Does anyone have suggestions for super-elevating (I think that is the term) O-27 and O-31 tubular track? Thanks, Rick
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Ice cream sticks. I found that just one under the outside ties works very well. With paint and ballast, no one will know they are there. You can get a bag full for cheap at a craft store.
I use standard toothpicks to create super elevation.
Neal Jeter
I have used foam weather stripping and n scale cork road bed.
Just be aware that super elevation looks better than it works for toy trains. The critical thing is how well designed the easements are.
Door shims, cut off what you don't need.
Rusty
USE 14 gauge black wire, easy to lay works like a dream.
Jack
@RoyBoy posted:Just be aware that super elevation looks better than it works for toy trains. The critical thing is how well designed the easements are.
The transition is key. It should ideally start tilting on the straight to allow all wheels to remain planted; with long steam especially you'll end up tri-podding and tilting with a wheel in the air. (look at how many rollercoasters and high speed trains tilt before entering the SE curves. It's their transition prep for the S-el curve to follow)
I'm with RoyBoy
The tendencies are to pull the train over on its side outweighs any benefits of counter-acting centrifugal force.
Probably because of our sharper curves and lower weight than prototypical RR. I'm not an engineer, nor do I play one on TV, but I did pull a number of long Lionel trains over on their sides.
Many years ago [1950's and early 60's]....pennys.... some might be valuable today!
@RoyBoy posted:Just be aware that super elevation looks better than it works for toy trains. The critical thing is how well designed the easements are.
Yes. It works just fine - I have it - but those easements are important, both in function and appearance. Nothing exotic, just careful workmanship. Old-fashioned tubular is probably stiffer than my GG/Curtis/Ross, but it will still work.
I took some out last year in a couple of "inside" corners. I couldn't really see the superelevation from that angle anyway, and it was occasionally problematic with long steamers.
Oh - and thanks for using "superelevation" in the thread title, instead of "banking". Highways are banked.
I had almost all of my O27 track elevated on the curves for years. I used one popsicle stick then graduated to two, then back to one. I did not elevate my 31 Marx 1590 switches. So you can see I was not all elevated. We like to run trains fast!
Recently I purchased a Lionel 561, 0-8-0, a recent loco for me. It would derail on most of my curves. I found out if the elevation was remove the derailments on this engine stopped. Since 027 only has two track sections to make a 90 degree curve there are frequent transitions from curve to straight track where I think my derailments were happening. I never missed not having the track elevated. I do not think elevating track really makes much difference on 027 track.
Charlie
