Wow, Mark.....well done.......I am not a woodworker.....I am very impressed....
Peter
Thank you, Peter!!! I am certainly not a woodworker either! 
If you were here, you would see that almost all my saw cuts are cock-eyed, and I have lots of holes in the wood, where I drilled and found out that won't work. I have lots of wood scraps from the trial and error, but have been able to reuse some in building the piers for the high bridge. 
So here are the two basic piers with a spliced 1x6 acting as the strength to hold the delicate Atlas through truss. The 1x6 and bridge are just sitting on top unattached to prove I got the pier heights right. Finally!!!!!! You can see I pulled out the two K-Line plastic timber piers to make room to get the high bridge worked out. I still have to figure out how I will hinge it on the left and maybe make a big deep pier for it to rest on to the right. I do have hinges that should work if I slide the bridge to the left a bit and build up the wood with all my scraps. 
Here it is from the outside with the through girder bridge lowered. No, Mike, I didn't do anymore wiring. I just lowered it very slowly with the speed adjustment lever on the Lionel 0100 12-vold DC power supply I bought in the late '60s to run my HO train.
I finally actually think this will work out! 
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BTW, I upgraded from the iPhone 6s to the iPhone XR. I think I like the photographs.
Mark - you probably do not want to do this, but a paper girder bridge could be built so that there was a continuous piece of steel across the length of the bridge. Since you do not need it for support - its an option. I did a post a while back on making my paper girder bridge. Mine is holding up well. Jeff
Jeff, I do recall seeing the paper girder bridge. It looked really nice! I looked for it on the Twin Pines topic, but see you posted it on another topic. Thank you!
The photos look great!
I really like the look of back to back (to back) girder bridges. Not sure why but it's cool.
Bill, Thank you!!
Yes, I bought the middle girder bridge which is painted to look like a rust weathered silver with Western Maryland Railway on both sides. There is a long girder bridge over the Black Fork of the Cheat River at Parsons West Virginia on the real Western Maryland Rwy. at the bottom of Blackwater Canyon. It is a long girder bridge. I could post a photograph, but I don't have one of my own, so I would be breaking the Forum rules. Anyway, that would be ideal. To bridge this gap, three girder bridges worked out well. I would like to repaint the new bridges to match the middle one, but that isn't necessary for now. A future project would be to make a new single span like the prototype, but who knows if that will ever get done with so many other projects ahead of it.
A note on the Atlas through truss bridge I didn't mention yesterday. I did mention a few weeks ago that it needed some minor gluing from shipping. No big deal. However, the middle section of 5 that are on the very top of the bridge was missing for the most part. It was my fault I didn't notice that from the photographs offered. No wonder I got it for such a good price. 
That section basically needs to be rebuilt from scratch. That's another project, but it could be built at the workbench, and then glued back in. I put in some white cardstock to show off the missing section.
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Wow, so the aluminum looking cylinder under the bridge area lifts the bridge? And lowers the bridge to? Cool deal. When raised up, does this give you enough room to walk inside the layout with ease? You and Mike g. are so clever. My bridges are lift ups and outs by scooting the track connecting slide shoes all the way off the Atlas O double girder bridge and the MTH bridge, with the bridges completely off, then the entire scenic detailing is on a rolling platform that comes out of the layout and is rolled out of the way, then I have a platform to stand on and work on the middle of the layout. I wish I had seen these ideas 15 years ago. Great woodworking, great thread. Just for the record, we have snow to shovel, it’s time to go to work. Happy Railroading Everyone
Hate to say it but I wouldn't have noticed that missing part in the pictures if you hadn't pointed it out haha
Thank you Larry and Bill!
Larry, Yes applying up to 12 volts DC the cylinder raises and lowers the bridge. Mike's design was very similar to mine with a nearby upper bridge. There will be a lateral board attached to the bottom powered bridge that comes in contact with the upper bridge shortly after it starts to go up. That attachment then pushes the upper bridge up and lowers it down when the powered bridge goes down. Mike's works very smoothly. The bridges are almost perpendicular when in the totally raised position.
I looked at many different methods of opening the tracks to walk in including lift outs, lift up, lower down, swing out. It sounds like yours does have the nice feature that the scenic portion can roll out and you have a platform to work on the interior.
Having passed through Middle Tennessee many times travelling to Fort Smith, Arkansas I know any appreciable accumulation of snow is rare. We visited my in-laws there during the 10 years before my father-in-law retired and they moved back to Pennsylvania 25 years ago. Don't work too hard on shoveling snow. Every time I mention it, Mike tells me to take it easy. He says leave it since the snow will eventually melt. I shoveled a bit this morning, but we didn't have much since on Monday a warm system came in over us and it mostly came down as freezing rain. We are expecting snow again tomorrow.
