Skip to main content

"HONGZ" stands for HO scale, N scale, G scale, and Z scale.

Post your non-O scale stuff here!

Stuff:

Found an old lumber yard kit in a box that I built back was I was a lot younger.

Put it on the interchange track area.  Not any 'master piece' but it reminds me of 'a long time ago'.

I don't even remember who made the kit.

GNRR284

Illusions of grandeur!

I purchased more scalecoat paint and thought I'd get my engines painted this fall.

With 21 steam and 17 passenger that need painting, it's going to take awhile   

paint 01

Attachments

Images (2)
  • GNRR284
  • paint 01
Last edited by samparfitt

Marker/head light drilling.

T&P texan.

#55 drill bit for the marker lights and, after drilling out the headlight, enlarged with a #50 drill bit.  Sometimes, the micro LED's have to be angled to get them into the #55 hole and, since the headlight is a lot larger, the hole is enlarged.  (see last picture for order numbers from home depot)

There was a lot of 'plumbing' going to the smoke box front (ie feed water heater) that some soldering had to be undone to remove the smoke box front from the boiler. 

lights for models T&P 01lights for models T&P 02lights for models T&P 03

 

SF 4-8-4 by United.

The marker lights were very sturdy on the united model and powered drilling worked well.  Depending on location of marker lights, holes for routing the led lights are drilled into the boiler or smoke box front to make it easier for assembly.

This engine had no back head so one was soldered in at 3 contact points with the boiler: center and two sides (no need to solder the entire contact surface).  Only a couple notches were needed at the base corners of the back head to get it to fit in the boiler. 

lights for models SF united 01lights for models SF united 02lights for models SF united 03

SF 4-8-4 by key.

The learning curve is improving doing all the marker lights at once.  Depending on the location, most can be held by some needle nose pliers to keep them from twisting off of the boiler mounts but some need to be removed, held in pliers and then re-soldered. 

lights for models SF key 01lights for models SF key 02

SF 2-10-10-2.

Liked to have put a back head in but the motor sits in the cab and the way the drive universals are set up, the motor has to stay in the cab.

Quick drilling this model as there are no marker lights (early steam era), just head light on engine and tender.

lights for models SF westside 01lights for models SF westside 02

drill bits:

lights for models drill bits 01

Attachments

Images (11)
  • lights for models T&P 01
  • lights for models T&P 02
  • lights for models T&P 03
  • lights for models SF united 01
  • lights for models SF united 02
  • lights for models SF united 03
  • lights for models SF key 01
  • lights for models SF key 02
  • lights for models SF westside 01
  • lights for models SF westside 02
  • lights for models drill bits 01
Last edited by samparfitt

Marker lights (cont)

For these engines I had to remove the marker lights to be able to drill them out.

Burlington O-5B 4-8-4.  No lights on the tender.

lights for models burlington OL 01

Burlington O-5 4-8-4.

Butchered the marker lights so had to replace with identical cal scale.

lights for models burlington OM 01lights for models burlington OM 02

Milwaukee S-3 4-8-4.

lights for models milwaukee OM 01

D&RGW M-68 4-8-4.

Lucked out on this one.  The marker lights are an unusual shape (cylinder) but they were made already drilled out (that's a rarity).

No tender light.

lights for models D&RGW key 01

Attachments

Images (5)
  • lights for models burlington OL 01
  • lights for models burlington OM 01
  • lights for models burlington OM 02
  • lights for models milwaukee OM 01
  • lights for models D&RGW key 01

Marker lights (production line drilling) cont.

Sunset NYC Hudson.

This is the first engine where the smoke box front didn't come off as it was lightly soldered on.  The front's usually have some brass sheet stock curved and soldered to the back of the front's and snugly fit into the boiler.  Some brass sheet stock was soldered to the back of the smoke box front and a V bend put into the brass to snugly fit into the boiler.   With no name as who made it, I'm guessing that this is an early model by sunset.

lights for models NYC hudson sunset 01lights for models NYC hudson sunset 02

N&W J and auxiliary tender.

The marker lights had to be removed to drill them out.  They are tear drop shape.  I butchered one of them and, since no one makes marker lights in this shape, I filled the hole with solder and re-drilled it.

The smoke box front had some extra brass stock to hold it to the boiler but was too loose so it got the same 'treatment' as the Hudson.

lights for models N&W J sunset 01lights for models N&W J sunset 02lights for models N&W auxilary tender 01

Something different.

