Why Paint Rail "Rust"?

The timing of this post matches my interest. I was researching how I'd do it to get the look I wanted. I have two RRs to weather the track on. The G scale stainless outside will probably require more effort. I've learned that spraying it will help the ties last longer against the sun's rays.

 Down stairs, I'm playing with ideas. Here's a quick line-up of my track. The mainline is currently Atlas 2 rail flex laid onto cork. above that is MTH scaletrax. Below is the Micro-engineering weathered rail. I cleaned the top surface of the rails on the bottom version.

 Not the best lighting or angle for the camera. I'm considering if the pre-weathered track is the way to go? Also if I should spray everything else, like the Scaletrax. I like the post of getting rid of the black on the center rail. I bought some brown pens and didn't like the translucent look.

 I'm also looking at changing to Homosote roadbed?

I've got 3000 ft to deal with. My back is hurting just thinking about it.

Joe,

I've heard ME weathered rail is a real pain to curve. If you have not tried to curve any of it, I would do so before buying a pile of it!

As for the black on the center rail, I'd get rid of that by getting rid of the center rail!

There are many options for road bed.

Simon

1) I swear this stuff does not bend! (in the correct direction)

2) I'm adding a rail on one high line loop. How do I then get rid of that?

      
mine is hurting for you with 3000'

Railroad Tie Brown.

Dave C here on the forum was in exactly the same boat as you are.  The trick is to get an airbrush that will allow you to spray a very thin line, which for me means that my Pasche Model H is not my go-to air brush.  

I just bought an Iwata for doing weathering of track and MP&E in HO.  I think that brush, along with a portable air compressor (which I also bought) would be the cat's meow for doing the weathering.  Faster than a paint pen, and I think it would end up better looking. 

If you get some overspray on the ballast, no big deal.  Go and look at photos, and there will be an accumulation of brake shoe dust, gearcase leakage from locomotives, and back in the day, journal bearing oil from cars and locos. 

I've posted a couple of photos that Dave C posted here years ago, as I've always been impressed by his work.  Nothing short of fantastic, and a great inspiration when I was in three rail.  His techniques work well in two rail, and in smaller scales too.   

Dave, if you are reading this, I hope you do not mind my posting these pics.

Regards,

Jerry

These 3 storage yard tracks were sprayed with camo brown cans before the track was put down permanently. We fit the track, soldered the feeders to the bottom, pulled the track back out, took it outside to spray it, cleaned the rail head, and put the track back in. It was just easier than my big butt trying to crawl around up there and not kick anything around while trying to airbrush it.

Depending on what colors one uses for the running rails and how one weathers, I'm not sure I agree that it isn't worthwhile to keep the center rail black. I think the photo of Dave C's very nice work above is a good example of how lighter brown (or grey) colored running rails can visually "pop"  against the darker ties while a blackened center rail then seems less obtrusive. That's the effect I've tried to achieve:

I painted my rails Floquil rail brown, That looks more like old rust than Floquil rust. On little used spurs I also dust them with chalks. And for yards and terminals I mix rail brown with grimy black, this gives the rails a gritty look. I still have some Floquil paints, but when they're gone I will have to find a substitute.

Here in northeast PA, much of the rail is brownish gray, to a blackish gray. There are blotches and streaks of orange rust. Some of the rust is from the thin flakes that are caused by wear of the top of the rail. New rail sitting in stacks tend to be more of an orange brown, tops and sides. From all the replies, rail aging and oxidation vary in different areas of the country. A good weathering job does make for a more authentic pike, so observing and photographing the rails in the areas one wishes to model is a good place to begin. I just wish I had a layout to weather!

Don