I only went as deep as the building dept. made me! LOL
1'
briansilvermustang posted:mike g. posted:
GOOD LUCK ON NEW TRAIN ROOM !!!
Thanks Brian, that is very cool how you did that! I am saving that picture for sure!
Drilled holes in framework for buss wires to run. Next will be wire hangers, tomorrow.
Melvin P posted:Drilled holes in framework for buss wires to run. Next will be wire hangers, tomorrow.
Thats always fun isn't it?? I am going to start on mine tonight!
Jim
mike g. posted:
First off Glen, great looking fence!
Ok Guys the new train room is an addition to the back of my heated garage. The room it self will be 12' W X 24' L, only one window but that's ok who need windows when you have trains! It going to be a slow build as I am on a fixed income that's why no more buying train stuff till its done! But hell I am just happy to get started!
As far as a track plan, I have one that Moonman Carl worked up for me but still want to tweak it alittle.
Congrats on the addition!!!! !2x24 is nice, but 16X24 will give you room to expand later. Cut corners where you can. I remember the SPAM days!
So Mitch, which end will it be?
Hi guys been some time. I have been swapping out motive power on the layout the last week and last evening for the first time since I got them, I took the Williams by Bachmann black bonnet set I got from Ryan and put them back into the boxes. Then I pulled out the Lionel New Haven ABA set I have to replace them.
I also pulled the trigger on the new Lionel BNSF Tier 4 LC set 6-84732 from Charles Ro just to find out it will not deliver till around 10-10-18. But it came with a nice discount so I hope I am still around to get it when it ships. 
coach joe posted:So Mitch, which end will it be?
I vote for TWO pantographs, one facing forward, one facing aft... that way, he'll have bumpers and can run the "Franken-loco" as a trolley 
Congratulations Mike on your Train room. Good things come to those who wait patiently. Going to enjoy your pics of construction. With all you guys building layouts I won't have anytime to work on mine because I will be enjoying your constructions. Anyways after deciding that the grain elevator will not work where I wanted to put it I finished off the Sur Sweet kit and it is ready to go in that area. I had some extra 1X4's so I made up a new table for the grain elevator and got it almost mounted and leveled in place. Still have to make up a couple of legs and cut the plywood to fit the frame. Maybe I might be able to do that after dinner but if not tomorrow will be an early start. Pics..........Paul
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paul 2 posted:Congratulations Mike on your Train room. Good things come to those who wait patiently. Going to enjoy your pics of construction. With all you guys building layouts I won't have anytime to work on mine because I will be enjoying your constructions. Anyways after deciding that the grain elevator will not work where I wanted to put it I finished off the Sur Sweet kit and it is ready to go in that area. I had some extra 1X4's so I made up a new table for the grain elevator and got it almost mounted and leveled in place. Still have to make up a couple of legs and cut the plywood to fit the frame. Maybe I might be able to do that after dinner but if not tomorrow will be an early start. Pics..........Paul
Paul that is great! I wish I had the room to just add on. Glad that you do! That is some great buildings you built and painted! Will look good there!
Jim
Apples55 posted:coach joe posted:So Mitch, which end will it be?
I vote for TWO pantographs, one facing forward, one facing aft... that way, he'll have bumpers and can run the "Franken-loco" as a trolley
Sounds legit to me!
Mitch
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paul 2 posted:Bryan, real nice job on the pedestrian walkway in the Midway. I like your thought process. After redoing the grain elevator I don't think I can adapt it for the area I have. So for the time being that has been moved off the table. I finished painting the Sur Sweet building kit and attached the chimney. The building is all done. So now my thought is to use that building as a Feed store and tractor sales place with some smaller grain silos for wheat loading and unloading and a track for unloading tractors from flat cars. I think this will work better with the footprint I have to work with. Pics.............Paul
Thanks Paul, but stop showing off you know I'm not retired and can't keep up with your progress; although you better hope I don't get anymore snow days because I am really motivated right now and the projects are on the board are getting finished pretty quickly. lol
Paul,
Thats great you have room to make a place for the grain elevator!!
decoynh posted:mike g. posted:
Ok Guys the new train room is an addition to the back of my heated garage. The room it self will be 12' W X 24' L, only one window but that's ok who need windows when you have trains! It going to be a slow build as I am on a fixed income that's why no more buying train stuff till its done! But hell I am just happy to get started!