Another set of lights are going to be added along and under the running boards by the front of the drivers to help the engineer see where he is oiling.

lights for models GN S-1 westside 01

 

Attachments

Images (6)
  • lights for models NYC hudson sunset 01
  • lights for models NYC hudson sunset 02
  • lights for models N&W J sunset 01
  • lights for models N&W J sunset 02
  • lights for models N&W auxilary tender 01
  • lights for models GN S-1 westside 01
Last edited by samparfitt

Marker lights prep (cont)

Finished up with the logging engines.  Much easier as there are no marker lights, just head lights on the engine and tender.

lights for models logging engines 01

The 2-6-6-2 needed the pilot re-soldered.

lights for models logging engines 02

I made an error on the drill bit sizes: they are 50 and 55's:  55's for the marker lights, 50's for the headlights which I ordered from home depot.  One would think that, drilling into brass, one bit will last a life time: not true.  When using a dremel, it's easy to over heat the bit, which dulls it.  It's best to set the dremel on a pretty low setting.  Like all metals: drilling is best done with cutting oil and low revolutions.

lights for models drill bits 01

 

 

Attachments

Images (3)
  • lights for models logging engines 01
  • lights for models logging engines 02
  • lights for models drill bits 01
Last edited by samparfitt

Dayton NMRA train show pictures.

Was hosted in a mall in a vacant JC Penny's store.

Layouts included: N, HO, S, 3 rail, G and leggos.

One of the HO layouts was a huge U shaped set up.

dayton show 2017 01dayton show 2017 02dayton show 2017 03dayton show 2017 04dayton show 2017 05dayton show 2017 06dayton show 2017 07dayton show 2017 08dayton show 2017 09dayton show 2017 10dayton show 2017 11

Only thing I bought was more micro lights: white, red and green.

lights for models 09

Delivered:

200 painted people, standing and sitting, from China for the passenger cars. 

people passengers 01

Attachments

Images (13)
  • dayton show 2017 01
  • dayton show 2017 02
  • dayton show 2017 03
  • dayton show 2017 04
  • dayton show 2017 05
  • dayton show 2017 06
  • dayton show 2017 07
  • dayton show 2017 08
  • dayton show 2017 09
  • dayton show 2017 10
  • dayton show 2017 11
  • lights for models 09
  • people passengers 01

New arrival:

NYC Mohawk, 4-8-2 by Key.

This completes the three engines of NYC that I was interested in putting on the roster (along with the Hudson and Niagara). 

I was the only bidder on the engine and it went for what it was sold for in 1977 (250).

The description said the motor ran but the drivers didn't so I guess that scared others from bidding.  I had to add two new screws to hold the 'elephant ears' on the running boards and the water injector was broken off but in the plastic bag.

Just basic backhead detail: being from Samhongsa, they are usually very detailed but I guess he only puts in what the importer wants.  Being Key, the engines are usually pretty detailed. 

A can motor provides the power. 

This completes what I consider a good representation of NYC steam.

NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 01NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 02NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 03NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 04NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 05NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 06NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 07NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 08NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 09

Attachments

Images (9)
  • NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 01
  • NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 02
  • NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 03
  • NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 04
  • NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 05
  • NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 06
  • NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 07
  • NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 08
  • NYC 4-8-2 mohawk Key 09
Last edited by samparfitt

NMRA Div 7/3 meeting.

Yesterday two of our divisions had a group meeting (Cincinnati/Dayton, Ohio) and, as usual, we visit layouts after the meeting.

Bob Lawson's layout.  This has to be one of the best, private detailed layout in the country.  Bob's a true artist when it comes to creating scenes with buildings and people.

Here's a quick video of the layout that I took, last year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...;feature=em-comments   

 

boblawson layout 01boblawson layout 02boblawson layout 03boblawson layout 04boblawson layout 05boblawson layout 06boblawson layout 07boblawson layout 08boblawson layout 09boblawson layout 10boblawson layout 11boblawson layout 12boblawson layout 13boblawson layout 14boblawson layout 15boblawson layout 16boblawson layout 17boblawson layout 18boblawson layout 19boblawson layout 20

Attachments

Images (20)
  • boblawson layout 01
  • boblawson layout 02
  • boblawson layout 03
  • boblawson layout 04
  • boblawson layout 05
  • boblawson layout 06
  • boblawson layout 07
  • boblawson layout 08
  • boblawson layout 09
  • boblawson layout 10
  • boblawson layout 11
  • boblawson layout 12
  • boblawson layout 13
  • boblawson layout 14
  • boblawson layout 15
  • boblawson layout 16
  • boblawson layout 17
  • boblawson layout 18
  • boblawson layout 19
  • boblawson layout 20

B&O EM-1 improvements.

