G Gauge Help Needed

Well, G gauge is usually DC and that Lionel transformer is probably AC.  Sooooooo, that might be the problem.

Rick

Ron, most G Gauge runs on DC Power, I am not sure but I think the CW80 might output AC Power.

Chris Sheldon

You guys are both correct. 

This must be DC because I took a DC transformer and hooked it up with much better results!

Thank you Rick and Chris for the quick replies, I appreciate it. 

What do you guys use to clean your brass track?

I used to use a big pink pencil eraser on my brass track.  That got to be too much work so I sold all brass track and bought stainless steel Gargraves track.  It looks much better, scale wise, than that huge looking G gauge track. Now, I never clean my track.

Rick

I run Sunset Valley Stainless code 250 Stainless as well with Splitjaw Clamps.                 No cleaning ever, but I live in Nevada near Las Vegas, pretty dry here, hot too!

Chris

If you are just getting into G gauge, don't spend too much on transformers and digital equipment.  Look into battery power, especially if you are running your trains outdoors.  Battery power has reached a level that several trains can operate on the same track, controlling one another by communicating between them.  Lithium-Ion batteries will give you a few hours run time before needing to be recharged.  

One manufacturer that I have purchased all of my R/C modules from is G Scale Graphicshttp://www.gscalegraphics.net

It may be a good idea to browse his site and ask questions.  Del will get back to you with answers quickly.  If you need assistance I can help.  Here is one of my videos that I have uploaded to Youtube, showing a battery powered diesel.  

https://youtu.be/48YmHXziHVo

I've used fine sandpaper to clean oxidation off old HO brass track. It should be fine enough to not leave visible scratches. Used indoors, I find that brass rail needs to be shined up every few years.

A friend had an outdoor G-gauge layout using brass rail. It was so difficult to keep clean for good electrical conductivity that he gave up on the outdoor layout project.  {in a wet-weather region of western Oregon}

As one of the Large Scale, Analog/Track Power/Brass Rail fans, I don't agree with the statement that it's too hard to keep the track clean and connectivity good.

Right now, I run a temporary track, LGB & Aristo Brass, just slapped together,screws, clamps or dielectric grease, just the slip connectors. All the temporary track is old & well used. If I need to clean the track, loco slows etc, I use either a Green 3M scratch pad or a piece of fine drywall screen wrapped around a sponge. One turn around the track and done.  Usually just running the train keeps the tracks clean enough for my locomotives... I don't run plastic wheels, which do foul the track.

Power supplies? Look for an 18 - 20 volt surplus computer DC power supply(inexpensive), a rheostat to control the voltage and off you go.

If you must go to the Dark Side, check out RCS   http://www.rcs-rc.com/   Tony has some very good state of the art equipment available if you must go R/C-Battery.

djacobsen posted:

 

Power supplies? Look for an 18 - 20 volt surplus computer DC power supply(inexpensive), a rheostat to control the voltage and off you go.

 

I don't agree with using cheap switching power supplies as Phoenix Sound, USA Trains, Bachmann, MTH, Accucraft, LGB and others advise against using them...Pure DC power supplied by Bridgewerks is the best.

Phoenix & USA Trains will not warranty any repairs when using a switching power supply.

I use the Bridgewerks MAG25TDR on my large scale railroad.

Dan Padova posted:

ILook into battery power, especially if you are running your trains outdoors.  Battery power has reached a level that several trains can operate on the same track, controlling one another by communicating between them.  Lithium-Ion batteries will give you a few hours run time before needing to be recharged.  

One manufacturer that I have purchased all of my R/C modules from is G Scale Graphicshttp://www.gscalegraphics.net

It may be a good idea to browse his site and ask questions.  Del will get back to you with answers quickly.  If you need assistance I can help.  Here is one of my videos that I have uploaded to Youtube, showing a battery powered diesel.  

https://youtu.be/48YmHXziHVo

DITTO.

I converted my Bachmann 4-6-0 Annie to BPRC, using a Deltang Rx, on/off switch and charging jack from RCS Australia, and 12v, 2000Mah NiMh battery from All-Battery, a Tx from RCS Australia, and a MyLocoSounds board from Del at G Scale Graphics.

No power to the brass track and the engine runs and sounds fine.  You'll get over 2 hours from a 2000Mah battery whether it's NiMh or LiPo.  If you can follow directions and solder you should have no problems.  I removed all the electronics from the engine except for the motor and speaker, and left the chuff mechanism installed so I could use the MyLocoSounds board.  You'll have to buy a charger, but All-Battery offers combo deals.  I went with a 12v NiMh (got it off the All-Battery page on Ebay for cheaper than it costs straight from their store), I tried a 9.6v but the top speed wasn't good enough for me.

Right now all I have is a tankcar, flatcar, and caboose.  I also have a 5' and an 8' circle of brass track plus 12 pieces of 1' straights.

For what you spend on a good DC power supply you can get most if not all of these battery components.  Tony Walsham (RCS Australia) even has specific packages for the Bachmann engines:

http://www.rcs-rc.com/

He can't ship batteries, but All-Battery is here in CA:

http://www.all-battery.com/index.aspx

And here's Del Tapparo's G Scale Graphics site if you go that route:

http://www.gscalegraphics.net/

Battery power is not necessarily cheaper.. you need to weigh the track cost vs. the control system.

