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Hi All,

As many of you know, MTH ScaleTrax #4 and #6 switches have been out of stock for quite some time. Some have questioned MTH’s commitment to a product line aimed at Hi-Rail and 3RS modelers when the most realistic switches in the line were no where to be found. However, it’s precisely MTH’s commitment to ScaleTrax that lead to the long production delay. And, to tell the truth, as MTH pointed out on the new Manufacturer’s Forum, it’s partly my fault.

Several years ago when the stock of original production ScaleTrax #4 and #6 switches started to run low, MTH asked me to catalog all the quality control and design issues that my crew and I had encountered. I don’t think Mike Wolf was expecting the length or level of detail of the problems we documented in our 13 page presentation. To his credit, Mike gave the entire document to the production team and instructed them to fix everything!

My crew and I have built several ScaleTrax layouts with hundreds of #4 and #6 switches. I’ve shared with all of you both the advantages of ScaleTrax and the problems we’ve found here on the forum, in an article in run 251 of OGR, and in clinics I have given in the MTH booth at the York Meet. Now that we have new production switches I thought it would be interesting to take a look at the changes that were made.

This discussion will use several terms to describe particular switch components that may be unfamiliar to some. Here’s a little switch anatomy diagram I made a few years back…

 

The most common problem with first generation ScaleTrax switches was a loss of insulation between the metal frog and the adjacent rails; potentially leading to short circuits when a train traversed the switch.   The quality control on the first generation ScaleTrax switches left a lot to be desired. Often one or both of the closure rails made contact with the frog. Additionally, the stock rails leading out of the frog were never designed to be insulated. Insulating the stock rails from the frog is not necessary for safe operation through the switch, but it is a convenience for adding electric non-derailing or signaling. On original switches we added thin styrene shims between the frog and the four adjacent rails, and recommended MTH alter the mold to inject plastic to hold the gap. The new batch of switches does not have plastic in the gaps, but the quality control has been greatly improved. I inspected a dozen of the new switches and did not find a single offending gap.

 

A literal weak point of all original ScaleTrax switches was the throw bar.   The bar design included two plastic tabs that clipped on to the points.  It was not uncommon to damage one or more of these tabs if you tried to drill the throw bars for Tortoise switch machines or handled a switch without care.  As we recommended, MTH has redesigned the throw bar, replacing the plastic tabs with metal machine screws.

 

The process of applying electrical jumpers has also been changed. Some, though not all, electrical jumpers on first generation switches were applied to the rails before the plastic was injected into the mold for the ties. The idea was that the bare jumper wires would become encapsulated in plastic and would therefore be insulated from other switch components. Atlas attempted a similar design when they first introduced their 3-Rail O “21st Century” track in 1997. Both manufacturers encountered shorting problems when the bare wires would “float” to the surface. Approximately 2% of original #4 ScaleTrax switches had a jumper failure that connected center rail power to the frog, and 1% of original #6 switches failed when the center rail jumper contacted the diverging route closure rail.

 

The new design installs all the jumpers after the plastic is in place. This ensures proper insulation in every switch and makes it easier to remove a jumper when you want to isolate track power. The long center rail jumper on the through route even has a small screw so you can easily break the center rail connection.  Most importantly, the jumpers are a nice heavy gauge strip that can safely carry a LOT of current.

 

 

 

The most radical change of the new production run applies only to the #6 switches. The original switches had a design error that was only noticeable when running a few select locomotives. The pivot of the switch points on original #6’s was very close to the pickup roller path. Locomotives or cars with extra-wide rollers could contact the point and momentarily energize the point with center rail power. A direct short resulted if that moment of contact coincided with the back of a wheel rubbing against the point. The only locomotives I have found to date with exactly the wrong geometry to induce this problem are Atlas FM Erie Builts and Atlas C-628/630’s.

 

MTH has corrected this rare problem by shortening the points on the #6 switches and re-locating the pivot point away from the pickup roller path by one tie.

 

Improvements have also been made to the activation buttons and switch motors. ScaleTrax switches come with an excellent set of wires for hooking up to accessory power. The wire sets are pre-terminated with spade connectors that fit nicely under the mounting screws on both the switch motor and activation button. Each contact is held by a #2 phillips head screw inside the plastic case of the button or motor. However, the holes in the original case designs were only large enough for #1 or #0 screwdrivers. The holes have now been enlarged to accommodate #2 phillips screw drivers. Not all of the buttons and switch motors in my new shipment have the enlarged holes, so it appears that MTH is working through old stock of button and motor cases.