As far as a track plan, I have one that Moonman Carl worked up for me but still want to tweak it alittle.
Congrats on the addition!!!! !2x24 is nice, but 16X24 will give you room to expand later. Cut corners where you can. I remember the SPAM days!
Matt, I would go bigger, but the building Dept. wont let me! Would be to close to the property line!
paul 2 posted:Congratulations Mike on your Train room. Good things come to those who wait patiently. Going to enjoy your pics of construction. With all you guys building layouts I won't have anytime to work on mine because I will be enjoying your constructions. Anyways after deciding that the grain elevator will not work where I wanted to put it I finished off the Sur Sweet kit and it is ready to go in that area. I had some extra 1X4's so I made up a new table for the grain elevator and got it almost mounted and leveled in place. Still have to make up a couple of legs and cut the plywood to fit the frame. Maybe I might be able to do that after dinner but if not tomorrow will be an early start. Pics..........Paul
Thanks Paul! Your bench work looks great! I do have one concern and it might just be the angle of the picture. But that sure looks like a tight curve coming off the other table at the far end of the bench!
mike g. posted:
Ok Guys the new train room is an addition to the back of my heated garage. The room it self will be 12' W X 24' L, only one window but that's ok who need windows when you have trains
Wow, I'm very happy for you!
mike g. posted:paul 2 posted:Congratulations Mike on your Train room. Good things come to those who wait patiently. Going to enjoy your pics of construction. With all you guys building layouts I won't have anytime to work on mine because I will be enjoying your constructions. Anyways after deciding that the grain elevator will not work where I wanted to put it I finished off the Sur Sweet kit and it is ready to go in that area. I had some extra 1X4's so I made up a new table for the grain elevator and got it almost mounted and leveled in place. Still have to make up a couple of legs and cut the plywood to fit the frame. Maybe I might be able to do that after dinner but if not tomorrow will be an early start. Pics..........Paul
Thanks Paul! Your bench work looks great! I do have one concern and it might just be the angle of the picture. But that sure looks like a tight curve coming off the other table at the far end of the bench!
I have 072 curves on my layout and 2 foot wide ends. But the track is laid as far out as I can get it in any direction!!! Can really tell how much room there is from the end of the new section to the track on the other table.
Jim
Mike, I am going to have post better pics. LOL Looking at the angle I took the picture it looks like a really sharp curve but the tracks are actually going at a 45 degree angle. The closest track will have a switch to go to the table. Later I'll draw a diagram and post it. That will show it a lot better I think...Paul
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Mike, I am going to have post better pics. LOL Looking at the angle I took the picture it looks like a really sharp curve but the tracks are actually going at a 45 degree angle. The closest track will have a switch to go to the table. Later I'll draw a diagram and post it. That will show it a lot better I think...Paul
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Some other stuff I forgot to say,
I have this Williams by Bachmann Burlington Northern SD 90 Locomotive # 9587 that is a great engine but,,,,,,,,, when I try to run it slow on my upper reversing loop it requires so little power that the Lionel 0-42 Remote Right-hand switch does not have enough power to work before the train gets through the switch.
So I did the rewire to series on the engine and got some good results. I got the needed information from ACDX Rob from the CTT site.
The series wiring was easy and did the trick for the switch. Slow speed is now a crawl and there is still plenty of high speed. A much better chance of the grandkid not flying the engine off the upper loop!!
KRM posted:Some other stuff I forgot to say,
I have this Williams by Bachmann Burlington Northern SD 90 Locomotive # 9587 that is a great engine but,,,,,,,,, when I try to run it slow on my upper reversing loop it requires so little power that the Lionel 0-42 Remote Right-hand switch does not have enough power to work before the train gets through the switch.
