3 Railed! US Hobbies NYC H10b class Mikado….. Tales From Harmon Shops

Very nice!  I will look at those photos on the big computer.

I might have missed it - what happens with the leftover parts?

@bob2 posted:

Very nice!  I will look at those photos on the big computer.

I might have missed it - what happens with the leftover parts?

Bob, Thank you!….compliments from you are a truly meaningful!…

leftovers are sold off to the highest bidder,…..and in 2 rail land, that doesn’t take long,.….I’ve got a few of these under my belt now, and I’m beginning to wonder if the parts are worth more than the model!!!…….anyways, it’s a great way to keep a project’s budget from swelling up into the upper atmosphere,…..again, thank you sir!….

Pat

It doesn't look like the same engine.  IT looks great!

You just keep amazing me. That is super fantastic.

Yep... you've done it again. Awesome!

👍 👍 👍

Mark in Oregon 🎄

Great job. I agree. In the future to get a desired model for 3 rail that’s been made in 2 rail brass. It’s either wait it out and hope 3rd rail makes one. Or go this route.

Beautiful job.

Pat another beautiful HarmonYards product rolls out of the shop.  Compared to most of your other upgrades this one appears to be fairly simple.  Seems like even I could pull it off but I'm sure the $$$$$ wouldn't allow an attempt.  Just curious where did the back head come from and why was it the junk box?

@Mark Boyce posted:

It doesn't look like the same engine.  IT looks great!

@Dave_C posted:

Great job. I agree. In the future to get a desired model for 3 rail that’s been made in 2 rail brass. It’s either wait it out and hope 3rd rail makes one. Or go this route.

@Danr posted:

Beautiful job.

@coach joe posted:

Pat another beautiful HarmonYards product rolls out of the shop.  Compared to most of your other upgrades this one appears to be fairly simple.  Seems like even I could pull it off but I'm sure the $$$$$ wouldn't allow an attempt.  Just curious where did the back head come from and why was it the junk box?

Thanks for the compliments fellas!!….

Coach, the back- head is salvaged from a heavily damaged Lionel Smithsonian Dreyfuss Hudson. At one time, there was a fella on that unmentionable site that sold a lot of Smithsonian parts,….the entire front of that shell was squashed (brass too) I had bought that shell specifically some day to harvest the back-head,…..it was like 15-20 bucks plus shipping, so a lot cheaper than buying piece by piece from PSC or Stevenson’s…..

Pat

Great achievement, but disappointing, in that you had to find a fitting chassis, lucky, vs. three railing a two rail chassis.  Probably no fitting three rail chassis exists for ANY of the models l'd like (except one).. But l hope to see more of this type of effort .

@colorado hirailer posted:

Great achievement, but disappointing, in that you had to find a fitting chassis, lucky, vs. three railing a two rail chassis.  Probably no fitting three rail chassis exists for ANY of the models l'd like (except one).. But l hope to see more of this type of effort .

There’s always one,…..disappointing??….are you nuts??….these aren’t built for looking at, or for sitting on a shelf, they’re built to run, and run for long periods of time….without failure, with out break downs, ….this wasn’t a cop-out doing the chassis swap, it was specifically planned to use a modern 3 rail diecast chassis and be able to run the dog snot out of it and not be spitting brass parts all over the place. Yes, lucky the MTH USRA was nearly a drop in, but if it wasn’t, the hunt would have continued, …..chassis from a Connie, etc,…I’m sorry you’re disappointed, ….I’ll try better next time dad,….

Pat

Talk about exploded view. This sounds like one of those dynamite projects that looks like a daunting task from the start, but you only need to get a foot in the door as it were. Fantastic job Pat, can't wait to see the video with it running. I bet this will pull another kitchen sink load and then some.

Here’s the shake down video before we headed to paint, …I do need to thank my buddy Lou ( Lou1985 ) for the help on the PS2 3V wiring …..wanting to keep the stock apron on the KTM meant no giant Anaconda tether hanging between the engine & tender…..again, this is another benefit of doing these swaps, it’s the good friends and great conversations with buddies in the know,…..so Lou helped me figure out the best and easiest way to straight tether the system …..runs like a champ!…pulls 35 cars without breaking a sweat!….