In most calculations, straight DC track power is cheapest.

If you want remote control, it's more complex you need to weigh the number of locos, and the level of functional control you want.

There's some very cheap ways to go in battery r/c, but if you want a lot of control or the best sound, then track power with DCC trumps everything, especially over 4 locos. MTH makes a proprietary control system, but the latest stuff runs on DCC too.

Bottom line, need to go over your wants and eventual size of your fleet before ANYONE can tell you which is cheapest.

Greg

If your gonna run a small G layout inside I would suggest a good DC transformer for track power. If you want to lay track outside and get up and running quick without a lot of headaches I would suggest lipo battery power.

You can buy lipo batteries at hobby King for $10.00 each and one 3 cell battery will run for hours and recharge with a good charger in 20 minutes.

We've used these same batteries to jump a car off before so they have plenty of punch.

Ron, there are so many "good" answers, why not tell us a bit more about your plans, for now and in the future.

I've worked with many people, and the "vision" of where you want to go can really help taking the right path to get there.

Are you indoor, outdoor, big layout, small, long trains, short trains, old time steam, modern diesels?

Greg

Thank you for all the helpful information, I appreciate it!

For now I am just running a small layout in the living room to see if the locomotive worked. 

In the next couple of weeks I want to run it outside on some concrete I have underneath my deck.  I need to pick up some more track in order to do that. 

For now I will stay with D.C. Transformer and brass track as that is what I already have, but will look into the battery solutions that are out there.

I also have a layout with N, HO, S and O gauge on it that I enjoy working on with the grandkids.  Just a 4x8 with lots of track!

Thanks again, Ron.  

When I was running track power I soldered jumpers across each and every rail joint.  I've had a garden railway since 1992, and during that time I learned a few things about having a garden railway.  And soldered jumpers is the only sure fire method of eliminating dead spots.  The down side to soldered jumpers is when you want to make changes to the track.  It adds an additional step to the process. The conductive grease just gives you a bit more time before the joint gets contaminated.  And it will.   Rail clamps are great but they are still only a mechanical connection.  

On cleaning track, LGB's hand held cleaner is the best way to go as it doesn't scratch the brass but polishes it instead.  I learned that through experience also.  Tried the maroon Scotchbrite pads, and while they worked, they still put minute scratches in the rails.  After crawling around on my hands an knees cleaning track, I finally mounted an LGB track cleaning block on my drywall sanding pole.

So about six years ago, I made the switch to battery power and have never looked back and haven't cleaned my track since with the exception of clearing leaves and twigs.   

Ron, lots of advice to consider but I will offer only one little bit, don't forget to have fun. That's what a hobby such as this is all about.  Involve the grandkids all you can, I have no grandkids yet but look forward to the day I can re-live some really great days as a six year old running my little 5x9 empire with the next generation.

You have seen many resources mentioned, this forum is great and Greg's website is also one of the best I have ever seen.

Sincerely,

Chris Sheldon 

If it going to be a temporary type layout to try G Gauge outdoors,

Clean the track joints well before assembling track and you'll be fine.

Green scotch brite pad works fine for cleaning track, 2 set of feeder

wires will assure good operation 12 gauge Malibu wire for outdoor

lighting works great and is cheap at Lowes/Home Depot.

Soldered joints on brass are the least expensive way to go, and work well if you know how to solder and have the right "iron". If not, good quality clamps (SplitJaw) are very good. If you put "conductive" grease in the joiners it can work well for a while, but eventually will get oxidation.

There are ways to make it work, there are ways to make it fail.

Greg

I have a gauge layout in my backyard for ten years I run dc through the track cleaned track with a drywall sander everything runs fine.

Back to the original question: My track cleaner page with lots of pix:

http://www.elmassian.com/index...d=228&Itemid=262

Greg

Thank you for all the information, it has been very helpful! 

Thanks, Ron.

I have had a layout in my garden for going on 16 years now.  Was track powered for about 12 of those years(with a little live steam mixed in). But I got tired of rail joints that would stop conducting and didnt want to go the whole rail clamp, or lots of soldering ect.  I went over to the "deal rail" society with onboard battery and never looked back. I have a love for older G scale engines like the Kalamazoo 4-4-0 and a few from the old Lionel Large Scale line up.  Most of those had poor power pickups and ran marginal on even clean track due to power pickup issues.  However with onboard battery, they run as smooth as my LGB engines.  I have kept it cheap, atleast for me, by not using RC, just a simple on/off toggle switch somewhat hidden on the engine and a 7.2vt, 5000mah Nimh battery from the RC car hobby shop.  I get 4-6 hour run times depending on train length, which are short as my railway is small.  Recharge time is 45 min or so.  Gone are any issues with reverse loops or worring about the track being clean when I want to run a train and lack time to clean track ect.  Just a quick walk around the line to clear off any sticks or other large debris.  Enjoy the track power for now, but I would work on a long term plan to either deal with the track as it ages outdoors and become more of a hassle to keep clean.  Of coarse indoors this isnt a problem.  My indoor loop still has track power for initial engine testing and when I fix trains for others.   Hope you enjoy G as much as the smaller scales, I know I sure have!     Mike