I am purchasing two Corgi 1/50 fire trucks. They're beauties, but I'd really like to remove the gold lettering on the hood and door, without marring the paint job.
Has anyone attempted it?
Thanks
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Nail polish. I have removed the lettering from a number of diecasts with this. You want the q tip wet, not just damp. I have found running it across in one direction with a wiping motion best. You don't want to rub a lot, if it doesn't come off quick, let it dry completly and then do it again. The base color will soften if you keep it wet too long, and you will have a mess, (done that). But the lettering and graphics are very thin so they usually come off easily. If you have a cheap die cast you might want to experiment on that to get the technique down.
Valuable info...thanks! So many of these are unuseable because they are not available unlettered, and have some generic large city of them.
I like and use lacquer thinner and a q-tip. I do it all the time with my 1/24 die cast. Test it on the underside first. Trick is to make it fast and not rub excessively. The tampo is just stamped ink....the paint is baked coating so 99.9% of the time it works. Just test as always.
Nail polish. I have removed the lettering from a number of diecasts with this. You want the q tip wet, not just damp. I have found running it across in one direction with a wiping motion best. You don't want to rub a lot, if it doesn't come off quick, let it dry completly and then do it again. The base color will soften if you keep it wet too long, and you will have a mess, (done that). But the lettering and graphics are very thin so they usually come off easily. If you have a cheap die cast you might want to experiment on that to get the technique down.
Not sure of the high gloss.
But on freight cars I have used the Mr. Clean magic eraser that some have suggested.\Works well but takes the sheen off.
When new decals put on a clear coat made it look good.
Nail polish. I have removed the lettering from a number of diecasts with this. You want the q tip wet, not just damp. I have found running it across in one direction with a wiping motion best. You don't want to rub a lot, if it doesn't come off quick, let it dry completly and then do it again. The base color will soften if you keep it wet too long, and you will have a mess, (done that). But the lettering and graphics are very thin so they usually come off easily. If you have a cheap die cast you might want to experiment on that to get the technique down.
Yes REMOVER might work better........................(my bad)...................
The key is not to rub too much. Keep the q tip, or tip of paper towel clean. IE: make one pass and rotate to a clean spot on the q tip. That way you don't smear and transfer the paint you are trying to remove to another location. I haven't tried the magic eraser on die casts. I have used it elsewhere with good results though.
I did it just an hour ago, removed the Carolina text&logo on the front of this trailer, so I could mount the refrigeration unit I made for it ( the lettering was wider than the refrig unit would be when mounted and would have looked weird sticking out behind it on each side.
Goo Gone, a paper towel, and not even 60 seconds . . .
EDIT: Corgi could use different paints, so I'd test anything like Goo Gone, etc., in an out of site place on the paint. I've never had a problem with Goo Gone on Corgi models - it always removes the graphics and such quickly but never mars the paint - I have had some problems with cheap eastern European models, yes, but not Corgi. But i's quick and easy to test --
Poly Scale ELO works and is safe.
Pete
How about, Micro-Sol or Solva-Set. Most use these when decals are being applied. They work when wanting to remove decals, also. You want to apply and allow to set for awhile.
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