RMT & Zinc Pest?

That looks more like defective casting, I don't think they're old enough to really have zinc pest.  Try a standard Lionel coupler knuckle there.

Luther

Had same problem on 2 RMT Hooker 2 bay hoppers. Couplers just fell apart. Same part, the knuckle, as you show. No easy way to get the trucks off that I can see. If someone knows how to replace the trucks on the covered hopper, which look like KMT/Kusan/K-Line design, I too would be interested. I thought about drilling a hole inside the hopper above the screw so I could get to the screw that holds the truck on but thought maybe there is a better way.

I tried emailing RMT a while back looking for a replacement reversing board for a Beep but never got a reply so I figured RMT does not support their products and will just have to deal with it. Too bad, as I like their products and have a few.

Dean

I don't take the truck off a car to replace the knuckles, I do it on the car.

Not sure if we can get a replacement knuckle to repair the RMT truck so other option would be to replace whole truck assembly. Maybe Lionel replacement knuckle would work and then there would be no need to remove the truck.

Dean

I'd give the Lionel one a shot.  Since the trucks are the K-Line design, maybe buy K-Line knuckles.

@gunrunnerjohn - thanks for the suggestion to look at Lionel (or Kline) knuckles - definitely worth a shot.

@PW53inVa - agree that a straight replacement from RMT would have been "easier" - just swap the trucks.  If a Kline or Lionel knuckle works then replacing just the knuckle is easy without a need to remove the truck.  Hopefully the rest of the truck does not disintegrate over time .  I like the cars - getting them back in operation will be good.

Thanks!

- Luther

@Luther Stanton posted:

Has anyone experienced what appears to be zinc pest issues with RMT rolling stock?  I have a significant number of items going back a number of years.  So far I have had two couplers disintegrate on me - one was a Bethlehem Steel depressed flat car and another was a Jersey Central covered hopper.

I have tried to contact RMT twice to see if replacement trucks were available but the emails were not answered.  On the covered hopper, I am not even sure how to get the truck off - could possibly replace the knuckle - I have a press and tools - not sure if the knuckle is a post war type I could get from a parts supplier.

Hopefully the damage / loss will be limited to these two items.  I am hesitant to purchase anything else from RMT.

Thanks all for responding to OP's thread.  I have the same flat cars, same problems, & the same no response issues.  I will try other truck manufacturers.   D.

I was able to get to Henning’s at lunch and picked up a few knuckles.  A quick test fit this evening was successful!

Part number for the knuckle is 480-8.

Luther

Nice, I thought they might work for those.

@Luther Stanton posted:

I was able to get to Henning’s at lunch and picked up a few knuckles.  A quick test fit this evening was successful!

Part number for the knuckle is 480-8.

Luther

This is good news.  Thanks for posting your results.    D.

Luther - Thanks for sharing. I will order some of these and give it a try. I have two RMT Hooker hoppers I would like to get back in action.

Dean

Did anyone figure how to get to the truck screw on a RMT 2 bay hopper for replacement? I had the same knuckle breakage. I hate it when I get stumped!

Rich

Why are you taking the truck off?

The knuckle is broken off which seems to be common if this thread is any indication. My intention is to replace both trucks, but honestly John, I can’t figure how to reach the truck screw. I had an easier time with a Rubik’s cube. Note the pics. One is of the broken coupler and the mounting screw deep under the car. In another pic the view is of a couple of screw(?) sleeves with no bottom access or top (see 3rd photo). And note the slight indentations inside the hopper. The two posts in the car center do not have screws. The only thing I can figure is both hatch door assemblies need to be removed and the entire chassis pried from the car body. I just thought I’d check the forum before applying any force.

I have some of the RMT hoppers here, but I can't lay my hands on them right now.  FWIW, your pictures didn't make it.

Let’s try again.

Looks like this plate should come off, I know that's similar to how some Lionel cars come apart.  I normally just look for any accessible screws.

Thanks John. I went with what I previously quoted:

“The only thing I can figure is both hatch door assemblies need to be removed and the entire chassis pried from the car body.”

I recommend, for anyone who needs to do this, use care when removing the hatch assemblies. Once they are off, the center beam including trucks is one piece that is force fitted on each end (where John provided the red arrows). Easy sailing at that point!

Rich