What did you do on your layout today?

Seth, I was planning to use the chip LEDs from Evans Designs (Forum Sponsor) I have to measure the bulb size on the lamps. I would slice off the shade, drill, glue in the LED, reattach the shade and then run the wires along the goose neck and into the building. The Nano or Pico look to be about the right size. MTH uses wheat type lamps in their passenger cars. I just think they use too much power off the transformer.

After watching a video on lighting HO passenger cars, I like the idea of using magnetic wire connectors between cars, to minimize the need for diodes and to remove some of the power pickup rollers.

Regarding making signs - there are a number of good videos on Model Railroad Academy. Sometimes you can get an annual subscription for next to nothing. Some videos are free. Not sure if the link will work for you, but this one shows how he makes signs from old magazine advertisements. Neat process.

George Sellios signs

This is what my O and HO Gauge layout looks like. Of course, I should get a bunch of taller elevated risers for my upper loop, because my mom and I would like to see it run above both lower loops.

@ScoutingDad posted:

Seth, I was planning to use the chip LEDs from Evans Designs (Forum Sponsor) I have to measure the bulb size on the lamps. I would slice off the shade, drill, glue in the LED, reattach the shade and then run the wires along the goose neck and into the building. The Nano or Pico look to be about the right size. MTH uses wheat type lamps in their passenger cars. I just think they use too much power off the transformer.

After watching a video on lighting HO passenger cars, I like the idea of using magnetic wire connectors between cars, to minimize the need for diodes and to remove some of the power pickup rollers.

Regarding making signs - there are a number of good videos on Model Railroad Academy. Sometimes you can get an annual subscription for next to nothing. Some videos are free. Not sure if the link will work for you, but this one shows how he makes signs from old magazine advertisements. Neat process.

George Sellios signs

Thanks Jeff, now I want to become a member of Model Railroad Academy just to finish watching how he makes his signs! LOL There goes some more money the CEO is going to want to know about! LOL

Connected my Cab 1L to the layout. Boy.....that was hard!

Took a B&O GP-9 for a spin to test it out.

Bob

Thanks @ScoutingDad

Your link did work

And to think anyone with my intelligence could possibly produce such wonderful art.😆

I truly appreciate this thread discussion on signs for our structures and businesses.
hopefully several others may benefit from learning about sign production.

Subway tunnel details are just about finished. Added some piping and chain. Think the ninja turtles may make a fun appearance soon too.

i did do a test fitting and I may have to make some tweaks as the subway bumped it  

Jrmertz, you might consider some puddles and water marks along the wall and ceiling.

jrmertz - nice progress on the subway

Seth - I was looking for another video on painting signs on brick. Can't find it, but did run across this one which uses a similar technique but uses CorelDraw. Interesting idea on scanning the building, then applying the ad onto the scan and using transparency to control bleed through.  If you can find old color ads and use them - that would be the way to go, otherwise scan and print makes sense.

paper signs for buildings

Early this morning I finally figured out/possibly finished my yard/industrial freight area. Still need to balance out with mymilitary base. Have about 4x4 feet at the end of my layout to do so

yard with 2 54” sidings and one 25” siding going by the transfer dock

Whats left of my

military base- to be reorganized

I want a decent transition between the yard/industry - as shown in the next 2 pics

Jeff thanks for the link! Looks do able!

Steve, looks like you have some work ahead of you but you have a nice looking layout! It will be nice to see what you come up with!

I hope everyone has a wonderful week!

My week started out well @mike.g

Monday I visited my local hobby shop in Teays Valley WV. Purchased several Just Plug lighting supplies for my layout hopefully to illuminate the C&O Depot & downtown Olive Hill…Then visited my good friend in Danville to purchase some used O gauge structures to help fill up my voids, including the community bank and local post office once operated so well by Jenny, Mae , an Manford over 60 years ago… they all made a huge impression on me each morning my father took me along to pick up the Mail from box 23. So hopefully being included on my layout will be pay back to each one.

I brought home 9 structures including a flag pole with ole glory flying in the breeze. Each of the 9 will be given a new purpose and an extended life.

