Went to the Dalton show and found a guy who is getting out of the hobby and was able to buy almost all of his Atlas track and switches. Also went to the Menards and picked up a few items there. Although I think almost everyone else who attended the Dalton show did the same thing because the shelves looked pretty picked over by the time I got there around 3.
COMPUTER CHAOS
Went to
http://mthtrains.com/dcs-consu...r-program-version-50 - today.
Ran into a set back to do the MTH 5.0 upgrade.
I use a Mac Book Pro and the up grade can only be done with a PC.
"A PC running at least Windows XP. Mac users may find that running a Windows emulator might work."
I do not have a Windows Emulator.
I am going to have to barrow a PC. Laptop or take it all to my local hobby shop. Prefer to do it myself.
Gary - Cheers from The Detroit and Mackinac Railway - A Toy Train Layout
PS - Being a Mac User, getting cold feet. Have to ask Barry for help.
Attachments
Images (1)
Now that I have completed the industrial spur. .... I Worked most of yesterday on getting the industrial section of Patsburg looking the way I want it..... placing/arranging buildings in various arrangements until I find something that I like. I get totally in the zone whenever doing this sort of thing.
I have all the buildings with trucks, tractors and trailers, and cars in place. Now I want to light the buildings and lots, place some more bushes and a few trees, add some people, and the industrial complex will pretty much be ready for business.
Here are some pics. I wish the lighting were better for the camera.
Attachments
Images (4)
Originally Posted by old_toymaker:
after spending several hours tapping holes I finally got to assemble my latest creation for my layout. A 30 inch all aluminum, truss bridge, The PB is on it for size.I've been having a lot of fun designing and cutting out the pcs. It may not be an exact replica of any real bridge but I thought it looked ok.
Gary
Better than OK...Superb! Way more detailed than that side view shows. I can appreciate the amount of work involved, Gary. What's the story on the girders? Are they commercially available or did you have to make them?
Bruce
Today I put corner blocks in the shell of the Amer. Std. gas electric to mount the body
lower unto the frame, to where it just clears the trucks. And then I mounted all of the
roof detail, exhaust stacks, vents, etc. to the roof. then I drilled all the holes for the
handgrabs and glued on all of those for one side. Other side, with fewer grabs, gets
done tomorrow.
I have had a Lionel Standard gauge passenger coach-#36, kicking around the house for some years. Needed a coupler and trucks. Finally found a donor car and put them on yesterday. The paint is flaking in small bits so eventually it will need repainted-I guess. I hate to repaint-I like the old look -in trains, not necessarily women.
Originally Posted by trumptrain:
Now that I have completed the industrial spur. .... I Worked most of yesterday on getting the industrial section of Patsburg looking the way I want it..... placing/arranging buildings in various arrangements until I find something that I like. I get totally in the zone whenever doing this sort of thing.
I have all the buildings with trucks, tractors and trailers, and cars in place. Now I want to light the buildings and lots, place some more bushes and a few trees, add some people, and the industrial complex will pretty much be ready for business.
Here are some pics. I wish the lighting were better for the camera.
Pat: The industrial area of Patsburg looks great. Your ability to bring a scene to life using scenery, people vehicles and trains is second to none!
Bruce
thanks for the comments. as far as the girders go I had to cut them out, They are made from 3 separate pieces and pressed together then screwed from both sides of the main beam just in case the press becomes loose. The slowest part is drilling and tapping all the 4-40 holes, The 30 inch bridge has approximately 75 holes on each half of the bridge. here are some photos of the girders before assembly.
I have started working on a 45 inch bridge, there will be a little over 1000 screws holding it together so it may be a little while before its ready.
Gary
Attachments
Images (3)
Originally Posted by Pat Kn:
Originally Posted by Fridge56Vet:
Seems to work well, though the Y6b doesn't like to back through it.
Your Y6b probably has trouble because you have an "S" curve on your track. When you have a right hand curve switch immediately followed by a reverse (left hand) curve it results in a track that acts smaller than the radius of either curve. An engine rated for O72 will not run properly over an O72 reverse ("S) curve,
That I would understand, but oddly it seems to do it going through the straight part of the switch. Haven't had nearly as much issue w/the "S-curve."
However, I think it could be that the inside outside rail of the switch isn't sitting flush next to the outside (main) rail. Looks like the tip might be bent a tad, or something, causing it to pop partially open and derail the tender/loco.
Originally Posted by old_toymaker:
Bruce
thanks for the comments. as far as the girders go I had to cut them out, They are made from 3 separate pieces and pressed together then screwed from both sides of the main beam just in case the press becomes loose. The slowest part is drilling and tapping all the 4-40 holes, The 30 inch bridge has approximately 75 holes on each half of the bridge. here are some photos of the girders before assembly.
I have started working on a 45 inch bridge, there will be a little over 1000 screws holding it together so it may be a little while before its ready.
Gary
Gary,
Thanks for explaining the construction. The next project sounds even more ambitious and complicated. Hopefully the repetition doesn't leave you cross eyed.
