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Hello all,

I’m starting construction of a new ~1,000 ft2 Fine Scale On30 layout using NCE DCC, ME flex track, ME turnouts/Tortoise machines, and 14 Ga. Buss with 22 Ga. drops.  On my previous, similarly sized TMCC/Legacy controlled O gauge hi-rail layout I used 14 Ga. buss/wire drops with wire nuts.  I had zero problems with electrical connections  or command control issues.

 

My question is: can I use wire nuts on the new DCC On30 layout? (I really like the flexibility of using wire nuts.  Also, I  saved a lot sections of 14 Ga wire and wire nuts I’d like to reuse.)  A good friend strongly recommends using suit case connectors.

 

Please, technical, not preference responses.

TIA,

Last edited by wbg pete
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Many here like the suitcase connectors, I do not. I am with you and prefer the wire nuts. Much easier to trouble shoot, add to, remove from, re-work etc. I use wire nuts and terminal strips on my DCS/Legacy layout and they work just fine here too.

 

I have never had a DCC system, but I can't see how wire nuts would be any different than suitcase connectors as far as the wire and signals are concerned? I see no reason why wire nuts would not be as good or better than other connection methods?

Last edited by rtr12

Opinion:

Electrically speaking......."That will do"  or "That's good enough" can come back to bite you.   Our disposable society looks for the easiest, cheapest, quickest way to do most anything.  IMO do not let ease of installation be a big factor.

 

Wire nut connections need protection which exceeds crossed fingers.  Firmly clamp the wire adjacent to the wire nut.  Waytech has one of the best prices on plastic wire clamps.  Bags of 100 are about $3.oo.  Affordable enough to stock all the right sizes.

 

Suitcase connectors, like wire nuts, need to be selected according to the wire size used.  Be careful with the red and pink series.  Some can look the same but are for different wire size.

 

I do use suitcase connectors selectively but they do need to be installed properly and with the correct 3M tool.

 

Any crimp terminals used on solid wire need a touch of solder.

 

Different size wires or mixing solid and stranded, IMO get soldered.

I was convinced to use suitcase and will never go back again I can see the use for it but I will stick to wire nuts and terminal blocks. I have a bunch of suitcase under my train table that as I change my wiring I have to cut out to do what I need to and in some cases rewire as now to short ( I hate 2" - 6" pieces to make it fit unless thats really what it takes to do the job ( ie from one outside rail to the other ) 

I prefer wire nuts as you can add any size wire with the correct size wire nut. Stranded wire works best with wire nuts but can become expensive on a very large layout compared to solid wire. Solid wire needs to be twisted first for best connection with a wire nut.

 

I have used suitcase connectors in the past and got so frustrated I threw them all away!! The suitcase connectors don't work properly and come undone with heavy vibration from a large steam engine or long train going by on the layout.

 

Lee Fritz

Originally Posted by Wood:

Terminal blocks and wire nuts. 

 

No matter how good your plan is you will be changing the wiring to make modifications or add new additions to your layout.  Suitcase connectors make if very difficult to test the wiring, change the wiring, and add multiple wires to one lead.

 

 

Why does it have to be one or the other? There is absolutely no reason that you can't use both suitcase connectors and wire nuts on your layout. In fact, I will often use a wire nut to combine several wires with 1 wire that goes to a suitcase connector.

 

And as long as you have a long enough lead from your suitcase connector, you can always cut it at any time to make changes by joining it to one or more wires using a wire nut.

 

As long as you use them properly, suitcase connectors are reliable. I have wire nuts and suitcase connectors that have been in use for 30+ years without ever having even the slightest problem.

Last edited by DennisB

I've used a Buchanon C24 tool for most of my connections. Not every one has access to this tool.

2008S crimp ring.

Splice is finished with a 2007 Buchanon cap.

 

A splice should have a relatively good surface to surface contact area and be tight. Note the additional twisting pictured, showing the insulation beyond the twist nut, also involved in the splice.  Bottom diagram.  If the twist nuts fall off,  they were not properly installed.  More torque is necessary. 

 At one time this small plastic adaptor/wrench was available in large bags of Buchanon B1 (yellow) and B2 (Red) twist nuts.  They could be use in a drill driver for additional torque.  A full day of splicing, even for the best of the young journeyman, left the hands and forearms sore and in need of care. IMO.

 

IMO Take your time and do splices correctly. I've made a good living fixing splices that weren't done properly. 

 Mike CT

Last edited by Mike CT

Wago Lever Locks.

 

This is a link into eBay, but I recommend buying from one of our forum sponsors, Menards, where you always save more money.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/70PCS-...;hash=item2a4bcc293a

 

The advantage to this product is it takes solid or stranded wire, and you can change your mind. The disadvantage is limited wire size (14 and 12 work for sure, don't know about 16), and cost.

 

I used them to clean up my TPC wiring.

 

Last edited by illinoiscentral

Thought I'm not a DCC user, I prefer wire nuts to suitcase connectors because the suitcase connectors cut into the cross section of the wires. While the blade is conductive, I've never liked compromising the structure of the wire. Wire nuts preserve the wire cross section, plus enhance the contact surfaces through the twist. For a permanent connection, a soldered tap or Western Union splice is what I'd prefer.

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