Thanks for the encouragement Mike. I’ve formulated plans and then I see something that you guys have done and think okay that’s neat to include and then all the other creations that there are to incorporate. But, I’ll muddle through it and get them running.
So it turns out, to my surprise, that when one is testing accessories, that it is best to have your transformer test leads on the accessory terminals, not track power. 
I was fiddling around with the coils last night and realized that I'm an idiot. (something the CEO already knew).
So the good news is I have 3 working uncouplers and can continue on the yard.
Oh Happy Day! 
The little people look great Mike. Nice work. 
@RSJB18 posted:So it turns out, to my surprise, that when one is testing accessories, that it is best to have your transformer test leads on the accessory terminals, not track power.
I was fiddling around with the coils last night and realized that I'm an idiot. (something the CEO already knew).
So the good news is I have 3 working uncouplers and can continue on the yard.
Oh Happy Day!
Too funny! Glad you don't need to acquire uncouplers now. What made you circle back and re-check?
@Strap Hanger posted:Too funny! Glad you don't need to acquire uncouplers now. What made you circle back and re-check?
Sheer stubbornness....
The people in your town look great. You made them nicely detailed too. You have a fine steady hand.
@RSJB18 posted:Sheer stubbornness....
That certainly does help when building a train layout!
@Strap Hanger posted:That certainly does help when building a train layout!
It does- I was actually building my own electro-magnets and when I went to test the first one, I realized that the leads were on the wrong terminals. I grabbed the two UCS magnets and tested. The rest is history...
Jay. You're doing the most important thing on a layout in my opinion your getting your train room ready. I spent two winters getting my train room ready. When I started building bench work it was all from scratch. I used scrap wood from building sites and a good thing I did because I've torn out so much and redone it . My oil refinery area has been torn out 3 times before I finally got the curves right. That's the fun of a layout you can change it to fit whatever you want. Have fun with it . This forum has a great bunch of guys that are very helpful with different ideas . Have fun . Farmer John
Thanks Farmer John. I’m having fun with it and I’m anxious to get started. However, I’ve been a keen observer of the insights, lessons, and photos that have been presented by the knowledgeable folks on this forum.
Jay. I worked on this scene a little today. I thought I was ready for scenery a year ago but didn't fit. I had to many strait lines in it visually and the three mth hump back bridges didn't fit the area. Now I think the line of view is much better. Whatever what I'm saying is don't be afraid to change you're layout . I seem to never get it right on the first shot but mostly it works later for the better. 
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Thanks again Farmer John, that’s very sage advice. In my mind I’m attempting to visualize THE final product. In all likelihood, if there is such a thing as being done, it will entail numerous changes. I guess I’m trying to minimize the change orders. It just has to evolve as it will. Follow the rails to see where they take you.
Andrew here at the lake house. Tonight, I lubricated/oiled (in railroad terms) a few of my pre-war and post-war steamers from the Lionel and American Flyer loco works (minus my Marx engines), and my two 2-6-4 steamers by Lionel, numbers #2026 and #2018 have this awful grinding noise in their motors.
I had oiled #2018 in its gears and armature with my Labelle #108 lubrication kit at my mother's house (where my second train layout is) last weekend and brought it here as a test subject for this weekend. (The engine works best on tinplate track, based on a seller's recommendation for my pre-war AF 2-4-4 engine at the Royal Oak Farmer's Market.) But still, they still make that dreaded grinding sound, and it bugs me. Any ideas for this 26-year old toy train railroader in train-ing?
John Great photos, I see how you moved the track more to the right, It will give it a nice sweeping curve into the hill side. Should look great when your done!
Jay, a little hint. No matter how long you look at it and think about it once you get it built there is always going to be something your going to want to change. I am 4-5 years into my build and already want to change things up! LOL
Andrew, sorry your having a problem with your engines, I am sure someone here can help you out as there is tons of great folks here.
Well as for me they are calling for rain for the next couple days so I might be able to get out and paint more of my little people instead of painting the house! LOL
I hope you all have a great week, but most of all I hope you all find time for your layout and to have fun with your trains!
