, rain, hail, and sunshine, all more than once!  There is a crew of roofers at a house down the road who are pulling their tarps off before they get them totally in position.  They have gotten a lot done however.  I only took the dog for his morning walk and car ride.  Otherwise, I'm staying in and going back to the layout.  This seat is starting to hurt again. 

Mark, finally had time to check this out. Wow! You have really made a lot of progress. The contributions by other people is a great help for all of us and there are a lot of neat ideas like the snowbirds.

My first thought was, “Not needed here. But wait, we are modeling Roanoke and some years they get a ton of snow.”  Something else to order.

Keep up the good work. Uh, you know, you can have those interior lights and all the good stuff in a couple of weeks… be done by June. What a great head start for next winter. 🙄

We need sand for scenery. Making a run to OBX tomorrow to stock up. Sift it and have nice sand and pea gravel.

Thank you, Andy!  I should mention paying attention to my dear wife, Kim, too! 

Here is a closeup showing the foundation and 'cement' steps.  I still have to put in dome posts or pins to position the building on the foundation.  Right now it is free floating, as is the hip roof.  I have some scribed Evergreen sheet left over from a project 30 years ago, that would make a nice plank floor.  There isn't enough of it to cover both first floor 'rooms'.  On the other hand, I wonder if it would be noticed much even with good LED lighting inside.

2022-04-10 17.48.53

I received the snowbirds from Tichy Train Group yesterday.  Yes, they will be 'fun' to work with, but I think the effect will be worth the effort.  I noticed snowbirds on the smooth, red roof of the local Sheetz convenience store while pumping gas after church.  That store was only built a couple years ago.  I liked the Bollinger Edgerly Scale Trains shingles so much, I ordered some for the Altoona Model Works Station I built earlier in the winter.  The peal and stick shingles that came with the kit were easy to apply, but keep curling up so that the edges of most leave a gap of several scale inches.  For this one I ordered Standard 12 inch 3-Tab - Dark Gray instead of the Slate shingles Slate Gray.  I also ordered some Aluminum / Tin / Lead Flashing (O).  There isn't a photograph to see what that looks like, but 10 pieces, 8 inches long for $11.95, I put it on the order too.

John "Aegis21" contacted me volunteering to design and 3D print a chimney.  I sent him a couple photographs and we discussed dimensions.  That is really kind of him.

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The station is really looking great Mark! I'm having the same dilemma over how much interior detail is too much for my personal sensibilities. A structure with storefront windows--yes, a decent amount of detail--but those with smaller windows don't really need as much, especially if you hope to complete all the projects a big layout requires. Neat interior lighting effects can be achieved with faux blinds printed on regular printer paper, and with black foamboard baffles to illuminate a structure with just a couple of LEDs. I also just purchased a bulk pack of 8 gooseneck exterior lamps from Model Tech Studios and will install them in a few streetside scenes.

Last edited by BruceG

Bill, Thank you!  You posted just as I was posting the previous reply.

The last year I worked up on 'The Mountain' at Mount Storm Power Station, we had one snowfall over a 2-day period of 40" at our house in the valley and 48" at Mount Storm only a few miles across the ridge from Thomas.  Yes, our roof was damaged some, but Erie Insurance paid for it to actually be fixed better than it was built.

Yes, I could have the details soon, but I haven't even started looking.  What's a good source for interior details suitable for railroad buildings?

That sounds like a great plan to get some sand at OBX.  I hear they have a lot. 



Bruce, Thank you!  You are so right about using blinds on buildings like these.  The Atlas signal tower kit came with blinds right on the acetate for the windows, so there is a lot of hidden areas even though the building has big windows.  I'm assuming there were offices up on the second floor of this station, and there was no freight handled here for an interesting scene in an open freight door.  I was thinking about lights over the doors.  Do I put one over every door?  And why did this building have so many doors?  I have been thinking of searching through my archive to see if I can find any interior floorplan or description of activities in this building.  That would actually be more for curiosity, but is one reason I haven't searched for interior details.

Mark, if the interior is somewhat visible. Altoona Modelworks makes some nice looking bench seats. They are on page 8 of their detail line. If you come up with a floor plan. I’m sure a lot of it’s petitioned off into individual rooms that can be left to the imagination. I’m sure the Western Maryland has a Historical group. They may be able to supply some info. .
I found some nice door lights on eBay. Pricey at 10 bucks a light. They had ones from overseas that you got 4 for the same price.  I had 5 doors to do on a building. The lights are on hold for now. I have used the Berkshire Valley ones in the past. They don’t light up but they look good.
  Years ago I built a $30.00 gas station craftsman kit. I worked as mechanic so I knew how to detail it without doing any research. I proceeded to spend another 200 on detail castings, figures and such. Was worth it as it’s right on the edge of the layout and I get plenty of comments on it.