So I did the rewire to series on the engine and got some good results. I got the needed information from ACDX Rob from the CTT site.
The series wiring was easy and did the trick for the switch. Slow speed is now a crawl and there is still plenty of high speed. A much better chance of the grandkid not flying the engine off the upper loop!!
I did a Bachmann GP9 and a K-line S-2 in series wiring and the the difference is much more realistic! Good for you!
nice, I might have to do this to a few of mine fast runners including this sd70mac
finished up laying the mainline roadbed and track for the reverse loop on my layout, still have to bend and cut some gargraves for the siding - its tight but I can still fit some maxi stacks! wiring next
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M. Mitchell Marmel posted:Apples55 posted:coach joe posted:So Mitch, which end will it be?
I vote for TWO pantographs, one facing forward, one facing aft... that way, he'll have bumpers and can run the "Franken-loco" as a trolley
Sounds legit to me!
Mitch
Looks like it cant close on the short hood. The roof is too easy. Too long for midship. I want the fan gone, lol.
Cut the cab along the short hood. Extend the hood notch to the roof and raise the hood to roof level. Build up the bottom gap with "boxed" style sheets, wide, leaving a step about as wide as that box is already.( styrene). A short high hood.
Adriatic posted:M. Mitchell Marmel posted:Apples55 posted:coach joe posted:So Mitch, which end will it be?
I vote for TWO pantographs, one facing forward, one facing aft... that way, he'll have bumpers and can run the "Franken-loco" as a trolley
Sounds legit to me!
Mitch
Looks like it cant close on the short hood. The roof is too easy. Too long for midship. I want the fan gone, lol.
Cut the cab along the short hood. Extend the hood notch to the roof and raise the hood to roof level. Build up the bottom gap with "boxed" style sheets, wide, leaving a step about as wide as that box is already.( styrene). A short high hood.
paint it pink, put the pantographs on each side, also painted pink, and call it a flamingo
I did two K-Line S2s a few years back but forgot how to do it so it was great ACDX Rob helped me out. I did not install the switch. No need plenty of high speed without it.
Here is what he sent.
Remove the yellow wire from one motor, the blue from the other. Wrap them, separated, with insulating tape and secure them inside the shell. Now connect the two motor terminals you just freed up with a new wire. Done.
A DPDT switch can be installed, too, if you want the capability of switching between series/parallel.
Rob |
beardog posted:Adriatic posted:M. Mitchell Marmel posted:Apples55 posted:coach joe posted:So Mitch, which end will it be?
I vote for TWO pantographs, one facing forward, one facing aft... that way, he'll have bumpers and can run the "Franken-loco" as a trolley
Sounds legit to me!
Mitch
Looks like it cant close on the short hood. The roof is too easy. Too long for midship. I want the fan gone, lol.
Cut the cab along the short hood. Extend the hood notch to the roof and raise the hood to roof level. Build up the bottom gap with "boxed" style sheets, wide, leaving a step about as wide as that box is already.( styrene). A short high hood.
paint it pink, put the pantographs on each side, also painted pink, and call it a flamingo
You people are scaring me... Someone please call the men with the butterfly nets 
Fiddled around lighting up my buildings and straightening out the cords to figure out placement. Woodland Scenics stuff. Power comes from wall wart into expansion hub. light hub plugs into expansion hub. So silly me plugs some additional stick on bulbs into the expansion hub. Obviously this is a no no! They lit up bright and then no more. Had two other buildings plugged into the expansion hub no problems. But I unplugged them and plugged them into the light hub and they are dimmer. All the same plugs. And nowhere does it say not to plug buildings or singles into the expansion hub? OOOOPS. Well now I have two warm white LEDS on cords that don't work, that's better than some none working buildings! : )
Jim
Back of box.... this just plug lighting system is a complete, quick and easy way to add realism and interest to new and existing layouts. No electrical knowledge (that's me) or special tools needed. LOL
Adriatic posted:Looks like it cant close on the short hood. The roof is too easy. Too long for midship. I want the fan gone, lol.