What I did this weekend was to commence a restart of "the layout" build that started many years and houses ago. The "new" basement had carpet removed, pool table sold/moved (3 teenaged boys and I shoving it up the basement stairs (ouch). Next is to remove the far - non-load bearing wall & do the usual space prep - which I am getting well-practiced at ! Thks to you all that post actual working layouts to inspire me ! Rich in SD
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I spent time fixing my Lionel operating lumberjacks today. They went from working to occasionally starting/stopping on their own to completely non-functional. I extracted the unit from the scenery, opened it up and found the gears all in good order, well-lubed, so I bypassed the internal board and put 3.5v straight to the motor leads, and little lumberjacks sprang to life. Since I'm operating the lumberjacks off a triggered timer, I just ran the DC 12v line that powers the relay timer to a small buck transformer and adjusted it down to about 3.2v and fed that to the unit. Internally I hooked power terminal feeds directly to motor and the "sliding log pile" switch feeds. Oh and I labeled the underside of the logger unit indicating terminal polarity and the fact that it's now a 3.5v DC accessory just in case i need to revisit this in the future. 
Side note: I found that if you over-tighten the screws in the base of this unit, the gears start to bind and you get a stuttering of the movement.
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Applied static grass for the first time. Lesson learned: Don’t mask the edge with tape if you want leftovers 😬
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Winston, what length static grass are you using in the image? What kind of applicator?
I do not get the effect I see with most applications using the Woodland Scenics applicator and 12 mm grass and 9v battery. The short stuff seems to work way better. I end up doing multiple applications to get the density up to something reasonable. And a fair amount of combing to get the grass to stand up.
RSJB18 Bob - if you ever get a subway set DCS is quite impressive running the trains between stations with auto programmed stops. The rest of loco control with DCS is also great especially when it maintains speed up and down grades. If I interconnect all my loops I can run three trains with a single TIU using the app on an 8 inch pad. Lash-ups are really easy to do as well. I avoided hooking up my DCS until recently (had it about a year) should have done it way sooner.
@WinstonB posted:Applied static grass for the first time.
I too would like to know all your details. Great job on what looks like the longer lengths of static grass. Mine never stand up like yours. (I use a Woodland Scenics Static King, as Scouting Dad mentioned. I wonder if I should try a higher voltage with the longer grasses.)
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:Hooked up my DCS Commander. Very cool! I may need to go all in and buy a WTIU soon.
Yes @Apples55. I've seen the light! 🤪
Bob
Thou hath not achieved true enlightenment until thou knowest the joy of command control switches 
Slip sliding away, slip sliding away
You know the nearer your destination
The more you're slip sliding away!!!
@Bob "O" posted:I too would like to know all your details. Great job on what looks like the longer lengths of static grass. Mine never stand up like yours. (I use a Woodland Scenics Static King, as Scouting Dad mentioned. I wonder if I should try a higher voltage with the longer grasses.)
Bob
I used a RTS Greenkeeper 55kv, 9v battery. The pics on the layout are 10mm XL from ScenicExpress. I have also tested 12mm static grass and it handles them easily. It comes with four sieves, which includes a conical one that allows you to spot treat an area.
Holy Cow! 55,000 volts. It must make you hair stand on end when using it. Thanks for the info.
Bob
@WinstonB posted:I used a RTS Greenkeeper 55kv, 9v battery.
What did you purchase this applicator?
Bob
This evening I modified a PW F-3 Pullmor single-motor chassis from my NP North Coast Limited train to become a dummy unit for that train by inserting a plug secured with tiny screws in the frame where the motor used to sit. The donor plug came from a modern F-3 A chassis purchased from LIONEL and intended for this NP NCL dummy unit. It was only when I went to paint the new chassis that I discovered that LIONEL used the power chassis with plugs secured with screws to make the dummy chassis.
To do this task, I used a tap (which was on hand for some long forgotten and undone project) for the first time. And, major luck factor, the donor plug used two tiny screws which were the same 2-56 thread as my tap! Re-using the previously powered chassis spared myself the task of painting the new dummy chassis.
So what started as a simple paint project using a new dummy chassis turned into a new modeling experience and saving the task of painting another frame.
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@Bob "O" posted:What did you purchase this applicator?
Bob
I have been using grass mats, but didn’t like the look especially for close up areas at the front of my layout. For me, Static grass with the applicator is a better look. Google,YouTube, and reviews ended with getting a Greenkeeper. Tech data says up to 55kv. Instructions says to hold power button for 6-10sec, then release and start flocking for up to one minute. This interval technique saves battery life.
