Great Northern railway

Should be the last of the testing before tomorrow's GNRW operating session.

Video: 

Interesting: the turbine is pulling about 50 vintage cars that I've had for decades with metal trucks and no problems with those shorting as I've had with the recently acquired vintage cars!

UP turbine at Hillyard:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be     

UP turbine at Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be    

UP turbine at Skykomish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

....

3rd escape track needed some cleaning.

Was having trouble with this spot, last season.  Finally figured out the occasional derailment was due to one rail lower than the other across the wood in the staging yard.

Scaletrains 'museum quality' turbine #4. Very detailed and has an ear piercing turbine, just like the full size.

Classification lights clear/red/green.

cab lights.

Step lights

walkway lights

She just clears the escape track.

Tender has to be disconnected for turntable.

Ready for the next run.

Tonight's GNRW operating session pictures.

Pleased on how the trains ran: only 2 cars that derailed and were removed from the layout.

A railroader brought his PRR decapod(upper train in picture/video).

Video:

Got two trains running parallel to each other.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be    

GN Z-6 4-6-6-4 has uncoupled from train, used the escape track and, now, heading to the roundhouse.

Decoder install in SF 2-10-4 by united.

Decoder: 1517 WOW 101 steam with sound and keep alive.

First decoder install of the season.

In order to control head light, cab, classification lights. running board lights and fire box glow, an 8 pin connector was made using 30 gauge wire.

Contrary to popular belief, one can use an open frame motor in DCC; as long as the decoder can handle the amps, plus the motor is insulated from the frame.

The motor mounting hole was enlarged so a piece of white tubing and some kadee insulation washers could be put on the original mounting screw to insulate the motor from the engine frame.

Also, there's an original piece of black rubber that lays between the motor and motor mount.

Open frame motor mounted and tested.  Runs very smoothly under DCC, and quiet. 

I'm 'partial' to the old PFM sound system speaker as they have fantastic base sounds.  They do, however, require two capacitors and a choke to operate, correctly.

Part 2 of the testing: with lights.

Unfortunately, the lights are not coming on except the fire box glow.  Pressing button F0 for lights is not working: the generator sound initiates but not the lights.

I tested the lights in the engine and they work so I know I've got something wrong going to the decoder.  No smoke so that's good.  The tender light does not come on, either, when put into reverse.

Motor and sound work OK.

Not having put in a decoder for several months, doesn't help!

As I soldered the wires, all colors are correct plus I checked each one for a good solder joint as I soldered each one.

I put in a separate 4 prong connector for the engine lights for ease of maintenance.  Again, colors correct plus able to successfully test the lights without the decoder.

Last year, I made schematics to I would know how to connect all wires: so much for that theory!

SF 2-10-4 decoder install (cont)

One of my comrades gave me the solution for the lights: I had the polarity reversed on the lights.  I've added that the 'resistor' side (red) goes to the blue wire.

The top of the open frame motor taped to insure no contact (ie short) with the inside of the boiler.

TA DA: all light functions work.  F0-3 controls head light, classification lights and running board lights.

A much smaller connector pin could be used if one didn't want to control the lights.

Tender light on in reverse.

PRR T-1 4-4-4-4 by Alco; decoder (1517 WOW101 steam, sound/keep alive) install.

I'm installing a decoder in at least one of each railroad that I have.

This engine was already painted and 'they' did a good job on it. 

Cut out a rectangular hole for the decoder harness.

Fits right under the tender deck.

There were 3 brass lights on the tender.

Drilled out holes for the LED's.

Taped up the entire back so oil, shavings and any 'bad judgements' wouldn't damage the paint.

Before:

After:

This model was made in 1977 and I'm guessing that someone installed a can motor as it looks like an 'aftermarket'.

Nice: there were already 'sound' holes in the tender floor.

Old incandescent lights removed.

Was going to drill out the classification lights but, after looking at it from the outside and inside, I decided too risky as may damage the paint and classification housing. 

Slow work installing the LED's as each one needs to be placed 'perfectly' in place and glued without disturbing them. 

Harness made while glue on LED's dry.

Slow going on getting the running board lights installed.

Sam you really do wonderful work! Right now in my life I would have to send that out to have someone do that for me! I would be to scared of damaging the engine! Nice work!

Thanks, Mike.

========

PRR T-1 4-4-4-4 decoder install (cont)

Final assembly.