Bill, I know the gap doesn't show up much unless you are looking down on it. That's why I'm going to go ahead with the bridge installation and plan to come up with a way to fix it later.
@Mark Boyce posted:A note on the Atlas through truss bridge I didn't mention yesterday. I did mention a few weeks ago that it needed some minor gluing from shipping. No big deal. However, the middle section of 5 that are on the very top of the bridge was missing for the most part. It was my fault I didn't notice that from the photographs offered. No wonder I got it for such a good price.
Mark,
At one time, I had some leftover girders from the kit which expands the single track Pratt Truss* bridge to the double track version (I bought it only to make a pair of short girder bridges). If you give me a few days, I will try to track them down. They won't match these exactly because it isn't the same bridge, but, IF I can find them and IF you want them, they are yours. You might be able to cobble up something that looks close enough out of the pieces.
This bridge you have is very interesting: those top panels--the flat parts, anyway--look very much like the top panels from the Lionel Short Extension Bridge. If you can get hold of one of them, you might be able to use it for parts, too.
Somebody has done a really interesting job of 'bashing!
@palallin posted:Mark,
At one time, I had some leftover girders from the kit which expands the single track Pratt Truss* bridge to the double track version (I bought it only to make a pair of short girder bridges). If you give me a few days, I will try to track them down. They won't match these exactly because it isn't the same bridge, but, IF I can find them and IF you want them, they are yours. You might be able to cobble up something that looks close enough out of the pieces.
This bridge you have is very interesting: those top panels--the flat parts, anyway--look very much like the top panels from the Lionel Short Extension Bridge. If you can get hold of one of them, you might be able to use it for parts, too.
Somebody has done a really interesting job of 'bashing!
That would be great. If you are able to find them, I would be glad to have them. Thank you also for the suggestion of the Lionel Short Extension Bridge. That is what I was thinking, besides scouring the Internet, I have something to look for at train shows...whenever they start up again.
Found them! (That was easier than I thought it was going to be!)
Let me take some pics tonight and send them to your email so that you can see what I have and what might fit your needs.
Mark, Sorry if this thought is a "repeat", but as your plan for the lower level girder deck bridges evolves, make sure the pilot of whatever locomotives you plan to run will clear the deck bridge as it enters from a curve.... It appears, from the photos, that at least at one side you have a switch located right at the entrance to the bridge. I didn't read every post above in super detail, but you might consider making it the type of bridge where the "girder deck" is under the tracks, so you have unlimited swing room entering and leaving the hinge up bridge section. The other benefit of below the track deck bridge is it could hide some of the wood side frame, the drawback is you'll feel like there is no protection from having a horrible wreck there where something could go to the floor.... My suggestion if that is a "concern" is you could put up clear plexiglass sides to prevent drops to the floor.
I thought I had enough swing room on my Atlas Double Track Truss bridge with an Ross Regular 0100 switch, until I unpacked and ran my B&O EM-1, needless to say, had to move the switch away from the bridge about 4 inches, as the bridge wasn't going anywhere.
Good catch Chris! This is the positive part of this forum! Folks that see stuff others might miss!
Palallin, That sounds great! I will be happy to look at a photograph to see if it will help.
Chris, Mike is right! That is a good catch! Thank you! I just finished checking my engines. I lowered the bridge, put down a piece of cork and fastened a piece of flex track to the switch with the track pins just to make sure it was lined up true. (I see my cork shifted, but no matter for this) My first suspect is the one that is the closest to touching. It is an SD40-2 that has a wide swing. The snowplow pilot isn't the closest to the bridge sides, but the deck of the 'long porch' comes extremely close to touching. It in fact just makes it over the to top the girder. To close to count on if there is any sway.
This is an engine that has proven to be troublesome for me before, and I have been thinking of putting it up for sale. It also catches the door frame of the engine house because the curve of the wye switch is so close to the front of the engine house. (You may not have seen that discussion since it is a couple pages back.)
My steam engines that have the widest swing are the H9 Consolidations. They are okay on the bridge. I did try the Shay for kicks, and I see the side pistons come very close to the near corner of the girder. I forgot to take a photograph of that.
I'll have to think about whether to go with the deck girder sections suggested. I already plan to get some Plexiglas for along the edge of the layout. That particular switch feeds a siding that is parallel to the edge of the table. It is the one place I think a derailment could fall off the table.