Pat

Very nice running, Pat!  I'm glad Lou was able to help out with PS2 3v wiring!

@Mark Boyce posted:

Very nice running, Pat!  I'm glad Lou was able to help out with PS2 3v wiring!

Thanks Mark,….I’ll post up another video of the finished product once my graphics guy pays a visit and does all the lettering and cab numbers,…….it’s nice to surround yourself with talent to make a project come to life!..my graphics guy is top shelf, and fortunately for me, ….he makes house calls,…😉

Pat

You did a wonderful job on the locomotive.I hope 3rd Rail gets some more reservations so they can release their NYC H10

@MR-150 posted:

You did a wonderful job on the locomotive.I hope 3rd Rail gets some more reservations so they can release their NYC H10

I have a reservation with them too!…I’m sure Scott’s model will be top shelf!..

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

I have a reservation with them too!…I’m sure Scott’s model will be top shelf!..

Pat

I have one as well but I'm beginning to wonder if it will ever get done.  What's it been two years now, and still waiting for a production date.  Incredible work by the way.

@superwarp1 posted:

I have one as well but I'm beginning to wonder if it will ever get done.  What's it been two years now, and still waiting for a production date.  Incredible work by the way.

Kinda why I did what I did,…..😁….Scott’s doing the a, so this b will fill my hunger pains,….wouldn’t hesitate to do it again too,…..as many Mike as the Central operated ….

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

There’s always one,…..disappointing??….are you nuts??….these aren’t built for looking at, or for sitting on a shelf, they’re built to run, and run for long periods of time….without failure, with out break downs, ….this wasn’t a cop-out doing the chassis swap, it was specifically planned to use a modern 3 rail diecast chassis and be able to run the dog snot out of it and not be spitting brass parts all over the place. Yes, lucky the MTH USRA was nearly a drop in, but if it wasn’t, the hunt would have continued, …..chassis from a Connie, etc,…I’m sorry you’re disappointed, ….I’ll try better next time dad,….

Pat

I think what he meant was it was "disappointing" (to him) that the original chassis couldn't be 3 railed (?)

I have zero experience with US Hobbies stuff, but from the look of the chassis in your 4th photo, that big ol' open frame motor looks pretty robust and capable of "dog snotting". 🙂

In any case, another great conversion. 👍

Mark in Oregon 🎄

@Strummer posted:

I think what he meant was it was "disappointing" (to him) that the original chassis couldn't be 3 railed (?)

I have zero experience with US Hobbies stuff, but from the look of the chassis in your 4th photo, that big ol' open frame motor looks pretty robust and capable of "dog snotting". 🙂

In any case, another great conversion. 👍

Mark in Oregon 🎄

I’m sorry for his loss Mark,…

Pat

Pat, that is remarkable. What a beauty. For me, I wouldn’t paint it. It looks great bare. Also, hats off to GRJ for his remarkable electronic add on enhancement items that really bring these engines to life.

Spectacular.

I did watch the video at lunch, but didn't have time to get a comment off. Seems like sometimes lunch lasts forever, today it flew right out the window and no time to wait to get back to the clock.

It does look good coming down the rails all "golden", but this is going to be one heck(I mean the other H-word) of a black beauty. This locomotive has that good look, like all do with their perspective classes, what with the air tank(top front right) at the top of the front of the locomotive. Reminds me of my Uncle Dick's old post war locomotives from days long past. No clue what engine he had that had the air tank up front on it, but I do know he has a lot of the golden post war engines.

I'll be waiting for that other video when you post it Pat. Also, great to see your network of researchers/friends came through like they tend to do when you need them. 👍🐻

Edit:

I would state that the work shown here, makes this engine a runner. That means the world to me. All my engines have to be runners. I don't place any engine on a shelf to stare at. I don't try and keep the miles low for resale value.

If I get the opportunity down the road, I'd love to have a few of my engines corrected. Until then, I can observe the way it should be done.

Very impressive work.

@Engineer-Joe posted:

I don't own any brass engines. I would state that the work shown here, makes this engine a runner. That means the world to me. All my engines have to be runners. I don't place any engine on a shelf to stare at. I don't try and keep the miles low for resale value.

