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@Steve Tyler- That's quite a lot of creativity you packed into a neat scene. I'm sure the grand kids (and big kids), will enjoy the action. If it were me, I'd would take it to the next level and mount a LED spot light from the ceiling to power the solar cells..... We are going to be building a 315 KW solar PV system on one of our buildings later this year.

@OhB1- congrats on the first full run! That's going to be an action packed layout.

@mike g.- glad you found all the gremlins. I don't know why they don't clean off the top of the rail after blackening it.

Bob

Morning guys I hope you all have a wonderful weekend planned! As for me I am going to spend it cleaning up some and do some more plywood painting and paint the sides of the new track I put down yesterday.

@Steve Tyler Thant is cool, really going to look great on the layout!

@OhB1 Wonderful! Nice to see all 4 running! I hope the fix on the incline was an easy one!

I will check in later today to see what's new!

I hope everyone finds time to have fun with there layouts and trains!

@RSJB18 posted:

@Steve Tyler- That's quite a lot of creativity you packed into a neat scene. I'm sure the grand kids (and big kids), will enjoy the action. If it were me, I'd would take it to the next level and mount a LED spot light from the ceiling to power the solar cells..... We are going to be building a 315 KW solar PV system on one of our buildings later this year.

Thanks, Bob! FWIW, I *did* briefly consider some "spotlight on the solar cells" options, but then decided to go in the portable, kid-operable direction. Now, if I can just keep them from blinding themselves and each other with the spotlight beams . . .

[Hmmm, come to think of it, maybe I should rethink the "fixed beam" options . . . ]

Oh, and good luck with the solar installation! In a way, my whole layout is "solar powered", at least in part or seasonally -- we're nearly a decade in with our leased solar system, which was projected to provide roughly 2/3rd of our annual electrical supply needs (29 panels, 7.25KWh). As it works out, about half the year we run a surplus, and the utility sends *us* a check!

So I spent some time just putting stuff out and kind of brain storming. First I laid out the sidings that will go inside the upper loop. Before I get to far I want your opinion on something. I am thinking about just installing the track in the first photo directly to the plywood. There will be hardly and noise from train travel and nothing will be moving fast! LOL

20230401_115442

Then I just started pulling building out from under the layout and placing them here and there just trying to get an idea of where I might want things. I am also open to your suggestions on this. 20230401_13575820230401_13574520230401_121034

If you look close in the photo below behind the gas station you will see a 4" X  6" post, the tailing edge of that will have to be shaved off by an 1/8th of an inch. Both engines will go by it but both also rub on the front right side.

Well today I think I will do a little post shaving and then work on getting my airfield back up in its new place.

I hope you all are having a great weekend and finding time to have fun with your layout and trains!

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Got my first Tortoise switch motor installed with a Ross turnout.  Here is a short video showing why there is no need to use non-derailing wiring for this combination.  In my experience the DZ springs were a little too strong and would derail most rolling stock.  This location will be covered by scenery and while I will be able to get to it underneath the layout, I wanted a bullet proof machine/turnout combination.  Note how easily the trucks open the points to pass through the turnout.

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Tortoise anti-derailing
@ScoutingDad posted:

Got my first Tortoise switch motor installed with a Ross turnout.  Here is a short video showing why there is no need to use non-derailing wiring for this combination.  In my experience the DZ springs were a little too strong and would derail most rolling stock.  This location will be covered by scenery and while I will be able to get to it underneath the layout, I wanted a bullet proof machine/turnout combination.  Note how easily the trucks open the points to pass through the turnout.

Looks great Jeff, nice and smooth! The joint has a little work needed!LOL

@ScoutingDad posted:

Got my first Tortoise switch motor installed with a Ross turnout.  Here is a short video showing why there is no need to use non-derailing wiring for this combination.  In my experience the DZ springs were a little too strong and would derail most rolling stock.  This location will be covered by scenery and while I will be able to get to it underneath the layout, I wanted a bullet proof machine/turnout combination.  Note how easily the trucks open the points to pass through the turnout.

@ScoutingDad

I have been considering replacing my switch motors with Tortoises. What do you use to cut the slot in your platform for the connection spring?

Thank you.

