Well, I use Atlas track rather than either.  You can buy roadbed "inserts"that slip onto the Atlas track from underneath, fitting tightly around all the ties, so you don't have to ballast it, if that is the reason you are looking at those two options.  I use Fastrack switches with the Atlas, though.  Most dependable switches made, IMO. 

Just don't use Mean Green to clean ANY type of track!

Lee,

Atlas track is easy to transition to tubular, so do you use a short piece of fastrack to tubular transition, then connect to Atlas, or another method?

Fastrack is better than Scaletrax because of the way the sections join together. Fastrack uses pins that slide into the opposite piece of track that gives a secure joint thus promoting good conductivity between sections. Scaletrax uses bent copper contacts that slide next to each other. They tend to bend or break thus causing loss of continuity. This is by far the most common complaint about Scaletrax. Also, in my opinion, Fastrack is better looking than Scaletrax.

Newbie, I can't vouch for either track, but Lionel & MTH do not make all the same curves, so take that into consideration.  Going from memory, Lionel makes O27, O36, O48, O72, etc.; while MTH makes O31, O42, O54, O72, etc. 

I recommend for a permanent layout to use gargraves track and Ross switches. Fastrack is great but if you are building a hirail layout the above is the best way to go. 

 

 

 

I think ScaleTrax is being confused with RealTrax.

 

 

 

RealTrax is the one with the built-in dark grey roadbed that's comparable to Lionel's FasTrack.  ScaleTrax is more like Atlas O's 21st Century track (no built-in roadbed, more realistic rail and tie profile) compared to RealTrax and FastTrack.

 

 

 

MTH RealTrax on the left, Lionel FasTrack on the right (all photos are from forum member Chuck):

 

 

 

 

 

From front to back:  Atlas O 21st Century track, MTH ScaleTrax, and MTH RealTrax:

 

Bob, Lionel has just come out with O31 Fasttrack.... it only makes 027 in tubular.

You're right John. I had a picture of Realtrax in my mind while my thumb typed out Scaletrax on my phone. One other thing I forgot to add, Fastrack switches operate VERY reliably as compared to Realtrax.

It's also important to note that until recently (the last year or two) RealTrax was also solid rail.  So you're more than likely to come across both; the solid will in all likelihood  be more common right now as it's been available for well over a decade and the hollow rail version is still relatively new.  The T-shaped rail profile and configuration is still pretty much the same.

 

Any track system with a hollow simulated roadbed is going to amplify noise from the trains compared to those without it, regardless if the rails themselves are hollow or not.

 

MTH Scaletrax does indeed have solid rail just like the Atlas O 21st century track system.

Speaking only about scaletrax if I had to do over I would not use saletrax. I initially made the switch to scaletrax because it had a lower profile and was a little less expensive than most. I purchased alot including their switches. I had to replace at least half of the 17 switches because the plastic control boxes broke very easy and the motors on the switch melted. I solved some of the problem by switching the plastic controls to the SPDT Momentary toggles. You also must watch the connectors on the scaletrax do bend easily. I would seriously reconsider using scaletrax if you had a better option. Good Luck

I picked Lionel FasTrack for my layout.  I have an n-scale layout and used Kato Unitrack, so I went with Lionel only because the Turnout's look more realistic in my opinion.  I would recommend getting one of the track programs and design you layout on the computer first.  I built my bench work using the L-girder method.  I was lucky to find cheap lumber at a local Builders Surplus Store. 

I still don't understand why I don't see a transition piece available for ScaleTrax; there's one for RealTrax, but I see no way to join ScaleTrax to other brands, or even to RealTrax.

 

After ruling out Fastrack, due to the noise and reading about a shortage of O36 turnouts, I had decided to try Lionel O27 with 42-inch curves, but I am not fully satisfied with the two 42" turnouts I have.  I had to tape up the points and center rail between them to stop short circuits from occurring, as the pick-up rollers and backs of the driving wheels would bridge the gap.  Plus, they do not allow for more complex track arrangements.  I would definitely consider Atlas O, Gargraves, or Ross as future options to build a permanent layout with.

 

By the way, are the FasTrack O36 switches still unavailable, or has production resumed?

 

Aaron

just my two cents but my layout is with fast track by Lionel.  it looks good runes good but the darn thing does not like to stay together.  I am always fixing a few pieces before I run my trans.  maybe I got some bad track but I am always fixing and wishing I had picked a better kind of track.  

thx everyone for the input....Sounds like Atlas or Gargraves tracks are the best way to go. Use Ross switches over anything else....

I guess I'll sell all my fastrax.

We switched over to Atlas track at the club and use it for all new track or re-alignments. We use Ross turnouts. Joining Atlas to Ross turnouts is a simple process of loosening the end ties on the Ross turnouts and moving them back about 1/4" from the end. Then you can use Atlas joiners to join the track pieces. Works perfectly.