 

Probably the single most important improvement MTH has made is something you’ll never see. Inside each switch motor is a tiny little device that adds a LOT of safety. Each motor now has an automatic re-settable circuit breaker attached to the (+) terminal.

 

With original ScaleTrax switch motors it was important add electrical protection against a stuck activation button or inattentively leaning against your control panel. If power was applied to an original ScaleTrax switch motor continuously it generally didn’t draw enough current to trip the circuit breaker on a typical accessory power supply, but it did generate enough heat to melt the plastic case and/or burn surrounding scenery. With the addition of the resettable breaker, the motors are now protected from activation failures. It also allows you to safely add electric non-derailing without additional control hardware. One point of caution is still in order.   The breaker is only rated for 16 volts. Higher voltage could cause the breaker to fail with repeated tripping. If you run your switches off of track power and you run command control with 18 to 20 volts constantly on the track, you could wear out the breakers. Use an accessory power supply, such as the 14 volt accessory output on a Z-4000 or Z-1000, and you’ll be fine. The breaker will trip after roughly 5 seconds of continuous draw at 14 volts. The breaker will remain tripped until the short circuit is removed. After the short is removed, the breaker will reset in 3 seconds.

Hope some of you will find this information useful.

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Dave, I am glad you put this together as I am new to a lot of this. I plan on ScaleTrax for my future layout and have already started buying track. Now I have a better understanding of the switch's and am glad they have them back in stock, I was getting worried I would have to use some other switch.

These are fine looking switches. I would add two more suggestions. Color the ties closer to prototype. Some track ties are available either brown or black but typically wood ties are some shade of brownish black.

Also, offer the switches without switch machines for those who prefer under the table machines.

Pete

Last edited by Norton
rex desilets posted:

For MTH's next venture I recommend #5 switches

The "#4" is actually fairly close to a #5 according to the documentation (12.1 degrees), but the important thing is the point radius being large enough to handle longer fixed wheelbases.

Dave:

Thanks for the review/explanation. Nice to see that the shortage in the supply was related to re-tooling/improving the product.

Dave,

  Great review!  And good news on the improvements.  I've had some Lionel engines arc between the frog and the points and had to either change to MTH rollers or grind the ends down on the Lionel rollers.  Moving the pivot point forward will fix that problem for good.  Man, I'm getting the itch to build a new layout!

Rich

Hi guys,

Thanks for the positive feedback.  It's appreciated.

rex desilets posted:

For MTH's next venture I recommend #5 switches

Rex, as Matt mentioned, the ScaleTrax #4 is actually a #5.  It's frog angle is 11.25 degrees.

For those not familiar with numbered turnouts, they are defined by the angle at which the diverging route departs the frog in a straight line, rather than a continuous curve.  The number comes from a ratio of the length of the sides of a right triangle that equates to that angle.  Here are the defining triangles for #4, #5, #6, and #8 turnouts.

ScaleTrax frog angles 2

You'll notice a #5 has a frog angle of 11.3˚.  A ScaleTrax "#4" has a frog angle just a bit smaller at 11.25˚, the same as a "Ross Regular" or Gargraves "O-100".  A ScaleTrax #6, at only 9˚ is actually slightly shallower than a defining #6 triangle.  If we superimpose a #5 triangle over a ScaleTrax #4 and a #6 triangle over a ScaleTrax #6 you can see how close they are.

ScaleTrax frog angle

 

Rich Battista posted:

Dave,

  Great review!  And good news on the improvements.  I've had some Lionel engines arc between the frog and the points and had to either change to MTH rollers or grind the ends down on the Lionel rollers.  Moving the pivot point forward will fix that problem for good.  Man, I'm getting the itch to build a new layout!

Rich

Rich, do you remember which Lionel engines you had to modify?  It's always nice to know how to eliminate trouble before the sparks start flying.

I hope you do start building again!  Can't let a great talent go to waist.

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Excellent post, Dave!!! Thanks for sharing this information.  I just purchased a bunch of the new #6's and #4's, so this is very timely information!

