Track planning help for O60 curve and above

You can search the web for layout plans for the size your looking for, there are also a number of layout planning books to research.  Atlas used to have layout plans, so did MTH, key word "used" to.  Also, I see your a digital subscriber, check out the previous magazines and see if something catches your eye or helps spark an idea.

Darren, appreciate you taking the time to read through and support. Even though I am a novice, I have utilized all the resources out there. The core issue is, I am a novice and it is information overload and like reading and speaking a different language with zero prep. I posted to see if anyone has experience and knows how to guide me with a starter plan with these constraints. I would not like to recreate the wheel if possible. There are plenty of plans for 36 curve out there in the space I have. I need 60 or better in the same space. I already know I can do a circle in that space. I am hoping there is someone with experience who can help, not just send me to the internets, which is how I am here. I have local shops and the internet...taking a shot in the dark on the forum as I have seen great help and creativity. Also, I have seen quite a few engineers in here. The shops and internets are full of trial and error enthusiasts, which is AWESOME, but i feel i need a special set of skills for my monumental ask. The answer maybe nothing outside of a circle. But I am asking nonetheless. Again, TYVM!

With a limit of 8x8, even if you used the smaller 060 curves on the edge of your platform, you will only have about 3 feet of straight track on all 4 sides.  If you were willing to cut that down some, you might be able to create an 060 figure 8 layout within an 072 outside circle/oval.  With some luck, you could connect the figure 8 with the outside oval (using 4 switches on the curves) so that the two trains could alternate which one runs on the figure 8.  Otherwise, not much you can do with that limited space and those curves.

As an alternative, you could build a switching layout with 30" wide shelfs, one 5' 6" long and the other 8' long, connected to form an "L" shaped layout of 8' on each length.  This allows you to "practice" your layout building skills while putting something together that might be more fun to "operate" than just watching trains chase their tails.  Again, search the internet for "model railroad switching layouts" and lots of track plan options will appear.

Chuck

Chuck!!! Great idea. Let me start researching the switching. Again, I would not know to even think that way, because I truly have zero experience past 2 weeks ago. I have kinda just let my wife run with this stuff over the last 9 years. Her transformer did not power the Santa Fe, so she had not brought it out in years. This year out of nowhere I asked her to bring it out and the transformer was weak. We bought a better one and I was hooked. Lol. So much so, I bought a new one. Appreciate the guidance!! Teamwork makes the Dream Work

Do you say an 8x8 area because you're only thinking of a solid board type layout?
Chuck gave an alternate idea. Here's another one:
Do you have two separate areas that would fit smaller squares?
Two O-60 curves in different corners, joined by a narrow shelf, gives a lot more running room. Double track the shelf for a long run and your passing trains wish. You can always add switches later, if desired.

Dave

Do you have a rough drawing of your thought? Again, this is all foreign language to me. Visual would be great of you could?

Here are 3 ideas to fill the space. There will be reach issues, but you can always add casters so you can pull the layout away form the walls. Elevation on #2 and #3 is 5", but can be whatever you want.

O-60 Fastrack (from Scarm)
Board starts in left corner at 0" x 0".
Looks like the parallel tracks would easily fit on an 8" shelf.
Duplicate at the opposite corner of the room area. Could also make an O-60 x 90 degree turn there instead, then down to the diagonal corner of the room for an "L" shape.

Note the two straights between the return curves, stay away from joining two opposite curves.

Dave

Dave, could you please supply the parts list? Much appreciated and I LOVE this design. Yes, we already planned to put the table on casters, so reach is not an issue. I am retired from corporate leadership for 32 years and have been a FT actor for the last 5. This space is where I do my auditions and the casters are a must so I can setup to do a self-tape. Again, tyvm,Dave!!! P.s parts list, please. Tyvm!!

Here you go. The 1 3/8" half roadbed pieces come with the O-60 switches. A little bonus at the end.

Dave! Appreciate you! Once I am versed in this hobby, I will surely pay it forward! Again, APPRECIATE YOU!!!

Ken

Thanks, Ken. Which version are you leaning toward? Do you need a photo with the track names or can you figure them out?

The one in the video is my choice. I have a red bridge that I would like to put in the back where the tracks have straights. Making a hole in the mountain, so the top track rolls across the bridge, but the bottom track is open below. So the bottom run in and out of 2 sides of tunnel (through a mountain side)  Yes, if you can name, that would be great! Also, I would love to pay you for your time!