Cut the cab along the short hood. Extend the hood notch to the roof and raise the hood to roof level. Build up the bottom gap with "boxed" style sheets, wide, leaving a step about as wide as that box is already.( styrene). A short high hood.
Already did something like that to a Geep:
beardog posted:paint it pink, put the pantographs on each side, also painted pink, and call it a flamingo
Mitch
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Here you go Mike. I did this quick diagram. Hope it shows what I was trying to explain................Paul
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That's what I thought Paul. Just looked tight in the picture.
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After noodling about, I think I have the pantograph location sussed...
The idea will be that, since it'd theoretically be operating under wire much of the time, the engine wouldn't be running anyway. I'll probably mount a deflector panel on the lower arm of the pantograph to deflect the hot air from the radiator fan...
Mitch
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Paul, yes that is what I was thinking you were doing! Makes good sense!
Brian, as always, what a nice selection of engines you ran today! Your elbows will need lubricated more than the engines as often as you change what you run! Thank you for sharing with us!
Mitch, yes that makes sense if it is always powered by the overhead, there would be no need for some of the innards!
paul 2 posted:Here you go Mike. I did this quick diagram. Hope it shows what I was trying to explain................Paul
Paul. Do you already have or have you located a curved switch for that?
Jim
KRM posted:Some other stuff I forgot to say,
I have this Williams by Bachmann Burlington Northern SD 90 Locomotive # 9587 that is a great engine but,,,,,,,,, when I try to run it slow on my upper reversing loop it requires so little power that the Lionel 0-42 Remote Right-hand switch does not have enough power to work before the train gets through the switch.
So I did the rewire to series on the engine and got some good results. I got the needed information from ACDX Rob from the CTT site.
The series wiring was easy and did the trick for the switch. Slow speed is now a crawl and there is still plenty of high speed. A much better chance of the grandkid not flying the engine off the upper loop!!
KRM- Good to see you back posting updates. The upper level looks really sharp!
I had the same problem with a bunch of K-line switchers. Series wiring the motors fixed it. Not only do the turnouts work better (I use the same ones), but I can spot cars on sidings without crashing them through the bumpers
Bob
Jim, I had a left hand 0-54 Ross switch sitting around. I flipped it over to act as a RH switch. The radius is a bit too wide so I'll have to add an 0-42 RH to my next switch order. And while I was doing that I worked on what I want to do where the grain elevator was going to go. I laid out what I think might work. A siding to the feed building and another siding to a ramp to unload flat cars with farm tractors plus the siding will also be used for grain storage loading and unloading on a smaller rural scale. Now I have to make up some legs for the new table, bolt it to the other table, cut the plywood for the top and go from there. Pics...........Paul
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That all sounds good, Paul! Do you just have the new shelf bolted to the studs for now? With some inexpensive shelf brackets you may not need legs.
Not train layout related but train room related.
Brain our neighbor came over last Tuesday evening with some nice new leftover carpet from a job he was on and dropped it off so we could carpet the basement staircase on Saturday. Won't hurt so bad next time I decide to fall down them. 
So Saturday we installed it. Wife is happy and cat is not sure about it. I feel better about the grand-kids running up and down them now.
Before
After
KRM posted:Not train layout related but train room related.
Brain our neighbor came over last Tuesday evening with some nice new leftover carpet from a job he was on and dropped it off so we could carpet the basement staircase on Saturday. Won't hurt so bad next time I decide to fall down them.
So Saturday we installed it. Wife is happy and cat is not sure about it. I feel better about the grand-kids running up and down them now.
Before
After
Nice carpet job! And YES padding helps dull the impact!!! : )
Jim
Mark, I have got the table screwed to the studs. The table is 18 inches wide by 61 inches long. I possibly could of used brackets but by placing a couple of legs on the front side I can put a shelf under it for storage.........Paul