Test videos:

At Tye:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be        

At Tumwater canyon trestle:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

At Wilmar:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

West of St. Paul:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

---

Testing sound and lights.

Used 1/16" diameter heat shrink tubing to protect all the light wires from getting damaged from installing the weights, etc.   Electrical tape used to secure heat shrink tubing to boiler.

Final check.

Engine was shorting.  One tire on the tender truck came loose: some thin CA fixed it.

Engine has two weights but not 'super' weighted like my engines that I did in the 80's.

This, essentially, a 4-8-4 can handle 30-35 cars up the 0.5% grade.

A good running engine; went from Seattle to the interchange with no problems.

PRR layout.

Last night, I visited a fellow NMRA Div 7's layout.

This is the first time I've seen his layout and he only lives a few minutes from me.

Ed's built a really nice layout; his attention to detail on the buildings is excellent.

Don't see catenary very often!

'U' shaped layout.

Make your own!

The last engine purchased only had the top half of the box (first for me).

I decided to make the bottom half.

Initially, I was going to use cardboard but thought the foam board would be better.

After measuring the inside of the top of the box, I subtracted an 1/8" to allow for minor errors; also, top of box will never fit over too large of a bottom box.

Perimeter cut out. 

Only need to cut, barely, into the top of one side of the outer surface of the foam core.  Kind of like cutting sheet rock, score and break, only the bottom of the foam core remains intact. 

Some box tape to hold the sides.  Some 'foam safe' CA would also work.

Since the foam core is 1/8" thick, the ends were made an 1/8" wide on each side.

A paper cutter was used to trim the foam inserts since the 1/8" thick foam core is thicker than a normal cardboard box.

Good fit.

B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 by Westside decoder install.  

This model was purchased already painted and heavily weathered.

A #57 drill bit was used to drill out the tender's headlight and marker lights along with holes in the tender for the wires.

A huge can motor in this engine.

Marker lights drilled out on the engine.

A hole close to the handrail was drilled for the wires.

LED's installed with crystal Klear.

Ditto on the tender.

Also drilled holes for the running lights, engine headlight and cab light.

B&O EM-1 decoder install (cont)

This install has not gone well.

I was testing some speakers so I was going to use some alligator clips but, while powering up the decoder, the speaker wires must have touched each other or the tender frame and hosed up the decoder.  Put a new one in and all's 'good'.

Will be sending the bad one back for repair.

Initially, I thought I, also, burned out the three LED's in the tender but the 'light' function wasn't on.  

Initially, I used F2 (the violet wire) to turn on/off the red tender lights but that button only allowed the LED's to light when the button was held down.

I switched to the F3 (brown wire) and that worked to control those red lights.

The tender headlight  connected to the yellow wire, default for 'on' when engine is in reverse.

After all the wires were 'shoved' into the tender....

some foam was used to protect the wires.

More troubles in 'river city'.

To protect the thin LED wires to the classification lights, I ran some 1/16" diameter heat shrink tubing along the inside of the boiler.  Some long, easy to see inside the boiler, yellow wire was soldered to the ends of the LED wires and routed through the tubing: not an easy task since the front smoke box doesn't come off!

The LED's worked great until I tested for contact against the boiler and blew both of them.  I think I pulled the thin insulation off the  LED leads when pulling them  through the small hole in the boiler which made contact with the brass boiler.

I need to use the volt meter to test for shorts instead of trying to quickly touch the boiler to the LED leads: not fast enough (idiot)!

Start over: new LED's glued into the classification lights; let that dry for awhile.

The yellow wire was soldered back onto the old LED leads so, at least, it will be easy to re-route the wires.  

B&O EM-1 decoder install (cont)

Removed the 'blown' LED's in the classification lights and installed new ones, being careful not to have any shorts to the boiler shell.  Used a voltmeter to check everything.  I put some crystal klear in the holes to protect the wires.

Finally, everything's working!

With the headlight mounted on the front driver engine, another set of wires was routed there.

A two prong connector made for easy PM.

The wires were routed through some 1/16" diameter heat shrink and then routed through the two frames of the driver engines.

Next; assembly and road test.

B&O EM-1 re-assembled.

Had to grind down the threaded portion of the tender draw bar pin as it stuck up inside the tender and interfered with the wires going into the tender.

Normally, there is room between the trailing truck support beam and the cab floor for routing wires but not in this engine so I had to route the wires outside to reach the cab.  

Next, road test.

New delivery:  

I actually ordered some diesels: the first ever on the GNRW.

