Looking good Mike. I would look for a small phillips head screw and toss the slotted heads. I don't know why they even make them anymore. So many other options, square, torx, etc....
Gandy- great work on the scenery. Looks very realistic
Frank- always love seeing the scenes on your layout.
Steve- Not everything on our layouts needs to be perfect, shiny, and new.
Roman- back to tubular? Tell us more, why the change?
Bob
Me too...
Bob, I agree, the only reason I used the slotted screws was because that is what I had on hand.
Brian, I like the Nickel Plate colors! I know Marci would be a bad influence on you! MORE TRAINS! LOL
I don't think there are any trains left on the market that Brian doesn't own already 
Thanks Mike! That’s definitely a possible solution for me
I always have trouble with the HO track on the west end of my train table. It does not matter what brand of track or locomotive I use. I spent a couple of hours yesterday scrubbing every single track with rubbing alcohol as well as thoroughly cleaning the wheels on the loco. It runs better, but not as well as it did the day before.
mike g. posted:
ROMAN, Nice extension, I guess you cant have too much track! Just watch out when parking, doesnt look like alot of space!
Well the photo is a little misleading. It's more of an overhang from the basic framing so both cars would actually go just under the edge. Plus there's the classic tennis ball marker hanging from the ceiling to protect my wife's shiny new Honda closest to the camera!
RSJB18 posted:new.
Roman- back to tubular? Tell us more, why the change?
Bob
Well, 3 things really. The layout as it is has been in the current unfinished state for several years and is rather hodgepodge to me with the accessories just kind of thrown in. I'm aiming for the Postwar display feel. My wife actually brought up redoing things and helping planning out a good track plan before final install. Great, huh!
The space roughly 4'x12'. I started with the idea of something hi-rail and of course O gauge fills that space up quick, especially with the accessories. I lost interest in building it as I didn't know what direction to go with it and just ran the trains. Seeing Chris Esposito's pictures over the years with his various layouts sparked the Postwar idea and I decided to go for it. Happily I kept a bunch of tubular track and switches so pretty much there's going to be little to no expense. Even the wood is left over from another failed layout project. I tried Gargraves flex to make my own curves years ago but was never pleased on how they turned out.
Last is I just didn't enjoy the look of my modern loco's on 036. It's nice to run them but the overhang is just a turn off. I have friend who has a huge outdoor setup with Atlas 080 plus curves that I can run nice long trains so I can get that out of my system. I've running mostly my Postwar stuff and smaller current era Lionel loco's at home.
Ok guys I can’t stand it any longer I miss my piggy’s, yes there will be a major retro change to the Dough Hill layout I like steam and will probably have a layout with steam but for now I’m going back to the mid 1960s yes all you guys that like those cool cars and trucks are coming back along with some new. Stay tune for updates
Vincent Massi posted:I always have trouble with the HO track on the west end of my train table. It does not matter what brand of track or locomotive I use. I spent a couple of hours yesterday scrubbing every single track with rubbing alcohol as well as thoroughly cleaning the wheels on the loco. It runs better, but not as well as it did the day before.
How's the power feed to that end? Does the loco have enough weight?
Mitch
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:Vincent Massi posted:I always have trouble with the HO track on the west end of my train table. It does not matter what brand of track or locomotive I use. I spent a couple of hours yesterday scrubbing every single track with rubbing alcohol as well as thoroughly cleaning the wheels on the loco. It runs better, but not as well as it did the day before.
How's the power feed to that end? Does the loco have enough weight?
Mitch
Different tracks have their power feeds in different areas. The problem never appears until a few weeks have passed. On the other hand, since it's a smaller track, I only use my smaller locos on it.
I'll try a heavier loco and see what happens.
mike g. posted:I love the way they work, it just sucks that I an limited where I can use them do to the support structure under the table.
Mike, regarding your desired use of Tortoise switch machines: Since you really like their operation, there are ways to work around support structures. On an early in my life HO layout, I had clearance and structural issues under a few switch locations. I used RC airplane control rods, see picture. The yellow rod slides inside the red tube and transfers motion to where ever you need it. If you rout a small groove in your table top perpendicular to the switch and leading to the throw bar, you can bury the tube assembly and run it out far enough to mount your switch machine away from any obstruction. The spring wire on the Tortoise throw will activate the yellow slide rod. The other end of the yellow slide will have a vertical metal pin that will activate the switch throw bar. In short, the Tortoise machine need not be directly under the track switch. I can give you more details if you are interested in this method. Also, I am sure that your local hobby dealer and/or area modelers, would be able to give further input and possibly, other options. The only area that I did not use Tortoise is on two switches that needed to be non-derailing. Those switches are activated by DZ1000 switch machines which produces the necessary quick snap throw. Give it some thought. Cheers, Dave
Roman posted:mike g. posted:
ROMAN, Nice extension, I guess you cant have too much track! Just watch out when parking, doesnt look like alot of space!