I read this morning that June 8th is Best Friends day. I congratulate all the best friends here on the OGR ,

Just doing what each one does best… 😄

@ScoutingDad posted:

jrmertz - nice progress on the subway

Seth - I was looking for another video on painting signs on brick. Can't find it, but did run across this one which uses a similar technique but uses CorelDraw. Interesting idea on scanning the building, then applying the ad onto the scan and using transparency to control bleed through.  If you can find old color ads and use them - that would be the way to go, otherwise scan and print makes sense.

paper signs for buildings

Here is what I do for worn/aged signs on sides of buildings, etc.

I scotch tape a piece of wrapping tissue paper to a piece of typing paper then print the sign I want on the tissue paper side.

Cut out the sign and dab the portion of the building where you want the sign with a little water with a couple drops of Elmer's glue in it. Apply the tissue paper sign to the building by lightly dabbing it into the building's texture with a soft brush. Be careful - the more you dab/wet the more faded/aged the sign becomes.

I have used 2 different methods: Simply glue a paper sign to the finished brickwork. After the glue has thoroughly dried, use a fine grit sandpaper in a sanding block and slowly remove as much of the sign as desired to get the faded effect. Wipe with a damp cloth and clear coat. The other method i have used is to print the sign on a copier using white tissue paper to print on. Then apply with diluted white glue - illustration below.

@modeltrainsparts seems like a good idea to use for the sides of the brick buildings. I feel like I can use this process.

Although my interest is to change the store signs, as I have on the Woodlands Scenic structures.  Say for example from the Market to Kings Dime Store.  Or the H H Feeds to Sparks Feeds.  

All I’m capable of is printing a Word Document on sheets of printing  paper…

Seth, Understand your limits - mine are similar. I made the "Stark's" sign using word, printed on plain paper; then glued an S&H stamp on that paper, copied that page onto plain paper, and then copied that page onto tissue wrapping paper. Good luck.

@modeltrainsparts posted:

Seth, Understand your limits - mine are similar. I made the "Stark's" sign using word, printed on plain paper; then glued an S&H stamp on that paper, copied that page onto plain paper, and then copied that page onto tissue wrapping paper. Good luck.

I have been pleased with the method of printing a sign from pinterest or buying one I like. Seal the sign to protect the color. I sand the back of the paper with 1500 wet or dry sandpaper until it gets thin. Mix white glue and water till it looks like skim milk, soak it till it softens (Careful not too long.) put it in place and gently work the air out as you would with a decal.

Jim, I have used this method - it works great. Just sand slowly and carefully.

Morning guys I know it sounds crazy, but I have a new layout plan that I am thinking about. It's really for 2 reasons, 1) so I can access the minisplit heat/AC unit and 2) cause it looks alot more fun. Below are 2 drawings. The first is what I have now and the 2nd is what I am thinking about. Please give me your honest thoughts! All ideas welcome.

@mike g. posted:

Morning guys I know it sounds crazy, but I have a new layout plan that I am thinking about. It's really for 2 reasons, 1) so I can access the minisplit heat/AC unit and 2) cause it looks alot more fun. Below are 2 drawings. The first is what I have now and the 2nd is what I am thinking about. Please give me your honest thoughts! All ideas welcome.

Mike, the second plan looks more interesting for sure.  What is your plan for accessing the loop tracks in the corners?  Pop up access holes?  Crawl on top?  Get a topside creeper?  Build them so they are hinged and swing out?

Three years ago my knee and back weren’t giving me any trouble.  Now look at me.  Changes in a layout can be a good thing.  Whatever changes you make, make sure you build for accessibility when your body talks back to you.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Mike, the second plan looks more interesting for sure.  What is your plan for accessing the loop tracks in the corners?  Pop up access holes?  Crawl on top?  Get a topside creeper?  Build them so they are hinged and swing out?

Three years ago my knee and back weren’t giving me any trouble.  Now look at me.  Changes in a layout can be a good thing.  Whatever changes you make, make sure you build for accessibility when your body talks back to you.

Hi Mark, I am thinking pop ups for both, the one in the right corner will be just elevated track with the shop area and oil tanks there. The one in the lower left will be open grid on the lower level and the town will go on the upper level with a pop up in the center.

@mike g. posted:

Hi Mark, I am thinking pop ups for both, the one in the right corner will be just elevated track with the shop area and oil tanks there. The one in the lower left will be open grid on the lower level and the town will go on the upper level with a pop up in the center.

