Well, she did a very nice job.
Ken you and your wife are doing a wonderful job on your layout! I really like the farm area and waiting to see what kind of live stock you have! LOL
@mike g. We are waiting on her parents who send us some livestock before we get our own. @DoubleDAZ here is a quick overview. https://youtu.be/Ks2EyZNg4L8?si=BzRJar_n_YKzATrk
Looks good Ken. O love the buildings you’re using, perfect for a small space.
@DoubleDAZ yes! I am putting some backs on a few of them to make them look like regular buildings. As soon as I saw these I was in love! These are custom made too! He changed the wording on a couple of the buildings for me. Nick is the owner, great guy! See his page here.
EBAY link removed per the OGR TOS....in addition, the link went to a vendor that is banned from this forum.
@DoubleDAZ @mike g. @Mark Boyce wired everything to accessory bus...all lit up!
@Mark Boyce I just emailed Nick, I am not sure he realizes that MTH Z4000 has accessory ports. I told him I had a Z400, but he said I needed his 9V power supply, which I bought, but the Z4000 is designed for accessory - 2 ports and 2 ports for track power. I have an accessory port and figured it would work fine, and it did. Maybe he thought I meant the Lionel Z transformer which I think too has the setup to run accessories. He said the transformer is AC and would not work. We shall see what he responds. It works perfectly and the brightness is normal not overly bright. I am not an electrician and am not giving anyone advice, but these work on my current power setup. So, I bought a part I do not need. Oh well, done that before. 😂😂😂😂😂
They look really great, Ken!!
Ken, it appears Nick is right and wrong. All LEDs are DC, but can operate on low voltage AC like the 10 and 14 volts the Z-4000 puts out on the Acc ports. I’m not an electrician, so I don’t know if that affects their longevity.
https://www.cencepower.com/blo...have%20known,current)%20line%20voltage%20power%20sources.
Be careful on powering LEDs with DC or AC. You need to know their operating voltage usually between 3 and 12 volts DC. Providing over voltage will eventually cause them to burn out prematurely. If way too high they will flash and be done instantly. I understand using low voltage AC is not a good idea as half the time voltage is being applied to the neutral side of the diode. This can break down the LED over time shortening life. They also need the proper sized resistor to limit current into the LED, otherwise the same problem with burnout.
Jeff, here’s the limited description of the lights:
1 Warm White LED 9-12 Volts Pre Wired 3mm DC , Extra Lighting For Building Flats
Dave, I have to presume PTF Designs includes a resistor wired into the LED circuit so all is needed is a DC supply between 9 and 12 volts. I would not use AC, there are plenty of 12 volt ac to dc wall warts out there. J
Jeff, Nick told Ken he needed his 9 volt power supply, so I’m not so sure. I have no idea, I’d just hate to see them wear out prematurely. He’s waiting for word from Nick, so hopefully he’ll get a response.
Not sure how to reply on this. I went to their website to take a look see. To use their power supply the LEDs would still need resistors in the circuit. LEDs will suck power as fast as it can be delivered, the problem being over time it cannot dissipate the heat generated and poof. The resistor acts as a valve limiting the power delivery. Yeah I know resistors are generally not thought of as current limiting but for LEDs that is how they operate. On another note, I've had emails with Nick asking about building a 5 foot by 20 inch building flat backdrop. We will see how that goes.
For what its worth, Woodland Scenics static grass applicator has its DC polarity crossed in the unit. You can use a 12 volt wall wart, but you have to cross the wires in the barrel plug. I made up an extension plug which does that so I did not have to cut anything. Works great. Just a pair of male and female barrel plug connectors wired together. That may be the case with those LEDs.
@ScoutingDad @DoubleDAZ I am not worried about longevity too much as I actually have about 300 LED lights with the resistor at the same stats as Nick's and I have them in other buildings etc. So, I am not sure it is an issue. The voltage that is running these is the 10V line as all my accessories and all that I see online is 9-12V. I have 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm LED'S in a bunch of colors. I am not worried about this. Again, I am not an electrician but 1 volt more cannot create that much issue. Dave do not bother with the direct message I sent. I had a brain fart and mixed up the new o36 with the o72 halves as they are similar in length and I have them all in a bunch like a moron. 🥴 I have to run out to the shop tonight and get some more straights as you can see from the pic. The house will go back, I just placed it to see if it lined up. 