The engine ran fine when testing it in the yard but was shorting out on the mainline. 

Fortunately, I noticed some sparks coming from the tender wheels. Had to add some kadee insulation washers to each side of one axle to prevent the insulated wheel from contacting the truck frame.

B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 westside 12

The back engine drivers were also not making contact with the track along all the drivers so:

1) added some RC airplane fuel tubing between the front drivers where they connect to the boiler.

The original spring was too weak.

B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 westside 13

2) plus, a shim was added where the front drivers sprung plunger makes contact with the front driver 'plate'.

B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 westside 14

All's better, now!

In the future, plan to strip it and add lighting and re-paint.

B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 westside 15

Attachments

Images (4)
  • B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 westside 12
  • B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 westside 13
  • B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 westside 14
  • B&O EM-1 2-8-8-4 westside 15
Last edited by samparfitt

Found another GN fan.

While visiting my son in Michigan, visited Scott's GN layout. 

A very nice, well done layout with lots of homemade trees and scratch built buildings from GN plans/pictures including nice catenary.

The snow scenes use ground up marble.

Did his own impressive back drop painting.

video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYhX1VK_8uc

Scott GN layout 01Scott GN layout 02Scott GN layout 03Scott GN layout 04Scott GN layout 05Scott GN layout 06Scott GN layout 07Scott GN layout 08Scott GN layout 09Scott GN layout 10Scott GN layout 11Scott GN layout 12Scott GN layout 13Scott GN layout 14Scott GN layout 15Scott GN layout 16Scott GN layout 17Scott GN layout 18Scott GN layout 19

Attachments

Images (19)
  • Scott GN layout 01
  • Scott GN layout 02
  • Scott GN layout 03
  • Scott GN layout 04
  • Scott GN layout 05
  • Scott GN layout 06
  • Scott GN layout 07
  • Scott GN layout 08
  • Scott GN layout 09
  • Scott GN layout 10
  • Scott GN layout 11
  • Scott GN layout 12
  • Scott GN layout 13
  • Scott GN layout 14
  • Scott GN layout 15
  • Scott GN layout 16
  • Scott GN layout 17
  • Scott GN layout 18
  • Scott GN layout 19
Last edited by samparfitt

New arrival:

Got some even smaller LED's from China.

The one's that I've been using are 0604's or 1.8MM X 3MM.

The new ones are 0402's.

I got white, red and green.

There are 5 per pack and they have resistors already installed.

Totals: 50 white, 20 green and 10 red.

As seen in the pictures, they are very small (left is the 0604 and right is the 0402).

LED 0402 size 01LED 0402 size 02

 

==============

I got the bug to work on the passenger cars.

The trucks on the oriental limited cars have average to bad rolling characteristics.

The bulk of them have 'flat ended'  axles versus a needle point version.  I used a pointed dremel grinder to removed some of the bulk in the 'journals' so less friction.  I also added some light oil which also helped them move more freely.

A few trucks had to have the brake shoes ground down as they were touching the wheels. 

One set of trucks had pointed axle ends so I used a beveled pointed devise with two cutting edges to insure the journals were smooth.

I had several old central valley 6 wheel trucks that are very free rolling and put those on some of the cars. 

Intermountain has some ball bearing axles at 20 bucks per 6 so they aren't cheap but probably would help.

gn heavy weight trucks 01gn heavy weight trucks 02

 

Illusions of grandeur!

I thought I could pull 18 cars but had to double head with an R-2 2-8-8-2 and a S-1 4-8-4 and that was on a level grade coming out of the yard.  I'm going to have to run 9-12 cars are the most.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

Attachments

Images (4)
  • LED 0402 size 01
  • LED 0402 size 02
  • gn heavy weight trucks 01
  • gn heavy weight trucks 02

Finished up the last heavy weight passenger car.

This diner was partially painted and 'updated' with extra piping on the bottom frame of the car.  Some air hoses were, previously, soldered on and acid resin must of been used as the kadee coupler screws were rusted into the frame.  Those were ground off and a new hole was drilled and tapped for a center screw for the kadees. 

New bolsters were added as those were missing.  They were drilled and tapped to  the frame. 

GN heavy weight diner, #1030-1051 OL 04

Along with eight walthers heavy weight cars, two heavy weight passenger sets were made: one with 12 cars and one with 14 cars.  With 4 light plastic cars in each set, the 0-8-0 could move one set with no trouble and the other with some 'assistance' so they should be a good size for an R-2 to pull them.

