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Annually, we set up a pretty large train display in our Town Hall. I have installed 12vdc LED strips in all the buildings, wire them up & run them from a 9-10 vdc wall wart for the month. I connect everything up using multiple screw terminals.
Looking to streamline the process, I am going to mount 3-4 buildings onto a base and wire all the buildings together. I am looking for an easy way to connect all the blocks together. 
Should I also consider throwing a buck converter on each block to serve as an overload protector? If someone accidentally hooks it up to higher voltage or AC, would the buck converter act as a voltage regulator and save the LEDs, (and me reinstalling all of them)?
I am also looking at putting a couple exterior wall lights on the buildings and some street lamps, which all are SMD LEDs at 3 vdc. Can I wire three or four exterior lights to a single resistor, or do I need one resistor per fixture? Should I put a second buck converter to protect the 3 vdc leds? 
Looking to construct the blocks of buildings and not interested in rebuilding or fixing them next year or the year after. Not against putting a little extra in to protect them long term.

Thanks in advance...

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The experts will weigh in, but it seems to me you have it pretty well thought out.  I think it’s a plan.  Keep track of how many leds you power from the buck converters and you’re golden.  I do the same thing on a small scale, works great.  This photo shows a system(looks like a mess I know) that’s worked since 12/4, 13 hours a day(minus tree) and hasn’t missed a lick.

780B4F55-B476-4335-99E9-84BA08E33C22

E3F76F56-FB05-42BA-A75D-216204EA16D1

 

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Last edited by TedW

  A simple way to avoid a possible mix up and speed reassembly are different shaped and/or differently keyed plugs, like Molex, etc..

Clearly mounting and labeling the terminals, and maybe  creating a color chart etc. will all be nice later, as the easier you make future set ups, the sooner you'll forget how you've wired it up  

A regulator board(s) to accept voltage ac or dc up to 25v on each would make it all near foolproof and pretty much "universal".  Is that what your converter boards are? 

One small resistor can feed a number of leds, the larger watt size, the more it power it can feed without cooking; but "8ohm is 8ohm" in ⅛w or ¼w etc. If you burn a finger on it, you might consider a larger sized one.

I just use two leds (or 1 led 1 regular diode) back to back and one resistor to dial it "bright" at 18v-25v; at that point it is an ac/dc bulb.

 

A simple way to avoid a possible mix up and speed reassembly are different shaped and/or differently keyed plugs, like Molex, etc. 

Here are some of the plugs I’ve used.  Each has it’s place/application.  Street lamps, or multiple lights on a common voltage, these work well.  Tie the commons together on one wire and 5 +’s on the rest.  

96B2E6A7-9285-44E7-A583-EBB31026D35E

 

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In this forum IF you were to search ATX Power Supplies, (old computer power supplies), you will find the ideal power source.  This power supply EASILY modified will provide 12vdc, 5 vdc, & 3.5 vdc.  I have two on my layout, actually needed only 1, but used 2 to reduce wiring runs.  I have a small terminal strip at each grouping of buildings, and can use the 12v lights that are in most buildings, use the 3.5 for LED strips, and the 5vdc when I have a Miller Engineering type sign.  It ALL works well.  Provides various intensities of lights, eliminates numerous wall worts, and very inexpensive.

Hi Roger,

I recently viewed the video of TWTrainworx setting up the New York transit Museum display. They use RCA jacks for the main connection.

I would label, obscenely bright and visible , the input of your "blocks" or board assemblies with 12VDC ONLY! in case of your absence.

Then, use the voltage control boards as needed installed on the block or board assembles hidden in a building.

Then, you only need a 12volt DC main supply to a bus or distribution line. There are commercial lighting transformers if the amperage exceeds an HO train transformer.

Don(Cerritos) posted:

In this forum IF you were to search ATX Power Supplies, (old computer power supplies), you will find the ideal power source.  This power supply EASILY modified will provide 12vdc, 5 vdc, & 3.5 vdc.  I have two on my layout, actually needed only 1, but used 2 to reduce wiring runs.  I have a small terminal strip at each grouping of buildings, and can use the 12v lights that are in most buildings, use the 3.5 for LED strips, and the 5vdc when I have a Miller Engineering type sign.  It ALL works well.  Provides various intensities of lights, eliminates numerous wall worts, and very inexpensive.

308CCF62-0398-40C4-A47B-95723B07758D

 

 

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Don(Cerritos) posted:

In this forum IF you were to search ATX Power Supplies, (old computer power supplies), you will find the ideal power source.  This power supply EASILY modified will provide 12vdc, 5 vdc, & 3.5 vdc.  I have two on my layout, actually needed only 1, but used 2 to reduce wiring runs.  I have a small terminal strip at each grouping of buildings, and can use the 12v lights that are in most buildings, use the 3.5 for LED strips, and the 5vdc when I have a Miller Engineering type sign.  It ALL works well.  Provides various intensities of lights, eliminates numerous wall worts, and very inexpensive.

Would this power supply be okay for menards buildings, there 4.5vdc and loaded up with leds, or should i add a few resistors and make a power divider 

I've got a good 12vdc power supply. I'm looking at making set up quicker by the use of some universal, easy to use quick connects. 


I'm also looking at installing a safety measure that protects the LEDs in the event someone accidentally messes things up and hooks it to track power 18 vac. Accidents happen, I just want to try and prevent them.

I think I've settled on the spring type connections you see on the back of speakers. The connection will be labeled and color coded for polarity. If I install a buck converter in each block, the accidental 18 vac won't affect the LEDs, in theory. Black & red spring connections and a roll of black & red speaker wire.

I looked at actual connections, but then I'm locked into wire length between buildings. The spring connections open me up to any layout and any wiring within reason, and I'm not running the risk of messing up small delicate connectors from repeated use.Using the push type springs, I can also branch more then one set of wires out of the connections. 

I'll just wire the exterior lights with resisters after the buck converter.

Squirrelstrains posted:
Don(Cerritos) posted:

In this forum IF you were to search ATX Power Supplies, (old computer power supplies), you will find the ideal power source.  This power supply EASILY modified will provide 12vdc, 5 vdc, & 3.5 vdc.  I have two on my layout, actually needed only 1, but used 2 to reduce wiring runs.  I have a small terminal strip at each grouping of buildings, and can use the 12v lights that are in most buildings, use the 3.5 for LED strips, and the 5vdc when I have a Miller Engineering type sign.  It ALL works well.  Provides various intensities of lights, eliminates numerous wall worts, and very inexpensive.

Would this power supply be okay for menards buildings, there 4.5vdc and loaded up with leds, or should i add a few resistors and make a power divider 

I have 3 of the Menards building, all 3 of which is connected directly to the 5v output of the ATX.

BTW TedW, Thank for posting a picture of thee PS & Output PCBA.  That is the same thing I am using.

John H posted:

I use these Wago Connectors either to connect multiple buildings to the same switch or multiple lights in the same building. I think they are much easier to use than the Spring clips. I use Gorilla Glue to mount them.

My son and I are in the process of remaking our floor layout and I'm using Wago connectors extensively from the transformers all the way out to "local" distribution like you are.  I love them.  Once the whole thing is done I will post something about the results.

Heck - a few months ago I built a tube guitar amp on a board using Wagos for all of the interconnections. It makes experimenting with a design about as easy as using a breadboard (which typically aren't rated for the high voltages used) and component/subcircuit swaps become trivial.

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