It's great to see MTH implemented the suggestions from your letter.  I'm planning to use Tortoise switch machines mounted beneath the roadbed, so I too think it would be a nice option for MTH to offer ScaleTrax turnouts without switch machines -- especially the #4's and #6's.  However, I can understand most folks using the smaller radii turnouts (i.e., O-31, O54, and even O-72) might not be interested in purchasing turnouts w/o the switch machine and controller.

David

Last edited by Rocky Mountaineer

Dave,

Wow! What an awesome write up. Your pictures and your diagrams are extremely helpful. I just received some of the new build of #6 switches this past week and noticed a few of the changes but didn't realize until now just how many changes these new units have over the previous ones.

One question for you. You have obviously verified the design changes visually as you have pointed out; have you also been able to test the new production units in action to see if there are any unforeseen issues?

Thanks Again!

-Jonny

NCT,

   It will happen, not sure exactly when, but it will happen!

Dave,

   I have had several Lionel steamer and diesels arc at the frog.  Its because the wide Lionel rollers cause the problem.   They momentarily connect the powered frog to the points when the wheel flanges touch both the points and the side (ground) rail.  It causes an arch at the wheel flange.  This happens with the new SD40s.  The photo below show rollers for two of the new Lionel SD40s.  On the left is the original roller, on the right is the roller after I beveled the edges using a grinding stone on the Dremel. 

 

20160808_072157

MTH clearly must of ran into this problem when running their engines on Scaletrax because their rollers have insulators on the ends shown in the photo below.  So the beveled Lionel rollers have about the same contact width.  The SD40 on the right works well whereas the one on the left sparks through the switch. 

I believe the modifications to the MTH switches will fix this since the points are moved forward forward enough so the rollers will not make contact with the frog and points at the same time.  But if they don't, grinding the rollers was not that hard and it fixed my problems. 

 

20160808_072940

 

Your switches never had any problems!  Part of it is that you don't have that metal frog.  This switch is a thing of beauty.   If I do build a new layout, I will keep this switch for sure. 

 

 

20160808_071249

For a new layout I plan on only using #6 switches, 30in straight and 30in flextrack, maybe a cross.  I will not use O-72 switches and my min curve will be wider than O-72 this is mainly to accomodate 2-rail engines.   Diesels don't need it but 2-rail steamers would.  If MTH built a #8 switch I would use that instead.  I may try to build some switches myself this time around, only in the more visible places though. 

 

Rich

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enginEErjon posted:

One question for you. You have obviously verified the design changes visually as you have pointed out; have you also been able to test the new production units in action to see if there are any unforeseen issues?

Hi Jonny,

Not yet.  My current project is an S-gauge layout, so it may be a little while before I get to install them on a proper layout.  Hopefully some of you who are receiving your new switches and installing them right away will share your results here before I can.

Rich Battista posted:

Your switches never had any problems!  Part of it is that you don't have that metal frog.  This switch is a thing of beauty.   If I do build a new layout, I will keep this switch for sure. 

20160808_071249

For a new layout I plan on only using #6 switches, 30in straight and 30in flextrack, maybe a cross.  I will not use O-72 switches and my min curve will be wider than O-72 this is mainly to accomodate 2-rail engines.   Diesels don't need it but 2-rail steamers would.  If MTH built a #8 switch I would use that instead.  I may try to build some switches myself this time around, only in the more visible places though. 

 

Rich

Rich

That "thing of beauty" and plastic frog have the same source - Ross Custom Switches.

The curved switches that I have built with Scaletrax rail have been based on Ross #6 and #8 curved switch dimensions.  I have used Ross plastic frogs milled down to match the 0.193" Scaletrax rail height. 

With practice and the right tools you can lay a switch in a few hours.  Stay away from the NMRA specs for 3 rail switch dimensions, they are all wrong.  Ross switches are the best source I am aware of for correct dimensions for post-war and modern 3 rail equipment.  Steve knows more about the interaction three rail wheels and rails than anyone.

A few #8s and curved switches would be a great visual and functional addition to any layout.  I look forward to seeing the layout and a tutorial video on how to hand lay 3 rail switches.     

Rich,

Thanks for the Lionel roller photos.  I'll keep an eye out for them on ScaleTrax layouts.