Something different. This is a wooden Howe truss car float transfer bridge. It follows the designing of such bridges the B&O used at its West 26th Street NY freight terminal as well as its St. George Yard on Staten Island.

It has been 'selectively compressed' as it needs to fit on a module. The prototype bridges were over 100' long. The model is a scale 60' long. Prototype bridges were about 46' wide.  The model is about 38' wide, but a full-sized O scale freight car can fit on its tracks.

This is intended to be a scenery item. However there a few O scale modelers with a lot of space have used them with car floats to become an interchange point for their layout. But a full-scale car float would be nearly 7' long!  Add that to a transfer bridge nearly 3' long and you have swallowed a sizable chunk of 1/4" to the foot real estate!

The trusses of the bridge have their own story to tell. They came from West Australia in 2000. The modeler who built them changed his plans and sent them to me.  I had hoped to make such a bridge for my Baltimore & New York layout in 2004.

But within a few years, advancing age and its changes forced a move to smaller accommodations. I no longer have a large layout (the one I am working now, when I can is a shelf, 3 1/2' x 32'. So, I built it for a fellow O gauge modeler who will be getting it soon. This project took a lot more milled wood and nut-bolt -washer details in two sizes than one might imagine.  The most difficult detail item to find was four ship's wheels at 1" diameter. They are on the two winches used to tie up a car float.

Bridge 88

The two sets of white capped pilings are for guiding a car float to the bridge. The prototype would have two additional sets of pilings at about 60' and 120' out to assist in lining up a car float for the bridge.

The dock/walkway beside the transfer bridge with the tall pilings is where a second car float would be tied up while the other car float was at the bridge, being worked by the yard switching crew.  Most car float moves with tugboats were made with two car floats at a time.

S. Islander

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  • Bridge 88
  • Bridge 89: Shore end of the transfer bridge. Its sits on a large steel pontoon which rises and falls with the tide.
  • Bridge 90: Side view, showing pilings that keep the pontoon in place under the bridge, the tie up winch gearbox for this side and the dock/walkway.
  • Bridge 91: Overview of the transfer bridge and its tracks.
  • Bridge 92: Shore end view. This end of the bridge rests on a large round trunnion (a huge log, actually) set into bearings that allow this end of the bridge to rotate as the outer end rises and falls with the tide.
  • Bridge 93: Overview from the shore end.  The bridge is 2-rail, specified by the modeler getting it.  It will be installed on a 3-rail modular layout.
  • Bridge 94: Warning signs for the yard switching crew. A brakeman rides each cut of cars being loaded or unloaded.
  • Bridge 95: All the components ready to be boxed, then packed for hopefully damage free delivery.
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@Randy Harrison  Randy - after marking the location and throw of the drawbar, I happened to use a 9/64ths bit but 1/8 inch would work just fine.  I just drilled holes at each end and then kept drilling until I had it mostly opened up. Running the bit at an angle will clear out the rest of the excess wood. Then use a small file to clean up each side and the rough drilled surfaces. I am sure you could get by with a much smaller size, the wire is tiny, I just wanted enough play to align everything properly. Getting the wire into the drawbar hole was the biggest challenge. I ended up mounting the wire to the Tortoise and extending it through the road bed and into the throw. My son helped guide it into the hole. Just like threading a needle, just that this thread is stiff.  BTW I posted earlier on the electronics to connect and throw the tortoise - I suggest taking a look them - I am very pleased with them.

@mike g.  I bought a bunch of used Ross turnouts for around $30 each 3 years ago. Ones with a DZ usually were another $10 or so, sometimes not. I think this one is a #4. I'll have to go back and clean it up a bit and de-solder the feed wire. I prefer to solder under the rails or just use the wired track pins. (They are brittle though.) I am not a fan of the pin gap, but see no real way around it - no, I am not soldering track together.  That leads me to a comment about Atlas track - no pin gaps - that I like.