Reasons for order: 

1) First E's made by EMD: ie, an iconic engine.

2) very cool rakish nose.

3) beautify paint scheme: warbonnet

4) they were being sold at a very good price: actually, this was the number one reason!

I got both units powered so they can pull lots of cars.

They weigh in at:

A unit: 20.75 oz

B unit: 21.0 oz. ( I would have guessed the A was going to weigh more).

For comparison of weight:

B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4: engine: 25.7 oz, Tender: 8.6 oz

GN R-2 2-8-8-2: engine: 30.8 oz, tender: 8.05

GN C-1 0-8-0 switcher: engine: 16.1 oz, tender: 5.8

Both have decoders with sound.

Very secure 4-sided plastic with an additional sleeve over it. 

Headlight, number boards and classification lights functional.

The red light on the B unit lights in reverse.

Lots of detail.  Know nothing about diesels so I guess it's all correct!

B unit.

NMRA MCR Div 3 Dayton's train show.

The county's new location with new buildings.

Not used to seeing 'new' on county fairgrounds!

The show used two large fabric covered metal frame buildings and one 'regular' building.

Lots of layouts.

With a larger parking lot, it seemed to have a larger attendance, this year.

Hey, what's this thing on the top do?

I remember MR doing an article on him back in the 70's or 80's.

Located in Dover, Ohio.

Can't beat two GN engines passing each other

Some new 'ready to install' boats.

The vendor has added a few 'western' pictures.

Back in the 70's, I remember buying this building for about $1.98 (versus $38.75) from AHC.

I called them and bought every one that they had for sale: my roundhouse and 'flats' are made from them.

Some of Nancy's excellent work (and her comrades). 

CAD stuff.

Obviously, I said something funny, but I don't remember!

Rides for kids, big and small.

You have to watch where you park.  Had to call a tow truck to pull me out.

Fortunately, no damage.

I'm guessing someone did some work and forgot to put the cover back on as it was laying next to the hole.

SF E-1's:

Replaced the coupler and put the provided solid 'cow catcher' on the engine.

It just snaps in place.

Stuff.

Made a list of all 'decoded' engines by: railroad, class, whyte listing, importer, type decoder and engine number.

A list of functions are also posted for the scaletrains and BLI.

Except for the few that I have bought that have decoders already installed: ie scale trains UP turbine and 3 BLI engines all engines are TCS decoders.

Since the bulk of engines have TCS decoders, The basic functions are listed at the bottom of each controller.  F1 for front marker lights, F3 for tender marker lights.

Road tests after decoders installed.

Videos:

SF E-1's by BLI; both powered with sound.

Can handle 45-50 cars on a 0.5% grade.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be  

B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 by Westside.

Can handle about 30 cars on a 0.5% grade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

==== 

The EM-1 had two more shorts to diagnose. 

Tender wheel needed a kadee washer to keep the insulated side from touching the truck frame.

The engine's trailing truck was out of gauge and shorting. A NWSL wheel puller fixed that.

The company photographer went out for pictures.

This snow scene reminds me of Christmas and a 'Christmas' memory:

Best Christmas ever had or will ever have.

I was seven.  Growing up in Cleveland, Ohio, we had Higbees, May co and Halley’s down town department stores.  After Thanksgiving, each would have an entire floor full of toys.  Of course the best was the train area where there were Lionel and American Flyer layouts set up.  I’d stay there for hours watching them run and, of course, there were free catalogs.

Mom asked me what I wanted for Christmas.  I pointed to the Lionel SF diesel  A-A and 4 beautiful aluminum passenger cars and said ‘that’.  At 90 bucks, mom said we can’t afford that.  Dad worked at Midland Ross steel and, if he made that in a week, he was lucky!

$90 in 1953 is over $800 in 2018: imagine spending that much on a seven year old, today, for one present!

I remember getting up that Christmas morning and seeing the large rectangular box all wrapped and knew exactly what it was. 

As in ‘Christmas story’, that was the best Christmas I ever had, or ever will.

And it still runs great!

The 'interchange/staging': just the basics.

The last three engines decoded and road tested.

SF 4-8-4, PRR T-1 4-4-4-4 and SF E-1 A-B set.

A fellow modeler found these at harbor freight.

All metric: from 0.5mm to 3.0mm.  

Haven't tested them, yet, but only 4 bucks.

GN C-1 0-8-0 Tenshodo decoder install.

