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I want to say thanks for the likes to my post and thanks for the warm welcoming I got. I really appreicate it. Today I just moved a few trucks around the layout. I have to clean it up now as we laid flooring this past weekend in the kitchen up about my layout. The ceiling is not finished, so I have a lot of dust and things fall onto my layout.

Of course it shows up like a sore thumb against the green felt!!!!!!!!!

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  • IMG_3782: Cargo I loaded onto my railcars
  • IMG_3779: Black bear within town limits
  • IMG_3777: Main street veiw
  • IMG_3775: see
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Richard Leray 012918 posted:

I want to say thanks for the likes to my post and thanks for the warm welcoming I got. I really appreicate it. Today I just moved a few trucks around the layout. I have to clean it up now as we laid flooring this past weekend in the kitchen up about my layout. The ceiling is not finished, so I have a lot of dust and things fall onto my layout.

Of course it shows up like a sore thumb against the green felt!!!!!!!!!

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Pretty cool!   Your video didn't work out though.   But where in did you get the windmill in the first picture above the CN engine? 

Jim 

 

beardog posted:

Jim, the windmills like he has range from salesmen's samples to relatively new. 

I have 4 of them, including a John Deere that I have listed on ebay at the moment.

Look under jgjg49 on ebay. They all look similar, just a progression of companies made them.

John

I like that one but 17 inches tall is a bit bigger than I want.  Is the plasticville windmill smaller?

Jim 

Deuce posted:

Got all the cover down.  Then tested it with my Amtrak Silver Spike (with B unit addition) set that I way overpaid for.  Honestly,  doesn't sound quieter but looks better than the OSB board. 

The Amtrak sparks and the lights flicker.  Need to figure out why ... 

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flickering and sparks are usually dirty track and wheels

Tonight I started the next build, Downtown Deco Palace Hotel / Card Room. Nice size building to place just about anywhere on the layout. I sanded all the edges that needed to be glued and the bottom to keep everything nice and square. I also add corner bracing to help strengthen the corner joints. I use 5 min epoxy when I glue up hydrocal kits. I learned the hard way on my very first kit some years ago and was told I could use white glue or CA glue. I attempted to use CA glue. I had glued three walls together  and went to move what I had only to have glue let go and the front wall do a face plant onto my 1/4" sheet of plate glass and break into about 5 or 6 pieces. From then on I only use 5 min. epoxy. Anyway, here is what I have so far. The one side wall had a slight bow to it, so I will have to put a drain pipe or some ivy over that corner to hide the seam.

                                                    played with camera...

                                                         ran some trains...

                                          then we had some ice cream...

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Last edited by briansilvermustang
beardog posted:
Deuce posted:

Got all the cover down.  Then tested it with my Amtrak Silver Spike (with B unit addition) set that I way overpaid for.  Honestly,  doesn't sound quieter but looks better than the OSB board. 

The Amtrak sparks and the lights flicker.  Need to figure out why ... 

20180130_215836

flickering and sparks are usually dirty track and wheels

Yep and the incan cars will blink/flash going over switches anyway.  Not sure if there is a cure for those like they put a capacitor or something in the LED cars to keep the lights on over dead spots.  Seems like you could do the same.  

Jim

 

beardog posted:
Deuce posted:

Got all the cover down.  Then tested it with my Amtrak Silver Spike (with B unit addition) set that I way overpaid for.  Honestly,  doesn't sound quieter but looks better than the OSB board. 

The Amtrak sparks and the lights flicker.  Need to figure out why ... 

20180130_215836

flickering and sparks are usually dirty track and wheels

 I'm going to assume dirty wheels because it's new FT and everything else doesn't spark. Wouldn't hurt to give it a wipe down anyways. 

Corner Gumbo

Ingredients:

Rubber floor mats, wall tile, pink foam mountain sections from old layout, lighting, building flats from old layout, plastic cup, scrap wood, velcro strips.

Directions:

Cut floor mats to fit space between back walls and curves. Place tile pieces and building flats, attach flats to wall with velcro. Place other scenery elements.  Ponder what's next (backgrounds, more scenery elements).