Finally got down to the train room and made some progress on the Viaduct scene.  Masked off some more "concrete highway" and painted it as close as I could get to what I did about 3 years ago....  Got the main line track back together after building the deck under bridge so I am able to run trains again.   Also while I had all the scenery materials out, grass, dirt static grass etc.  I finished the ground cover adjacent to the viaduct scene (to the right of the Viaduct in the photos), and finished the slope that had been bare white fiber fill over styrofoam blocks over by "Union Station".....   Now I just have to complete the highway, the road bridge over the creek and figure out the water for the small creek running through 2 of the 8 arches in the viaduct..... 

Turned on the background colored LED's shining up on the "BackDrop" today, for the first time in a long time, put the camera in Manual mode and took a couple of dusk evening photos....   Finally got motivated yesterday and covered the back side of the large industrial building with black styrene so the lights in the building weren't shining on the back drop in that corner....  Only took me 2 + years to get to that item on the To Do List !



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@chris a posted:

Finally got down to the train room and made some progress on the Viaduct scene.  Masked off some more "concrete highway" and painted it as close as I could get to what I did about 3 years ago....  Got the main line track back together after building the deck under bridge so I am able to run trains again.   Also while I had all the scenery materials out, grass, dirt static grass etc.  I finished the ground cover adjacent to the viaduct scene (to the right of the Viaduct in the photos), and finished the slope that had been bare white fiber fill over styrofoam blocks over by "Union Station".....   Now I just have to complete the highway, the road bridge over the creek and figure out the water for the small creek running through 2 of the 8 arches in the viaduct.....

Turned on the background colored LED's shining up on the "BackDrop" today, for the first time in a long time, put the camera in Manual mode and took a couple of dusk evening photos....   Finally got motivated yesterday and covered the back side of the large industrial building with black styrene so the lights in the building weren't shining on the back drop in that corner....  Only took me 2 + years to get to that item on the To Do List !



DSC01247

Like everything else in your empire Chris, it looks spectacular.

Jay

Jay  thanks for the kind words. 

Mark Boyce,  I was just going back and reading some posts I missed.  I read your post about some problematic joints in the Gargraves/Ross track.   I remember reading years ago, can't remember where, that for some reason either Ross or Gargraves or both tend to slope down at the ends.

I think they were referring to the long flex Gargraves sections 37 inch, but I have added shims to a bunch of joints that for whatever reason just weren't smooth.  It's typically a thin shim, like 032", 040", maybe up to 060" (1/16").  I usually make the shims about 1.5" to 2.0" long slip them under the first 2 ties at the joint then screw it back down and it makes a huge difference.   Just a thought.  I think this problem is made worse when we install flexible compressible cork road bed underneath, cause it depresses under the deflection and doesn't smooth out the transition. 

March was quite a month. We had 40+ feet of retaining walls, 6 tunnels, rear level 2 ballast, and a turnout punch list to complete, and finished yesterday. Thank goodness Rich and Paula were available to help.

Now we have four sets of shelves to install and shelves will be complete.

Sorry, will try to catch up on everyone’s progress later this week.

I read a question about how to make a place for a Tortoise wire to fit thru. We simply drill a hole wide enough for one to work and are done with it.

Also, the wire can be difficult to pass thru a Ross turnout. We have two benches that are about a foot off the floor and lie on one under the turnout hole. We have the turnout motor prepared with the wire, drill, screws, and two sided tape. Position yourself so that you can see thru  the hole, pass the wire thru, adjust position so there is good tension in both directions, press the tape against the plywood, drill hole, insert screws, and you should have a properly attached turnout motor.

Steve sells indicator lights that look great and non-solder wiring connectors are available on the internet.

If anyone needs help, send me an e-mail. We have installed 50+, the latest yesterday.



Right rear side. My nephew’s son Jack is helping glue the retaining walls

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Rear tunnels and retaining walls

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this is not the type of photo I intended to upload to this thread today, but here we are:

Context: I decided the way to get my simple tmcc layout working was to remove the lock-on and run a single cable from the outside rail to the U post of my cab1 base.  Then, I removed my 80 watt transformer (which accompanied my ny central conventional opassenger consist) and replaced it with my Post-war ZW.  Following the instructions that came with the cab1/base1, I did the following:

  1. switched the reverse unit from 'run' to 'prog' on the zephyr engine
  2. verified the base1 was powered on (via green light)
  3. powered zw all the way on (this is attached to fastrack via lionel brand wire, solid black from outside rail to U post on the zw; black with white stripe from center/hot rail to red/A post on the ZW.
  4. placed engine on track, verified all the lights were on
  5. with cab1 remote, pressed 'eng,' '90'*, and 'set; engine made confirmation whistle
  6. placed engine in 'run' mode, pressed 'eng' and '90' before twisting the dial to throttle it up and make it go.  Which it did not...


but the cable did... it went up in smoke, which I took as a cue to unplug everything and go outside the house, get exercise

* I selected '90' because the engine number is 99 and I know the cab1 stores engines 1 to 99, and just as I never pick an IPv4 address of XXX.YYY.ZZZ.0 or 254, I was not about to assign the zephyr an engine address of 99 or 00, though I did try 1.

I'm missing something obvious here -- the batteries in the remote clearly work, as I can trigger a whistle blow after addressing the engine, but I can't make it go, and it's not clear what I'm missing here -- but at least "what I did on my layout today" can be chalked up to simulating east Palestine, Ohio, without the derailment.

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  • zapped

@PeterB  I assume you wired up according to this earlier link  TMCC wiring  also the wall wart connecting to the TMCC is the Lionel version - it is not a typical 12v transformer.

After confirming the transformer is working properly, although smoking wires should have tripped its fuse/breaker, check for a short on the layout. Could be the wire itself was bad, caused high current draw, overheating and the smoke.  I tend to use 16 gauge stranded speaker wire for these connections. I have never been a fan of the wires used to go to the lockons. To me they are way too undersized. This may have been the issue, that burned up wire looks like 20 gauge solid.

@Steve Tyler posted:

Well, while technically not ON the layout, my latest project will eventually be featured there, so I guess this qualifies!

In its current form, this project is really the latest iteration of several on-going projects and guiding development principles, including my on-going "button" project (coming up with button-activated features to amuse the grandkids), my continuing efforts to recycle and repurpose old materials and electronics, and my frequent efforts to utilize non-train-related items on the layout.

So, what is the project? After a lot of contemplation and false starts, it has evolved into a set of renewable-energy-themed features, including an operating windmill, two working solar panels, and a solar and wind powered billboard.

Specifically, I came across an inexpensive solar-powered model windmill on line a month or two ago, and ordered one after discovering it was close enough to O scale (at least by the loose "Big L" standards!) to be considered for incorporation into the layout. It worked as advertised, but needed direct sunlight or very bright artificial light (both in short supply near my basement layout!) directly on the solar cell in the base to operate. I found the windmill's motor would instead run on other sources as long as they provided as little as a volt and a half, and no more than 3 or 4 volts (not coincidentally roughly the output of the OEM solar cell) before it spun too fast. So, I needed an alternate power source.

By chance, I had recently replaced a pair of solar spotlights, which I had deconstructed earlier with the intention of salvaging the LED spots and adding them to the Arduino based "thunderstorm simulation" I had put together and installed on the layout. Among the remnants left over were a pair of solar cells and two rechargeable batteries. The solar cells were each nicely mounted in a rectangular plastic case, which when opened left the cell in a flat rectangular surround resembling a solar array. Bingo! A bit of fiddling, and I was able to confirm the cells still produced usable power (enough to spin the windmill), and came up with a plan to mount each of them on a stalk, like some prototype solar arrays.

For kid-friendly light sources that could be directed toward  the solar cells on the layout, I decided to use some LED flashlights I had on hand, but they were not quite bright enough to reliably spin the windmill. So, I tried to come up with some alternate or supplemental power source. As it happened, both the rechargeable batteries and a standard alkaline AA battery had enough juice to spin the windmill, so I decided to add a button under the edge of the layout (like the one in this video) to send extra battery juice to the windmill.