Well you got me motivated to start shingling again. Even though I wear glasses. I swear 2 years ago I could see the tabs on the shingles better.  

Dave, I will certainly check on Altoona Model Works.  You are right about the station being divided into rooms, and many areas wouldn't be seen (like rest rooms) or have rooms or alcoves that would be hard to see through any window.  I have some information from the WMRHS, but just need to look through it before looking elsewhere.

I can see with my glasses okay, and better with my magnifying head light, but with shaky hands I don't always get parts put where I want them.  I got evenly spaced lines drawn on the roofs okay, but kept having trouble getting certain courses of shingles closer together.  I kept pulling the shingles off and doing over, then just left it go.  I don't notice it unless I do a close inspection, which I never do once it's on the layout.

Thank you David and Bob!!

David, I was a member of the Western Maryland Railway Historical Society for some years but let my membership lapse.    I just got done digging in the closet under the basement steps where I have extra books, magazines, and most of my MTH and Lionel boxes.  I have the Blue Mountain Express issues that I received during my membership from 1995 to 2009.  So guess what?  Volume 25, Number 1, Spring 1996 has the drawings you referred to.  For everyone else's benefit, first are the drawings for the 1901 station that was heavily damaged by the 1944 tornado, then the drawings for the 1944 station that our models represent.  The 1919 valuation map of the area is there too.  So all the information was sitting right under my nose, and I had forgotten all about it.    It will take too long to put in as many 'blush faces' as this oversight deserves. 

So, each first floor room has one door, and the skinny door opens directly to the staircase to the second floor that has a hallway, two large rooms, one smaller room in the center with a closet? with two windows.  Those rooms aren't labeled as to their use.  The first floor has a baggage room and express office under the second floor.  The middle of the building is a waiting room with a door on each end, stairs down to the furnace room, and men's and ladies' rest rooms.  The far end has an operator room and trainmen's room.

I've been meaning to rejoin, but finally did at your prompting.  Thank you for pointing me in the right direction, David!!!!

Last edited by Mark Boyce

Mark I checked our list of sources and our top three are  Model Tech Studios, Rusty Rail, and Berkshire Valley. Bar Mills has 20% off on Woodland Scenics figures.

We usually look thru each and write down what interests us and then go back the next day and make a final decision.

These things will make the station come alive. Yeah, they are not cheap. We have done interiors for 6-7 buildings in the last year including the roundhouse. Finally about done.

Good luck and have fun.

Mark,

For years I’ve stockpiled all kinds of detail parts from vents and conduits to all the equipment needed for a machine shop, not to mention oodles of industrial equipment. Now all I have to do is figure out the structures to put around and on top of them.
My train room to be now has a new concrete floor and wall studs. The drywall and ceiling goes in the next week or two. But I really won’t have access until August, when the kitchen and rest of the house are done. But progress is being made. Now all i have to is design a track plan that will accommodate my switching needs and my grandchildren’s desires for Lionel operating accessories.
I’ve got 19x20 with a 7x5 extension on one end, which is almost 3x more square footage then I’ve ever had before. So…

Rubin

I haven't had much time this week for the layout of station, but did make a decision to trim back the platform the station will sit on.  This will allow a little more room for putting cars on the staging ramp below and allow for the railings along the station platform and track to be right out in front in full view.  I also put on some lateral support for the thin lauan plywood. 

2022-04-18 17.41.12

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Thank you, Andy!  I stopped in Hobby Express in Cranberry Township last week after visiting my 91-year old parents in a personal care home, and bought some Northeastern scribed sheet wood for the platforms.  Looking at the prototype photographs, I see they laid all the planks parallel to the sides of the station instead of perpendicular like I usually notice.  I just need to scribe in where planks would be laid end to end.  Again, I’m going to build up the platforms with strip wood to get the platforms to the right height and add strength.

Yes! You are getting there quickly. This is going to be quite a scene when completed. Very nice!!

What are your plans for handling the space between levels one and two? I must admit that we are quite interested since we have a similar situation with a 2 level station that has been sitting awaiting work for three years.

How do you plan to handle the level 1 front and side?

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Thank you, Dave, Bill, and Dan!

Bill, the plans for the first level are sketchy at best.  Mine may sit for three years as well!   

On this end I had to lean over the benchwork to get this view, but was just planning two tunnel portals with a hillside in between.

2022-04-19 16.05.12

This end and the front may just have a removable panel or wall of some sort.

2022-04-19 14.07.24

Dan, I'm glad that what I have done can provide some ideas for others.  That station at Keokuk, IA is a fabulous building and will make a great model!!  I'll be glad to watch that one come together!

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Thank you, Bill, Greg, Rick!