 

"MTH Scaletrax is the closest to scale of the O gauge track systems."

ScaleTrax ties may be scale but the tie spacing isn't.  The most accurate scale track is Atlas O 2 Rail.

http://www.atlaso.com/o2railnstrack.htm

I would not recommend MTH Scaletrax switches. Although the track looks and performs well, the switches are not very good at all.

From my experience, the best switches for reliability are Ross and Fastrack. What track you use is not that important. Fastrack, Atlas, Gargraves, Scaletrax, Ross are all good.

In the 3-rail world, and assuming you're more interested in a hi-rail approach rather than the traditional toy train look, you really cannot go wrong with the GarGraves track/Ross switch combination (probably the most used combo in the hobby), or with MTH ScaleTrax or Atlas O.  

 

It's really a matter of personal preference, budget, and availability, and the very best way to decide, without exception, is to explore all options up close and personal by obtaining a few sections of each before deciding on a system to use.

I like to use Gargraves track and switches except when using MTH engines, then I would go with Ross or regular O K-Line or RMT tubular switches.

 

Some of the problems with pre-cast track like Fastrac and Realtrax is that you must buy the short pieces and it is not that easy to modify a track section in pre-cast tracks.

With tubular track you can cut to fit.

 

Lee Fritz

Lots of good points in this thread.

I'm going to Scaletrax for the look. And I have found an easy way to mate up Ross Switches with it.

Use the standard 5mm foam roadbed under the track and 2mm cork sheet under the Ross switches. The rails will line up very nice.  Also the Ross rails are shaped like the Scaletrax rails, they are just a tad taller.

And yes, Scaletrax flex is sweet sweet track. It bends so easy you can just screw down the start end and lay track on the lines. No pre-bending or screwing down every 3 inches needed. screw down both ends and the middle for an even curve, 2 more places in the length for a transition curve or for running without creep before you ballast.

Scaletrax switches can have a bit of tweaking needed. Contact the Hikel's for the info or search here. Problem seems to be caused by rails shifting and making shorts in the frog area. A bit of hot glue will maintain the needed gap.

 

And yes, Scaletrax is solid rail. Realtrax is no longer solid except for switches.

I have had a couple issues with the switches, but not as bad as some.

Fastrack switches had a good reputation, Atlas switches not so much but improving.

Realtrax and Fastrack are both hollow rail on plastic roadbed. Makes for a LOT of noise. Fastrack is slightly louder to my ear but has pins for good alignment, a tradeoff. Personally I hate the look of the rails on Fastrack.

Which is better scale trax vs fast trax..

 

This is the OP's initial question which seems to be asking about apples vs oranges. Does he mean REALTRAX vs Fastrack?

 

Newbie20 - What look are you trying to achieve with your layout?

 

Fastrack seems to be the track of choice for many with a traditional or toy train look while ScaleTrax, Atlas, and Gargraves are better suited for a more 'realistic' appearance.

 

As others have stated, they are ALL good choices for different means to an end!

 

Hi Rail or hirail is generally understood to mean building a 3-rail layout with the goal of making the overall look of the layout as realistic as possible; usually used to differentiate it from the "toy train look" which tends to use traditional tubular track, minimal scenery, and accessories that are more whimsical and oversized than realistic.

 

So no one mentioned Lionel Track(non-Fast track)...What are the pros and cons with that track system?

Probably because you originally didn't bring that to the table.

 

At any rate, regular 3-rail "tubular" track, which you are referring to, has been the de facto track and that most closely associated with O gauge, not to mention until the last few years, the standard track included in starter sets before getting displaced by FasTrack.

 

It's the cheapest of all the track systems already mentioned, study & rugged track, has what some may call the "classic" or "toy train look" that some prefer, holds up well to lots of use, and simple in design.  It also lends itself to easy custom track lengths with a saw.

 

It's also the least realistic looking of all 3-rail track, hollow and rounded-top rails instead of being T-shaped and solid like prototype track.  The average piece of track, both curved and straight, come with only 3 ties per section and are made of stamped steel.  Both outside rails are tied together (not insulated from each other) which means that if you want to use trackside-activated accessories like crossing signals or semaphores you will need to insulate one of the outside rails within the section(s) of track the accessory is to activate on.

 

Standard tubular also tends to be prone to having very tight tolerances with the connecting pins, meaning you may have to "force" two sections of track together harder than you would on other types of track.  Also over time, especially if you constantly assemble and disassemble the track, the holes in the rails tend to get wider over time, which can lead to loose track connections although crimping the holes with a pair of needlenose or regular pliers can fix that.

