Yet another O22 switch question - resolved

Since this ins't a prized possession and O22s are fairly common, I would simply punch out the O22-36 drive screws from the bottom side to liberate the O22-34 nameplate. That should then also free the O22-69 hex nut and the broken screw.

I've never had any real issues with the screws on the O22 switches provided they were not flooded out in brine and that the correct screws were used, but if a little WD-40 or similar makes you feel better, it shouldn't hurt anything.

Bmoran4.  Thanks.  I was thinking that way but wanted some confirmation I would not get an “OMG if you try and punch those you are guaranteed to shatter the Bakelite.”.

I will give it a try.

I should expound upon my 

@bmoran4 posted:

Since this ins't a prized possession and O22s are fairly common

statement... This isn't a zero risk operation. With proper care and force, you probably won't shatter the whole Bakelite backing, but you may absolutely strip out the holes the drive pins are in requiring use of a glue/epoxy to secure the drive pins upon reassembly.

Glad you posted Bill.  It sounds like you might already have several switches.  And if you're trying to authentically re-create a Postwar layout, O22s are a must.  But for just a moment I urge you to consider Ross track and switches instead.

My experience with O22s is that they are "bumpy."  Engines and cars clunk through them with an occasional derailment.  Ross switches are so much smoother!  Plus the Ross track "system" has many special pieces that allow you to create space-saving track arrangements that would be impossible with Lionel tubular.  More realistic, and more fun in the same space.

I don't have any relationship with Ross except being a satisfied customer.  So for me, the answer to any O22 switch question, is "Ross!"  Ultimately it's your choice, and I wish you fun and success with whatever system you end up using.

Just closing this out.  I was able to “press” the drive screws out of the name plate, replace the nut and then press the screws back in.  

Unfortunately I have had three other switches where the motor nut screws would not come out and broke off even with liquid wrench help. Interesting that it has only been the ones under the name plate.   Oh well I was successful getting the drive screws out of those plates too. 

Thanks for everyone’s input and help.

Wow - i've never had such troubles. I wonder if someone used the wrong screws? Or did these come from a damp/humid environment and rust up badly?