You understood the assignment and it is GREATLY appreciated! Having been a leader in the corporate world for 32 years, I appreciate learning and helping everyone.

I suggest you provide a rough drawing of your space, along with whatever is nonnegotiable around it. That will give everyone maximum flexibility to help you. Nonnegotiable means furnace, water heater, circuit breaker panel, laundry machines, support posts, walls, stairs, windows, doors--get it? I'm thinking bigger than the 8x8 space you mention--what else is in the vicinity? Why did you limit it to 8x8?

The next step would be for you to specify what is most important to you to have in your layout. Some want mainline running, some want switching. Some want scenic realism, some want operations at any cost. This will also help. You may not yet have enough experience to know.

If the Legacy L1 2-8-2 is the reason for the O-60 minimum, also say whether you would accept it only being able to run on a subset of the layout. It could run on an outer loop while allowing greater flexibility for the rest of the layout, for example.

Ken, how long is the bridge? Is it a single track or dual track?

24" single

Being a novice means that you have the opportunity to broaden your horizons as you increase your knowledge. There have been some great ideas here about how to best utilize your space and maybe that will yield your ultimate solution. But let's look at the bigger picture. You do not need to limit your trains to the available space in your home. One simple solution that can be awesome if you have even a small yard is to consider building a garden railroad outside using Atlas O gauge track. And the ultimate solution is to join a model train club that has its own layout. With this solution, you can run your trains on their layout and you get to work with other, experienced model railroaders. If you lived in the San Francisco Bay Area, I could name a couple of O gauge clubs that you could join. I suspect that this is the case in most parts of the country.

Ken, here's a new version with the bridge and name labels for your preferred design.

You rock, Dave!!! Email me your venmo or PayPal info!

Welcome Aboard Ken!  Take your time... there is a lot to be learned about the hobby.  Even the experts still pick up a thing or two on this site.  Never, ever stop learning!

Tyvm, Dennis!!

@Dntbsillynow posted:

You rock, Dave!!! Email me your venmo or PayPal info!

Thanks anyway, but this took no effort on my part. If you build it and enjoy it, that’s compensation enough.

@Ken Wing posted:

I suggest you provide a rough drawing of your space, along with whatever is nonnegotiable around it. That will give everyone maximum flexibility to help you. Nonnegotiable means furnace, water heater, circuit breaker panel, laundry machines, support posts, walls, stairs, windows, doors--get it? I'm thinking bigger than the 8x8 space you mention--what else is in the vicinity? Why did you limit it to 8x8?

The next step would be for you to specify what is most important to you to have in your layout. Some want mainline running, some want switching. Some want scenic realism, some want operations at any cost. This will also help. You may not yet have enough experience to know.

If the Legacy L1 2-8-2 is the reason for the O-60 minimum, also say whether you would accept it only being able to run on a subset of the layout. It could run on an outer loop while allowing greater flexibility for the rest of the layout, for example.

Welcome to the Forum!!  I'm late to this party, but I agree with ^^Ken.  IMO, O60 curves are very broad for an 8x8 room.  Your postwar Santa Fe diesel would be happy on curves as tight as O31.  The layout that Dave drew up is amazing, but switching to sharper curves would dramatically increase your possibilities, including giving the train on the lower level "something to do."  It's a lot of work to build a layout.  So having some variety to the operation will keep you from getting bored with it too quickly.  Good luck whatever  you decide!

Ted, great point! We currently or before I bought the 072 and new train we had/have o36. Where I was going with my request was being able to have the main train run on all tracks. If going to o31/o36, the Mikado cannot run inside. That is the crux of my problem. I do not want that train to only run on the outer oval.  I am limited on outward space,but not vertically. I cannot go past 8x8 or outside. At o60 I can run my main train (the L1)  throughout the layout, which is the most important. So that everyone understands, I do not have ability to be bigger than 8x8, cannot use less than o60 as my main train is min o54. I have to spend money regardless and it won't be on something that does not meet the few min requirements. +o60 curves, 8x8, 2 lines (ability for trains going opposite direction passing each other). Appreciate everyone's view,support, and opinion.

@Dntbsillynow welcome to the OGR Forum and getting more involved with the hobby!

You have already hit the nail on the head about paying it forward.  That is what this forum is about.  You are right about evaluating the answers and opinions given by forum members and picking what you think suits you.  Don't be afraid of stopping construction if you see what you are doing isn't working out like you thought it would.  Most of us, me for sure, have torn stuff out and gone different routes.  Always remember, it is your railroad.  Ultimately, you are the only one who can make the decision what you want.  We are glad to have you here!!!