There is also one set of modern passenger cars (far left 3 tracks).  Hadn't planned on much passenger traffic and should have put in additional tracks for it in Seattle and there are no facilities in the St. Paul yard.  The 'staging'/interchange track runs off the mainline just before St. Paul's yard so passenger trains can go there.

GN heavy weight sets 01

Attachments

Images (2)
  • GN heavy weight diner, #1030-1051 OL 04
  • GN heavy weight sets 01

GN R-2 2-8-8-2 front driver update.

When trying to pull the heavy weight cars, the universal that I fixed with some RC tubing was too flexible and allowed the universal to separate.

Under stress, the front gear box moves which allows the universal to separate.

Some thin, brass sheet stock was cut to secure the gear box via the engine frame.

The sheet stock keeps the gear box from moving.

All's working again.

GN R-2 2-8-8-2 05GN R-2 2-8-8-2 06GN R-2 2-8-8-2 07

Attachments

Images (3)
  • GN R-2 2-8-8-2 05
  • GN R-2 2-8-8-2 06
  • GN R-2 2-8-8-2 07

New circuitry for the new 0402 LED's.

As mentioned, previously, these new LED's are extremely small.

Picture shows them: 0402 LED left in picture and 0604 right.

We're talking about 1/64" wide by 1/32" long!

I got white, green and red from this supplier:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8V-12...p2057872.m2749.l2649   

They come 5 per package for about $6.70 (counting shipping) and they come pre-wired and have a resistor added.

The pro is they are cheap but a circuit needs to be made (see below) whereas the lights4models are 'ready to go' with all needed circuitry at $15.50 per 5 pack plus shipping.

https://lights4models.com/         

If you don't need many then I'd go with the lights4models but I needed about 70 white, 20 green and 15 red.

These 0402's will fit into the marker lights a lot easier plus I want to light up some number boards.

LED 0402 size 03

Circuitry:

It's been since the mid 60's since I got a minor in physics but here's what I came up with. 

I run the circuitry parallel to the motor.

I put 19 volts as input, output is about 9 volts with the 1.5K resistor for white and green and about 11 volts for the 1k resistor for the red LED.  At 19 volts this should also work for DCC.   As mentioned, I don't claim to be an electronic's wiz and there maybe an easier way to set this up.

NOTE: For DCC, I have been informed that all that is needed for LED's is a 1.8K resistor.

With the provided resistor in the shipped LED's, voltage range is only 8-12 so I had to get it down to that level.

If I remember right, the capacitor evens out the voltage flow and prevents 'spikes' which could damage the LED's.

I bought a bunch of bridge rectifiers from digikey (bottom of list in picture).

LED 0402 size 05

I used a .47 ohm capacitor to bridge the +/- side (DC) and on the AC side, I put a 1K resistor for the red LED and a 1.5K resistor for the white or green LED.  Simple to make (just use a small soldering iron and do it quickly).

LED 0402 size 04

I didn't try 2 red LED's but one works on the circuitry.

A white and green was able to run on the 'W/G(white or green) circuitry.

The red LED needs more 'juice' so that's why I used a lower rated resistor.

The 0402 LED's have a little thicker wires which I'm hoping will help on insulating them while pulling the wires through brass holes as the lights4models have lacquer covered wires and one must be careful not to short them out against the brass boilers as it's easy to scrape the lacquer off the wires.

LED 0402 size 06LED 0402 size 07

Attachments

Images (5)
  • LED 0402 size 03
  • LED 0402 size 05
  • LED 0402 size 04
  • LED 0402 size 06
  • LED 0402 size 07
Last edited by samparfitt

Layout visit.

Went to a fellow NMRA's O gauge layout in my area.

He grew up in Greenville, Ohio and models the 3 railroads that came through town: NYC, PRR and B&O.

He makes all his turnouts and crossings and uses atlas track for the rest of the layout.  Most of the buildings are scratch or kit bashed.  Mainline curves are super elevated.

A multi-level layout with something I haven't seen: each level is independent of each other.

Three turntables are all scratch built.

His shop has tons of boxes but they are all parts and not kits (for the most part).

Those passenger cars on the work bench have multiple pieces all glued together.

