What did you do on your layout today?

@mike g. posted:

I took @wb47 idea and used flex track as I am going to be short track either way and it looks like it is getting harder and harder to find MTH Scale Trax. So here is what I came up with.

Good to see you got it working well! Personally, I would recommend you move it a couple inches from the pillar just to be safe and so things don't look so cramped. It looks like you had about 4-6 inches between the pillar and the track before, and now you have about 1 inch. Just my two cents, all that matters is you're happy with it and it works reliably

@Sams Trains posted:

Good to see you got it working well! Personally, I would recommend you move it a couple inches from the pillar just to be safe and so things don't look so cramped. It looks like you had about 4-6 inches between the pillar and the track before, and now you have about 1 inch. Just my two cents, all that matters is you're happy with it and it works reliably

The things is I still have an inner loop to do and the return side so to make things smooth it is going to have to stay, My space is limited and I am really doing my best to get what I can. As I said before the 4-8-4 is my biggest iteam and I don't run at Mach 1 so I think I should be good!
I like that you took the time to point that out as I might have missed it ! Thanks again Sam!

@mike g. posted:

The things is I still have an inner loop to do and the return side so to make things smooth it is going to have to stay, My space is limited and I am really doing my best to get what I can. As I said before the 4-8-4 is my biggest iteam and I don't run at Mach 1 so I think I should be good!
I like that you took the time to point that out as I might have missed it ! Thanks again Sam!

I didn't think about that, but you're totally right! The inner loop might restrict what you are able to do with space.That's something you can figure out and play around with once you've got the inner loop track down, if you want. Of course you'll also need to check clearance between inner and outer loop trains! Glad I could help! I constantly change or add things on my layout so I'm in the same boat as you are right now

Chris,

Welcome back. I was about to start one of them threads that says "Has anyone heard from". Boy you sure came back with a bang. Those cars look great. Do you use and airbrush, pastels, or a combination.

Dave

Thanks Dave,   

Weathering:  So the Jade Green NYC Boxcar and the NKP black covered hoppers were dull coated then I applied Pan Pastels, and then sealed them with another coat of Dullcoat.    All the brown, red oxide Metal & Single Sheathed Woodside 50 foot Auto boxcars were done with acrylic washes.  The only exception was 50 foot CB&Q - Burlington Dbl Door Single sheathed Automobile boxcar which I did with an oil base wash.   It worked really well, but it takes more than a day to dry, and I don't have much of the patience gene...

As the weather's been all over the place and I didn't want to dull coat one or two car, I decided to rough up the surface of the Santa Fe 40 ft PS-1, and the B & O Wagon Top boxcars with  0000 Steel wool (SuperFine)....  It actually worked really well, knocked down the bright white lettering took off the high gloss and left a surface that was easy to apply acrylic wash over.   I was anxious to do these two as I already had a wash made up for the 50 foot Santa Fe Woodside Boxcar...

Not sure when I started doing this, but on some areas I sprinkle one or more of the Pan Pastel colors and blend it with the acrylic wash while it's wet.  It makes decent rust spots, just don't over blend it.  Leaves a texture.  I usually use a still short brush to pick up the pastel powder, then tap it to drop the powder as close to where I want it...

Last technique but not least, is I use watercolor pencils to vary the color of a few boards on the woodside cars, easy to control where the color goes.  then put the wash over it. 

Bob, to answer your question, I was pleasantly surprised at the condition of the track and the layout.  Ever since I started cleaning the track with mineral spirits instead of all the other choices, and using the NO-OX - ID Electrical conducting anti-oxidant formula on the blackened center rail, I don't get the awful black buildup on the rails.   It probably helps that everyone of the 40 or so cars that I have converted to Kadees in the last 2 years, gets a "thorough" wheel cleaning with mineral spirits during the conversion.   I had quite a few cars that had the "mysterious" black build up on the wheels.   Yes I probably should have vacuumed, but not too many "cobwebs".   Deciding to "dust" this layout is a serious commitment.

Hey Mike G:   I like the use of the Flex Track,  looks great and makes things run smooth...   chris

Nice progress Mike!  Always good to be able to see a problem, turn on a dime and go with another solution.  I don't think my BigBoy would make that turn. Wondering is my 4-8-4 GS4 Northern would make it either with her big drivers.

