Ideas for a more realistic bell cord

I am going to guess the cord is made of music wire to help resist getting bent from handling. You can replace it with brass wire and then bend it to what you think is more prototypical. You just have to be more careful when you pick it up. Or you could just use thread.

Pete

I would use small diameter phosphor bronze wire. You can get it as small as .008".  Use needle nose pliers to bend it to the prototypical sag. Once bent it will not distort during routine handling. Or even mildly abusive handling

@ByronB posted:

p.s.. I love seeing and hearing the engine run, but there is one thing about the crew talk that kind of irrationally bothers me. They keep saying “over and out” to end the radio dialog. That’s not radio protocol, and it just bugs me! 😀

This comment cracks me up. I'm not a major fan of it either. I gotta admit though, it has become a little bit endearing for me.

Anyway, I'm leaning toward the wire. I feel like a thread is going to be heavy enough to hang right.

Thanks all. Looks like the wire is the leading suggestion here. The phosphor bronze wire is likely the best choice if it will stand up to some handling.

I would think the right kind of thread might hang better than most any wire.

Try a trip to Michael's, AC Moore or a similar kind of store. They have a jewelry section where they sell different kinds of "cord" in all different colors and gauges from thin to thick. I'm guessing you would find one that's just right. 

I like the idea of the cord as it would hang more naturally. Handling and durability would be a concern.

I think I’ll look into both options and fiddle around a bit and let you all know the results.

PRB      John

@rattler21 posted:

The post would be more useful if you specified what material you used...

John,  That is how it came from the factory.  John

You could try EZ-line, which is elastic. Might hold up better than just a piece of string.   How much of a concern is "durability" with this thing? I kinda feel like if you're going to go through the effort to detail it up, you'll also have the sense to not handle it like a football.

@rattler21 posted:

John,  That is how it came from the factory.  John

They did a nice job on that one, is that some kind of thread or wire?

BTW, don't portray too much slack in the bell cord.  I doubt the engineer...or fireman... would like to pull 4' of bell cord slack before getting a good 'ding-dong' going!  With everything else he's focused on it's no wonder that the cord eventually gave way to a small bell-mounted air cylinder for actuation.

Rich and/or Jack probably have a better perspective on the whole topic.

Follow up….after a month delay due to work commitments.

Bottom line: “Soft Flex” brand beading wire in .014” onyx black worked perfectly!

Long story: Lionel “bell cords” are .014” smooth wire, and they fit nicely through the guide pins and holes without much room to spare. I was surprised and happy to find the above beading wire that a couple users suggested, and conveniently it is same diameter. It also has a nice subtle texture caused by the wire braid that is covered in nylon. I paid less than $10 for a 30-ft spool. It took me all of 15 minutes to thread the wire and secure it. I knotted the cab end and tied a knot on the bell end. I secured the bell knot with a tiny dab of super glue on the wire. I left about an inch of excess wire in the cab. That way, when handling the loco if I press on the cord there is some slack, and it is easily taken up by pushing back into the cab. I think it looks perfect. It has some texture reminiscent of tar covered rope, has a slight drape, but is also taut enough to hold shape and not tug on the bell.

Highly recommended solution!

@ByronB posted:

Follow up….after a month delay due to work commitments.

Bottom line: “Soft Flex” brand beading wire in .014” onyx black worked perfectly!

Long story: Lionel “bell cords” are .014” smooth wire, and they fit nicely through the guide pins and holes without much room to spare. I was surprised and happy to find the above beading wire that a couple users suggested, and conveniently it is same diameter. It also has a nice subtle texture caused by the wire braid that is covered in nylon. I paid less than $10 for a 30-ft spool. It took me all of 15 minutes to thread the wire and secure it. I knotted the cab end and tied a knot on the bell end. I secured the bell knot with a tiny dab of super glue on the wire. I left about an inch of excess wire in the cab. That way, when handling the loco if I press on the cord there is some slack, and it is easily taken up by pushing back into the cab. I think it looks perfect. It has some texture reminiscent of tar covered rope, has a slight drape, but is also taut enough to hold shape and not tug on the bell.

Highly recommended solution!

Love it!….so where does one purchase said wire!….thanx for the update!

Pat

Amazon carries it, as does pretty much every beading supply company on the internet. I bought mine from a guy on Etsy.

I should have noted that it is flexible enough to make a tight knot, but stiff enough not to hang with any slack over the few inches between guides on the engine; just a very subtle drape suggesting a line, not a pipe.

@dkdkrd posted:

BTW, don't portray too much slack in the bell cord.  I doubt the engineer...or fireman... would like to pull 4' of bell cord slack before getting a good 'ding-dong' going!  With everything else he's focused on it's no wonder that the cord eventually gave way to a small bell-mounted air cylinder for actuation.

Rich and/or Jack probably have a better perspective on the whole topic.

There' a fair amount of slack, as illustrated by IRM's 1630:

It's a simple matter to take up the slack in the cab.  I never exerted much effort when ringing the bell manually.  Yes, as a fireman you still need the cord occasionally, even with an air ringer.  The engineer operated the air ringer.

Rusty