Remote Ross switches

Their info says "Use 18 gauge wire between included controller and switch machine". It would appear that he 10 ft you need is not a problem. Somebody will be along shortly to clarify.

You'll need to make up 10' cables that go between the DZ-1000 switch machine and whichever controller you will be using, for example the DZ-1002P.  Since the power draw is very low, Cat 5 or similar cable can be used for the control wires.

Maybe this will help.  Click image to expand.

Additional instructions are available on the Z-Stuff website here> DZ-1000 Switch Machine w/ DZ-1002P Remote Controller

So I guess what I would get in the box would be the switch, switch engine, and switch controller. I am responsible for providing the wire. Sound like I have it right? I have some old Lionel switches that have wires coming out of the controllers already. I am slowly, but surely updating my knowledge.

What comes in the box depends upon whether you buy used or new. If you buy new, there are options for what to buy with your switch and whether it's pre-wired for non-derail operation.  EDIT [The latter option also requires a relay, such as the Z-Stuff DZ-1008.  See follow-up reply below.]

Ross also sells custom foam roadbed for each type of switch.  I would encourage you to explore the Ross and Z-Stuff websites.

Maybe start here> http://rossswitches.com/switches.aspx

If you still have unanswered product questions, you could email: steve@rossswitches.com

My original plan was to get a 072/096 curved switch, Ross ready with the DZ1000 switch engine. I briefly had some conversations with Steve at Ross. Even though I did not mention a particular product, I did let him know that I have 3 rail tubular. He mentioned the Ross bed for under the switch to bring its height up. Needing the relay switch is new to me. Thanks for that info. I suppose running my post war engines through that switch makes a relay more important. I hadn’t thought about the used switch option before. I may have to at least explore that. I will also look at the Z stuff website. Thanks for all the advice.

@TrainNewby posted:

My original plan was to get a 072/096 curved switch, Ross ready with the DZ1000 switch engine. I briefly had some conversations with Steve at Ross. Even though I did not mention a particular product, I did let him know that I have 3 rail tubular. He mentioned the Ross bed for under the switch to bring its height up. Needing the relay switch is new to me. Thanks for that info. I suppose running my post war engines through that switch makes a relay more important. I hadn’t thought about the used switch option before. I may have to at least explore that. I will also look at the Z stuff website. Thanks for all the advice.

You can wire for derailing without the relay and using the DZ-1000 that comes with the switch, as you mentioned above buying as one set from Ross. BTW I recommend this approach, the switch machine comes installed on the switch track which is helpful. Anyway, for derailing you just need to solder wires to the track per the directions and wire them in with the different switch wires. Isn't very complex, just make sure you create block sections with that section of track using an isolated pin.

Check out this video

@ArtsModelTrains  You are correct that the DZ-1000 can handle the non-derail control if wired like is shown in the instructions I posted above.

Apologies for my late night error.  I said non-derail, but was actually thinking of using a DZ-1008 relay to control which center rails are powered, depending on turnout position.  In some cases, selectively powering either the through or divergent center rail can be helpful.

On a Double Crossover, the relay can selectively provide power to pairs of the center diamond rails.  Some trains with either too few pick-up rollers or short spacing between pick-up rollers need this.

Note that where the DZ-1008's White and Gray wires connect was unclear in the instructions shown on the Ross Site.  Here, I added the red numbers where the DZ-1008's White and Gray wires connect to the 175 diamond.

There is definitely more to consider when putting in a switch than plugging it into some track and hooking up a switch controller. As I said above, I am used to using some old Lionel (1950's) switches that run off of track power. Just hook up the controller and away you go. So this is a definite learning curve. I guess some of the fun is figuring out all these details so in the end it all works the way you want. It kind of sounds like using the DZ1008 relay might be the best way to go for my first time. Once I get a little experience under my belt then perhaps I can explore other options. It sounds like he relay is already designed to work with the DZ1000 switch machine. Simple is best at this point. Thanks for all your help with the information and diagrams. Any other advice will always be welcome.