Well the photo is a little misleading. It's more of an overhang from the basic framing so both cars would actually go just under the edge. Plus there's the classic tennis ball marker hanging from the ceiling to protect my wife's shiny new Honda closest to the camera!
RSJB18 posted:new.
Roman- back to tubular? Tell us more, why the change?
Bob
Well, 3 things really. The layout as it is has been in the current unfinished state for several years and is rather hodgepodge to me with the accessories just kind of thrown in. I'm aiming for the Postwar display feel. My wife actually brought up redoing things and helping planning out a good track plan before final install. Great, huh!
The space roughly 4'x12'. I started with the idea of something hi-rail and of course O gauge fills that space up quick, especially with the accessories. I lost interest in building it as I didn't know what direction to go with it and just ran the trains. Seeing Chris Esposito's pictures over the years with his various layouts sparked the Postwar idea and I decided to go for it. Happily I kept a bunch of tubular track and switches so pretty much there's going to be little to no expense. Even the wood is left over from another failed layout project. I tried Gargraves flex to make my own curves years ago but was never pleased on how they turned out.
Last is I just didn't enjoy the look of my modern loco's on 036. It's nice to run them but the overhang is just a turn off. I have friend who has a huge outdoor setup with Atlas 080 plus curves that I can run nice long trains so I can get that out of my system. I've running mostly my Postwar stuff and smaller current era Lionel loco's at home.
Sounds like a good plan. Might as well enjoy what you have. I have a small layout and 027 curves so I know exactly what you mean. I only run short switchers and steamers.
keep us posted
The story so far...I purchased this Weaver Vo-1000 loco new many years ago when they first came out. I bought it at Just Trains of Delaware. The 1st unit I received went about 2 feet and died. Just Trains replaced it with a new one. That ran for 1 1/2 years or more then began exhibiting the behaviors of the 1st one and then finally died. Whatever warranty I might have had long since expired but I thought I'd take a chance and ask Weaver about it. Weaver fixed it and returned it to me free of charge. (Yay!, kudos so far to Just Trains and Weaver).
The repair from Weaver ran for another year or two and sure enough, began the tell-tale signs that death was imminent. By this time Weaver was gone and I'd had enough of this little engine's drama. My solution was to turn it into a non-powered dummy unit. Motors and electronics (that survived) and other innards were donated to my model train junkyard. Funny thing is, that a lot the locos that have served their purpose and eventually became dummies actually rack up more miles on the layout than when they were powered(!).
In its latest phase I decided to make it into a Penn Central unit. I figured this was an easy one to practice paint and decals on. The paint is satin black and there are a minimum number of decals to deal with. Still an non powered dummy.
The rivet counters among you might note that the PC didn't have any VO-1000's. What they did have was the model that succeeded it in the Baldwin “catalog”- the DS44-1000 which is very similar in appearance. Close enough for me!
-RM
Ralph M posted:
-RM
Nice engine recycle! I also like your industrial skyline! Cheers, Dave
Very nice work everyone. Dave (Darlander), I’d like to hear more about your method for the Tortoise switch machines.
Andy
Andy, My method is basically following the Tortoise directions. Check out the following links:
https://ogrforum.com/...88#82945629915714588 2/14/19 8:30am
https://ogrforum.com/...ge/83368077965467710 3/1/10 8:38am
Cheers, Dave
Thank you Dave.
Andy
Man, those Legos are everywhere!
Dave, Andy and Mike, I do my Tortoises a little differently. I don't follow their directions at all. I install a bell crank through the table top, using music wire. This method gives me a lot more flexibility than their direct drive. I can turn the Tortoise any direction, and like Dave points out, it's easy to to add a push rod to move the machine away from the switch, almost any distance. I have a few crazy ones on the layout. A couple are over 5' away from the switch they control.
This is an example of the bell crank I make. The brass tube is embedded in the benchwork. The top arm is bent first and goes directly to the switch throw bar. Once that is working smoothly and not binding, the lower arm is bent. Finally, a loop is bent on the end of the lower arm. This one has a clevis on it because I was using it to demonstrate my manual throwing method, and would have a push rod attached, but to use it with a Tortoise, just run the throw wire up through the loop (I also use heavier wire than comes with the Tortoise).