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Mark, couldn't you just pop the rivets or screws from the girder sections and just move them outboard a bit? You don't need the metal base for support. A lot easier than selling an engine or moving switches. If you build the paper girder sections you can place them wherever you want and make them as long as you want.
Mark,
Excellent resolution on the photos, new Iphone really produces great photos.
Steve
Mark, I am with Jeff. The other thing you could do if you have a table say is remove the sides and just notch out the plywood base on each side for sides of the girder sections to sit a little lower. I would really hate to see you sell an engine over a bridge!
Mark- I would take the bridge apart and place the girders a little further apart to give you the clearance. It could even be off-set to the outside a bit to make up the clearance needed. OR- shorten the girders by cutting them in half and gluing them back together. I'd hate to see you regret selling that sweet SD-40.
Bob
Thank you Jeff, Steve, Mike, Bob!
Steve, Yes I am really pleased with the photographs from this iPhone! The resolution should be better, I see the files average about 3 times as large as with the old iPhone.
Everyone, I was looking at it after my last post, then went to get my wife at work. So I tried a couple of quick mockups based on your ideas. The first was to remove the girder bridges and the top layer of plywood, then set the bridges on top of the frame of the lift bridge, shimming up the track with one of those pieces of scrap I have mentioned before. The engine rides high, midway up the girders, but there is plenty of clearance as shown in the third photograph.
Then I laid the plywood back on the lift bridge frame and placed the girder bridges back on as before. I found out they don't use rivets, but little bolts and nuts. I took 6 of the 8 ones out of one of the bridges to spread the girders skewed farther apart at the end in question. I kept two bolts in place so I didn't have everything flopping around for the mockup. There is plenty of clearance now. You can see a nut-bolt pair in the last photograph at the lower right, just to the right of the long switch linkage ties.
I could also make a long bridge like Jeff's paper one as well.
Like Mike said in his reply to Chris' comment earlier, "This is the positive part of this forum! Folks that see stuff others might miss!"
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@Mark Boyce posted:The first was to remove the girder bridges and the top layer of plywood, then set the bridges on top of the frame of the lift bridge, shimming up the track with one of those pieces of scrap I have mentioned before.
Then I laid the plywood back on the lift bridge frame and placed the girder bridges back on as before.
Mark one thought is if you can replace the top piece of plywood that the bridge sits on with a wider piece. Paint it black and screw the base onto it in the current position. Than screw the sides separately at the proper width and keep the sides parallel.
Mark rather than take your well made wood frame apart, try taking piece of 1/2" stock, or 3/4 " stock about 1 to 1.5 inches wide -- clamp it to the sideframes of your existing wood frame, but 1/2 to 3/4 inch below the roadbed, then use that 1/2, of 3/4 inch wide "shelf" that you have created to screw your deck plates into. Now the deck plates are both wider, and lower and have something to mount on without taking much of anything apart. Plus with some clamps you can experiment with the height.
@chris a posted:Mark rather than take your well made wood frame apart, try taking piece of 1/2" stock, or 3/4 " stock about 1 to 1.5 inches wide -- clamp it to the sideframes of your existing wood frame, but 1/2 to 3/4 inch below the roadbed, then use that 1/2, of 3/4 inch wide "shelf" that you have created to screw your deck plates into. Now the deck plates are both wider, and lower and have something to mount on without taking much of anything apart. Plus with some clamps you can experiment with the height.
Great solution Chris! Also might I say maybe a little easier then the rest of our ideas! LOL
Emails sent, Mark! Let me know if you don't get them.
The creative juices are flowing. 👍👍
Bob, You are right, "creative juices are flowing."
Rich and Chris, both ideas will be easier than some others as Mike said.
Thank you everyone for all the great ideas. I knew this bridge project would probably be the toughest part of the whole layout for me to do. I have put a lot of time into it, but want to carry it through to completion before going on to something else. I was looking at it earlier today with just the same eye as Mike said, wanting to make it as easy as possible for now. Just like the raised track on the plastic trestles, I can come back later and build better looking bridges if I want. I saw Ross is offering some excellent looking girder bridges with walkways and railings that would be great for one example.
Steve, Thank you for the photographs in the emails. I glanced through them, and some of that material should work. I'll reply to the email once I do some measuring.
Thank you, everyone!