While all this was in progress, my thoughts turned to alternate ways to use and display the energy I'd be generating and/or supplementing. Recently, I was sent a 100-pack of the wrong type of LEDs, so I checked to see if they could be powered by my devices. Bingo again! A little more thought, and I came up with a foam board construction surrounding sixteen color-changing and flashing LEDs chained together to provide a backlight for a renewable-themed billboard, which will light up whenever the solar cells are generating or the supplemental power button is pressed. I finished the LED string fabrication last night (some of the most fiddly soldering I've ever had to do BTW!) and everything worked! Now I'm waiting for the glue to dry, so I can close it all up. Here's a video of the LEDs in operation, behind the gloss finish laser printed renewable energy graphic I plan to use as the billboard pic:

Meanwhile, I discovered that a single alkaline cell was not powerful enough to light the new sign, so I settled on the nominal 3.2 volt rechargeable cell instead. The only problem: they must be recharged eventually, there's no recharger, and the push button's LED would create a small but continuous drain, resulting in eventual discharge of the battery!

A bit of research, and I found the retired solar spotlight's 3.2 volt Lithium Iron Phosphate cell needed a recharge voltage of between 3.5 and 3.65 volts. Easy-peasy -- I cut the molded battery holder free from the old enclosure, connected it to an AC to DC voltage converter (which I set to 3.58 volts), and voila!, the rechargeable battery recharged (from less than three volts to 3.26 volts) in a matter of minutes. There's also a slide switch from the remnants I may be able to use to easily disconnect the battery when not in use.

So, as currently planned, I will end up with a roughly scale windmill, two pedestal-mounted solar panels, and a "solar powered" and renewable-energy-themed billboard, which can be activated (windmill turns, billboard lights up) when either beams of light are focused on the solar panels, or the under-layout button is pushed. Stay tuned . . .

Quick update: I got a burst of energy late yesterday, and completed the wiring and installation in time for the grand-kids visit today! As it turned out, *none* of the flashlight options were strong enough to light the sign or spin the windmill appreciably (or very possibly, the wiring on the solar cells was not quite right), so I just sold it to them as "helping" the windmill. Also, as anticipated, the LED in the switch does leak enough current to keep the windmill spinning slowly even when the button is not being depressed, which is actually kind of nice since in that state it spins at a more prototypical speed. Here's a short clip of the finished installation in action:

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@mike g. posted:

So I spent some time just putting stuff out and kind of brain storming. First I laid out the sidings that will go inside the upper loop. Before I get to far I want your opinion on something. I am thinking about just installing the track in the first photo directly to the plywood. There will be hardly and noise from train travel and nothing will be moving fast! LOL

20230401_115442

Then I just started pulling building out from under the layout and placing them here and there just trying to get an idea of where I might want things. I am also open to your suggestions on this. 20230401_13575820230401_13574520230401_121034

If you look close in the photo below behind the gas station you will see a 4" X  6" post, the tailing edge of that will have to be shaved off by an 1/8th of an inch. Both engines will go by it but both also rub on the front right side.

Well today I think I will do a little post shaving and then work on getting my airfield back up in its new place.

I hope you all are having a great weekend and finding time to have fun with your layout and trains!

Well done, Mike! It's also a lot of fun moving stuff around and thinking about the possibilities!

Peter

@chris a posted:

Finally got down to the train room and made some progress on the Viaduct scene.  Masked off some more "concrete highway" and painted it as close as I could get to what I did about 3 years ago....  Got the main line track back together after building the deck under bridge so I am able to run trains again.   Also while I had all the scenery materials out, grass, dirt static grass etc.  I finished the ground cover adjacent to the viaduct scene (to the right of the Viaduct in the photos), and finished the slope that had been bare white fiber fill over styrofoam blocks over by "Union Station".....   Now I just have to complete the highway, the road bridge over the creek and figure out the water for the small creek running through 2 of the 8 arches in the viaduct.....

Turned on the background colored LED's shining up on the "BackDrop" today, for the first time in a long time, put the camera in Manual mode and took a couple of dusk evening photos....   Finally got motivated yesterday and covered the back side of the large industrial building with black styrene so the lights in the building weren't shining on the back drop in that corner....  Only took me 2 + years to get to that item on the To Do List !



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Looks great! bravo!