No sound installed in the switchers; just using TCS 1485 KAM5 with keep alive.

Kept the original open frame motor but had to insulate it from the engine frame.

Some electrical tape on the motor, a piece of red heat shrink tubing on the screw and a kadee washer next to the nut.

The slot on the brass mounting plate also had to be enlarged.

Not enough room in the engine so the decoder went into the tender.

No lights installed so only needed to make a 3 prong connector: red for ground, orange/gray for motor.  

Without lights, pretty fast install.  Only needed to solder the black wire to the tender shell.

Had to change the original #815 to #810 since the switcher at St Paul already owned that number.  Some solvaset on a q-tip and some aggressive rubbing removed the #5 without damaging the paint.  The #0 came from an old used set of champs GN decals.

While I was doing that, also added the C-1 nomenclature below the engine number.

Sometimes you get lucky:

I lucked out in that the top of the open frame motor touched the boiler, threw the CB but didn't 'smoke' the decoder.  Some extra electrical tape on all sides of the open frame motor fixed that. 

This engine is assigned to the ore dock.

New delivery.

PRR S-1 6-4-4-6 duplex.

Had to get this iconic engine.  PRR only made one of these.

It was designed by Raymond Loewy.

140' 2.5" long and built to go 100 MPH.

84" drivers, timkin roller bearings and 300 lbs boiler pressure.

Reported 7,200 HP.

Duplex meaning it had two pairs of cylinders for a rigid base, essentially, 6-8-6 since the full size did not articulate. 

Cost about $700,000 in 1937 or $12,000,000 in 2018 dollars; and we thought  spending 1-2 million to re-build a steam engine was a lot of money!

Displayed at the New York's world fair, 1939.

In 1940, between Chicago and Crestline, Ohio, she reportedly reached 101 MPH.

This is a Gem model made by Olympia in 1965 and priced at $225 or about $1,800 in 2018: A lot of money then, and a lot of money, now.

This model is factory painted and there were only 72 painted models.

Gem gave it the slight 'green' look that PRR engines had.

This engine is 53 years old and it appears to have always been in the box.

The full size had a rigid frame; this model has an articulated frame, probably so one could run it on, back then, sharper layout curves.  With minimum 48" radii, the articulation will probably not be noticed, if any occurs.

I tested it on the track and only the back drivers were moving: after 'only' 53 years, the rubber coupling to the front drivers is shot.  Will have to take apart and PM, lube, etc.

Cool, I can say I've got the entire roster of this class of engine on the PRR!

 ====

 The box has a 'felt' surface.

Appears to not to even been test run.

Even has cab detail.  Something not seen on HO models in 1965.

A factory painted model was also rare in 1965.

Nice tender detail.

The classification lights are even 'drilled' out.

The stripes are actually raised brass.  Those Japanese craftsmen were true masters at their job.

The tender trucks are articulated (moves up and down) with real springs.

Many PRR tenders had red oxide tender decks.  Not sure if this 'only one engine' made had it and it would probably be hard to prove, one way or other.

A comparison to a Key Big Boy for comparison.

Also, easy to see the 'green'.

PRR S-1 (PM).

No rotted tubing, as I first suspected on the universal as it's all made out of brass.

The linkage was just not engaged.

A large pitman motor.  Some oil on the front/rear via the cotton material surrounding the armature shaft.

The linkage to the front drivers was not engaged.

Some oil in the gear boxes, axles and side rods.

The front drivers are screwed to a piece of bright thin metal that rotates.

Instead of lead for weight, they used a solid piece of brass.

Thinking about it, the foam box was probably one of the first used as most engines came in cardboard tubes instead of foam back in the early 60's.

No need to drill out to get to the classification lights as they left a hole in the boiler (center, right in picture).

They even made a builders plate for it.

PRR S-1.

The leading/trailing trucks are also sprung: Something not often done.

In case I croak!

PRR S-1 decoder install.

I did not know that...

or I forgot!

It's a lot easier insuring the open frame motor is not a ground by, simply, unsoldering the one metal tab that is soldered to the motor frame.

Had to install two LED's on each housing as one LED would not light up the front classification lights as well as the side number board.

PRR S-1 decoder install (cont)

Being, this engine was made way before sound was ever invented, I had to drill some holes into the tender base.

The PFM speakers have about a 1/4"X1" outlet so the hole pattern was made that size.  An additional hole was made to route the 8 wires to the engine. The holes were painted from the inside to make it appear the holes are 'original'.

