wiring illuminated rocker switches

Three terminal lighted switches usually have a source on one terminal, a load on a terminal, and common on the third which completes the circuit for the lamp when the switch is turned on and the lamp's other lead is connected to the load internally.

Do you have a proposed wiring diagram or one you tried that does not work that you could share?

This switch?

here's the diagram. The light needs DC.

or this one

Actually, 12 vac would be fine for the lamp too. If I were using the switches on 18vac tmcc, I'd use a diode in series with all the lamps by tying all the pin 3s together and diode to common. The source goes on pin 1 and the load on pin 2.

I think it would help if Wally identified which switches he purchased, and what behavior he wants. Using the switch  Moonman provided as a reference:

Terminal #3 gets the ground (common) connection (same as outside rails)
If you only want the light on when the track is hot, then #2 goes to the track, and #1 goes to the power.

If you want the light on all the time, then #1 goes to the track, and #2 goes to the power.

Sorry for the delay guys. I've been trying to get an LED dimmer switch to work on our old church circuit w/ only two wires in box. But that's another story.

The rocker switches are Del City 7500025 & 7500029 SPST AC incand bulbs, 10A rating. Turns out one switch was bad. Two others work but no light. CW Burnie & cjack said #1 hot/source and #2 common/track; that works. But #3 to outer track does not light the rocker bulb and the outer rails are powered (lighted car sitting there). Do I need to run a direct line from common to the switch #3 post?

Wally

From the Del City site...

"Illumination voltage: AC=110V"

You have to buy the 12 vac or dc illumination voltage switches to work with 18 vac as in Legacy track voltage.

Lets clarify some terms. #1 pin of the switch goes to the source of 18vac from the A, B, C, or D terminal of the transformer.

#2 pin of the switch goes to the load, that is, the center rail of the block you are switching on and off.

#3 pin of the switch goes to the common outside rail that is continuous on the whole layout and comes from the U terminals of the transformer.

I think your problem, even when you have it wired correctly, is that the switches you bought need 110 vac to light the incandescent bulb. Assuming you are using the TMCC or Legacy track voltage of 18 vac and you buy the illuminated switches that require  either 12 vac or 12 vdc to light the bulbs, then you can common all the #3 pins together and connect a diode, with the arrow pointing away from the #3 pins and the cathode (the flat line) connected to the common outside rail.

Note also that it is very difficult to get the lamp requirements from the Del City site. In fact I finally found the quote I listed above.

http://www.delcity.net/store/I...und-Rockers/p_788794

Here are the switches you should be buying...

http://www.delcity.net/store/I..._788798.h_788807.t_1

All these switches are good for ac or dc as far as the switch contacts are concerned. The difference of ac or dc for a switch contact only has to do with a maximum rating in amps or voltage rating...and for what you are using them for, 18 vac and less than 10 amps ac, all of them are good to use.

Your only issue is the illumination voltage required for the lamps. You need the 12 vdc rating for the illumination, and the incandescent or LED bulbs are fine with 18 vac if you use the diode as I described.

Also, following Chuck's fine guidance, the siding center rail must be insulated from primary track power, ie., after the switch.

Some time ago I first purchased the 12V rectangular ones Moonman first referred to; I recently purchased the round ones (110VAC and Moonman's 2nd rec.) since it is easier to drill and mount. Voltage may be the problem since they won't light. I may buy what cjack recommended, the round 12V and tie in the collective #3 terminals via a common diode but with WHAT SIZE DIODE? I run DCS but it's still 18vac like Lionel. When I said the outer rails were "powered" I simply meant that there was a complete circuit and the track was operational, and therefore I expected the switch lights to work. such is life. I may even go with what I have for now so I can get up and running for the holidays and correct it later.   Wally & thanks much everybody. 

Thanks Moonman; I did insulate the Phantom track center rail from the Ross switches in all eight yard tracks. That, of course, is what I'm trying to wire back in to power with the rocker switches (hope to be lighted). Source (A post ZW) of 18vac to terminal block where all eight insulated tracks are tied in to rocker switches and back to insulated tracks.That part works; I just want lighted rocker switches to help keep track of everything.

Wally

Cool Wally! You have it.

because of the issue with the standard lighted rockers, I went with lighted bumpers at the ends to indicate on\off. I also use an SC2. I think that you can use the ports of an AIU. But, I see you prefer the manual approach.

here's Dale H.'s link. to voltage dropping. I would use four bridge rectifiers in Dale's diagram to drop 18v close to 12v. They could be mounted near the terminal block common with only the wire running to the switches. email him if you need more help. Digi-key is probably the least expensive including shipping.

One diode will result in a half wave voltage which will reduce the average current thru the bulbs to an acceptable level. The individual bulb current is unknown but guess less than 100 ma. So a one amp diode should handle 10 bulbs. To be on the very safe side, figure 5 bulbs per 1 amp diode. Any voltage rating over 50 volts will do.

You could use a 6 amp diode,or 3 leads of a 10 amp or more bridge rectifier. Here is a diagram of a bridge. Hook the input to the DC+ or DC-,depending on polarity needed. Connect the AC leads together and to the output. You will get half waved pulsed DC.

If 18 volt input and an LED is used instead of the 12 V bulb, a 1000 ohm half watt resistor in series to each LED should protect it.

Dale H