I'll soon be revisiting bridge construction, as I need to span a stairwell on the new layout. I look forward to planning and building something new, using the same methods and materials as I did previously.
I bypassed the tapping process and used machine screws and nuts instead. I have always wanted to put my full weight on the span but never had the guts to do it. Still, it supports 2 tracks and anything that goes over it without any sag.
Bruce
Today was slow, with all the detail, putting grabirons and steps on the car, and I began
painting, of brake parts, tool box, and tanks for under the gas electric. I find I do not
have decals for "Missouri Pacific Lines" heavyweight passenger equipt., which is what
i need for this car.
Really cool bridge Bruce. 
That's one really nice bridge Bruce.
Gary
I ran my proto1 Big Boy and General, nothing like proto2 or 3 but boy do they put out smoke.
Ran my two new acquisitions today behind two different electric locos. What a hoot !! The track is new and rests on strips of Homosote which are on top of the carpet. It is an octagonal layout about 11 ft square, Basically 8 long 36" straights with one piece of curve seperating them. Runs smooth and amazingly quiet. awkward to run sitting or squatting on the floor but will do until I build better. Love to run the big SG.
Originally Posted by old_toymaker:
That's one really nice bridge Bruce.
Gary
Bruce,
I will second Gary's comment!
Lord help me! On Cadrail designing Control Panel and wiring schematic for MTH DCS. I built this layout with the intention of operating the good old fashion way forever! Then a friend purchased a DCS and brought it over to my house. It took about two minutes after seeing it it action and all the features to convince me.
Oh well, there's nothing else I'd rather do than re-wire the main again. It's only about 300 feet of track, then there's the yard, etc.
Today is Veterans Day in Sierra Pelona. The traveling wall has been erected on the lawn of the Elektra Theater and the good folks of Seirra Pelona are paying their respects the those who have sacrificed the most. Tonight will be a special showing of "Full Metal Jacket" at the theater.
To all my brothers and sisters who served in Vietnam "WELCOME HOME!
And to Dan (22E, Line 19), Bobby (08W Line 91) and Jim CMH (60E line 11), this is for you.
Attachments
Images (2)
Originally Posted by old_toymaker:
after spending several hours tapping holes I finally got to assemble my latest creation for my layout. A 30 inch all aluminum, truss bridge, The PB is on it for size.I've been having a lot of fun designing and cutting out the pcs. It may not be an exact replica of any real bridge but I thought it looked ok.
Gary
Gary, a SUPER job!! I admire all the detail work you did. Curious, about how long did it take you to construct it? Again, it is a work of art.
Jim
Had to rake leaves for pickup tomorrow but I found time to run some trains.........Paul
Ran trains for a few minutes while getting dressed for work today. Not layout progress but sure enjoyed watching those trains run!!!
Thanks Jim
Time to construct that's a little in depth. It took me about 25hours to draw all the separate pieces after designing the main bridge. Fortunately one of my former employers has two waterjets. He made a deal if I would write some programs for his other CNC machines he let me use one of the jets when it wasn't busy but I had to set it up for the next job when I was done. no problem I cut out all the pcs in about an hour. after getting everything home I set up my drill press and spent about 2 or 3 hours drilling holes. Then the hard part began. Tapping all the holes, I don't know how much time that took as I would do a few holes at a time and put it down. Over the course of about a week all the holes were done. then pressing the girders together only took a couple hours and the final assembly took about an hour. That's basically it.
If anyone has connections to a waterjet or laser that will cut 1/4 inch aluminum I would be happy to share my drawings. Oh and all the material I used was scrap.
here are a few more pics of the girders after pressing the 3 pieces together and sandblasting them.
Gary
Attachments
Images (5)
I finally put the station names on the sides of the three depots on my layout (one is scratchbuilt, the other two are Grandt Line flag stops). Been meaning to do that for a long time.
Also getting ready to start scenery, but will need a non-rainy day as I'll need to vent the train room while I'm doing some stuff in there, using an open window and a fan...
Well, went from the first pic to the last in four days work!
No your not seeing the reverse order..... I took it all down and am REBUILDING! The last picture is from the security camera in the room and shows the benchwork being finished up for the next phase!
Attachments
Images (3)
Files (1)
I recently purchased a set of S gauge American Flyer Route of the Reindeer cars from Charles Ro. I had not purchased the GP engine that was previously produced so I have to do an engine for this set myself. I am in the process of repainting a Casey Jones to match the cars.
Ray
I paved the parking lot by the theater and another by the pizza palace. There's still a lot to do but it's progress.
Attachments
Images (2)
I replaced the the lights on my Williams GL-2 with LEDs. I don't like the lights that are on it. The GL goes pretty fast on very little voltage compared to other engines which means the lights don't get very bright. Not a problem with LED. I didn't take a picture of the rear light.
Attachments
Images (3)
I love the LEDs, They produce so much light with such a low power draw and almost no heat. Great Job.