As Matt guessed, scale wheeled engines do have a tough time with 3-rail frogs when you get to larger sized turnouts.  Fortunately, there is a solution that's easy to implement when you build your own turnouts.  If you compare width of the flange way on a Ross frog, and the width of the gap between the stock rail and guard rail opposite the frog, you'll notice the measurements don't match NMRA Hi-Rail specs.  This is one place where Steve knows FAR better than the NMRA when it comes to building a switch.  Ross frogs and guard rails are much tighter than the NMRA spec.  A tight gap on the guard rail keeps the flanges pulled away from the frog point and ensures reliable running.  Follow the measurements of a Ross #8 curved and scale wheeled engines will run just fine.  We have a few #8 curves on the NWTL and MTH diesels with scale wheels operate just fine.

Here's a hand laid 9 degree ScaleTrax crossing I built a few years ago.  Unfortunately, I had to build it twice because the first time I built it according to NMRA specs.  We had trouble with both scale and hi-rail wheels traversing the crossing because the flange ways were too sloppy.  Once I tightened them to dimensions similar to a Ross switch everything ran fine.  We've since run thousands of axles, including scale wheelsets, without a single derailment.

Were any of the manufacturing design and quality control fixes for the Scaletrax numbered switches applied as well to the other Scaletrax curved switches (O-31,O-54,O-72)?  I don't see this mentioned in the thread.  Or were these curved switches pretty much problem free from the beginning?

Also, and somewhat off topic, some batches of Realtrax switches have had issues with arcing and derailing in the past.  I have had personal experience with this.  Are newer Realtrax switches design corrected for those issues?

Hi Bob,

Like just about everything in this hobby, track is manufactured in batches.  The upgrades to common components, such as the switch motors, will be included in all future production runs.  There are O-31, O-54, and O-72 out there on store shelves from earlier production runs that don't have the mods, but they seem to be selling through pretty well.  I know there have been two batches of O-54's in recent years that sold out.

None of the curved switches had fundamental geometry issues like the #6's.  Most of the problems with them were related to insulating gap issues around the frog.  The quality control on the newer batches of O-72 and O-54's have definitely been better than the originals.

RealTrax has a MUCH more complex history.  Early RealTrax (originally sold as RiteTrax, but there was a trademark conflict with Atlas' track planning software, so MTH changed the name), was made in Korea and was VERY good quality.  There weren't any fundamental design failures with RealTrax.  All the shorting and switch motor issues were related to quality control when production was moved to China following the collapse of Samhongsa.  The tooling for some RealTrax sections was stolen from Samhongsa's factories and had to be re-tooled.  The new tools were not as good as the original tools and required modification and/or replacement.  When metals prices skyrocketed in the late 2000's MTH changed some pieces to a cold rolled nickel silver rail instead of the solid nickel silver.  The hollow rail pieces are quite good.  Newer production RealTrax switches (everything MTH has in stock) is better quality than what was made between 2002 and 2007.  There are still some issues with the switch motors that are pretty easy to fix in the field, but shorting issues seem to have been resolved.  The main issue with installing RealTrax switches is maintaining an insulating gap between the non-derailing rails and the adjacent track section.  A little electrical tape on the end of the rail takes care of the problem, but it's something that could be eliminated with better control of rail length during manufacturing.

Dave,

I have a few #6's where I had to put in a piece of foam between the center rail the the diverging side rail.  I have some Steam Engines where the pickup roller would dip too far down and derail the engine.   Did you ever experience this and did MTH address this problem?

Slide1

For those with arcing problems, I found a little addition of some liquid electrical tape brushed on to any affected area helped with reducing or eliminating the roller touching and arcing.

Ron

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Last edited by Ron045

 Hi Ron,

Ron045 posted:

Dave,

I have a few #6's where I had to put in a piece of foam between the center rail the the diverging side rail.  I have some Steam Engines where the pickup roller would dip too far down and derail the engine.   Did you ever experience this and did MTH address this problem?

 Yes, I have seen the issue you noted with the gap between the center rail and closure rails.  I've had more than one engine try to "pole vault" itself over a pick-up roller that caught in the gap.  On original switches we glued strips of styrene to the center rail to reduce the gap.  We did include this in the our notes to MTH and the gap has been greatly reduced on the new production #4's and #6's.  It should not be a problem any more.

Hi all of you. Many thanks Dave. I have 38 scaletrax switches on my table (layout is 25x23 Z4000, DCS TIU, MYH premier).

Mth switches controllers used to burn switch motor. So I tried atlas #56, then #57 deluxe, without success. I was looking around to change again the remote, when I just read your excellent mail about new switches motors with resettable breaker.