He's working on battery powered engines with RC type throttles so no power is need in the track.

rongribler's layout 01rongribler's layout 02rongribler's layout 03rongribler's layout 04rongribler's layout 05rongribler's layout 06rongribler's layout 07rongribler's layout 08rongribler's layout 09rongribler's layout 10rongribler's layout 11rongribler's layout 12rongribler's layout 13rongribler's layout 14rongribler's layout 15rongribler's layout 16rongribler's layout 17

Something different:

A pivoting bridge as an escape track for the engines.

rongribler's layout 18

Attachments

Images (18)
  • rongribler's layout 01
  • rongribler's layout 02
  • rongribler's layout 03
  • rongribler's layout 04
  • rongribler's layout 05
  • rongribler's layout 06
  • rongribler's layout 07
  • rongribler's layout 08
  • rongribler's layout 09
  • rongribler's layout 10
  • rongribler's layout 11
  • rongribler's layout 12
  • rongribler's layout 13
  • rongribler's layout 14
  • rongribler's layout 15
  • rongribler's layout 16
  • rongribler's layout 17
  • rongribler's layout 18
Last edited by samparfitt

GN S-2  4-8-4

Number boards.

The original boards were cut off and the hollowed out ones from PSC were soldered on via resistance soldering.

Before:

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 28

The package had some small brackets but the S-2 were sturdier (drilled with pins) so I cut off the old boards and soldered the new boards to the existing bracket.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 29

After:

I also cut a hole in the back of the board before soldering.  I wanted the hole in the bottom of the board but no room with the bracket.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 30

A hole was drilled next to the hand rail stanchion were the wires will pass as on the prototype.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 31

Both sides done.

I used an xacto knife to clean up any leftover solder and a brass brush to remove debris.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 32

Painting.

Used soapy water and vinegar to clean up all the parts, air compressor dry and then put into toaster oven for final drying out.

Wheels taped as well as all electrical contact points, ie: journals, etc.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 33

Wheels, since they have insulation, are air dried.  Left the brake shoes on as there is a plastic tube on the screws so that will also be air dried.

Truck wheels will be hand painted.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 34

Drivers and trailing trucks will be taped and air brushed.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 35

Mechanical parts:

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 36

Painted with scale coat #10 black.

Since the engine will be painted glacier park, the sand/pressure dome were removed for painting.

Paint thinned about 50/50 which makes it pretty thin.

Put into toaster over for 2 hours at 200 degrees: again, air dry of all wheels.

Since this is my first time with lighted number boards, I'm going to finish this model up, first,

before doing any other engines with number boards to insure everything goes 'according to Hoyle'!

The marker lights on the engine and tender will also be lighted, along with cab light and,

something else new, glowing firebox and lights over the drivers.

 

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 37GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 38GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 39

Attachments

Images (12)
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 28
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 29
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 30
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 31
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 32
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 33
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 34
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 35
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 36
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 37
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 38
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 39
Last edited by samparfitt

Doing two other engines that don't have number boards.

Except for red cab roofs and silver smoke boxes/fire boxes, these engines are a lot quicker than the multi-colored GN S-2.

Burlington O-5B and O-5 4-8-4's.

Drilled holes in back head for light and also one on each side of boiler for driver lights.

All the engines were, previously, had the headlights and marker lights drilled out on the engine and tender.

Oriental Limited O-5B;

Usual steps of cleaning and masking before painting.

Burlington O-5B 4-8-4 OL 19

In the toaster oven for 2 hours.

Burlington O-5B 4-8-4 OL 20

Overland O-5:

The Overland O-5 had a few parts that needed re-soldering.

One tender step was loose and a water injector (?) was in the box and goes under the cab.

Burlington O-5 4-8-4 overland 23

The tender brass stock used to hold the under carriage came loose and one hand rail on the front steps also needed soldering.

Burlington O-5 4-8-4 overland 24

Presently, the GN S-2 and Burlington O-5B have two coats of black and the O-5 is 'cooking' in the oven.

Attachments

Images (4)
  • Burlington O-5 4-8-4 overland 23
  • Burlington O-5 4-8-4 overland 24
  • Burlington O-5B 4-8-4 OL 19
  • Burlington O-5B 4-8-4 OL 20
Last edited by samparfitt

You sure a master repair guy! I wish I lived close to you I would bring over an engine my Son-in-law and grandson found in the trash. Still haven't got around to fixing it and its been sitting on my shelf for about a year. I played a little trying to fix it but no luck yet! Keep up the great work and I will keep watching!

GN S-2:

Painting (cont)

The hard part:

masking.  Fortunately, the two domes were removable.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 40

The easy part: painting.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 41

The masking is immediately removed after tool cleanup.

Another 2 hours in the oven.

I would recommend a dedicated toaster oven (assuming they still make them!) over using

the kitchen oven for better control of heat as one doesn't want others turning up the oven

not knowing there is (was) an engine in there, plus paint gives off odors.

GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 42

Attachments

Images (3)
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 40
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 41
  • GN S-2 4-8-4 westside 42
Last edited by samparfitt

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×