 

The only limiting factor is the availability of switch curvatures, as there typically is only O-27, O-31, and O-72 although K-Line has made O-42 and O-54 tubular switches in the past.  The other issue is that there have been many reports of poor quality of the modern releases of Lionel tubular switches over the past decade or so, so many tend to just either hunt down and use the K-Line or original 022 postwar-type switches.  Ross Custom switches has also within the last couple of years released a new line of tubular track-style switches in various configurations and there have been reports of people being satisfied with these switches as with the rest of their products.  Williams also has been offering O gauge tubular track within the past several years, although I haven't seen any indication that they make switches yet.

 

In the end, the choice you make is yours.  If you are designing a permanent layout and want track that is as realistic as possible and make your own roadbed within the confines of 3-rail then you'd want Atlas O, ScaleTrax, or even the postwar-style Super-O. 

 

If you want a traditional, postwar toy-type looking layout, permanent or otherwise, then classic tubular is the way to go. 

 

If you want a permanent or temporary layout and want something that is somewhat realistic looking that includes built-in simulated roadbed and with somewhat easier joining of track sections together then either FasTrack or RealTrax would be the best bet.

if you want to wait till the end of the year, bachmann is coming out with 3 rail ez-track. will look like the HO track with gray roadbed, I am looking forward to this track.

I will be running Lionel,Mth(Railking),Mth Premier ,LGB, Weaver and Williams engines....I plan to have an entire room and or single car garage devoted to the system.

 

Other than LGB any of the above can run well on Fast Track or ScaleTrax.  ScaleTrax would give you the option of using numbered switches for space efficient yards.  Gargraves/Ross would give you the greatest design flexibility with tradition tinplate switches, numbered switches and curved switches.

 

Some have said with the lower profile of scaletrax some larger engine don't run on them as well?

 

Large engines run perfectly well on ScaleTrax as long as the curve diameter meets the engine specification.  ScaleTrack O-72, No. 4 and No. 6 switches, O-72 curves and track will handle any 3 rail locomotive marketed to date.  The ScaleTrax system works particularly well with original pre-war and reproduction O gauge tinplate trains.  The 0.193 rail height still leaves plenty of room for 0.10 flanges.

 

What are the pros and cons with that (tubular) track system?

 

Pros:  It looks like toy train track of 75 years ago.  It is usually pretty cheep, except for modern Lionel O-72 switches.

 

Cons:  It looks like toy train track of 75 years ago.  The configuration choices are limited.  You get what you pay for except for modern Lionel O-72 switches - They are worth much less than their price.

 

 

ScaleTrax ties may be scale but the tie spacing isn't.  The most accurate scale track is Atlas O 2 Rail.

 

Chuck

 

Atlas tie spacing is representative of average tie spacing on modern main line track.  If someone is modeling modern spur tracks, yards or sidings or steam era track Atlas spacing may be too close. 

 

The Atlas ties are deeper than scale ties.  ScaleTrax ties match scale wood ties in all three dimensions and that comes in handy for situations like roundhouses and bridges.

 

With 3D scale ties, the closest to scale running rails and thin center rail I'll stick with my comment that ScaleTrax is the closest to scale 3 rail track system.

 

.....at least until we see something like Code 172 RosScale. 

In my opinion, you--and anyone else for that matter--cannot go wrong with the detailed suggestions Ted Hikel posted in this thread.  Pretty much covers all the bases.

I personally have lots of Fastrak and I think it is the worst track on the market.

It is very very noisy even when running slow trains. The tabs come loose and do not keep the track tight together. If the track is not tight or aligned perfect it does not maintain a good DCS/TMCC signal or good power contact.

 

Anyting else on the market is better, even the RMT Supersnap track ( I have lots and use that a lot at quick show setups and it is great)

 

Everyone has covered most of everything else as listed above.

 

I have most of the other track systems and they are mostly all quiet for the  layout when mounted over quiet road bed except for the Lionel Fastrak.

I am using FasTrack on two home layouts at the present time (one equipped with both DCS and Legacy), and my experience is just the opposite of kj's.  Interesting, huh? 

 

Technically it's spelled FasTrack, with an uppercase "T."  Otherwise 100% correct.

FasTrack may not be the most sophisticated in the world and yes, it is noisy IMO.  But I'm surprised to hear people complain that the track sections don't hold together very well.  I had always thought that was one of it's big selling points -- the strength of piece signed track sections.  I've used it for about 7 yeas now with my layout and have not had those kinds of issues.

 

- Mike

I believe the sound problem is mostly related in what you use to build base for your layout.  The other thing is running any engine with sound it overpowers any sound problem with the track you use.  I am also surprised with the complaint relating to Lionel FasTrack separating.  From what I have read on posts here on the forum, it is one of the best carpet layout track on the market and keeps good conductivity.

 

TEX

Steve