Sam layout looks massive, How are you going to build it - looks like there is no room to work without crawling on the layout. And where will you operate from?  If the CEO saw those boxes at the door I would be sleeping with them outside. 

Ballast, dirt and sand application with Elmer's after level and operation checks.

Joey's crossing, don't try this at home, LOL!

@ScoutingDad posted:

Sam layout looks massive, How are you going to build it - looks like there is no room to work without crawling on the layout. And where will you operate from?  If the CEO saw those boxes at the door I would be sleeping with them outside.

Hey there scouting dad! Eagle Scout myself here, and a decorated one if I may say so. I earned all 137 current merit badges, which only 500 or so scouts have done in the entirety of the BSA. Lots more I could go into detail, but long story short I had a great scouting career, learned lots of life skills, and had tons of fun. The railroading badge was my first one of course

But that's off topic. The layout is 14x34. I have actually completed almost all of the benchwork on the layout. This track is for some additions to the bottom layer, which is preventing me from working on the upper level. After this trip I will be making the rest of the benchwork. I have created pop up hatches so I can access hard to reach areas, or inside of tunnels, without having to climb on the layout. I will be doing the same on the upper level. Sure I have to crawl under the layout to get to them, but the majority of my shelving is under there too. In terms of operation, I have a V shaped cutout in the middle of the table, instead of one giant rectangle. This gives me (and visitors!) a much better viewpoint of all the train action, instead of just looking from the flat edge of the table. Makes you feel immersed in the action you know? Feel free to email me for more info, or if you are a part of the LCCA, be on the lookout for an upcoming article featuring more about the building process

Sam, what you have built so far looks great!  Is the first photograph showing engine and rolling stock storage shelves?  Looks nice!

Congratulations on the badges!  There weren’t nearly that many to earn when I was a scout long ago.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Sam, what you have built so far looks great!  Is the first photograph showing engine and rolling stock storage shelves?  Looks nice!

Congratulations on the badges!  There weren’t nearly that many to earn when I was a scout long ago.

Yes it is! They are mirrored on the other side, but the photo was mainly to show how I did them and where they were under the layout

They keep adding badges every year. They added 2 right before I had almost all 135, so I had to pick up the pace. They've also taken some out recently. I forget which one but I think one of the ones I have is discontinued now

Hello everyone! Great work all around and especially you Sam!
Not a lot has changed on the layout as I have been busy with another video. Here is a quick clip that is going to be in it.

While I was running my Big Boy I noticed a buzzing coming from the locomotive. I think the speaker is going out. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement speaker?

Anyways, I should have the video up either on Friday or Saturday. Thanks for reading and good night!

@Trainmaster04 posted:

Hello everyone! Great work all around and especially you Sam!
Not a lot has changed on the layout as I have been busy with another video. Here is a quick clip that is going to be in it.

While I was running my Big Boy I noticed a buzzing coming from the locomotive. I think the speaker is going out. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement speaker?

Anyways, I should have the video up either on Friday or Saturday. Thanks for reading and good night!

Thanks! Excited to see the next video, I've watched your channel for a while. Have you checked with Lionel to see if they have any sitting around? I would do that first, then check with some of the popular mechanics on here like GRJ who might have one or might know how to get one

Today's warm weather put me in the mood for maple sugaring. Here is my sugar shack scene, recently completed.

Bob

@Sams Trains I did look at Lionel’s parts website and could not find anything. I’ll call them tomorrow before I ask John.
Glad you like my channel! I try to get younger people into the hobby and so far my YT channel has done so.

@Bob "O" posted:

Today's warm weather put me in the mood for maple sugaring. Here is my sugar shack scene, recently completed.

Bob

What a great scene and not something you see modeled often. You really captured the look with details like the post-warmup left over snow piles, hay for horse, wood shed and tracks in the woods from the sled. ~Joe

Wow. Listen--don't taste any of that fresh syrup until it has a cooled for a LONG time. And give that horse some grain with the hay--sledging this late in the thaw is tough going!

@Bob "O" posted:

Today's warm weather put me in the mood for maple sugaring. Here is my sugar shack scene, recently completed.

Bob

Bob, that is a very unique and well done scene. You should submit that for publication in OGR.