Mike, sounds like a plan!  How high is the bottom of your benchwork?  If too low, it could be a hard hat zone.  😄

@Mark Boyce posted:

Mike, sounds like a plan!  How high is the bottom of your benchwork?  If too low, it could be a hard hat zone.  😄

Its close to 36"

@mike g. posted:

Its close to 36"

Sitting on my rolling stool would work.  Did you see the rolling chair GunrunnerJohn Will made for wiring.  It is basically a plastic chair seat with the legs removed mounted on a creeper.  Slick and effective.  Maybe you already have something for when you did your wiring.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Sitting on my rolling stool would work.  Did you see the rolling chair GunrunnerJohn Will made for wiring.  It is basically a plastic chair seat with the legs removed mounted on a creeper.  Slick and effective.  Maybe you already have something for when you did your wiring.

My wiring chair! LOL

@mike g. posted:

My wiring chair! LOL

Mike, You are set!!     If I could get down in that chair, I could take a nap in it!! 

Getting in is not the problem. How do you get out? Is there an ejection lever somewhere? I don't bend like that anymore.

@ScoutingDad posted:

Getting in is not the problem. How do you get out? Is there an ejection lever somewhere? I don't bend like that anymore.

Jeff, you are so correct. It's harder to get out but it's comfortable while in it.

@ScoutingDad posted:

Getting in is not the problem. How do you get out? Is there an ejection lever somewhere? I don't bend like that anymore.

Jeff has a good point.  I could get into the wiring chair once my back heals, but I still wouldn't be able to get out. 

Mike, just so others know, I answered your PM saying the tracks are too close to the walls and the long green spur simply won't fit. I also mentioned the grade was 4.1% and suggested a change to get it closer to 3%.

Mike - the second plan looks better - but - it looks like you cannot really run two trains at the same time because they will be sharing track at the same time - only an issue if you want to let them run by themselves. You lost that in rev2.  The connection between the green and yellow track is a one way in - there is a lot of backing up to get out of the yellow into the green. I do not get reason for the circle in the upper right.

Like everything in this hobby, layouts are driven by what the owner wants not what someone else likes or wants.  For me, if I had the room, I would try to stick with a walk in plan and try to avoid lift outs. Looks to me like you have the space. And I would want to run several trains at the same time - set and forget.

Thanks for the input, its still a work in progress, the upper level will run only on the top level if I leave the switch the curved direction. I am still trying to figure out the lower level so it can do the same thing.

The big thing is I have to make room to service the heat/ac, and make it so I can quit climbing up on the layout.

Ill work on it some more later, I have to get out and do some house painting to keep the CEO Happy!

Mike, here's a way to add a reversing loop on the yellow level. It will require a custom lift-out section. Hopefully, you won't have to use it often, so it doesn't have to be an elaborate powered bridge.

Ok guys from your comments and the help from DoubleDAZ here is what we came up with. Please comment!

Mike, The latest plan works for me.  My grades are 4% and it gave me a great opportunity to double head and add a pusher in front of the caboose.  You can do a lashup of diesels and be fine.  The turnback loops let you go up or down or stay on the top or bottom level.  If the tracks are a bit close to the wall for clearance there is room to adjust away from the walls a bit.  Looks good to me.

Thanks Mark, it's the same incline I have now!

@mike g. posted:

Thanks Mark, it's the same incline I have now!

Excellent!

@Mark Boyce posted:

Excellent!

I'm trying to reuse some of the track that is already down.

I would well come suggestion for my layout.  I'm including two pdf files.  The second has a purple section which will be elevated to run my CTA/Subway cars. All four main loops are separated by insulated center rails.  

There is end to end for the gang cars around the yard.  I know I will need to cut access holes (one is shown).  All curves are 072 except (gang car which is 031, Figure 8 is 054 on one side and 063 around the turntable, coal tipple spur has one section of 063).  The elevated CTA will be using Super O.

Coal Tipple (6-32910) is set 3" below the table top to give me a grade of 2.5%

I am using Lionel tubular track and switches

This is intended to be a TOY train layout with lots of accessories and OMGs for me and my guest.  

I have a variety of engines from GPs to a BigBoy and Veranda.  

Most of my engines are Lionel and a few MTH (PS1 and PS2).

I'm debating wether to use a TIU for the limited amount of engines. Can I run PS-2 engines from my Cab2, if I use a TIU?  Would I have to limit the TIU to specific loops?

I used RR-Track v5.3 to design the layout, if that helps.  

Windy City, that is going to be one heck of a toy layout! I hope you post as you go. It should be fun to watch it come to life!