PRR K4 with long haul tender comes with dummy o gauge coupler

Odd, someone on the 3 rail scale forum would complain about having a "scale" coupler.

You certainly can swap out the scale coupler for the dummy lobster claw, as I've done it on my K4 with long haul tender. There's just a small screw you have to remove to slide the scale coupler out. I think it's that brass-looking piece above the coupler in your picture. It's kind of a pain to get to, from what I remember.

A couple of different fixed claws designed to allow for a double header.  Assuming speed control, etc. work for a steam double header. 

Another coupling method if limited curves allow for movement. 

Ahhh…. a true lash-up for Rich! 

( & I've done that many times.)

Mark Diff posted:

Odd, someone on the 3 rail scale forum would complain about having a "scale" coupler.

Yeah the main reason why I want to do the swap is because I have a lionmaster challenger and I want to double head them 

Mike CT posted:

 

A couple of different fixed claws designed to allow for a double header.  Assuming speed control, etc. work for a steam double header. 

Another coupling method if limited curves allow for movement. 

I have tried the but they just want to hook up 

Slugger posted:

You certainly can swap out the scale coupler for the dummy lobster claw, as I've done it on my K4 with long haul tender. There's just a small screw you have to remove to slide the scale coupler out. I think it's that brass-looking piece above the coupler in your picture. It's kind of a pain to get to, from what I remember.

So have you tried this?  In your photo it looks like a hex head under the coupler lift bar.  If not it there should be a small screw on the underside of that.

Gene Anstine

grfd59 posted:

Slugger posted:

You certainly can swap out the scale coupler for the dummy lobster claw, as I've done it on my K4 with long haul tender. There's just a small screw you have to remove to slide the scale coupler out. I think it's that brass-looking piece above the coupler in your picture. It's kind of a pain to get to, from what I remember.

So have you tried this?  In your photo it looks like a hex head under the coupler lift bar.  If not it there should be a small screw on the underside of that.

Here are pics from under sorry for the bad picture using my Iphone 6

Gene is correct: there is a hex bolt underneath the coupler lift bar that needs to be removed. The dummy scale coupler slides out then.

Slugger posted:

Gene is correct: there is a hex bolt underneath the coupler lift bar that needs to be removed. The dummy scale coupler slides out then.

Ok I'll see what I can do I'll ask for help if needed,

Slugger posted:

Gene is correct: there is a hex bolt underneath the coupler lift bar that needs to be removed. The dummy scale coupler slides out then.

ok so I tried removing the dummy scale but the this one part ( look at the circled part) due to the curvature makes it a little pesky. 

Not sure what you mean that the curved part is causing a problem.  The coupler should pull out the front (towards the top of your photo).  I'm not sure how the coupler cut lever is attached to coupler or if it is (opposite side from uncoupling pin).

Gene Anstine

grfd59 posted:

Not sure what you mean that the curved part is causing a problem.  The coupler should pull out the front (towards the top of your photo).  I'm not sure how the coupler cut lever is attached to coupler or if it is (opposite side from uncoupling pin).

Gene Anstine

hmm I'll try again 

grfd59 posted:

Not sure what you mean that the curved part is causing a problem.  The coupler should pull out the front (towards the top of your photo).  I'm not sure how the coupler cut lever is attached to coupler or if it is (opposite side from uncoupling pin).

Gene Anstine

Well I tried again and again still no luck do I need a special screw driver I know I’m being confusing 

Yes. The link in the chain is connected to the air hose wire. You have to remove the connecting chain to slide the coupler out . Sometimes I just swing the scale coupler on top of the pilot for ease of reassembly. 

J Daddy posted:

Yes. The link in the chain is connected to the air hose wire. You have to remove the connecting chain to slide the coupler out 

Like this ?

Yes, now take the hex head screw out on the top.  Slide out the coupler and put the new one in.

Gene Anstine

grfd59 posted:

Yes, now take the hex head screw out on the top.  Slide out the coupler and put the new one in.

Gene Anstine

Ok. Wait do I need a spacial screw driver or go on the underside of the pilot?

PRR_railfan posted:

grfd59 posted:

Yes, now take the hex head screw out on the top.  Slide out the coupler and put the new one in.

Gene Anstine

Ok. Wait do I need a spacial screw driver or go on the underside of the pilot?

The photo you posted, above, shows a hex-nut type of fastener. Thus, hex wrench, or a very small adjustable open-end wrench should loosen/remove that hex-nut shown in your photo. A "screw driver" will not fit/work.

Hot Water posted:

PRR_railfan posted:

grfd59 posted:

Yes, now take the hex head screw out on the top.  Slide out the coupler and put the new one in.

Gene Anstine

Ok. Wait do I need a spacial screw driver or go on the underside of the pilot?

The photo you posted, above, shows a hex-nut type of fastener. Thus, hex wrench, or a very small adjustable open-end wrench should loosen/remove that hex-nut shown in your photo. A "screw driver" will not fit/work.

Good news after waiting a while I got the correct tool my K4s has a o gauge coupler 

You can swap anything for anything. This is model railroading.   

Glad you were able to get it swapped. I'm just curious if that screw is the same size as the drive rod screws? Lionel use to supply the tool to fit them.

Doug