Jay

@chris a- Which No-Ox-Id do you use? Looking on line I see a few different types.
@mike g.- good catch on your 4-8-4 Mike. The new track arrangement looks more realistic too. Did you check your auto racks and husky stacks too?
@Bob "O"- the sugar shack scene looks great. The smoke billowing out the top is very well done.
@Sams Trains  @Trainmaster04- good to see some younger guys getting involved. You are both doing nice work.
@SIRT- making good progress on the refurbished module. I like that each time you take a picture, the flip sign changes stations.....

Bob

NO-OX-ID A-Special- Electrical Contact Grease-

.. and a picture finishing up Heavyweight cleaning, touch-up painting, and LED light upgrades

good morning Bob:   I purchased the one in the link below through amazon...  on sale right now...

NO-OX-ID-A special

I watched several YouTube videos on track cleaning, which also describe the benefits of using Mineral Spirits (Low Odor) to clean the track and then follow with the No-OX-ID-A special.   Personally I'd say every I have experienced everyone of the benefits described.   As it's not compatible with "traction tires",  I chose to only use it on the blackened center rail of my Gargraves/Ross track and I apply to the carbon cast pick up rollers on all my engines, passenger cars, cabooses etc.   I don't have links to the videos handy at the moment, sorry.   Here's the Amazon Link for the NO-OX

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bob,   Yes there are many videos and opinions on track cleaning, here's the one that sold me on changing from using solvents and purchasing the NO-OX-ID-A special...   

Not trying to start a "how to best clean your track" debate here.  Just sharing what's working for me and how I arrived at this solution.     

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...YxjcTWCB0&t=682s

I framed the floor to what will be a curved viaduct over a valley

Repositioned the supporting girder and legs of this table to make it wider and more stable. (I've yet to screw down any of decking)

Added 2x4 braces to legs which added a lot of table stability.  Still need to add cross bracing between legs)

Added a floor board to valley viaduct.   When complete should be about 8" high

Follow layout build progress on my Youtube channel:

https://youtube.com/playlist?l...XUabwe3Flflo8KMYxff6

Finished 2 projects. Frist required the elevated support to be changed and moved.  Although the Triplex is rated of O72 curves, I wanted to see if it could negotiate O60 curves.  I wanted to be able to move it onto my inner loop.  It can, no problem, but the original pillar on this part of the curve needed to be moved.  Also, since installing the upper level track, the area under it around the crane, loading dock, etc. was very shaded.  So, I also decided to install LEDs.  So, I moved the pillar and replaced the dowel with a piece of PVC so I could run power to the LEDs.  Turned out better than I had hoped.

Pillar replacement (Pillar is plumb, trust me... )

Before LED installed

After LEDs.

Good news! Called Lionel and they do indeed have a replacement speaker for my Big Boy available. I am going to get it ordered later today as well as a replacement smoke unit motor for another engine.

@chris a posted:

good morning Bob:   I purchased the one in the link below through amazon...  on sale right now...

NO-OX-ID-A special

I watched several YouTube videos on track cleaning, which also describe the benefits of using Mineral Spirits (Low Odor) to clean the track and then follow with the No-OX-ID-A special.   Personally I'd say every I have experienced everyone of the benefits described.   As it's not compatible with "traction tires",  I chose to only use it on the blackened center rail of my Gargraves/Ross track and I apply to the carbon cast pick up rollers on all my engines, passenger cars, cabooses etc.   I don't have links to the videos handy at the moment, sorry.   Here's the Amazon Link for the NO-OX

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Chris, You and everyone else make this forum a treasure trove of good information. I was intrigued with using this on my track but the not for "traction tires" put me off. However using it on the center rail and pick up rollers is obvious now that you showed me. LOL I just ordered a jar and will use as prescribed. btw what is your routine for outer rails? Thanks John

John,  thanks for the kind words.  My routine for the outer rails was to wrap some old white cotton sock rags around a wooden block,  soak it with the Mineral spirits and wipe down the rails.   All my track is weathered with rustoleum camoulfage brown paint and I didn't want to start removing the weathering.  By using the wooden block, I can keep the mineral spirits and the cleaning action contained to the top of the rails.    I haven't had to go back and do it since I did it over a year ago.   I have also made a point to check the wheel sets of all my cars, and I have gotten much more serious about cleaning them, especially checking any used stuff I buy at train shows, the OGR forum etc.   It's pretty common buying second hand cars that the wheels are pretty dirty.    For that job, I wrap the blue shop paper towels around a 1/4 x 1/4 inch piece of square stock, soak it with mineral spirits and rotate the axles till I get all the crud off. 