Bill, This whole area of the layout has changed so much since I was planning it.  There wasn't even a kit available for the Thomas Station and I had no intention of even putting any station there.  Once the kit was available, then I had to come up with a logical place for it.  Now the endeavor is to make the two levels somewhat make sense.

Greg, the sheathing is scribed to represent 6" wide planks.  The platform sheathing that came with the Altoona Model Works station is scribed for 12" wide planks.  It is reasonable for an older station, but I think the 6" will look better.

Rick,  I just picked up the Western Maryland diesels picture you gave me from getting framed at Michael's.  They had a coupon for 70% off, so we got it framed along with and another picture I bought at the Greenburg show several years ago.  It looks great!  Thank you!  I was going to send it to you in a PM, but since you commented, this works.

2022-04-20 13.27.16

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

Thanks Mark,

Glad it made it in the mail in one piece. The printer does 95% of the work, so taking credit would be deceitful at best. Now if I asked for the pitch of the roof and added flashing to that chimney, then I could accept some credit. I appreciate all the great work you have done on your railroad, and have learned a lot from you and all on this forum. I am sure you will do a great job with that chimney.

John

Andy, Yes I see now.  That is a good idea, for either of those locations.  I'll keep that in mind as I move along.

Ever since I started making the upper level platform for the station, I have been bothered that the station wouldn't sit parallel to straight track like we normally see.  The track at the end of the passing siding made an 'S' curve with a carlength of straight track in the middle.  I got the idea of what would it look like if the siding extended across a double track truss bridge when I saw a forum member offer one for sale.  I contacted him about possibly purchasing it.  Since it is already built up he wanted to deliver it at York or have someone locally buy it.  The trip to his house wouldn't have been out of the question except I still don't ride well with my sciatic pain.  I finally told him that and to try to sell it to someone else.  However, I had a couple GarGraves turnouts I didn't use on the layout.  I was really happy that one of them would replace the section of flex track in front of the station.  I cut about 3/16" off the one end of the switch and some tie ends off the other end for a good fit.  So I have a straight siding now that dead ends at the bridge just as if a double track bridge was replaced with a single track bridge.  I ran two test trains last evening without incident.  Here is how it looks over head.

2022-04-23 19.48.04

The section of Northeastern scribed sheathing will be trimmed a little narrower for the walkway with the to-be-built railing.  Andy's staircase idea could be located anywhere along there.  Then I will put more scribed sheet for the platform along the end and along the other side of the station.  The platform and railing will be a mirror image of this.

2022-03-23 13.04.16

Here are a couple more views.

2022-04-23 19.49.22

2022-04-23 19.47.55

As can be seen, I still need to put in some roadbed for the new track since it is in midair right now.  I just wanted to mock it up to see how the concept would look.

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

I laid out the platforms the last few days.  I had to build up the station site with more lauan and styrene so the platform material would come up to rail height.  The photographs show the results.

2022-05-01 19.58.50

I extended the platform planks beyond the supports far enough to make some reasonable looking steel support and the railings.  I had to make a split in the platform so the station module can be removed when necessary.  It all could look better, but it doesn't look bad to me.

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I think I will take a break from that and paint and install the chimney and snow birds to the station istelf.

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@Mark Boyce posted:

I laid out the platforms the last few days.  I had to build up the station site with more lauan and styrene so the platform material would come up to rail height.  The photographs show the results.

2022-05-01 19.58.50

I extended the platform planks beyond the supports far enough to make some reasonable looking steel support and the railings.  I had to make a split in the platform so the station module can be removed when necessary.  It all could look better, but it doesn't look bad to me.

2022-05-01 19.58.38

2022-05-01 19.58.26

I think I will take a break from that and paint and install the chimney and snow birds to the station istelf.

Very nice, Mark!

Peter

Thank you, Jay, Peter, and Tom.

Jay, good question.  I ran my Premier Russian Decapod and a GP7 on the spur past the platform with no issues.  The platform doesn't quite come up to the top of the rail.  The station is far enough from the track for my longest cars (18" passenger) to not come close when taking the diverging track back to the main line.  I'll keep checking others before I proceed further.

Thank you, Richie and Andy.

The barrel loading/unloading platform is 19" long.  My straight track is 28" long, that is counting the track the station faces.  You hit a good point about my layout.  My areas of straight track that could accommodate those long accessories are where the bridges are and where the 4% grades are.  I tried to fit in a siding for my coal ramp unloader or my log loader, but they don't fit unless I give up on the mountain scenery I want to include.  I do have a sawmill and coal loader that would fit.  If I had grandchildren, then I would have done things differently, so I am saving the accessories for when/if we have grandchildren.