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Mayor Magoo posted:

Corner Gumbo

Ingredients:

Rubber floor mats, wall tile, pink foam mountain sections from old layout, lighting, building flats from old layout, plastic cup, scrap wood, velcro strips.

Directions:

Cut floor mats to fit space between back walls and curves. Place tile pieces and building flats, attach flats to wall with velcro. Place other scenery elements.  Ponder what's next (backgrounds, more scenery elements).

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Looks good!  Must be nice to have leftover stuff to use : )  We newbies would enjoy that!   Hey and dont look now but there is a big square hole in your layout!!! LOL  

Jim : )

Thanks Jim.

True story about that hole: The wife hadn't been up to see progress on the build in a while and hadn't seen the access hole - there is a piece of foam board that fits.  She was coming up to talk and bring me a beverage, heard her coming so I hid under the cut out and popped up when she called for me.  I got the desired effect -- scared her.

But then I didn't get my beer either.

Growing up is something I plan to do in the future.

Mayor Magoo posted:

Thanks Jim.

True story about that hole: The wife hadn't been up to see progress on the build in a while and hadn't seen the access hole - there is a piece of foam board that fits.  She was coming up to talk and bring me a beverage, heard her coming so I hid under the cut out and popped up when she called for me.  I got the desired effect -- scared her.

But then I didn't get my beer either.

Growing up is something I plan to do in the future.

AHAHAHHAHA now thats a good one.  Had I done that to my wife.....  I would have been soaked in beer and maybe a knot on my head from the bottle!!  

Jim

I converted my frankenstein Lionel U30C to a dummy unit - I purchased this unit at a discount about 15 years ago since it had dubious origins and came into the LHS I worked at at the time (I was in high school).  The Lionel box doesn't have an item number, the styrofoam the locomotive came in was obviously modified and hand-cut from another locomotives box/etc, and it just never ran right - jerking starts and stops, unresponsiveness, etc.  I've had the shell on and off more times than I care to remember.  Last year after getting back into running the trains, I identified a significant cause of the issue being the Odyssey magnet had cracked then later self-destructed, along with a burnt out smoke unit and during one my less careful shell removals, accidentally detached the speaker wires.  I tried ordering a few replacement parts for the locomotive (Odyssey flywheel magnet, new smoke unit, new speaker) and I finally got around to attempting a repair of the locomotive, but without a wheel puller to pull the flywheel and having unsuccessfully tried cutting the new magnet with a dremel to later reglue (a chunk of the magnet appeared to have vaporized during my second cut), I scrapped the idea of returning the locomotive to powered service and just gutted the electronics and motors to make it a dummy.

I wired in the headlights and reverse lights to the pickups so they're always on and now it serves a great purpose as a dummy locomotive.  Also now I can double or triple head trains irrespective of the powered locomotive control system (TMCC/DCS/conventional).

Ultimately I'm a little sad I couldn't fully restore it to service, but I think I'm better off with a dummy now that I can actually have on the layout than the alternative.  I may take a crack later at installing and wiring up the smoke unit to run when track power is applied:

Remnants from the disembowelment - oh the humanity!

Nothing to show photos of, but I had placed a bunch of cinders on a turnout that was HO (nobody makes a curved On30 turnout) to hide the ties and locos/cars would always 'bounce' a bit when going past the frog. I went over the flangeways countless times with the same results. Last night, I took a gasket pick (looks like a screw driver handle with an ice pick on the end) and ran it through there a bunch of times. I ran a loco through it and no hop. It was something minor that was driving me nuts as when I originally put down and glued in the ballast, I had no issues with errant grains causing issues with flanges (which came as a very pleasant shock at the time).

I also finally fixed my layout's website (the link is in my signature block). I couldn't delete a massive chunk of dead space, and that was really driving me nuts. The editor function isn't nearly as user-friendly as it once was and when I'd try to remove the spacing, nothing would happen. I won't go into the details, but I finally got that chunk removed.

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