Peter

@PeterB posted:

this is not the type of photo I intended to upload to this thread today, but here we are:

Context: I decided the way to get my simple tmcc layout working was to remove the lock-on and run a single cable from the outside rail to the U post of my cab1 base.  Then, I removed my 80 watt transformer (which accompanied my ny central conventional opassenger consist) and replaced it with my Post-war ZW.  Following the instructions that came with the cab1/base1, I did the following:

  1. switched the reverse unit from 'run' to 'prog' on the zephyr engine
  2. verified the base1 was powered on (via green light)
  3. powered zw all the way on (this is attached to fastrack via lionel brand wire, solid black from outside rail to U post on the zw; black with white stripe from center/hot rail to red/A post on the ZW.
  4. placed engine on track, verified all the lights were on
  5. with cab1 remote, pressed 'eng,' '90'*, and 'set; engine made confirmation whistle
  6. placed engine in 'run' mode, pressed 'eng' and '90' before twisting the dial to throttle it up and make it go.  Which it did not...


but the cable did... it went up in smoke, which I took as a cue to unplug everything and go outside the house, get exercise

* I selected '90' because the engine number is 99 and I know the cab1 stores engines 1 to 99, and just as I never pick an IPv4 address of XXX.YYY.ZZZ.0 or 254, I was not about to assign the zephyr an engine address of 99 or 00, though I did try 1.

I'm missing something obvious here -- the batteries in the remote clearly work, as I can trigger a whistle blow after addressing the engine, but I can't make it go, and it's not clear what I'm missing here -- but at least "what I did on my layout today" can be chalked up to simulating east Palestine, Ohio, without the derailment.

First I would confirm that the ZW works properly. Set it up without the Cab 1 and test, check voltage outputs, etc.
As Jeff said, the wire looks pretty small. Get something bigger (14-16 ga stranded).
Do you have multiple power drops or just the one? Multiple is better.
Old transformers don't provide adequate over-current and short circuit protection for command engines. You should add a fast-acting circuit breaker and TVSS diode to each power drop.

2021-11-27 15.10.372021-11-27 16.21.14

It appears that your Cab 1 program was accepted in the engine so I would examine the power side. Also, command engines don't need more than 18v. You mentioned "all the way up" on the ZW, again, check the voltage outputs.

Bob

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Many thanks for the detailed response, @RSJB18 -- that was what I was hoping to elicit. A couple notes for ruling stuff out, and after this, I'll take this to the Lionel LMCC thread, so as not to clutter the "layout...today" space, which should not be full of this type note:

  • I've got larger stranded cable -- I had used the Lionel branded cable just to keep everything same-brand for simplicity
  • I have verified that *without* any tmcc components, the zw works fine as a conventional transformer
  • I did have the zw throttled above 18v, and I suspect that was a factor.
  • I only had one power drop for the transformer and one drop for the cab, but as this was deliberately a single oval because I thought it easier to make a simple lay-out and work out TMCC issue with the fewest complications possible.  Once I get that worked out, more loop of track, more power drops.


@ScoutingDad -- thanks for reminding me of that link, I need to revisit that.

This is actually a good side note to comment on -- I found myself wondering whether the lights and failure of my zephyr engine could be the consequence of overloading the circuit and frying something internal.  Perhaps if I'd had some circuit protection, I wouldn't have all the issues I've encountered (and yes, I juiced the circuit with 19-20v, instead of 18v because the written instructions that came with my cab appeared to suggest I should have my transformer at full power before addressing the engine -- I see what an error in my reading comprehension that proved to be!).  I had also tried the 80 watt conventional transformer and the lights in the engine flickered weakly, which is when and why I put the ZW on the line.

@PeterB posted:

This is actually a good side note to comment on -- I found myself wondering whether the lights and failure of my zephyr engine could be the consequence of overloading the circuit and frying something internal.  Perhaps if I'd had some circuit protection, I wouldn't have all the issues I've encountered (and yes, I juiced the circuit with 19-20v, instead of 18v because the written instructions that came with my cab appeared to suggest I should have my transformer at full power before addressing the engine -- I see what an error in my reading comprehension that proved to be!).  I had also tried the 80 watt conventional transformer and the lights in the engine flickered weakly, which is when and why I put the ZW on the line.

YIKES  Pete.   Is there any indication that the Zephyr has any life ? 