Let's move to a different part of the layout.  I mentioned up this page on April 24th that I have the opportunity to buy a built up Atlas double track truss bridge from another Forum member.  That is what led me to put in the siding in front of the station to the single track bridge.  Since I didn't think I could drive the 2-1/2 hours each way to pick it up, I finally told him to try to sell it to someone who could pick it up at York.  Today, he contacted me that it is still available and he is willing to meet me half way for the delivery.  I can do that, since it leaves time for plenty of stops to get out of the car.  The question is how would it work out on the layout.  Here are a couple angles to imagine how the double truss would look.  I'm asking for opinions of issues I may face.

2022-05-03 19.55.01

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As far as operations go, I would like one longer siding to park a long train to get a shorter one around it.  I could have the switch just at the end of the bridge and extend the upper loop a little longer.  I forgot to take a photograph of that area.  Any opinions on this change are welcome.  Thank you.

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Mark, do you mind posting a close up of the top of the transformer station, I picked one up at a local RC shop knowing it was broken but did not see the lighting insulators were completely missing (broken off) . That will help me decide what to do.

I have a few operating accessories but have sold off more. As much as I enjoyed them on my buddy's layout, I don't think they will fit in with my current layout. At some point maybe an homage to Lionel postwar, but with a separate layout.

The double track truss would look good, but how are you going to modify your trackage. Room seems to be at a premium. - Saw the note after the photos but still wondering.

Last edited by ScoutingDad

Thank you Jeff and Bill.

Jeff, is this the view you are looking for?

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I agree about the operating accessories, they don’t fit here either.

I agree with you both it would be neat.  The switch that would be moved is 13-1/2” long.  The straight section on the other side of the bridge is 5” long.  That leaves 8-1/2” to move the upper loop back track.  It would fit with little clearance, but overhang would be in the open window except one spot.  I would actually have better clearance to reach the switch under the track.  I am still thinking of moving the town to the upper level with a lift out section.



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Incidentally, I have been painting the station chimney as well.

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Last edited by Mark Boyce

Mark,

Your station looks really great!  Nice work.  The layout is really starting to come alive.  I think the double track bridge would look great in that spot if you decide to go that route. Keep it up!

By the way, I think @ScoutingDad might have been referring to the model of the power sub station you have below your bridge, but I could be wrong.

Michael

Mark - with the elevated track best look into a grounding wire along side or foil under the track to stop the TMCC/Legacy signal from interacting with the base level signal. You will know if you have issues if a loco on the base level track stops and the front light starts blinking.
The wire or foil can be covered with ballast or scenery w/o affecting its performance.
Joe

Thank you, Joe.  I have mostly MTH engines, but do have a couple of Legacy ones.  I have noticed sometimes one of them stalls going under the overpass by the new station.  At first I thought it was something else, then realized it is probably the issue you mentioned.  I just haven't done anything about it there yet, and will certainly have the issue if I close in the track that is now up on piers.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I mocked up some 054 track so I could see if I would have enough clearance at the wall if I extended the straight track coming off the bridge by using the switch mentioned above.  I had to clamp things down, but it looks like it would work giving me as much clearance as I have in the curves on the adjacent wall.

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So much for track plans......😂😂😂🤣

I'm all in Mark!

" Another 10 pack of track for me and the boys"

Bob

Mark, a layout is ever evolving, and we face the task of solving a puzzle of sorts. I think your plan will work. To that end I have some flex or possibly some straight sections that I do not/will not use. I can send them to you so you don’t need to travel. I’ll get back to you later today.

On another note, where did you get the power sub station? Is that from Woodland Scenics? That would be perfect next to my sub station building on the layout.

Andy

Last edited by Steamfan77

Thank you, Andy!!

I have left the mock up sit for a couple days, looking at it from every angle, taking measurements, and just pondering the concept.  I sent a PM back to the forum member who has the double track bridge, but haven't heard back from him.

Thank you for the offer on the track.  I'll have to take inventory myself.

Yes, the power substation is a built-up Woodland Scenics product.  I haven't changed anything on it yet, but having worked most of the first half of my 43 years in electronics in substations I have a couple things to change.  I know too much for my own good of how an old substation should look.  It is a very well done model.  Last summer I tried to build the Walthers' HO substation.  It is a nice kit, but it told me why I stopped modeling in HO.    The parts are so small, and many have no tabs for physical connection, that even with fast acting CA, I couldn't keep things straight.  I can use it for a background forced perspective model, such as it is.

One forum member wrote me an email about raising the town up to the level of the upper track and some ideas of what to do with scenery for the lower tracks.  His ideas are good, and it wasn't the first time the idea was brought to my attention.  Initially, I had wanted a town on the mountain on the other side of the high bridge, and a town in the valley on this side of the low bridge, separating the two in my imagination.  With the twice around, over and under track plan, there will always be a place that is tough to scenic.  Such are the issues of building an O gauge layout in an 11 x 11 room. 

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