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Modeling a road that not much is available for involves a lot of re lettering and re numbering. Head and back up lights were always a stumbling block. Most times I just re numbered the plate under the light and just painted over the lighted boards. At the time little decals and I didn’t get along. My last purchase was a Rutland 10 Wheeler #79. Figures I already did a 79 and would have to change it out. I picked up these decal number boards from Tichy Train Group. I believe I used the S scale ones for this. If you look long enough you can find a number you can use as they are all random. Luckily the Rutland uses almost all 2 digit ones. Just a matter of scraping down to the clear lens and applying like any other decal. Best part is. The number will light up. You may have to hit the edges with a fine brush as the light will bleed through. A few coats of gloss and it’s good to go.

79D57290-2085-4A83-A3FE-3E3521369EC1

The other thing they carry is builders plates. The Rutlands 4-6-0’s were built by Alco. I apologize to any Northern Pacific fans out there. I re did 3 of them into Rutlands. Mainly because they had the correct white striping. The Baldwin plates always bugged me. I didn’t want to pry what was there out and then attempt to fill the hole in. I just went over what was there. From normal viewing they look fine. Nobody would probably ever point it out anyways. The only problem. Is you buy a sheet with numerous plates and only get to use 2.

46D83533-F922-493A-9584-CADAEF1B47A5

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Last edited by Dave_C
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For number boards, I use Microsoft Word and print white on black numbers of the correct size.  I then cut out the numbers and use canopy glue (Tester's Clear Parts Cement) to stick them to the previous plastic that I've removed the numbers from.  A couple coats of clearcoat and I have new numbers.   The nice part is, I have hundreds of fonts to pick from, so it's usually possible to get close enough to the "correct" font.  This works for headlights and steam or diesel number boards.

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