The beauty of this method is the lower arm can be at any angle from the upper arm, a full 360°. You also have four possible locations to drill for the tube placement. This gives you flexibility to avoid under table obstructions.
Another Tuesday with Patrick is in the books. Great progress on the skirting project. I was able to turn Patrick loose, installing the support rail while I actually hung skirting. BTW Patrick took all the pics too.
We picked up where we left off last week, with the curve at the end of aisle two.
Past the outlet, and around to a straight section at Pig's Eye.
Then all the way down the north side under the yard.
The clamps are off, and aisle two is done.
Then it was over to aisle three, around another outlet and a curve. I'm going to have to do some interesting cutting to let the trains through on the lower track.
And finally the long straight run down aisle four, under Hiawatha.
Here I am working on the skirting back in aisle one. All that sitting on the floor, and getting up and down is tough on that knee. It's doing OK today.
I'm done from Red Wing to Hastings, and have about 30' left in aisle one. I'll see how I feel tomorrow. I'd love to finish off aisle one and maybe start on two.
looking GREAT Elliot hope your knee feels OK after doing all that work !
Big_Boy_4005 posted:Dave, Andy and Mike, I do my Tortoises a little differently. I don't follow their directions at all. I install a bell crank through the table top, using music wire. This method gives me a lot more flexibility than their direct drive. I can turn the Tortoise any direction, and like Dave points out, it's easy to to add a push rod to move the machine away from the switch, almost any distance. I have a few crazy ones on the layout. A couple are over 5' away from the switch they control.
This is an example of the bell crank I make. The brass tube is embedded in the benchwork. The top arm is bent first and goes directly to the switch throw bar. Once that is working smoothly and not binding, the lower arm is bent. Finally, a loop is bent on the end of the lower arm. This one has a clevis on it because I was using it to demonstrate my manual throwing method, and would have a push rod attached, but to use it with a Tortoise, just run the throw wire up through the loop (I also use heavier wire than comes with the Tortoise).
The beauty of this method is the lower arm can be at any angle from the upper arm, a full 360°. You also have four possible locations to drill for the tube placement. This gives you flexibility to avoid under table obstructions.
Great input Elliot! Mike, hopefully you can now work your way around almost any structural obstacles.
Cheers, Dave
Big_Boy_4005 posted:
Nice looking, very clean and neat. Hopefully, I can come up this weekend to see it first hand. Can you believe this snow storm? It's almost a full repeat from last year and almost to the date. YUK!
In spite of the blowing snow - Cheers, Dave
Thanks Brian. If I work on it tomorrow, I'll have a better chance of not getting up and down so much, by working solo. I love having Patrick's help, but there's a lot going on when he's here. I have to cut materials with him, lunch break, and periodic questions that need answering. All perfectly legitimate, but each one is another up and down cycle on the knee. About a dozen cycles each session. It adds up, and by the mid afternoon it's barking pretty good. Of course, that's about when the morning Tylenol wears off. Decent recovery today though.
Thanks Dave. Why does the snow like to follow you around?
Warning: MnDot plans to have 94 eastbound, east of 494 - 694 totally closed all weekend, so I'll be fighting it coming home from my layout tour, and you'll be in it getting to my house. No really good alternates either. I bet 10th Street will be bumper to bumper. I may route myself over the top on 36 and drop down. That should be much quieter. Could go up 694 to to 34th St and go through Lake Elmo. It's a few miles shorter than taking 36. Westbound is going to be open.
Big_Boy_4005 posted:Thanks Dave. Why does the snow like to follow you around?
Thanks for the 94 heads up! I will plan to use 36 as I will be coming from the Roseville/Falcon Heights area. Hope the weather improves! Cheers, Dave
Apparently every U50 is broken
Jack118711 posted:Apparently every U50 is broken
Bummer! New in the box? At least a fix wouldn't show! Cheers, Dave
It was used. I got that fixed then noticed THERE’S THREE WIRES CUT IN HALF
Dave (DARLANDER) Thanks! I am really thinking of going that direction before I install anymore switches. I am just not sure I want to pull up the switches I already installed! I will P.M. You tomorrow sometime.
Ralph, Nice job on the engine redo! Looks great and a wonderful idea!