If I get the opportunity down the road, I'd love to have a few of my engines corrected. Until then, I can observe the way it should be done.

Joe, what about that Williams Challenger you have ?….she’s brass,….no??….

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Joe, what about that Williams Challenger you have ?….she’s brass,….no??….

Pat

Oops! I never considered her a brass engine. Funny, she sits here on a shelf too!

and a Weaver that needs attention, and...

I have a couple of 3rd rail engines too. I should have said I don't want any shelf queens. They should all be runners.

Brain fart.

Outstanding!!!

Pat, that looks like a factory finish in the last few pics.. Can you comment on the paint process doing the brass shell. I’ve read many how to’s as far as prepping brass with a media blast to give it some tooth for the paint to adhere to. Always prime first. Or just simply giving the shell a bath in some Dawn and just painting over the factory clear coat. I’ve done a few brass cars using the later method with Scalecoat 1. Any tips would be appreciated.

@Dave_C posted:

Pat, that looks like a factory finish in the last few pics.. Can you comment on the paint process doing the brass shell. I’ve read many how to’s as far as prepping brass with a media blast to give it some tooth for the paint to adhere to. Always prime first. Or just simply giving the shell a bath in some Dawn and just painting over the factory clear coat. I’ve done a few brass cars using the later method with Scalecoat 1. Any tips would be appreciated.

Dave, …no problem. The paint I use is probably not for everyone, however you can achieve results as close to what I get with rattle can finishes, or an airbrush.

I start by looking the workpiece over for any defects. Repair as necessary, then the next step is a thorough wash with soap and water ( dish soap) . Next step is a time goblin, a clock bandit, whatever you’d like to call it. I carefully scuff every square inch of the work piece with fine grit ( gray) scotchbrite …..then it’s time for another bath. Now my workpiece is clean and scuffed for a guaranteed mechanical bond. Before painting, the workpiece is wiped ( every square inch again) with 91% Isopropyl alcohol. My paint is a 3 part urethane finishing system, paint, hardener and reducer, cocktailed by me for model making. The products I use are mfd. by SEM automotive, and is part of their satin black trim refinishing system. It’s a dead on match as far as I’m concerned, with what the big 3 use overseas….( Scott, Lionel & MTH) …..the products I use are only sold in Qt. form, so unless you plan on shooting a lot of locomotives it may be way too much product for a single DIY project. I shoot the workpiece with a mini HVLP gun at normal working pressures in a controlled booth  to achieve the finish you see ( it’s kinda my job, I paint cars for a living) …HOWEVER, SEM does offer their product in rattle can form, and I’ll gladly post up a picture within this reply for those that want to give it a whirl,….One rattle can ought to shoot a couple locomotives, and the can has a long shelf life. Their rattle can products are also a genuine urethane product, which in my opinion is the only way to go, also and most importantly, these products are a true DTM product, DTM stands for Direct To Metal. So a properly prepared surface needs no priming!!..I’m not a fan of product on top of product, on top of product. It’s asking for an issue …….also, too many products and details are not as crisp and begin to be obscured. Let’s be clear on one thing that is a huge no-no in my world. A sand blasted, or glass beaded surface is NOT properly prepped for painting. Longevity will come back to haunt you on a sand blasted surface. You can blast an area, but I recommend repeating the above mentioned steps for maximum longevity. Sure, there will be those that say they got away with it, but they’re playing with fire ……I have turned a couple fine molders onto the SEM product line, and they are achieving incredible results, as long as the moderators are cool, we can use this portion of this thread as some learning tools, and some “how to’s,….as long as they’re cool, so am I ……so Lou, if you’re seeing this, please post up your rattle canned ATSF pieces ( they’re gorgeous)  and also share your process, which I believe mirrors mine,  but your still on rattle cans,,…we can add more details as warranted, or if Alan Arnold thinks we need to move this part, that’s fine too,….I’ve got no problem doing tutorials ….

Pat

Wish I had the cojones to spray urethanes.  They make spectacular aircraft finishes, but require a suit with external air piped in from way far away.