Ray
Originally Posted by DennyM:
I replaced the the lights on my Williams GL-2 with LEDs. I don't like the lights that are on it. The GL goes pretty fast on very little voltage compared to other engines which means the lights don't get very bright. Not a problem with LED. I didn't take a picture of the rear light.
I have been working on tunnel walls this past week. Using a kitchen knife, I split a one inch piece of styrofoam. As I work the knife around and through the panel, I cut and twist the blade causing the styrofoam to fracture and break apart.
The results produces two 1/2" panels that resemble a rough rocky structure. The panels are then painted a dark earthy color. Spray with "wet" water (add drop or two of soap) helps to bleed paint into cracks and crevices.
The panels are easily bent to follow the curve of the track in the tunnel area.
Note the pink styrofoam blocks in the last picture. They are glued in place the day before I set the wall panels. After a day to cure, a dab of adhesive is added to the face of the blocks and the panels wall is pushed into place. I use push pins and small c-clamps to hold them in place during cure. I'm using Loctite PL 200 construction adhesive purchased from Menards. It's cheap, provides a good strong bond and is compatible with styrofoam.
Attachments
Images (5)
I haven't seen that method for tunnel walls before. Very effective!!
Originally Posted by darlander:
I have been working on tunnel walls this past week. Using a kitchen knife, I split a one inch piece of styrofoam. As I work the knife around and through the panel, I cut and twist the blade causing the styrofoam to fracture and break apart.
The results produces two 1/2" panels that resemble a rough rocky structure. The panels are then painted a dark earthy color. Spray with "wet" water (add drop or two of soap) helps to bleed paint into cracks and crevices.
The panels are easily bent to follow the curve of the track in the tunnel area.
Note the pink styrofoam squares in the last picture. They are glued in place the day before I set the wall panels. After a day to cure, a dab of adhesive is added to the face of the blocks and the panels wall is pushed into place. I use push pins and small c-clamps to hold them in place during cure. I'm using Loctite PL 200 construction adhesive purchased from Menards. It's cheap, provides a good strong bond and is compatible with styrofoam.
Thank you for sharing this method for tunnel construction. Yet another GREAT idea. I always learn something from this forum.
I don't have tunnels on my layout, but I, too, never would have thought of that.
Great idea, 'Darlander'! Thanks for sharing it!
I've been working on the small Christmas layout I've been gradually putting together in the basement. It's all-prewar and all 031. Right now, I have a Lionel 259E and a string of freight cars running on it, but I want to have my parents' vintage Lionel trains running for when my mother comes to visit over the holidays.
Went to MB Klien and picked up repairs .... MTH SW 9 Baltimore and Annapolis and a MPC RDC motorized unit in B&O livery. Ran both tonight on the layout and they checked out just fine! Photos to come.
Installed 14 recessed can/LED lights over the layout in soft white.WOW gave me a whole new perspective on it.Had the old blinding flurescent 4 bulb lights….. SOOOOO happy with it.Nick
Doing my bit to annoy jihadists by fixing my K-Line Hanukkah car, whose stickers fell off years ago. Found a side view of one online, and made up replacements based on it.
The pic on my monitor is by a French artist buddy of mine.
Mitch
Attachments
Images (1)
It's just past 9 AM here and I can already say I've done something on my layout today.
I recently installed an MTH Pennsylvania Signal Bridge I had sitting around for years new in a box. Activation is accomplished using a block circuit and a couple of Azatrax relay boards. Unfortunately, I ran into a little problem with relay chatter, something that is a 'known risk' with this method.
A can capacitor is the obvious answer in this situation, but I was a little concerned about being able to insert the cap into the right part of the circuit due to the tight space on the board and the tiny size of the surface-mounted components. Fortunately, the DC side of the rectifier faces outward and away from the other components giving me plenty of space in which to work.
Viola! Meet Azatrax board with added 1000 uF can! No more relay chatter, and I have the rest of the day to do something else.
Attachments
Images (1)
Originally Posted by darlander:
I have been working on tunnel walls this past week. Using a kitchen knife, I split a one inch piece of styrofoam. As I work the knife around and through the panel, I cut and twist the blade causing the styrofoam to fracture and break apart.
The results produces two 1/2" panels that resemble a rough rocky structure. The panels are then painted a dark earthy color. Spray with "wet" water (add drop or two of soap) helps to bleed paint into cracks and crevices.
The panels are easily bent to follow the curve of the track in the tunnel area.
Note the pink styrofoam squares in the last picture. They are glued in place the day before I set the wall panels. After a day to cure, a dab of adhesive is added to the face of the blocks and the panels wall is pushed into place. I use push pins and small c-clamps to hold them in place during cure. I'm using Loctite PL 200 construction adhesive purchased from Menards. It's cheap, provides a good strong bond and is compatible with styrofoam.
What a great idea. When I expand my layout, I'm going to try that.
Well today so far I ran some trains and while doing that I was adding some more shrubs to the layout. I know I should be cleaning up under the tables but it just feels oh so good to be upright doing something................Paul
