Tapping into Atlas Flex Track?

I would be worried about the screw loosening over time due to vibration or temperature change expansion/contraction. Aside from that, nickel silver is actually pretty hard. I'm thinking it would not be the easiest thing to get a 4-40 tap into. I have machined rails while making turnouts and use a special end mill. HSS will probably work but it would wear out fairly quickly.

#4 seems awfully large for going into the that skinny rail web.    I think more in terms of #2 or smaller.   

It is an interesting idea.   

I did a big no-no when I built my layout.   I used the "old" Atlas flex from the old days, I had cases of it.    I soldered drops to the bottom of the rail joiners.    My thinking was that 2 had to fail to loose contact to the that rail.    I don't know if it will last or not, but the first ones were put in in 1988 and that track is still in use.   The last ones probably went in in 1995 or 96.      There have been some small track changes since, but the basic track was all in about then.     

I decided to do this rather than solder to the rail because the plastic ties on that track seemed to melt very easily.   And when they melt, you loose gauge.

I did this as an experiment, and it seems to work.  I was looking at fixing the burned out wiring on the older Atlas turnouts and adding non-derailing wires to all my switches.

I am out of town for several more weeks so I can't access my pictures and other info.  I think I used #2 machine screws.  First i drilled away part of the plastic on the underside between the ties to make a flat area sufficiently large enough to clear the eyelet attached to the wire. Then I drilled the the hole down though the center.  Tapped it, but one could use self-tapping crews.

I'll add pictures at a later date,

Jan

I think soldering is easier, faster and enduring.  I have solder joints to the web of the rail that are over 10 years old and I have massive humidity changes in my basement despite a dehumidifier running 10 hours a day and no problems yet.  Just my opinion.

Ed

When soldering, don't skip steps. Clean the metal and use paste! Correct paste and solder....and temp means all the difference.

Ingeniero No1 (Alex) came up with a great way to power atlas track. See this post: Ingeniero No1's Atlas track connections. He describes the process, drill size and screw size. The screws are available from Micro Fasteners. I used OGR #16 wire for the track connections and I think Alex used the same wire (his was also #16).

I used his method on my layout and it works great. Also very easy to make changes if you need to. I was really glad to have found this method before starting on my layout and appreciate Alex sharing the info.

He also covers this in his build thread here: Build Thread. He has some good tips on laying the Atlas track as well. Lots of good info in his build thread.

Look also guys at silver conductive epoxy to hold the screws in.   

I'm going to experiment with this.  

I used Ingeniero No1 (Alex) way to power the track.  It worked great and I've had no problems to date.  

See this post: Ingeniero No1's Atlas track connections.

I'd follow Tom Tee advice with one change  - I locate the feeders on whatever  side of the rail is away from the viewing aisle.  I have hundreds of 18 AWG feeders with zero failures.  Soldering feeders is fast, reliable, and properly done out of sight. 

Clean the rail

pre tin both the rail and feeder

form the feeder head 

I use a 260W Weller gun with a clean tip and easily get in and out without melting the plastic ties

I'm going to tap the hole up through the bottom of the rail.   

Completely invisible from above.  Epoxy the screw in with silver conductive solder.  

I got tired of melting ties lol. 

Ready to try a new way that seems bulletproof.

This is nothing against those that solder.  I make too many mistakes on expensive track plus my work always shows.

Keystoned Ed posted:

I'd follow Tom Tee advice with one change  - I locate the feeders on whatever  side of the rail is away from the viewing aisle.  I have hundreds of 18 AWG feeders with zero failures.  Soldering feeders is fast, reliable, and properly done out of sight. 

Clean the rail

pre tin both the rail and feeder

form the feeder head 

I use a 260W Weller gun with a clean tip and easily get in and out without melting the plastic ties

 

Exactly as above especially pretinning and i also use a toothpick dab of flux. When i am done solder looks like chrome and then i give it the 5 lb tug test.

Is Atlas nickel-silver?  If so, it solders easily with resin core solder and doesn't need any flux.

Cheers

Oh, and have you iron hot.  A "cool" iron will melt your ties.

Cheers again. 

By hot iron I mean pull the trigger to heat the tip before putting it on the rail vs putting the iron (gun) tip on the rail and then turning it on.  Objective is localized fast heat transfer.

Rail Dawg posted:

I have an idea about connecting wire feeds to my Atlas Flex Track.

Would need to experiment with size but what if we tapped say a #4 hole straight up into the rail then attached a #4 screw along with a #4 wire terminal? 

I don't mind soldering but I've had solders break over time even when they looked solid.  

It seems a solid screw straight into the rail would be a great connection and one you wouldn't second-guess.

Thoughts?

Go RC Battery Power. No track wiring, no track cleaning, no shorts, no polarity issues, no brainer.

Simon

I will soon need to decide on a method. Here's another mechanical method.

https://ogrforum.com/t...-on-split-jaw-clamps

Drilling and tapping WOULD work, but it would be a lot of just that....WORK.  And you'd have to locate the track exactly over the hole in the benchwork to feed the wire though, which could make any adjustment  or re-alignment of the track a real chore. 

I used a home-made resistance soldering rig, with heat sinks (cold wet rags) covering the rail (except for 'the spot'), and soldered the feeders to the unseen side of the rail.

A little paste flux to hold a tiny piece of solder in place, pressed home with the tinned end of the pigtail feeder, carbon tip on the opposite side of the rail, step on the button until the solder flows (2 seconds), cool with the wet rag and Bob's your uncle (you're all done).  It's been twenty years and I've never had a joint fail.

Here's a Cliff's Notes version of "How To Make Your Own Resistance Soldering Rig" :

A momentary footswitch feeds a household light dimmer which feeds a 50amp automotive battery charger, with the negative battery cable connected to the work, and the positive cable clamped onto a 1/4" carbon rod (ANY welding supply shop) who's tip is sanded or ground (pencil sharpener) to fit the job at hand.

Such a rig is one of the handiest things you'll never regret owning.  I hope this helps more than confuses...

Mark in Modesto