This hobby is full of tough choices.  I've seen a lot of layouts that end up collecting dust after they're built because owners get bored of running in circles.  Building something that will keep you engaged would have better long-term value.  If 8x8 is all the room you're going to have for the foreseeable future, then I would sell the L1 Mikado and replace it with a K-Line semi-scale Mikado, or a RailKing Imperial Pennsy L1 (yes, they made one and it runs on O31!)  Then I would design a layout with uniform O31 curves and switches which will give you a good bit of complexity and variety in that room.

I think a lot of people fall in love with a loco in the store only to later find out that it's not especially "housebroken."  I'm adamant that room size determines your curve radius, which in turn sets limits for your loco roster.  More and more of the US population is moving to warm-weather states where houses don't have basements.  In the meantime, full-scale steam locos keep getting more expensive (and perhaps less reliable.)  So RailKing, LionChief, etc., seem like a good way to go whether you're brand-new to the hobby, or looking to build from a Postwar collection.

Dave's two-level design is a brilliant way to meet your original constraints.  But geometry dictates that anything with O60 and O72 in an 8x8 room is going to be a near-circle with very short straightaways.  I can't help but feel that you would get more long-term enjoyment running a RailKing L1 on a more intricate layout with sidings, yard, alternate routes, etc.  It's not always about "scale."  With the right treatment, an O-gauge layout with traditional-sized trains and Plasticville buildings can achieve a very realistic appearance.  There is no wrong decision, and as Ken posted, the best solution depends on YOUR goals and preferences.

@Dntbsillynow posted:

At o60 I can run my main train (the L1)  throughout the layout, which is the most important. So that everyone understands, I do not have ability to be bigger than 8x8, cannot use less than o60 as my main train is min o54.

Before you start building, and buying track.......

I'm not sure where your getting your minimum radius info.

The new L1 mikado has a minimum radius of O42. Mine is running just fine on O48 as I type this.

@RickO I have a Legacy L1 and the box says min o54

That's incorrect. Lionels website says O42. It wouldn't be the first time a print error was made.

http://www.lionel.com/products...mikado-1343-2331021/

Not to mention. These engines are former MTH tooling. MTH also rated them for O42.

As I stated above. Mines been running on 048 since it was delivered awhile back.

I think an O48 radius will free up some real estate on your 8x8 area.

Give Dave shout and maybe he can tweak the design for O48.

( there must be some confusion going on with Lionels label printer. I just took delivery of the Prr I1 decapod with the "short tender"and box label says 072. These were marketed, cataloged  and online at O54. Mines happily running on O60)

@RickO tyvm for the update!! Again, issues of being a novice. @DoubleDAZ it looks like we have new information! Could we reconfigure for o42? I love and would like muti-level. So, I do not know if we can do this, but I have a passenger train and the L1 and would still like a similar layout with the bridge, mountain, etc but at o42 if we could get a line running through the middle (middle of the town?  I still would like to have the L1 running all lines, so nothing shorter than o42, please. Ty ahead of time!

Too late tonight, but I’ll see if I can’t come up with something using O48 curves. Hopefully, I can add a crossover and some sidings to add play value. It’d be nice if there was someone local running O48 to test the Mikado.

@DoubleDAZ posted:

It’d be nice if there was someone local running O48 to test the Mikado.

I have one of these L1 mikados Dave. It runs on O48 no problem.

At the Lionel website link I posted  above. It states that these have an O42 minimum.

I'd be happy to post a short clip of mine running on my O48 loop if folks are still unsure.

@Dntbsillynow posted:

@RickO tyvm for the update!! Again, issues of being a novice. @DoubleDAZ it looks like we have new information! Could we reconfigure for o42?

Assuming  by your photo your planning on using fastrack. Fastrack only comes in O48.

Then jumps down to O36. I'd see what Dave works up in O48.

@RickO and @DoubleDAZ I can also see if one of the shops that repairs my Sante Fe can see if it runs on that track. Both shops have multiple sizes.

@RickO the short video would help too. Again, tyvm!!

@RickO ty

@RickO and @DoubleDAZ technically I can use any track, but have plenty of fast track. I like Atlas and others, but this build is my 1st and trying to keep cost down as much as possible while I am learning.

Here's what I came up with before I went to bed last night. Check out the 2d video and watch the small switcher.

2d

3d