I have been ordered SIX switches motor to Mth parts department. The answer is always no part available, no ETA, since nine months.

Do you think I can find the new controller as a part, or not?

Then, is there any solution to  add two  leds  on the Mth Remote controller?

Thanks for answering

I can read English, much more better than writing

I leave in Paris France

Dave Hikel posted:

Hi All,

As many of you know, MTH ScaleTrax #4 and #6 switches have been out of stock for quite some time. Some have questioned MTH’s commitment to a product line aimed at Hi-Rail and 3RS modelers when the most realistic switches in the line were no where to be found. However, it’s precisely MTH’s commitment to ScaleTrax that lead to the long production delay. And, to tell the truth, as MTH pointed out on the new Manufacturer’s Forum, it’s partly my fault.

Several years ago when the stock of original production ScaleTrax #4 and #6 switches started to run low, MTH asked me to catalog all the quality control and design issues that my crew and I had encountered. I don’t think Mike Wolf was expecting the length or level of detail of the problems we documented in our 13 page presentation. To his credit, Mike gave the entire document to the production team and instructed them to fix everything!

My crew and I have built several ScaleTrax layouts with hundreds of #4 and #6 switches. I’ve shared with all of you both the advantages of ScaleTrax and the problems we’ve found here on the forum, in an article in run 251 of OGR, and in clinics I have given in the MTH booth at the York Meet. Now that we have new production switches I thought it would be interesting to take a look at the changes that were made.

This discussion will use several terms to describe particular switch components that may be unfamiliar to some. Here’s a little switch anatomy diagram I made a few years back…

 

The most common problem with first generation ScaleTrax switches was a loss of insulation between the metal frog and the adjacent rails; potentially leading to short circuits when a train traversed the switch.   The quality control on the first generation ScaleTrax switches left a lot to be desired. Often one or both of the closure rails made contact with the frog. Additionally, the stock rails leading out of the frog were never designed to be insulated. Insulating the stock rails from the frog is not necessary for safe operation through the switch, but it is a convenience for adding electric non-derailing or signaling. On original switches we added thin styrene shims between the frog and the four adjacent rails, and recommended MTH alter the mold to inject plastic to hold the gap. The new batch of switches does not have plastic in the gaps, but the quality control has been greatly improved. I inspected a dozen of the new switches and did not find a single offending gap.

 

A literal weak point of all original ScaleTrax switches was the throw bar.   The bar design included two plastic tabs that clipped on to the points.  It was not uncommon to damage one or more of these tabs if you tried to drill the throw bars for Tortoise switch machines or handled a switch without care.  As we recommended, MTH has redesigned the throw bar, replacing the plastic tabs with metal machine screws.

 

The process of applying electrical jumpers has also been changed. Some, though not all, electrical jumpers on first generation switches were applied to the rails before the plastic was injected into the mold for the ties. The idea was that the bare jumper wires would become encapsulated in plastic and would therefore be insulated from other switch components. Atlas attempted a similar design when they first introduced their 3-Rail O “21st Century” track in 1997. Both manufacturers encountered shorting problems when the bare wires would “float” to the surface. Approximately 2% of original #4 ScaleTrax switches had a jumper failure that connected center rail power to the frog, and 1% of original #6 switches failed when the center rail jumper contacted the diverging route closure rail.

 

The new design installs all the jumpers after the plastic is in place. This ensures proper insulation in every switch and makes it easier to remove a jumper when you want to isolate track power. The long center rail jumper on the through route even has a small screw so you can easily break the center rail connection.  Most importantly, the jumpers are a nice heavy gauge strip that can safely carry a LOT of current.

 

 

 

The most radical change of the new production run applies only to the #6 switches. The original switches had a design error that was only noticeable when running a few select locomotives. The pivot of the switch points on original #6’s was very close to the pickup roller path. Locomotives or cars with extra-wide rollers could contact the point and momentarily energize the point with center rail power. A direct short resulted if that moment of contact coincided with the back of a wheel rubbing against the point. The only locomotives I have found to date with exactly the wrong geometry to induce this problem are Atlas FM Erie Builts and Atlas C-628/630’s.

 

MTH has corrected this rare problem by shortening the points on the #6 switches and re-locating the pivot point away from the pickup roller path by one tie.

