Ott Machine Services Stored Analog Steam Engine Sound System

Call me.

WoK

@Lou N posted:

Call me.

WoK

Do you have one Lou?

@BobbyD posted:

Do you have one Lou?

Bobby,

Thought for sure I had one.  Couldn't find it yesterday.  Will continue the search.

Lou

@Lou N posted:

Bobby,

Thought for sure I had one.  Couldn't find it yesterday.  Will continue the search.

Lou

Thanks Lou!

I'm pretty sure I have one of those kits- bought it a long time ago and never used it. Have to dig in my warehouse (spare bedroom). If I can find it the instructions should still be in the box-  then I will scan it and post it here.

-Mike

I have an email address and telephone number for Dave Ott if you run into a roadblock. I have the Depot Dispatcher along with its documentation and 1995 vintage Ott catalog.

I have a kit here, slightly different configuration, likely precedes yours (I think this one is from 1995 or so). For what it's worth, I sent you a scan of the instruction sheet. Check your email.

PD

I have one that I just came across but I need the diagram if anyone has it and cares to share.  It would be very appreciated thanks

I remembered that I had a takeout soundboard from a Williams UP Challenger I upgraded to TMCC and Railsounds. I also documented the wiring and function of the various pot adjustments.

I've just bench tested this to validate and used a 9V or a 3V coin cell to the blue wires input to simulate the DC voltage at the motor. The chuff also varies with the AC input voltage since this was meant to be in a conventional engine so there may be better and more detailed instructions on how chuff rate 1 and chuff rate 2 interact with the voltage. Also, while I just tested with an 8Ohm speaker, I think this was originally shipped with a 16 Ohm speaker?

More details:

DC input chuff enable blue wires is any DC voltage enables (tested with 3-9VDC)

Chuff rate 1 Counter Clockwise is slower, Clockwise is faster for a given input AC voltage

Chuff rate2 Counter Clockwise is faster, Clockwise is slower for a given input AC voltage

Master Volume and Chuff volume, Counter Clockwise is louder, Clockwise is quieter

How I found to adjust the chuff rate (official instructions might be different or more detailed):

Turn Chuff1 nearly full Counter Clockwise. This seems to be a fine adjustment of the rate.

Turn Chuff 2 to 3/4 Clockwise. This seems to set the starting voltage where chuffing begins.

Adjust your input AC voltage from the transformer to where the engine just begins to move.

Turn the Chuff 2 down Clockwise until chuffing is at a slow rate that roughly matches the appropriate speed.

Use the fine adjustment of Chuff 1 to increase chuff rate slightly (already was at minimum)

Make further adjustments as required up or down to get the starting point and rate correct as possible for your loco.

Update, it could be that chuff rate 1 and 2 are actually high speed and low speed adjustments? There is some crossover between the design that Williams used and OTT original kits.

https://ogrforum.com/...69#14804764779221769

Do the two blue wires go to a Reed switch on the tender?

I will be selling some Lionel locomotives here on the Forum for a family whose father died about 14 years ago and now the family is finally selling his trains.  His family knows almost nothing about them and I volunteered to help them.  I am absolutely receiving nothing from them for doing this.

One of his locomotives, a Lionel 18008, Reading Pacific has been retrofitted with an OMS Stored Analog Sound System.  I have never seen this system before.  Fortunately the instructions for operation were included in the box with the locomotive or I never would have figured out how it works.  The sounds are OK but certainly are not nearly as good as today’s systems.  It is interesting to note that both the bell and the whistle can be activated using only the whistle control from a conventional Lionel transformer.

In searching for some information about the sound system I came across this thread.  In case anyone is still interested I am attaching a copy of the Instruction Sheet.

@Smoothdogjake posted:

Do the two blue wires go to a Reed switch on the tender?

No, it will do NOTHING with a typical switch (between the 2 blue wires). It (the 2 blue wires) has to be a powered input because this is how it determines if the engine is still or moving based on this input. Again, this was tested- shorting the 2 blue leads together momentarily or pulsed does NOTHING when simulating a typical reed, hall effect, or mechanical contact. It is expecting a voltage (AC or DC) to indicate that the engine is simply moving VS stopped sitting idle. Applying as little as 3V DC from a coin cell could enable chuff (did not try a 1.5V battery).

Excerpt from the instructions explains the usage or bypassing to track power to basically always be on.

@CArolina Shagger posted:

  In case anyone is still interested I am attaching a copy of the Instruction Sheet.

Thanks, that copy of the official instructions is greatly appreciated.

I knew Dave Ott in his HEY DAYS.  Whan I had my Train Store, I used to buy products from him.  His operation was in his basement. He had Neighbor Ladies assembling his Boards. This is back in the 90's. He finally gave it up and was given a job at a local school as Head Custodian!!

Thats my Story & Im sticking to it!!

FREDSTRAINS