@PeterB posted:

Many thanks for the detailed response, @RSJB18 -- that was what I was hoping to elicit. A couple notes for ruling stuff out, and after this, I'll take this to the Lionel LMCC thread, so as not to clutter the "layout...today" space, which should not be full of this type note:

  • I've got larger stranded cable -- I had used the Lionel branded cable just to keep everything same-brand for simplicity
  • I have verified that *without* any tmcc components, the zw works fine as a conventional transformer
  • I did have the zw throttled above 18v, and I suspect that was a factor.
  • I only had one power drop for the transformer and one drop for the cab, but as this was deliberately a single oval because I thought it easier to make a simple lay-out and work out TMCC issue with the fewest complications possible.  Once I get that worked out, more loop of track, more power drops.


@ScoutingDad -- thanks for reminding me of that link, I need to revisit that.

I’m late to the party and while I agree with the previous comments about the wiring and protection; something else jumped out at me. You put power on the track before you put the loco on the track. The engine should be on the track in program mode and then apply the power and put the code in and press set. When that’s successful you should power down. Move the switch from program to run reapply power and address your engine.

@PeterB posted:

This is actually a good side note to comment on -- I found myself wondering whether the lights and failure of my zephyr engine could be the consequence of overloading the circuit and frying something internal.  Perhaps if I'd had some circuit protection, I wouldn't have all the issues I've encountered (and yes, I juiced the circuit with 19-20v, instead of 18v because the written instructions that came with my cab appeared to suggest I should have my transformer at full power before addressing the engine -- I see what an error in my reading comprehension that proved to be!).  I had also tried the 80 watt conventional transformer and the lights in the engine flickered weakly, which is when and why I put the ZW on the line.

FWIW, I don't think going from 18 to 19-20 volts would by itself cause your feeder wire to go up in smoke -- it sounds like you have some form of dead short, at least intermittently, on that track loop or somewhere in the rolling stock. The ZW can easily muster enough "juice" to fry a feeder connection without popping its internal circuit breaker -- I had it happen to me on my elevated trolley line, with billows of smoke above and below the layout, when a trolley derailed and shorted across the rails, which incidentally prompted me to install 5 amp thermal circuit breakers on each throttle circuit, and so far I haven't had any "smoke signals" since (plenty of tripped circuit breakers, but absolutely no further damage!).

BTW, such a dead or intermittent short might have been the root cause of the 80 watt transformer's apparent "insufficiency", rather than just lack of power. IOW, if it had had more power, *it* would likely have fried the feeder wire before the ZW got a chance to do the deed!

Morning guys I hope your all doing well, first a couple comments and then a quick update of not a lot! LOL

@chris a Chris wow gone for a little bit and man you come back like a storm! Very motivated, Looking great!

@scottyhubcaps Scott looking good, that sure is going to be a good size layout! The only room we have the big in out house is the living room and I know the CEO would never let that happen! LOL

@Bill Webb Bill things are really looking amazing! It sure is nice that you have extra help!

@luvindemtrains Dave looks amazing! I also like the video you posted on your own build thread.

@p51 Lee you sure produce some of the nicest B&W Photos! You should produce a photo book!

Well guys as for me I did get a little more time in the train room, but didn't get much done, I was moving trains around and that darn 4-8-4 kept shorting out on the switch below. I took some liquid electrical tape and covered the point and side of the frog to see if that would help. If I go fast enough it is ok, but if I go slow it stops and sets off the red light one the Z4000. If you look closely you can see 2 pencell marks, that is roughly where the front and rear pick up rollers are.

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While backing back out of the switch when I got the engine back far enough to get power I found out that the tender will pull threw the curve but will not back threw it! LOL Rough lesson to learn!

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Needless to say I took up the track work that I put down the day before and replaced with flex track and put back 054 curves, but I think that is still tight for the tender. I might try to work on that today some.

Last but not least I installed 2 shelves so I can get some rolling stock out of cardboard moving boxes.

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These I will be able to reach with out getting on the bench work!

I hope you all find time to get out and have some fun with your layouts and trains!

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@Mike CT posted:

Mike:  The two short rail section, that butt to the frog are part of the problem, Those sections are to be dead/dead.  so that when the center rail roller crosses them it doesn't short to the outside rail circuit.  Needs to be a gap between the frog and those rails.

oh ok, so how would you recommend to fix it?

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