I do bead blast, then Scale Coat, baked at 180 degrees for two hours.  Pretty darn tough finish.

For airplanes I am ok with spraying cellulose based products and limited MEK- solvent systems, but do not do it anywhere near full time.

Cannot argue with the results here, though.  Very nice!

I love it.  Really, I do!   However, I also think of that poor scale wheeled 2 rail locomotive that had to give its life for pizza cutters! 

In all seriousness it is a great looking locomotive!

@bob2 posted:

Wish I had the cojones to spray urethanes.  They make spectacular aircraft finishes, but require a suit with external air piped in from way far away.

I do bead blast, then Scale Coat, baked at 180 degrees for two hours.  Pretty darn tough finish.

For airplanes I am ok with spraying cellulose based products and limited MEK- solvent systems, but do not do it anywhere near full time.

Cannot argue with the results here, though.  Very nice!

Bob, I wouldn’t argue with your results for the world, ….what works for you is obvious for all to see ….your paint work is stunning,…..I have limited experience with scale coat paints, and don’t know the makeup of the product line,…..I do know urethanes require either a chemical adhesion, ( promoters or sealers) or as in the case of the DTM products, a mechanical adhesion…..nice thing about this product line, right over the bare brass it goes, ….hide is on the first coat, subsequent coats are just a policing action….

Pat

@GG1 4877 posted:

I love it.  Really, I do!   However, I also think of that poor scale wheeled 2 rail locomotive that had to give its life for pizza cutters! 

In all seriousness it is a great looking locomotive!

And many more will lay down at the alter of middle rail!..😈😈😈

Pat

@Strummer posted:

I think what he meant was it was "disappointing" (to him) that the original chassis couldn't be 3 railed (?)

I have zero experience with US Hobbies stuff, but from the look of the chassis in your 4th photo, that big ol' open frame motor looks pretty robust and capable of "dog snotting". 🙂

In any case, another great conversion. 👍

Mark in Oregon 🎄

The motor isn't the issue. Its the narrow drive train [ i.e. wheels and axle lengths, positioning of the steam chest, steam pipes and the valve gear, etc.] that are the culprits. What Harmon Yards did was the smart, economical, and quick way of solving the many issues of converting a 2 rail steamer into a 3 rail steamer.

Now thats a fantastic conversion. I wonder if the same can be done for a brass Gem models PRR F3 steamer!

@prrhorseshoecurve posted:

1. The motor isn't the issue. Its the narrow drive train [ i.e. wheels and axle lengths, positioning of the steam chest, steam pipes and the valve gear, etc.] that are the culprits. 2.  What Harmon Yards did was the smart, economical, and quick way of solving the many issues of converting a 2 rail steamer into a 3 rail steamer.

3. Now thats a fantastic conversion. I wonder if the same can be done for a brass Gem models PRR F3 steamer!

1. I see. 🙂

2. Absolutely. 👍

3. Well, if anyone can do that, it would be Pat. 😁👍

Mark in Oregon 🎄

@prrhorseshoecurve posted:

The motor isn't the issue. Its the narrow drive train [ i.e. wheels and axle lengths, positioning of the steam chest, steam pipes and the valve gear, etc.] that are the culprits. What Harmon Yards did was the smart, economical, and quick way of solving the many issues of converting a 2 rail steamer into a 3 rail steamer.

Now thats a fantastic conversion. I wonder if the same can be done for a brass Gem models PRR F3 steamer!

Thank you!…let’s see a picture of this PRR locomotive,….I have no clue what one even looks like,….but if measurements can be made, so can the model…😉…post it on this thread ….

Pat

@prrhorseshoecurve posted:

The motor isn't the issue. Its the narrow drive train [ i.e. wheels and axle lengths, positioning of the steam chest, steam pipes and the valve gear, etc.] that are the culprits. What Harmon Yards did was the smart, economical, and quick way of solving the many issues of converting a 2 rail steamer into a 3 rail steamer.

Now thats a fantastic conversion. I wonder if the same can be done for a brass Gem models PRR F3 steamer!

That's why I've turned to RC for my 2 rail scale locomotives. Such as this mikado.