Attachments
Images (3)
@ScoutingDad the ones he installs do have the resistor, just like the ones I already have. His is the one on the left and the right is mine. Like I said in my last post, i have those all over my layout and they work great. I replaced one of his, because I wanted a flickering effect on one. 
Attachments
Images (1)
Good to go Ken. I like the engine house. Glad to see I got the dimensions correct. There must be enough differences in the 2 houses for the other one to work with the O-72 FasTrack Wye.
@DoubleDAZ this house works really well with my theme and it is Pennsylvania, so win-win. Switch wired and working! 💪🏾 Just need more straights.
Attachments
Videos (1)
@Mark Boyce @doubletrak @mike g. and everyone else.....Take a look
@Dntbsillynow Voltage off the Z4000 is AC, LEDs take DC. The issue with using AC is the applied voltage to the ground side. Over time hitting this area 60 times a second can lead to electrical breakdown of the ground barrier and subsequent failure of the LED. Wall warts are cheap, why not use them? Changing incoming voltage anywhere from 3 to 12 volts will just reduce brightness. There is a minimum voltage needed to drive the LED which varies with color.
I have a couple issues with all of this, I do not run my trains and or lights for hours. I run for minutes at a clip, therefore, that is why I am not worried about longevity. Secondly, the LED'S I have which look very similar to the ones Nick have (again, no idea the difference) and their manufacturer list them as compatible with AC/DC. I am not an electrician, but if they are telling me the design does not matter if AC/DC, why would I add a different part and setup if the products i use work with current setup. As well as this simple fact, i already swapped out one bulb and could simply replace all the rest with the LED'S that I have plenty of. This hobby has a lot of needing multiple things to operates different stuff, examples Lionel, VS, MTH vs Atlas etc some things are compatible some are not. I am very happy to not worry about this particular thing, as in no way is the downside a game changer. I do understand what you are saying and am just making a differnet decision. Appreciate the feedback
@ScoutingDad here is what I use....
Attachments
Images (1)
@DoubleDAZ @Mark Boyce Nick got back to me and he said 13 years ago the bulbs were burning out in a year, so he switched to the current setup. However, like everything in life, LED'S clearly have grown in the last 13 years. He has bulbs that have not been changed in 13 years, so he sells the converter. To a novice like me, I believe some if not all the LED'S (today) listed as with resistor are like mine and have built in rectifier which allow them to work in all environments. Because, they look the same, i think it is simply a manufacturing change that has not been communicated properly over the years. I could be wrong and probably am, but I am rolling with what I have.
Ken, I see nothing wrong with your logic.
@DoubleDAZ agreed. It is what it is and I fully appreciate anyone's thoughts, but the downside is so minimal for this little layout. Although, the manufacturer has confirmed I am good anyways. Off we go. I did not get to the shop tonight as they close early on Thursday, so the track will be done in the am. Appreciate all your help, Dave!!!💪🏾
Ken, the layout looks great! I must say for the others’ benefit, photography, even Nick’s own website, doesn't do his buildings justice. I knew he was setting up at Monroeville last year, saw his sign as I approached, then I saw his display! Wow!
Yes, while sometimes electronics goes against logic and theory, his experience tells a lot. For my own homemade lighting, I would want to follow how Jeff is thinking, but…🤷♂️. The mountain looks great behind your town!
@Mark Boyce yes they look great in person! I added foam to the back of the movie theater to simulate full building. Once I put up backdrop, you will really only be able to see layout from the open side, so the flats strategically placed with real buildings work really well in this small layout. Nick's craftsmanship is awesome! He could easily charge 2-3x and they would be worth every penny. And, the power supply is a great option too as you can run a bus from it for the flats. I believe when I bought it he said it can handle 50 lights.
