Postwar tenders part 2

If the whistle works when you push the button part way, but not when you push it in all the way, there are two likely causes:

If

1 - the train isn't drawing enough current. The amount of DC bias generated when the whistle button is pressed in all the way is load dependent. You can increase the load by adding more cars, or putting some light bulbs wired in parallel to the track.

2 - there is a defect in the transformer.

 

If other whistling tenders or horns are fine, then it's not likely to be the transformer.
If you have the same problem with all of your whistling tenders, then I'd look at the contacts on the whistle switch, and the resistor.
I suppose that the rectifier disk could be weak, but I have not seen that in all the years I've been repairing trains. They are either good, or bad.

I have noticed in the past that all whistles work better when a larger consist is going and the transformer and train are working hard. Guess I've never understood or thought of why.

So to effectively test a whistle tender it should be under those conditions, not just sitting on a chunk of track? Actually I should say, to test the solenoid. I know how to just test the whistle motor's functionality with leads.

How about the impeller removal issue?

I found my old gang car parts box. The field winding is worse on that one. My father was rushed 5 hrs to Milwaukee a few days ago for heart issues. Going to get him today. I am going to try to reattach the field wire when I get home tomorrow. Nothing to lose on it. May as well try and learn.

On a scary side note. I got a 2671w tender on an online auction last winter. Been sitting on the counter since, where lots of flies hang out because of the windows. Worked on it yesterday. Removed the shell and I believe I squashed what was a traveling black widow spider.  It was one I've never seen in Upper Michigan before. Although hard to see after squashing, it looked to have the design on it's belly.

 

quote:

So to effectively test a whistle tender it should be under those conditions, not just sitting on a chunk of track? Actually I should say, to test the solenoid. I know how to just test the whistle motor's functionality with leads.

 

Older Lionel Test benches had a whistle mechanism inside the case to test transformer and stand-alone whistle controls. There was an extra coil wired in parallel to put an extra load on the item being tested.

So yes, it is not unusual for the whistle to blow only when the whistle control is pressed in part way when it is the only load on the transformer.

As far as the whistle impeller goes:

If you really need to remove the impeller, to can be done by driving out the shaft with a pin punch. But they sometimes break, and the knurling on the shaft will score the bearing. So don't do it unless you really need to.
You should be able to get some oil on that bearing with a needlepoint oiler. Try going from the armature side, between the poles. That is how I generally do it.

Or just, tap the shaft out a bit (not really recommended by me), and then use your needlepoint oiler.  You would still have the danger of breaking the impeller, and then you have to move it back to its original position. There isn't a lot of slack in where it can be. too far out, and it will hit the whistle chamber. Too close, and the motor will bind.

 

One of the items I keep on hand are whistle impellers. But I have not used one in quite awhile.

The only reason I figured I needed to get lube down there is one of my old dry tenders just won't quit crying. The top is lubed well. Any more and I'll foul the freshly cleaned brushes and armature face.

It's not the sound of a wobble and the impeller hitting. It's dry bearing squeal.
I need to get a needle point oiler now that I'm getting back to trains. I used to have all that stuff, but long gone.

I won't try to remove the impeller. You know that old brittle plastic is going to break. Not worth it. I'll try harder to lube from the top.

 

quote:

 I am going to try to reattach the field wire when I get home tomorrow. Nothing to lose on it. May as well try and learn.

 

If there is a small stub left this is how I do it:

 

Use a knife to scrape away some of the insulation.

Use something with a fine tip to bend the very (bare) end into a hook.

Prepare the wire to be added the same way. (I use wire taken off a damaged e-unit coil or another damaged field)

Join the hooks together and squeeze them shut.

Test for continuity.

Solder hooks together.

Slip a piece of tubing over the joint.

(I often will strip a long piece of insulation from a piece of heavier gauge wire to use for that tubing. Not all insulation is the same. For this application, I'd take some insulation from a piece of Super-Flex wire)

 

For a knife, I use an xacto #1 handle with a number 11 blade.

I scrape, not cut.

I have some very fine pliers and tweezers to make the hooks.

Don't scrape the insulation all the way up to the metal field. The wire has to be insulated from the field.