 

Improvements have also been made to the activation buttons and switch motors. ScaleTrax switches come with an excellent set of wires for hooking up to accessory power. The wire sets are pre-terminated with spade connectors that fit nicely under the mounting screws on both the switch motor and activation button. Each contact is held by a #2 phillips head screw inside the plastic case of the button or motor. However, the holes in the original case designs were only large enough for #1 or #0 screwdrivers. The holes have now been enlarged to accommodate #2 phillips screw drivers. Not all of the buttons and switch motors in my new shipment have the enlarged holes, so it appears that MTH is working through old stock of button and motor cases.

 

Probably the single most important improvement MTH has made is something you’ll never see. Inside each switch motor is a tiny little device that adds a LOT of safety. Each motor now has an automatic re-settable circuit breaker attached to the (+) terminal.

 

With original ScaleTrax switch motors it was important add electrical protection against a stuck activation button or inattentively leaning against your control panel. If power was applied to an original ScaleTrax switch motor continuously it generally didn’t draw enough current to trip the circuit breaker on a typical accessory power supply, but it did generate enough heat to melt the plastic case and/or burn surrounding scenery. With the addition of the resettable breaker, the motors are now protected from activation failures. It also allows you to safely add electric non-derailing without additional control hardware. One point of caution is still in order.   The breaker is only rated for 16 volts. Higher voltage could cause the breaker to fail with repeated tripping. If you run your switches off of track power and you run command control with 18 to 20 volts constantly on the track, you could wear out the breakers. Use an accessory power supply, such as the 14 volt accessory output on a Z-4000 or Z-1000, and you’ll be fine. The breaker will trip after roughly 5 seconds of continuous draw at 14 volts. The breaker will remain tripped until the short circuit is removed. After the short is removed, the breaker will reset in 3 seconds.

Hope some of you will find this information useful.

Hi Dave

I appreciate your post on MTH Scale Trax switches. I am currently building a small home layout and decided to use Scale Trax. I hope you or someone else can answer a couple of questions as this is my 1st time using Scale Trax.

1. The instructions MTH includes with the 031 switches does not show a wiring diagram for hooking the Remote Switch Control up to an AIU. It just shows the 3 wires (red, green & black) running from the Switch Motor to the top of the Remote Switch Control  and 2 wires (brown & black) running from the bottom of the Remote Switch Control  to a 14 V.A.C. transformer. I do want to wire that way since I would like manual control of the switches in certain situations. I will wire all my switches to a Terminal Block powered by a Z-1000 as recommended by MTH and Barry Broskowitz's book The DCS Companion. However I can find no diagrams that explain how to wire Switch Motors in parallel to the AIU for wireless remote control. I have the AIU cabled correctly to a TIU powered by a Z-4000 and am using a 50-1002 DCS handheld remote control. Do you know of a wiring diagram I can use to run the switch motors from either the manual or the remote controls at the same time?

2. If I do run parallel wires (red, green & black) from the Switch Motor to the AIU and operate them with the DCS remote does the AIU provide power to the Switch Motor from the TIU and Z-4000? or is power still provided from the Z-1000? 

I have been scratching my head for 3 days on this and do not want to burn out any switch motors by experimenting. Hopefully someone has already tackled this.ScaleTrax Switch Parallel

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Dave,

I'm building my first "real" layout in 40+ years and decided on Scale Trax, based on Rich Battista's fantastic layout and videos.  The track is beautiful and the description of the re-design is impressive, proving that MTH is committed to our hobby!

One small problem was revealed when I was about to place my first switch (per Rich's video) and discovered that the re-design did away with the holes in the throw bar to accommodate Atlas O under-table switch machines.  The throw bar is .150 inches wide and operating shaft is .086 inches in diameter.  That leaves only .032 inches of material on either side of a hole drilled to fit the operating shaft, precisely - if you get the hole in the middle of the throw bar.  I didn't even try.

I sacrificed several ties to experiment with setting the throw bar into a channel and then CA gluing it in place and it works.  It took some filing and scraping to fit the throw bar and keep the edges of the channel from hitting the 3rd rail, plus digging a shallow trough in the roadbed to clear the additional material on the bottom of the throw bar but that's prototype - I know.

The change from snaps to screws attaching the points to the throw bar is a good one, perhaps the next iteration can give us a heavier throw bar and holes to accommodate the Atlas switch machines.  Thanks, again, for your efforts!

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