I watched a video for decoder installs and they said not to put holes into a brass engine as it would devalue the engine.  One: this engine is mine (and will be sold when I'm dead) and two: how can one install a decoder without holes into an older model.  

I consider this engine an important 'heritage' to early brass so I'm thoughtful in any alterations. 

The truck makes routing the decoder wires difficult but I put heat shrink tubing (in very short sections) over two sets of wires instead of the usual one for more flexibility.  

Normally, a lot of tenders have an open space below the deck for decode wires but this tender has none except added detail in that location and I didn't want to 'butcher it'.

Having to route the wires through the tender floor forced me to make the 8 pin connector AFTER routing the wires through the floor. 

Masked off the back of the tender to drill out the three holes for lights.

Holes painted and LED's installed.

The slow process of waiting for the glue to dry.

Four running board LED's installed.

They made a very nice headlight lens out of a plastic tube.  It was fun getting some glue on the end of the tube inside the engine and then positioning the LED at that location.  Seems to be working well, though. 

The cab light and fire box glow are the last LED's that need to be installed.

PRR S-1 decoder install (cont)

Wiring done.

Had to use resistance soldering on a loose ash pan.

Cut LED black wires shorter than other red wires as routing wires through 1/16" thick heat shrink tubing and not enough room to also insulate the black from the red inside the 1/16" tubing.

10 LED's completed in boiler.

Four way connector for PM. Protective 1/16" heat shrink tubing taped to top of boiler. 

Weight re-installed.

Motor, fire box glow LED and connector to boiler complete.

Four way connector needed for PM tender shell from tender bottom.

Three LED's in the tender.

NMRA MCR div 7 monthly after meeting layout visits.

Div 10 visitors with N gauge T-Trak.

Dan Mack.

Bob Shaw.

PRR S-1 final assembly, test.

WHAT WENT 'RIGHT':

All 14 LED lights worked after turning them on with the function keys.

The only thing I did wrong on the decoder was forgot to attached the needed two capacitors and a choke for the PFM speaker.  

WHAT DIDN'T:

I see why this engine has never been run.

When I first tested it on the track, the front driver's were disconnected and, after I fixed that, I decided to install the decoder without finishing the initial test run.  Attaching the two sets of drivers to the boiler is time consuming and it took me, probably, an hour to figure how to re-attach everything in the right order and getting all screws inserted and universals connected. Not counting the derails and shorts!  Due to space restrictions, re-assembly is not the same order as dis-assembly.  It's easy to have a screw fall out of a tight space, it's another problem, getting that screw back into that tight space!

Good thing we do this for FUN!

The front driver set had the back two drivers not resting on the rails.

Backing up, the front drivers were derailing.

The two screws have 'shoulders' on them that connect the front engine to the back engine thus, creating a lot of vertical slop.

I had to add some RC tubing to the back linkage screw to keep the short connecting bar down while putting another RC tubing below the driver retaining plate to keep the back set of drivers on the rails.

The tender with those 16 wheels, were shorting on 8' radii.  I had to not only add some kadee insulating washers to the insulated side but also some RC tubing to the center two axles.  The truck frames hide the tubing when on the track. 

I really didn't see where the wheels were shorting but it occurred when I would force the tender away from the insulated side and causing them to touch the truck frame and short.  Fully articulated truck frames have a lot of  movement in them. 

They're also sensitive to any 'out of aligned' track gauge.  One spot where just about all my cars and engines travel, the tender truck was derailing.   Putting a track gauge along there, it was, indeed, to wide for the gauge.  Fortunately, with hand laid rail, it's easy to pull up spikes and re-gauge the track.  

Having to put that much insulation on one side of the truck also reduces side movement so those 4 sets of axles are going to be more sensitive to bad track.

From the picture, one can see that the center part of the truck frame is out much farther than the rest of the truck frame which, probably, allows the insulated wheel to touch the outer truck frame.  The axles on the center two wheel sets probably should be a little longer.  These trucks have no screws so dis-assembly is not an option. 

Well, I think I've gotten all the bugs out just testing in the yard.  Still need to do a 'road' test.

This models like the full size ones: seems like the unusual 'wheel arrangements' didn't equate to what the 'slide rule' said they would!   I'm guessing this engine probably needs minimum 30" radii (if not 32"-36")and #8 turnouts.

And I still need to figure out how to get a coupler into that scale size coupler pocket!

Testing before this Saturday's op session.

