Skip to main content

Hello All,

I'm having a problem with my WP 2355 rear motor. I've had it to a reputable repair shop twice (same shop) and both times it was returned to me with the problem unsolved, although both times they said it was.

The front motor runs fine. The rear motor will not start (run) until the handle on my Postwar ZW is at full power; on the lead-up to full power the front motor pulls the unit (grudgingly) and then the unit moves when the rear motor starts. The problem exists in both forward and reverse. I cannot tell if the rear motor is running at the same speed as the front motor when it does run.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts you may have for a fix.

Regards,

Bob

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

@Train Nut posted:

Possibly the bearing blocks are in backwards. The holes in the bearing blocks are offset. They're not in the dead center. Possibly somebody pput them in backwards.

Thanks for the suggestion, TN. I took the truck off and reversed both bearing blocks. Tried rolling the truck by itself on the track and the wheels wouldn't turn. I put the blocks back to their original position and the truck rolled freely on the track. While the blocks were out I noticed that the bearing in one block looked like it was worn (almost looked like there was a hole starting in it). I think I'll replace the bearing and possibly the block as the bearing did not want to come out with a casual attempt to remove it. Tomorrow I'll attack it with a little more vigor; I've been told one can fix anything with a big enough hammer. 

Bob

@bluelinec4 posted:

I had the same thing on on an EL f3  Its the truck   That run of F3's all had the same problem   You can mess with it but I would suggest changing the truck    Gears on the shaft come loose and bing against the frame

Thanks for your idea, blueline. At this point I'm going to replace a bearing (and possibly the bearing block as per my response to Trian Nut above). If that doesn't work the truck is next.

Bob

@ADCX Rob posted:

Sometimes it's as simple as the double worm shaft shifting, allowing the large worm shaft gear to interfere with the brass truck frame cover. The bearing blocks being worn or the ball inside having shifted requires new blocks or sometimes just shimming enough to keep the shaft from moving fore & aft.

Thanks, Rob. I'm going to the Allentown Train Show this weekend and should be able to get new blocks and ball bearings there.

Bob

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×