What do you use to attach homasote..

Doug: I just used drywall screws for the homasote-to-plywood and then used Atlas"O" track screws for the track-to-homasote connection as they don't enter the plywood that way.

If the homosote is being used as a sound-deadening material, you shouldn't nail or screw it to the plywood, as the screws will transmit the sound and negate the effect of the homosote.   at least, that's the theory.   best way is to glue the homosote to the plywood.   use construction adhesive that comes in a tube that you put in your caulking gun.   PL400, Liquid Nails, ar any similar construction adhesive.   the homosote is very absorbent and I doubt you would get a good bond with wood (yellow) glue.   You may need to put some screws in to hold the homosote down until the glue sets, then you can back them out before proceeding.

good luck!

dave

I guess I broke all the rules. I used yellow glue and stapled the crap out of it with a 7/8" narrow crown staple. Quiet enough for me.

My dad and I used an air nailer to attach the homasote to my benchwork. On my layout, though, I used the homasote as the actual top for my benchwork rather than a top layer. It seems to deaden the sound enough for me.

I glued it down and then screwed down using dry wall screws to get it good and tight.  Next day, I backed all the screws out. 

 

Sometimes it helps to not have excess metal bits in the layout.  Particularly good not to have the tips of the screws protruding below while reaching about....

I have always glued it down with white glue, and used heavy books or other objects to keep it flat until the glue dried.  Worked for me, although there may be other methods that work equally well or even better.  I never used screws since they tend to negate the sound-dampening properties of the Homasote.

Glue the Homasote to the plywood base, and then we screw the track to the Homosote only; it's pretty quiet compared to track-on-plywood.

 

Ditto.........glue will do.

 

TEX

Steve

Doug N; I screwed the homasote directly to  2' X 3' pine benchwork & then screwed all different type of track & rail to the homasote & its very strong & sound!

If you decide you want to get real serious about it you can always go fasten less and  use a vac-press at 1700 lbs per square foot.
Notice the glue squeeze out.

Glue down with Elmer's white glue, no need for screws.  If you are using sectional track you may get away with using screws that only go into the homasote.  However if you are using flex track forget it.  You must screw into the plywood, atleast that is my experience using Gargraves flex track on curves.

 

Paul Edgar

 

 

I screwed mine down with drywall screws. It did not make any noticeable difference in sound transmission.

I use atlas flex and use screws into the homasote.   The screws do not reach the plywood and hold just fine.

 

Thanks everyone. It sounds like I have several options Doug

that's good to know.  I've suspected that the whole no-screw thing was more theory than substance:  look at the acreage of homosote and then at the tiny percentage of that which is actual contact point through the screws.

 

Screwing the track through the homasote and into the plywood will cause the problem. The track vibrates the screw and the screw vibrates the plywood causing the drum effect on the plywood.

 

The homasote does not vibrate so it is OK to screw to the plywood. The homasote does not vibrate so it is OK to screw the track to the homasote.

 

The homasote is the sound break.

 

If you want to glue the Homasote down screwing it down and removing the screws after the glue dries is very efficient.

I used two methods. I have a yard area where I glued the Homasote down then used Atlas screws through the track, Homasote and into the plywood. Just the tip of the screws hit the plywood. On the main layout I cut the Homasote 3 1/2" wide and laid the track on it and just screwed it down. I don't see any difference in sound on either side and if you need to modify the layout, it sure is easier to unscrew it than get it up with glue.

 

Bingo.  That's the best explanation I've heard in several threads on this question. Clear and logical.  Thank you.

I had a couple of situations when I first tried that way, the ties were on the screws holding the Homasote to the plywood and transmitted some noise.  Gluing the Homasote down solved the problems using track screws that held the ties to the Homasote but did not penetrate far enough to hit the plywood.

I just used clamps holding strips of wood on top of the Homasote until the glue dried then I didn't need to mess with screwing/unscrewing during the gluing process.  Worked well.

I am using Gargraves track and Ross turnouts ...

If you access the HiRail group in Yahoo, the photo file section has an album "Construction of the Cabin Lake & Western" whick has a lot of photos of the method we use for doing this with Homasote, plywood subroadbed, and Gargraves trackage with Ross turnouts ...

It's "free" to join and has a lot of neat layout pics from all sorts of 3rail folks.

 

I always use liquid nails and staple the roadbed in place.  After the adhesive is dry in 24 hours, remove the staples.  Simple and quiet.

Double sided indoor/outdoor carpet tape has worked for me.

 

Side Rod