@DoubleDAZ picked up more straights this morning. Now I have to wait until Sunday to finish the house. Ordered foam roadbed. I have plenty of cork, but wished I used foam. Cork is difficult to work with. None of the dealers near me stock it, so I got it off Amazon. 😁
Attachments
Videos (1)
Morning Ken and happy weekend! I just got up to speed on your post and youtube video's. I think your doing a great job and things are really looking up for you and your layout!
As for the LED's I think go with what works best for you! I use a lot of small wall warts and I also use quite a few AC to DC converters for my LED's. On my old layout I had tons of them in buildings, lights, and even in cars that I took battery packs out of and use wall warts on.
My question is have you ran an engine in the door with the curve yet? I know I had a engine house that would be a problem with big engines, so I just ran smaller ones on the tight side! LOL
Here is a photo of the buck converter I use and a small video with a lot of the lights on my layout! Enjoy!
Attachments
Images (1)
Videos (1)
@mike g. Not yet, I have to get road bed installed 1st. I kinda did, but realized a couple other issues (roadbed and power connections not solid). I thought it would be plug and play. But the joiners were not the same from previous, easy fix, but waiting until the road bed comes tomorrow to do it all at once. The Pennsy diesel cut out right at new switch and I noticed there were some joiners missing here and there on the lines after split. I could get it to go with a little more speed, etc, but clearly power disruption that I will fix tomorrow. As far as closeness, I do not forsee as I have room to move house back if needed. About 2" but already moved it back since my 1st video after getting the track pieces, seems to be fine the way it is, even though it is not tested yet. Before the new pieces the one side basically got to door right after turn. Now it has 3.75" of straight before door. Again, we shall see tomorrow. Appreciate the kind words! It appears there is just better technology out there now. The LED'S i use have the mechanics to operate on all systems. There are plenty of LED'S that cannot as they do not have the rectifier built in. That converts the electricity properly regardless of input, so I have been told by the manufacturer. Appreciate the support, Mike! We are getting there.
Sounds like you have everything under control! Nice work!
@DoubleDAZ @Mark Boyce @mike g.
Alright guys, here is the 1st go at this. A little bit of a pain, actually. I still need to secure it to the table, but it is **** near impossible to get a drill or screwdriver in this. Interesting design. Top comes off, but not the base 🤬🥴 lining up track and base is my next challenge although it worked, but over time it wont, I am sure. 🤬
Well, at least you know it works and the engine clears. Are there predrilled holes or something in the base or are you left to decide how to secure it?
@DoubleDAZ 2 Holes in the center, but it is a pain, because although the top comes off, the structure does not lend to get a drill in or a screwdriver if i mark the holes and drill with the house off the layout...weird little setup....i will get it, just a pain. they even say in the directions make sure you screw two screws in the bottom....yet they design it with cross beams that make it difficult to drill pilot holes, which anyone on a model railroad would need to do.....crazy
I’m sure you’ll figure it out. Good luck.
@DoubleDAZ tyvm!
It looks good for engines clearing the door openings!!
Ken that looks sharp! If it were me I wouldn't worry about screwing it down. If your worried about it moving glue some ground cover around it to keep it in place, that way it will be easier to remove the building if you need to do some track work. One never knows what gremlins would catch a ride in for the night and stay! LOL
Thanks @mike g. Agreed. I popped a large screw behind the bumpers in case a loco somehow goes too far, but I was able to get 2 screws in the holes but it does not really hold it in place....lol. I wish I saw your message before I did it, as, right, now I have to take them out if I need to move it. Oh well, not a huge deal. I just wanted it to be solid so in case the kids play with it then it just works. I will make sure it is lined up when I use it...all good. Honestly I will mostly use 1 bay for rolling stock/passenger cars and storage of another loco in other side. Trying to have a little operations action. That is why I wanted the 2 bay. I am pleased with this, even though the design is weird. They should have made it so you could mount the base and the whole structure slides off, not just the roof insert that slides off. Anywho, thanks everyone for the kind words and advice! Much appreciated!
