Probably dead PS2 3V Board, options?

send me an email! I can help you sometimes the boards can be repaired send me an email is in my profile! as far as no sound you my have blown the audio chip when you had a track short that can happen just from a track short! you  might try a factory conventional reset

check your email

PS-2 3V boards can be evaluate and repaired, your sounds more complicated with motion issues too.  G

MTH has a replacement board for PS2 3volt, it is only sold to authorized service tecs.  Retail prize on board is $230.00 plus a Connector kit for $8..00. Once the board is mounted install plugs and load a sound file.  the board is designed to use the same plugs. I did  a Dash 8  one gauge this morning.  It gives you a PS3 board with a ps2-3volt adapter board so no wiring,unless you need to extend a plug.   Plus you can put new sound files as well.  See if there is a local tec who would be interested in doing it.

I wouldn't go that route until you prove the 3V is dead.  I have repaired plenty of 3V boards at 1/6 the cost of a PS-32 replacement.   G

Yes you can and so have I   always make sure the board is non repairable.   

    This engine is from 2008 and you don't know if the battery is good, unless you have tested it when it was running with sound. If the battery is low, a factory reset will not take. And being the engine has no sound, it is hard to tell if the sounds continue for 6 to 7 seconds after track power is cut-off by the transformer.

     It doesn't seem to me the board is dead when some things are responding to the remote. De-railments can lock the engine in forward and have loss of sound.

While true a reset will not take to memory with bad battery, it will restore functions if performed.  So sound and motion should come back if a DCS feature reset is performed, or even a conventional reset.  If not, most likely the audio died.  Not uncommon.  Also sounds like a motor fet short since he stated it takes off even in DCS.  Even if locked in forward it should have had speed control, since he said swapping tenders had the engine run right.  WILL ALSO SAY, doing that is dangerous unless they are similar engines.  Mux versus non Mux, 5V verses 3V, lots of ways to mess a working board up swapping tenders.  G

GGG,

Thanks, It's good to know the resets work that way. I've never tried a reset with a dead or low battery to know that and I don't remember that being discussed on the forum, though I may have missed it.

Thanks all for the information, I have to ponder the best course on this. You all are awesome.

George (GGG) has fixed at least 3 that I can remember of the 3V boards....I’m always shocked at how inexpensive the cost is compared to replacing.......I’m speaking from real examples.....the three that I can think of off the top of my head are all proven performers to this date........I can’t thank George enough.....he does a heck of good job!...........Pat

If you already have the tender opened up because you checked on the battery or whatever, consider if you feel comfortable removing the PS2-3V board-pair.  Typically requires removing a handful of cable/connectors and maybe a screwdriver but not any soldering.  The point is if you have to ship it, the board pair weighs only a few ounces whereas the engine-tender weighs many pounds.  You'd have to confirm with your repair guy whether they recommend this but given the symptoms it sounds to me like the problem is in the board-pair itself.  MTH techs have a tool that tests the board-pair itself so they would remove the board-pair anyway as the first step, then use their tester tool to diagnose the problem, repair it, then confirm the repair using the tester tool before re-installing.  Just an option since you asked!

Yes, sending just the board is how many do it.  G

GGG, George is the man. He also did a few of my boards for me and the got back to me sooner than I had expected.