@Mark Boyce posted:
Man, that is cutting it close. Until you remedied it I was thinking that for fun you could have a miniature O Scale drink can or bottle (that's connected to the underside of the bridge by a string) setting on the ledge and see if it gets knocked off by impact or vibration of the running train LOL
Kevin, LOL! That’s a great idea!
Mark,
I didn't read all of the replies, so here goes. Can you cut the girder bridges in half "long ways"? (Down the middle of the metal base.) I admit destroying 3 bridges is nuts, but it is an option. I like just taking one side off and remounting it somehow.
Charlie
Mark;
Not sure if this would work, but could you get some somewhat wide wood strips, paint them black and attach them with some strong glue under the metal base??? Then, you could attach the girders to the wider wood using small wood screws. Just a thought.
Neat project and great problem solving ideas. Can't wait for the next step on the project.
Thank you, Charlie, Paul, and Pennsynut!!
Charlie and Paul, both are good ideas. It is obvious to me that I will be taking the three bridges apart, whether I take the nuts and bolts out of one side or both sides, or I will be cutting the base. I am thinking taking the bolts out is easier and neater.
I'll look at them again later today and experiment some more with the ideas and see what works out easiest and looks the best.
Pennsynut, I can't wait for the next step, and the next step, etc either.
Everyone has had great ideas!
I went to a train show in Canfield, Ohio yesterday. It was a nice show, well attended, but nothing caught my eye until I got to the last row. A fellow had the Atlas single track and double track bridges for sale. I had checked them out online before, and knew they are 40" long, but the single track bridge followed me home in the snow and wind.
So, I need to rethink the bridges. Here is what I have come up with. The original truss bridge can go on the lower level. It is short enough that I can have enough clearance for the engines coming off the switch in question. They will be straightening up before coming to the truss. The Atlas can go on the upper level and extend over part of the table.
I would have a problem since the 054 curve on my high line starts right after the bridge. However, if I extend some straight track a few inches then start the curve, it will end up being near the lower level track. Most of my town buildings will be in the foreground of the tracks. I can do the same on the other end of the curve. I removed a section of curved track and another trestle bent, then placed two curves on to the left to get an idea if it would work. Looks like it will.
Yes, I tilted the Atlas bridge up on end to make sure it will not hit the ceiling when raised, and I have about 6 inches of clearance. I can use one or more of the through girder bridges in the far corner of the second photograph where the Black Fork of the Cheat River comes down the mountain between the two tracks on the far wall of the layout. I have needed bridges there as well.
Now, let's make sure I don't break the Atlas bridge like I did the Menards when I dropped it on the floor.
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Sure like the Atlas bridge. I have two on my layout and it makes a real scenic statement IMHO. Cheers.
Thank you Pennsynut. I forgot to mention, after I got home with it, I realized I could have gotten the double track one and put it on the lower level. I could have taken out the switch and run the siding across the bridge, then put a switch in on the other side of the bridge to get to the main line. The seller was a just a modeler who said he had moved and didn't have room for his bridges in the new house. I have no idea who he is. An angel, for all I know.
Mark,
For what it may be worth, pic of the end of my double track bridge. 045 on the right, 054 on the left. The 045 curve attaches right at the end of the bridge; there is a 1 3/4" straight between the bridge track and the 054 curve. So long as the bridge stays in place--it tends to wander a bit--I have yet to have problems with medium-sized scale steam or scale rolling stock. The big Lionel command control crane can be troublesome if not locked just so.
YMMV, of course.
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@palallin posted:Mark,
For what it may be worth, pic of the end of my double track bridge. 045 on the right, 054 on the left. The 045 curve attaches right at the end of the bridge; there is a 1 3/4" straight between the bridge track and the 054 curve. So long as the bridge stays in place--it tends to wander a bit--I have yet to have problems with medium-sized scale steam or scale rolling stock. The big Lionel command control crane can be troublesome if not locked just so.
YMMV, of course.
Thank you for the photograph and comments!! Yes, the end of the bridge isn't nearly as high as the girder bridges I was working with last week. Hopefully it will work out as well for me as it has for you!
Mark,
That Atlas bridge looks great. Nice find! The upper and lower truss bridges are defiantely reminiscent of scenes I have seen while traveling through Western Maryland, West Virginia and PA. Keep up the great work!
Michael
Mark - great find on the Atlas bridges - those things are massive. You do know there are such things a padded rooms for certain situations. ; ) Just don't drop this bridge for heavens sake!
Palallin - where did your get the rerailing track for the bridges. I have several sections of Gargraves bridge track with the 5 rails but they do not have the taper. Or did you just bend some track?
Jeff