@Aegis21 posted:

Chris, You and everyone else make this forum a treasure trove of good information. I was intrigued with using this on my track but the not for "traction tires" put me off. However using it on the center rail and pick up rollers is obvious now that you showed me. LOL I just ordered a jar and will use as prescribed. btw what is your routine for outer rails? Thanks John

Chris , I don't know if you have to worry about the outer rails if you have certain types of switches.

On the MTH Realtrax switches the material on the center rail does get SLIGHTLY transferred to the outside rails.

  If you use the No-Ox as instructed on the center rails there shouldn't be enough getting on the outside rails to be of concern for the traction tires.

@ToledoEd posted:

Finished 2 projects. Frist required the elevated support to be changed and moved.  Although the Triplex is rated of O72 curves, I wanted to see if it could negotiate O60 curves.  I wanted to be able to move it onto my inner loop.  It can, no problem, but the original pillar on this part of the curve needed to be moved.  Also, since installing the upper level track, the area under it around the crane, loading dock, etc. was very shaded.  So, I also decided to install LEDs.  So, I moved the pillar and replaced the dowel with a piece of PVC so I could run power to the LEDs.  Turned out better than I had hoped.

Pillar replacement (Pillar is plumb, trust me... )

Before LED installed

After LEDs.

Nice job Ed'.. The pike is now lit'.....😉🌟✔

@chris a posted:

John,  thanks for the kind words.  My routine for the outer rails was to wrap some old white cotton sock rags around a wooden block,  soak it with the Mineral spirits and wipe down the rails.   

Chris , does the mineral spirits dry after a certain amount of time and not affect the traction tires ?

I'm certainly impressed with your not having to go back over the rails in over a year

Dallas,  yes it does dry (evaporate), but I did forget to mention that I used 2 blocks one wet, one dry to rub off the residue.  Another senior moment !!!   

@chris a posted:

Dallas,  yes it does dry (evaporate), but I did forget to mention that I used 2 blocks one wet, one dry to rub off the residue.  Another senior moment !!!   

" Another senior moment !!! "  ..........sure is good to have the WISDOM to go along with that.

Last night was particularly fun on the Invocation of the Incongruous layout.  In one case, I included a static photo (the drawbridge) because the video was too big a file.

The overview (which shows a lamentably messy layout) of the Invocation of the Incongruous.  The point of this layout was primarily technical -- could I build a suitably fat oval of O72 curves and switches to run my Pioneer Zephyr three car consist? (The answer was a satisfying yes).  That done, I wanted to see whether I could add menards tubular track with Lionel transition pieces.  That also worked.  Why would I want to mix tubular and Fastrack?  Because some of my accessories (like the Animated Maiden and the drawbridge, which I added last night) simply don't mesh with Fastrack, but also because I am planning a layout where bump-and-go trolleys run on tubular, while more lengthy long distance consists (like the Zephyr, the New York Central, and some of my LionChief consists) run on the Fastrack at the same time.  There will be elevated tracks for some of that layout.  The other reason I mixed the Fastrack and tubular was to figure out the wiring and distribution of power so no consist ever slows down at the curve farthest from me.  Yes, Power Districts are in my future, but I'm not there yet because I don't know what gauge wire or distribution units I want to use, yet.

In the process of cleaning and repairing a 2046 for a chum. 

Siderods before:

And after:

Mitch

Hi Sam, great layout a good luck and keep us posted really like you track setup!

Alan

Set up the Automatic Milk Car tonight.  So many wires under this layout I think I may need to take out a larger life insurance policy, lol

@M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

... cleaning and repairing a 2046 for a chum.

Siderods before: - And after: ...

did you just brush them or nickel-dip them? they look nice

Had some time today so was able to fit & solder the upper turnaround tracks.  Soldering has become less frustrating for me due to tips picked up on this forum, thks to all.  
   And since “if there isn’t video of it - did it really happen ?” I have included a short clip of my Trainmaster checking out the track.

Rich in SD

Bob o. I usually don't comment on this forum much but you're sugar shack is over the top .that's what us old timers call uptown . Well done.

@woodsyT posted:

did you just brush them or nickel-dip them? they look nice

https://www.amazon.com/Klingsp...-Block/dp/B000GAML4W 

Works great!