Most of the pictures are always close ups.  Thought I'd take some panorama's while testing the track.  

As usual, had a few 'bugs' to fix.

Glacier park

Shows the 3 levels of the mainline from Seattle to St. Paul.

Wilmar.

Don't think I've taken any pictures of this town. 

Wilmar

Wilmar.

Glacier.

Entering Chumstick and Tumwater canyons where the two trestles are located.

The steep grade is the logging railroad.

Logging railroad.

St. Paul.

Three tracks on the left are incoming tracks with route to the roundhouse.

Ore dock.

Seattle.

Three track staging/interface.

The 'bare' essentials of the three levels going through the laundry room.

The Kenmore washer and dryer, I believe, were purchased around 1975: nice to have non-electronic devices that will last forever!  I don't need a phone to tell me my 'wash' is done or needs drying! 

Do I want to spend money on new devices or trains: a 'no brainer'!

OK, I'll get off my 'soap box'.

Skykomish.

Entering Seattle's freight yard.

Passenger yard in on the 'back side'.

Each yard has three incoming tracks with escape tracks at the end.

Here, the engine uncouples from the cars and moves to the escape track.

Leaving the escape tracks to head to the turntable.

St. Paul's roundhouse.

New delivery.

Three throttle holders: two for the electrics and one in the Glacier park area.

Three TCS 1485 KAM4 with 'keep alive' decoders for the electrics.

More decoder wire: wish they included Pink: need that for the running board lites(function 4).  Surprised, amazon had pink 30 AWG. 

Road testing an engine with a new decoder plus checking the mainline.

Thought I'd take some different angled shots.  I figure if I took enough pictures, maybe some would be OK: even a blind squirrel will find a nut, once in awhile; plus they reveal errors!   

PRR S-1 6-4-4-6 road test.

Used a kadee #4 coupler for the scale size hole in the tender.

Unfortunately, they no longer make #4's; they were good for the front of steam engines.

Glad I didn't run a long train.  Won't be pulling any 45 cars.  

The tender is shorting going through most turnouts where the inside of the wheel is touching the opposite, open switch point.

A railroader friend suggested nail polish: thick and tough.  

Engine shorted at this spot.  A few spikes fixed it.

Needed the 'top creeper' to get to the bad track, though.

Ice storm this morning.  I can, normally, walk under those limbs that are touching the ground.  Most leaves are off this time of year but these pin oaks will take another 1-2 weeks to loose them.

Road test B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4.

Taking on water.

Why I need to road test each engine.

The front engine drivers were derailing at one spot.  Once in a great while, I've had some cars come off so  I investigated the area.

Initially, one spot was just a bit too wide so I re-spiked it but nada.

Put a straight edge along the center of the ties and there's a bump there.

This is where the laminated roadbed meets the flat plywood.

Under the layout, I lowered two supporting arms about an 1/8", put glue between the supporting arms and sub-roadbed and put some weight on the track to hold it in place while the glue drys. 

The layout was started in 1979 so I'm not sure how long that spot has been bad.

With the mainline down until tomorrow morning, looks like road testing the EM-1 will be delayed.

Supporting arms. 

Had to remove the old straight screw driver screws and replace them with square head ones.  Those old screws were a pain (literally) : I remember jamming my finger with the screw driver when it slipped off the end. 

All the old newspapers are under the plaster when I used 'zip texturing'.  

Pretty good ice storm hit this morning.

I can usually walk under those limbs that are touching the ground.  

New delivery.

Suitcase connectors.  Actually, these are more like 'button' connectors.

Made by 3M UY connector 22-26 gauge. 100 for $15.45 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=n...+connector+22-26+awg   

Non soldering so will be good for decoders and around other sensitive electronic parts.

Interesting occurrence on the B&O EM-1 decoder.

It started to send out parts of verbal commands and other 'sounds' when chuffing sounds occurred while running the engine.

Initially, thought the decoder may have been shorted out but, decided to reset the decoder and all's good again.

Road bed all better.

The hump is gone and no derailment on the EM-1.

Routing to the interchange/staging tracks.

Insulation paint for PRR S-1 tender.

Picked up some nail polish at Krogers which should make a good insulator paint.

While at HD, I was picking up some electrical tape and noticed these identical 'suitcase' connectors a few feet away from the tape.  I'm guessing they get them from 3M.

Two coats of nail polish on the insulated side of the wheels.  Let that dry and see if that fixes the shorts when going through my turnouts.