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Kinda proud of this one--I'm modelling a PRR ND caboose, which is a bit unusual (besides being a bobber) in that the floor extends about a foot further than the roof on both ends.  To accommodate this, the tops of the ladders have a 90 degree bend to connect to the roof.  It's distinctive enough and obvious enough that it has to be modeled.

First thought was soldered wire, but either my equipment or my skill level (probably the latter) was not up to it, so I turned to the printer.  But how to get that bend?

PLA is thermo-plastic, so I printed it flat and then heated the critical parts of the print with an electric wood burning tool, basically a soldering iron with a flat tip, that I had acquired in a  previous life, and formed the ends around a 1/4" dowel.  Because the section was so small (1.5mm square) I was able to do it using my fingers with out raising any blisters.

Perhaps others may find the process useful.  Any conic section could be shaped this way as long as it was not too thick and it could eliminate messy supports in the print.

The first photo is the part as printed, the second is after bending.  The two transverse straps are only .5 mm and there just to encourage buildplate adhesion.  The top of the intermediate one marks the beginning of the curves.

end iron 2

end iron1

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  • end iron1
Last edited by Rich Melvin
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Great application for the 3D printer, probably way simpler than screwing around with solder and wire.

@Greg2 posted:

PLA is thermo-plastic, so I printed it flat and then heated the critical parts of the print with an electric wood burning tool, basically a soldering iron with a flat tip, that I had acquired in a  previous life, and formed the ends around a 1/4" dowel.

A perfect way that's probably easier to deal with is with a heat gun.  I've tinkered with bending PLA and it works very well with just a little heat.  It doesn't take much heat at all to form PLA.

BillYo314--No, I held the iron about 1/16" away from the print.  Too close and it just shrivels up (please  don't ask how i know this).  I printed 6 and got 2 good ones, but they didn't take much time or material.

gunrunnerjohn--A heat gun would surely work, but I don't have one.  Also, the iron kept the heat more localized, he said, rationalizing.

@Greg2 very nice. I'll keep this in mind. I have a caboose project coming up and will likely need these techniques.

@AlanRail Resin printers might be able to print those curved ends but FDM would require supports in this case and that isn't likely to come out well anyway given the size. I'm planning to experiment with a much smaller nozzle once I rebuild the one printer I have. Maybe then it could be done.

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