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Now i know why you see so few restored tank cars, they are a bear to disassemble and reassemble. If it wasn't that i had a small snake light from Harbor freight i never would have got this back together. i put the light inside the tank so i could see to bend tabs. At any rate the final product came out pretty good. This was a terra cotta junker from Ebay .  The paint was mixed from Rustoleum and i printed the shell logos on a laser printer.SHELL TANK 2SHELL TANK 3SHELL TANKs-l500

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  • SHELL TANK 2
  • SHELL TANK 3
  • SHELL TANK
  • s-l500
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Pete in Kansas posted:

What I've been using for clear coat lately helps prevent scratches during assembly. I'm using rustoleum automotive clear coat. It comes in a quart can and costs about $22/ can from Amazon. This stuff dries quickly and is hard as a rock. 

I have been thinking about trying this clearcoat. A few questions.....How are you thinning and what pressure are you using with your airbrush? Your pics look great. But still cant quite tell if the finish is a high gloss or more of a satiny finish.

jini5 posted:
Pete in Kansas posted:

What I've been using for clear coat lately helps prevent scratches during assembly. I'm using rustoleum automotive clear coat. It comes in a quart can and costs about $22/ can from Amazon. This stuff dries quickly and is hard as a rock. 

I have been thinking about trying this clearcoat. A few questions.....How are you thinning and what pressure are you using with your airbrush? Your pics look great. But still cant quite tell if the finish is a high gloss or more of a satiny finish.

I use it straight from the can with no thinner ( it already is very thin) and spray it at 40 PSI from a Paasche Model H Airbrush. If you put it on thick is comes out a very nice High Gloss, give it a finer spray and you'll get a satin finish. 

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