@Apples55 posted:Thou hath not achieved true enlightenment until thou knowest the joy of command control switches
Slip sliding away, slip sliding away
You know the nearer your destination
The more you're slip sliding away!!!
Not likely with 5121's
I think it's fair to say that the slope has been greased, along with my shoes.....
Bob
TREES! The seedom flowers I put away for trees last fall to dry are being airbrushed w/ acrylic craft paints, covered w/ ground foam, and installed on the layout. Almost all of the trees on my layout are made this way- goes fast, and way less costly than commercial trees!
!!
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Mike, you have done a great job making and planting the trees! The scenes look excellent!
Rich, Great start with the new train room!
Scott, great job! Looks wonderful!
Bob, verynice, welcome to the modern world!
WinstonB, Outstanding work, You should do a how to video!
Mike Wyatt, wonderful trees! I can see another how to video needed!
As for me I have been painting the house and working on Scarm trying to redo my layout already! I see all the layouts with the nice curves and not just a circle that goes around the room! To be honest I am getting tired getting up on the layout and Chris from RBP Trains is trying to help me out as I really dig his layout. The thing is I want to keep the lower level and upper level connected. I will post something when I think we have it figured out!
@Mike Wyatt posted:TREES! The seedom flowers I put away for trees last fall to dry are being airbrushed w/ acrylic craft paints, covered w/ ground foam, and installed on the layout. Almost all of the trees on my layout are made this way- goes fast, and way less costly than commercial trees!
!!
I love the price on them also,love your work
@Bob "O" posted:Oops. I meant where did you purchase your Greenkeeper?
Bob
Purchased mine from Unique Scenery Products , https://en.scenery.shop, located in The Netherlands.
@RSJB18 posted:Not likely with 5121's
I think it's fair to say that the slope has been greased, along with my shoes.....
Bob
Well, you could update the 5121’s... 
@WinstonB posted:Purchased mine from Unique Scenery Products , https://en.scenery.shop, located in The Netherlands.
Thank you, Winston. I could not find a North American distributor. I guess that explains your purchase from Europe.
Bob
I've seen tube reviews of various static grass applicators. The Greenkeeper builds a much higher static charge than any of the others which makes it ideal for the 12 mil grass. Of course it is about 3x more expensive than any other on the market. Just depends on where you want to spend your pennies. I so far have only found EU vendors. When I spoke with the WS people they suggested using the 12 V adapter which delivers a higher static charge than the 9v battery.
Was running my williams sharks today, when the A-A units went over my K-Line 042 switch there was a big spark. Now my var 1 output on my new rev L TIU is dead. The breaker on the z1000 brick never popped.
Guess I don't run conventional loco's anymore on that track since I now have to use fixed 1 output. Var 2 is already in use on a different loop.
I got the other two yard tracks installed last night. I soldered drops onto the track and got the two magnets ready to go. When I went to install the magnets I drilled the hole for track 2 and hit the support beam underneath. After a few attempts to drill an angled hole to get out of the beam I decided to call it for the night. The board needs a good clean up before I continue.
@Apples55- changing the switches????? I might as well rip the whole layout down and start over. Not likely in the near future. Thanks for the nudge tho...
Bob
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@ScoutingDad posted:I've seen tube reviews of various static grass applicators. The Greenkeeper builds a much higher static charge than any of the others which makes it ideal for the 12 mil grass. Of course it is about 3x more expensive than any other on the market. Just depends on where you want to spend your pennies. I so far have only found EU vendors. When I spoke with the WS people they suggested using the 12 V adapter which delivers a higher static charge than the 9v battery.
I know nothing regarding these units - I think they are powered by negative ion generators. If the WS Static King puts our a higher static voltage with the 12V DC input compared to the 9V battery, I wonder what the upper limit would be for input voltage. Could one apply, say, 15 or18 V input, in the hopes of a higher output static charge? At what point would you risk damaging the Static King?
I note that the RTS Greenkeeper puts our 55 KV with a 9V battery input. So it must be in the electronic guts of the device. I wish I could modify my WS unit to get better static output. I bet some of the electronics wizards on the forum would have insight into this. (For comparison, the electronic bug zapper rackets that are used for home-made applicators, are in the range of 3-4 KV.)
Bob
