New to me tmcc odyssey Mikado won't run

This is an older engine .  You may have to check to see if any of the boards got loose during shipping.  Also try (If your comfortable) removing the boards and reseating them. Sometimes there is corrosion on the pins.

@rrgeorge posted:

This is an older engine .  You may have to check to see if any of the boards got loose during shipping.  Also try (If your comfortable) removing the boards and reseating them. Sometimes there is corrosion on the pins.

This would be the boards in the engine correct, not the tender?

Yes in the engine - Sorry should have been a little clearer.

Ok, now I'm getting a bit suspicious.  Shouldn't there be another board attached here:

The R2LC is missing. Lionel has them.

Pete

Guess that's what I get for trusting folks on ebay.  Thanks for your help!

Despite the fact it was misrepresented, its still a great deal. That engine will hold its own in a tug of war with a BigBoy. It will kick sand in the face of three Legacy Mikados and push them off the tracks. Its a tank.

Send the picture to the seller, maybe he will cover the cost of the missing part.

Pete

I’ll agree with Pete on this one, you got a heck of a deal, even if it was misrepresented,.....everything Pete mentioned is true,....those are hands down the best Mike’s ever built,...they usually trade 2 to 3 times that price.....I’d try to get the seller to pitch in and help, if not, pick up a radio board, program it, and run it!...a lot of power in that Mikado,....I own that very locomotive, it’s a true brute!.

Pat

Yep,....you could also take a board out of another steam loco to test it.

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Yep,....you could also take a board out of another steam loco to test it.

Pat

Just pulled a board out of another one of my locos.  It is an R2LC - C11.  Would it be safe to test with this board?

You won’t blow anything up though it may not work correctly. Worth trying.

Pete

You guys are awesome!  Thanks so much!  The C11 worked.  I'm ordering an extra board now for my other train. 

You still want a C08 version for this engine. Did you try the C11 with the tender coupled? Not all radio boards work with wireless drawbars.

Pete

I went ahead and purchased the C08 board for this engine all the same. 

It does seem to be working just fine though with the C11 board.   I did try it with the tender and all functions appear to work well.  Crew talk, reverse light, forward light, smoke, all of the aux buttons on the controller, rear coupler.

I'll enjoy it with that board until the C08 arrives.  Once it does I'll put the C11 back in my old baby Berk and put the new C08 in the Mikado.

Thanks again everyone.  Made my day to get this running!  Officially the coolest train in my humble collection.

No collection is humble as long as it brings you happiness.

I wanted to add something to this thread.  I received the C08 board and tried it in my Mikado.  It would not run which confused me initially.  It would take a program code, but acted a bit odd, and would not run.  It would whistle sometimes, and other odd functions.

I put the C11 back in and its working great.  This has me curious so I did some research.

I found this thread https://ogrforum.com/...c-interchangeability which mentions that the C11 is for odyssey locos.  This is an odyssey which I assume is why the C08 will not work. 

Fortunately the C08 works in the baby Berkshire that I took the C11 out of.  So I'll just leave them swapped and run them that way.  Just thought this may be useful info for someone else so I'll leave it at that. 

Did you program in the feature code? Its 740 for this engine. Entered in program mode after you give it the engine ID number. Aux1 740.

Pete

I did do that.

Program mode

Engine 10 set

Engine 10 aux1 7 4 0

Power off and switch to run

It still ran erratically or not at all. most times I tried   I got headlight and signal lamps, and firebox, that's all.

To input the feature code omit the second Engine 10.

Eng 10 set

AUX1 740

Hold up...

The reset/restore code for that loco is 74, not 740. But that would only prevent the RailSounds in the tender from operating correctly... the loco would still perform OK with the incorrect 740 code.

The R2LC-C11 should work fine, but like the others have suggested above, it's never a bad idea to get the correct revision of a board if it's available.

TRW

@PaperTRW posted:

Hold up...

The reset/restore code for that loco is 74, not 740. But that would only prevent the RailSounds in the tender from operating correctly... the loco would still perform OK with the incorrect 740 code.

The R2LC-C11 should work fine, but like the others have suggested above, it's never a bad idea to get the correct revision of a board if it's available.

TRW

Interesting!  I had been following this process from the manual I downloaded... Pictured in this post.  Is perhaps 740 a misprint?  I may switch the boards back and try again at some point.

Also, is there a parts diagram somewhere of this engine that confirms which board was originally included?  I'm just curious if you all are referencing a parts manual that's available or if you are speaking from experience regarding c08 being correct?  (Not doubting anyone, just trying to learn)

Here is a link to the parts page. I had not seen a three digit AUX code before either. Maybe misprints as this is a very early Odyssey engine.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...74-a77d-b414421dfc14

Pete

I had not seen anything greater than 8, but it seems there are some special codes out there.  Here is a link:

http://thetraindoctor.com/reset.shtml

Loochy88 - FWIW I wholeheartedly agree with Pete and Pat's comment that at a price of $225 (for this Lionel engine which had a MSRP of $800) and with its pulling power, you definitely got a great deal!  Furthermore once the 'boards' issue is sorted out you'll still be way ahead of the game.

Good Luck!

@Loochy88 posted:

Interesting!  I had been following this process from the manual I downloaded... Pictured in this post.  Is perhaps 740 a misprint?  I may switch the boards back and try again at some point.

Also, is there a parts diagram somewhere of this engine that confirms which board was originally included?  I'm just curious if you all are referencing a parts manual that's available or if you are speaking from experience regarding c08 being correct?  (Not doubting anyone, just trying to learn)

It's a misprint. The 740 code is used for exactly two locomotives which contain the original, non-modular form of the AD20 board in the tender. The correct code for your Mikado is definitely 74.

I could have sworn that an illustrated parts break-down was completed for those locomotives, but I'm not finding it online. But there is a photographic record shown on the parts order page. I never trust these 100%, but that list is showing a R2LC-C08.

TRW

@PaperTRW posted:

The reset/restore code for that loco is 74, not 740. But that would only prevent the RailSounds in the tender from operating correctly... the loco would still perform OK with the incorrect 740 code.

I've re-thought this portion of my response. It's likely that having a 740 code in the R2LC would do more than preventing the tender sounds from operating correctly, as the DCDS necessary for movement also follows the serial commands.

The short version... pop your R2LC-C08 back into the Mikado, and restore/reset it to 74. I'm betting you'll be back in business.

TRW

Thanks guys, I just saw these replies.  I'll swap it back over one more time and see If it comes to life with the 74 code.