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One thing that Weaver added over the years was weight. When I was in 3 rail (90s and early 2000s) I had a problem with the Weaver cars derailing a lot. These cars had no weights but the newer ones have weights installed. Once I added weight as per NMRA specifications they worked great. The spec is 5 ounces and then add 1 ounce for every inch. For example a ten inch boxcar should weigh 15 ounces. I went to a LHS that sold a little O but was predominantly HO and bought stick on weights. For the boxcars the shell pops off without any screws. I just stuck the weight right over the trucks because I figured it would be better to have the weight right on top of the trucks and if you open the door you can't see the weight. 

 

A friend of mine has a few Weaver boxcars that have plastic trucks but metal wheel sets. I added the weights for him and he hasn't had a lick of trouble with them. 

 

 

Can't add too much to what's already been said, but I like Weaver cars and miss the company. I have a few dozen of them, mostly covered hoppers, a few box cars and a few tank cars. The common characteristic of all of them is that most of them are underweight per NMRA recommendations, especially the earlier ones that used plastic trucks. I've been bringing their weight up to spec when converting them over to scale wheels and Kadees as they're the simplest and Intermountain wheels fit the trucks perfectly. The detail isn't as good as the current offerings from MTH, Atlas and high-end Lionel but they could be had for $20 or so a car, plus shipping in the secondary market -- more for some of the newer and rarer cars.

I find Weaver Models 'Ultra-Line' freight cars to be well made with the metal trucks and MOST detailing.

For some reason with their box cars they must use a 1950's style PS-1 body for all cars, regardless of the car manufacturer and year the car was made in the prototype/real world, because if the car is supposed to have a lower height and 'Poling-Pockets,' then Weaver's 'Ultra-Line' cars are PS-1 cars having all the same height and NO 'Poling-Pockets.'

Some freight cars are spot on with the markings and some others are NOT and other type freight cars which in the prototype/real world have No 'Poling-Pockets, when the cars is supposed to have them.

Usually the Gold series are produced very similar to the prototype/'Real-Deal, but cost way more!.

Ralph

Last edited by RJL

Weaver info –

 

All my Weavers contain spring die-cast trucks and couplers.

Either I bought them that way or converted them over the years.

 

Be careful as many in the market were mixed with both plastic and metal combinations generally by former owners.

There is another issue concerning internal metal weights. They can be cut and moved away from the door ways. Or remove when adding die-cast trucks, extra metal no longer required.

Don't run the car heavier than it needs to be after conversion.

 

There are plenty of plastic versions that flood the market place every day.

 

I always make the seller look at the car so I don’t get plastic anything.

The other thing to look for are broken, missing or cracked stirrup steps.

 

A safe bet for die-cast everything is the “LD” marking on the box.

Yellow sticker boxes also have die-cast T&C’s.

 

Don’t over pay as plastic T&C cars are only worth 18 bucks ea.tops.

If you can find die-cast to add, figure adding another 18 to the price making the car about the same as a Premier. If you go over, you are paying to much in my opinion.

Die-cast T&C cars top around 30-36, just under older MTH Premier prices.

 

S.

Last edited by SIRT

I love them...for exactly what they are!  If you can find them on the secondary market in the price range that Matt & SIRT mentioned, they are a very good value by today's standards.  And they have provided me with an inexpensive "canvas" to teach myself how to weather!

 

As several members have already pointed out, they have a decent amount of detail (some molded in, and some added on) that IMO tends to stand out better when weathered.  The 40' PS-1 boxcars, for example, have separately-applied roof walks, end ladders and brake wheel & rigging, but the grab irons are molded in. 

 

I also strongly agree with the comments regarding their weight.  All of mine have die-cast trucks and couplers and added weight (if necessary) to bring them up to the NMRA standard.  I use 1/4 & 1/2 ounce stick-on wheel-balancing weights purchased from Harbor Freight.

 

Here are some photos of six types of Weaver "Ultra-Line" freight cars:

 

-40' PS-1 boxcar(s)

-40' plug-door boxcar

-40' double-door steel-sided boxcar

-PS-2 covered hopper

-Both ribbed & offset-side 2-bay coal hoppers...

 

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Last edited by CNJ #1601

I think it is great how you train "vets" are so willing to share your knowledge. Us "rookies" really appreciate it! Oh, and JoeyA, you are an artist with your detailing!

 

I think the take-away for me is to welcome the opportunity to add Weaver rolling stock when the price is right while giving a strong preference to the later ones with the die-cast trucks and couplers. Again, I remain grateful to each of you for sharing!

Good morning

80% of my fleet is early Weaver with plastic trucks and plastic (Delrin) wheels never an issue. I convert all my Atlas,MTH,K-Line and Lionel to Weaver or Athern plastic trucks and wheels when possible. Use to have 0ver 300 Weaver cars. I use Kadee couplers, the Weaver plastic couplers not so good.

 

Clem 

 

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