Elliot, thanks for the information! Like I told Dave I am really leaning that way, Just need to give more switches a try! Your skirting is looking amazing and I really like the price!
Jack That sucks twice! At least this one looks like an easy fix! Let us know how it goes!
Yesterday before I had to come to the store I got another Tortious switch machine installed! I am really pleased with the way they work!
That's about all I have got done as I am dealing with a water problem at the store and I will be back here again tomorrow. I hope to get some time in the train room tomorrow afternoon, but not sure!
Everyone have a great Thursday!
Big_Boy_4005 posted:Another Tuesday with Patrick is in the books. Great progress on the skirting project. I was able to turn Patrick loose, installing the support rail while I actually hung skirting. BTW Patrick took all the pics too.
We picked up where we left off last week, with the curve at the end of aisle two.
Past the outlet, and around to a straight section at Pig's Eye.
Then all the way down the north side under the yard.
The clamps are off, and aisle two is done.
Then it was over to aisle three, around another outlet and a curve. I'm going to have to do some interesting cutting to let the trains through on the lower track.
And finally the long straight run down aisle four, under Hiawatha.
Here I am working on the skirting back in aisle one. All that sitting on the floor, and getting up and down is tough on that knee. It's doing OK today.
I'm done from Red Wing to Hastings, and have about 30' left in aisle one. I'll see how I feel tomorrow. I'd love to finish off aisle one and maybe start on two.
Elliot looks great and I hope that knee feels better I really feel for you.
What did I do on the layout one last milk run
If you cannot apply enough pressure to keep a phillips seated, a slotted screw can still be driven. Without slotted screws I may not have progressed in my building abilities until my teens; a 5-10 year delay for me to hit 100lbs. (I was tiny until then)
Today you could toss most of both Phillips and slotted IMO. The squaredriver is all that plus a little. Never had one strip the head yet.
Nice bit of brainstorming on the power shelf Mike.
Retro my layout back to the mid 60s
briansilvermustang posted:
#4935 - GG1's my all-time favorite! My first Lionel train, #2332 Christmas 1947! Regretably, I sold it in the late 50's before I knew better. I currently have an MTH (#4935) replacement in my collection. It's nice, but it's not the same
Thanks Brian for the memory!!
Cheers, Dave
lee drennen posted:
Retro my layout back to the mid 60s
I had a '52 Ford pickup! The Flathead V8 finally had so many cracks from valve seats to cylinder edge that I couldn't get a hundred miles without having to refill the rad so I did a conversion to a '56 Thunderbird 312. Wow. You took me right back, Lee. Tnx!
Lew
Tortoise Switch Transfer Throw Assembly
Mike & Andy:
Note Diagram: As Elliot stated, you can locate the TSM far from the switch. The RC Gold-N-Rod kit I bought, limits you to 48” - the length of the 2 sleeves and slide bars supplied with the kit. Elliot's method would give you even greater spacing - he mentioned a 5' run. Do you have a Dremel tool? If so, routing the groove in the table top would be easy. You also need some small bits to drill a small hole through the yellow slide bar. The vertical pin that activates the switch throw bar should be force fit - I would not glue it. I would make the hole a little bigger for the switch machine wire. Note the bottom red rod: you need to cut out a slot, top and bottom of the red sleeve, both ends. Looking at the lowest rod, the one without the pin, notice the two slots, one at each end - one for the throw bar pin and one for the Tortoise throw. You can also see the yellow slide bar and the hole for the pin and Tortoise throw. I don’t know the exact size of the metal pin, but it is heavier gauge wire than the one packaged with the TSM. The diameter of the red tube is 3/16” so I hope that gives some perspective. They need to be piano or spring wire. I believe Hobby Lobby would be a good source for the replacement wire. Also note the remanent of hot glue on the red sleeves. This transfer assembly needs to be glued in place.
I hope that this gives you a better idea to the process I used to work around obstruction and clearance situations. Glad I reclaimed and saved these over the years. I knew that they might come in handy someday.
Happy Switch installation!
Cheers, Dave
Vincent Massi posted:Houston, we have an "Oy Vey"!Just seconds ago, the unmanned Israeli spacecraft "In the Beginning" crashed onto the Moon.
It sent us its last photo minutes before its engine failed during its unsuccessful landing attempt.
Been putting in many hours on the attic layout and finally got the new siding project close to finished.
Here is a drone shot. The six new sidings are on the far side.
Kevin
Not train related but... My wedding suit arrived gentlemen!! (And gentleladies if there are any in here)
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