Originally Posted by Chugman:
I bought a Craftsman 10" band saw today and am anxious to try it out. Thanks again for all the great ideas and comments.
Art
Art:
A few tips from an old wood worker:
- If you are going to use a fence first correct for blade drift so the fence is set at the correct angle. The instruction manual will describe the process.
- Setting up the guides and rollers is critical and should be checked often.
- Set the blade guide mechanism as close to the top of the cut as you can to avoid blade deflection.
- invest in a set of graphite blade guides and follow the instructions on placement.
- besides the obvious don't set the blade too loose it is also a good idea not to over tighten the blade. Don't rely on the scale on the machine to set the blade tightness. The instruction manual should tell you the proper deflection to determine the right tension on the blade.
- besides the correct number and type of teeth also think about a narrow blade if you are going to cut curves ( I cut circles on my machine all the time) and a wider blade for straight cuts. The wider blade will drift a lot less through the cut than a thinner one and don't be surprised if the cut is not perfectly straight even when using a fence.
- don't need to buy an expensive circle cutting jig. You can build one out of plywood and a brass or wood dowel in about 5 minutes. Which reminds me it would also be a good idea to buy a blade that will cut plywood and hardboard (fixtures/jigs, roofs, bases etc).
Good Luck
Joe
PS - With the above said I tend agree with Stu Gralnik wrt to using a table saw. I have a Delta Unisaw (overkill for Model railroading but a great saw for woodworking). I always make straight cuts on the table saw and curve cuts/circles on the band saw mostly because after 30 years I still don't know had to get a nice straight cut on flat stock using the bandsaw.